Raeburns Arete** S
[jeff ready to assend, 3 kb]230m, 6 pitches. An excellent route which provides a fun way to arrive at the First Platform.
Harold Raeburn & Mr C.I.C 30/Jun/1902

Ticklists: Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes.

Photo: jeff ready to assend © GD1234
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This climb is in 90 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Good clean climbing, stayed on the crest the whole way, technically easy I would say for Severe but gear is thin in places. We hoped to finish up NEB but the gale at the 1st platform put us off. Got knocked off our feet on the screes on the way down so right decision?
QuicNic - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/15

Did with NE Buttress and descent down Ledge Route. A good climb.
Steve Perry - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/15 with Dan Bailey

Combined with NE Buttress
petecurt - AltLd β - 22/Aug/15

In boots. Dry at start, but rain halfway through made things interesting! Great route. Took much longer than expected however.
petecurt - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/15

Seemed a bit dirty to me and not that well protected! Had some vicious squalls come through though, summer in Scotland eh?
fall-line - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Tom Cowton, Damon Davies

damondavies - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15

muzz44 - Lead O/S - Sep/14 with Ryan

SUColdo - Lead - 25/Jul/14

Fantastic route on fantastic day of warm, sunny weather. Saw no other climbers all day ! Did 1939 variation (?) as partner had done route before.
Nemo9 - AltLd - 21/Jul/14 with Jim

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/14

Led p1 then alt leads. Big boots for me all the way. Felt trickier than S4A, perhaps would be better in rockshoes. Took much longer than I thought it would. Starting and ending in Edinburgh is a big day. Big kudos to Janey for leading the overhanging fingercrack section with rubbish/no gear near by.
sneaks - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with cathy, janey

Freezing cold and drizzling when we started so the first couple of pitches were not especially enjoyable! For an "arÍte" I thought the line was a bit indistinct and the best positions were on the final (moderate) pitch. Combining this with NEB on a nice day would be brilliant though!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Debbie Lee

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/14

skirton - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Sean Henderson

Good route, bit of route finding, didn't understand the traverse 6m bit, just went straight up which seemed about right.
seanhendo123 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Sarah

simondunf - Solo - Jun/14

nick ferro - 24/May/14 with Oli Birkill, toolboxtim

Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/14

Started wrong then traversed onto the right route.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Tom e

The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with robert taylor

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/13

matthew885 - Lead - 2013

slippery and very cold. Should have done it a few weeks earlier...
Stephi - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with OwenF

mot1 - AltLd - 22/Sep/12

Cold and a bit damp. Nice climb but was quite slow climbing as a 3, still enjoyable though. Walked off at the first platform. Will have to come back to do the buttress another day.
Andy Hewison - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Neale

Nice climb but a bit cold. Didn't have time to finish up NE Buttress as took longer than we thought
OwenF - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Stephi

Even numbered pitches. Nice route but a bit damp
oliverk - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Eddie

Abbed off from top of pitch 2 due to heavy rain
oliverk - AltLd dnf - 18/Aug/12 with Eddie

Sally Hudson - 2nd - 03/Jun/12 with Connor Holdsworth

Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Mary Leese

maryleese - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Liam Ingram

nich0las - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Janis

Alor_lab - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Stephen Barrass

Alastair MacSween - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with Graham Hunter

mhowie - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Nathan

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - 2011

thebat - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Ontour

Mark Bull - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Gillian

With Rob G. Full thermals & winter waterproofs against the gale - coldest day this summer. What amazing rock. Plenty route choice up parallel grooves and slabs - 'crest' is best. P2 bold with a crux, P3 (mine) slightly bold, P4 a crack crux up narrowest part of 'arete'. P5 (after our first 8m) Diff at most, P6 a Mod scramble.
nick everett - AltLd - 29/Aug/10

Nice climbing, better quality than the rest of NE Butress we thought. I don't get the bit that says to go 8m right...we just stuck to the arete as closely as possible, which was about Severe anyway.
iceicebaby - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Sam Wood

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10

Captain Solo - Solo - 13/Jul/10

Lovely clean rock, a brilliant route. (Never quite found the bit where it said go 6m right?)
Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Fiona

Absolutely lovely easy climbing on super grippy rock. Probably best done in the afternoon so that you get some sun.
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Mike

abbeywall - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with K

pimpy - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Ash

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10

mikemartin - AltLd - 12/Jun/10

ill_bill - AltLd - 10/Jun/10

prycey - AltLd β - 03/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09

Derek Graham - 2nd - 14/Sep/09

Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/09 with Reinhart

probably best done when it doesn't rain...
hubereini - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/09 with neil

Started snowing, about 4 pitches up had to ab back down on single rope on the second abseil rope wouldn't pull down had to prussick back up ropes. Eventually got off to the right(as you face) lowered tom off all the 60m rope bottom and then soloed/scrambled/jumped my way down. Was all very exciting probably only a minor epic as we were in our tent above the cic hut before 9 drinking duvel.
Ewan Russell - AltLd dnf - 05/Jun/09 with Tom Dewhurst

JLS - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Jacqui

punj - AltLd - 30/May/09 with john meechan

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/09

Simon Allcock - AltLd - Aug/08 with jonty

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Malcolm Airey

griggj - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/08 with tom sparkes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08

DavPk - AltLd - 07/Jun/08 with Stu Doig

A fine route - took a direct approach and followed the natural line up the crest of the ridge. The guide book says to traverse 6 meters to the right at one point but didn't feel that this was necessary and followed a more direct line. The route starts below and slightly right of a fairly prominent (but not very large) dark overhanging roof about 15 m up the face - the first pitch ascends up towards this then follows the natural crack line up and out to the right. The route finishes at a magnificent situation at the beginning of North East Buttress. This great route is unspoilt by technicalities or excessive gear. Some snow on easy ground at the very top but certainly not enough to warrant carrying an ice axe.
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 31/May/08 with Guy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/08

sparkoclimb - AltLd - May/08

alan wilson - 2007

Did in boots, marvelous!
calumalien - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/06 with Robby Boy

NickBrown - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Tim

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 01/Jul/06 with Dave S

Also didn't traverse right the direct approach was no harder than severe anyways.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

stuartm555 - 2nd - 24/Apr/05 with Seb Rider

joe king - Sep/04 with simon ringrose

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/04 with Dan Bailey

sebrider - Lead - Jul/04 with Stuart Marshall

Hidden - Apr/04

Felt bold for the grade. Amazing to think of first ascensionists gear (or lack of)
nickdonohue - AltLd - Aug/03 with Mark McCarthy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/03

Fn great day out on the Ben
220bpm - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/03 with Snowboarder

snowboarder - AltLd - 15/Jun/03 with Mark

Hidden - 2000

IanMcC - AltLd - 20/Jun/96 with Jimbo

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jun/96

Yourlead - Lead - 25/Sep/94 with Hugh Muchcamp

Climbed in a light mist which swirled around. Kept pace with another soloist on a route to my left(Newbigging's)
uphillnow - Solo - 1965

Seymore Butt - Jul/63

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Total votes cast 52
hard HS0 of 27
HS0 of 27
easy HS0 of 27
hard S2 of 27
S13 of 27
easy S12 of 27
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β