UKC

Rockfax Description
Another excellent semi-bolted route, with exposed challenging climbing throughout. Like many of Da Pozzo's creations, distances between bolts can be long but protection is (usually)there when you need it. Pitches 7-9 are protected with pegs, and pitches 10 and 11 follow the final two pitches of the Southeast Arete.
Start at the far right of the arete, by a ramp leading right, just below an overhang on the left.
1) 3, 55m. 2) 6b, 50m. 3) 6c, 50m. 4) 6a, 45m. 5) 6a+, 45m.
6) 6b, 55m. 7) 6a, 55m. 8) 6a, 50m. 9) 5, 50m.
10-11) IV+, 90m. As for Southeast Arete. © Rockfax

FA. Da Pozzo, Menaghin 2004 15/Jun/2004.

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Cuthbert 6 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Another route/face which Rockfax have clearly been nowhere near. The Tofana is a huge complicated massif which the guide doesn’t come even close to doing justice. It’s actually very difficult to pick out the routes (especially on my misty day), and there are no obvious route names or markings at the base. (This one fortunately has a metal plate and some cutoff old tatt to steer by…)The approach is also 40 not 20mins. Best option is slog up the multiple zigzags until a sign ‘sentiero attrezato astaloi’ is visible on the right and then take a beeline left to an old style green telegraph pole in the middle of the slope. This trail will bring you directly to the base of the route. As for the climbing, not a good one to chose to rope solo trusting Rockfax that the route is ‘excellent’ and ‘semi-bolted’. This is essentially a trad route with the odd bolt. Hats off to those who have completed it. It’s a proper challenge (2 bolts and a thread in pitch 2, for example), and as others have noted, the line is far from obvious. A good route to escape though. Belays well equipped.
Show beta
βeta: Another route/face which Rockfax have clearly been nowhere near. The Tofana is a huge complicated massif which the guide doesn’t come even close to doing justice. It’s actually very difficult to pick out the routes (especially on my misty day), and there are no obvious route names or markings at the base. (This one fortunately has a metal plate and some cutoff old tatt to steer by…)The approach is also 40 not 20mins. Best option is slog up the multiple zigzags until a sign ‘sentiero attrezato astaloi’ is visible on the right and then take a beeline left to an old style green telegraph pole in the middle of the slope. This trail will bring you directly to the base of the route. As for the climbing, not a good one to chose to rope solo trusting Rockfax that the route is ‘excellent’ and ‘semi-bolted’. This is essentially a trad route with the odd bolt. Hats off to those who have completed it. It’s a proper challenge (2 bolts and a thread in pitch 2, for example), and as others have noted, the line is far from obvious. A good route to escape though. Belays well equipped.

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Guidebooks for Tofana di Rozes

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Spigolo Sam

Grade: 6c ***
(Tofana di Rozes)

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