|95m, 3 pitches. A kilometre south of the Lyngvær caravan camp is a huge cliff with two steep reddish walls. Above the lower one and to the right of the upper one is a grey slab forming the arete of the cliff. Aim for this by scrambling round to the left of the lower cliff then up the right-trending ramp that runs under the base of the upper cliff. Start at the top of the ram under the grey slab - 20 minutes.
1) 5-, 15m. Climb the marked crack-line heading leftward to a belay on a good ledge, trickier than it looks.
2) 6+, 35m. Climb the good crack by sustained jamming with moves rightwards at half-height and the crux near the top. Good well protected climbing (big cams) but rather mossy in places.
3) 6+, 45m. Take the easiest way to the top by moving round to the left of the arete or more difficult, follow the short steep crack on the right (5m).
Descent - Go over the top of the buttress then head down to the right via an unlikely looking grass ledge at the start which leads back round to the base of the route and the top of the approach ramp. © ROCKFAX|
FA. Gustaf Leijonhovud, Jens Åstrøm, Nils J. Vagner 3.8.2003 03/Aug/2003