Good clean climbing, stayed on the crest the whole way, technically easy I would say for Severe but gear is thin in places. We hoped to finish up NEB but the gale at the 1st platform put us off. Got knocked off our feet on the screes on the way down so right decision?
QuicNic - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/15
Did with NE Buttress and descent down Ledge Route. A good climb.
Steve Perry - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/15 with Dan Bailey
Combined with NE Buttress
petecurt - AltLd β - 22/Aug/15
In boots. Dry at start, but rain halfway through made things interesting!
Great route. Took much longer than expected however.
petecurt - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/15
Seemed a bit dirty to me and not that well protected! Had some vicious squalls come through though, summer in Scotland eh?
fall-line - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Tom Cowton, Damon Davies
damondavies - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15
muzz44 - Lead O/S - Sep/14 with Ryan
SUColdo - Lead - 25/Jul/14
Fantastic route on fantastic day of warm, sunny weather. Saw no other climbers all day ! Did 1939 variation (?) as partner had done route before.
Nemo9 - AltLd - 21/Jul/14 with Jim
Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/14
Led p1 then alt leads. Big boots for me all the way. Felt trickier than S4A, perhaps would be better in rockshoes. Took much longer than I thought it would. Starting and ending in Edinburgh is a big day.
Big kudos to Janey for leading the overhanging fingercrack section with rubbish/no gear near by.
sneaks - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with cathy, janey
Freezing cold and drizzling when we started so the first couple of pitches were not especially enjoyable! For an "arÍte" I thought the line was a bit indistinct and the best positions were on the final (moderate) pitch. Combining this with NEB on a nice day would be brilliant though!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Debbie Lee
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/14
skirton - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Sean Henderson
Good route, bit of route finding, didn't understand the traverse 6m bit, just went straight up which seemed about right.
seanhendo123 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Sarah
simondunf - Solo - Jun/14
nick ferro - 24/May/14 with Oli Birkill, toolboxtim
Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/14
Started wrong then traversed onto the right route.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Tom e
The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with robert taylor
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/13
matthew885 - Lead - 2013
slippery and very cold. Should have done it a few weeks earlier...
Stephi - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with OwenF
mot1 - AltLd - 22/Sep/12
Cold and a bit damp. Nice climb but was quite slow climbing as a 3, still enjoyable though. Walked off at the first platform. Will have to come back to do the buttress another day.
Andy Hewison - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Neale
Nice climb but a bit cold. Didn't have time to finish up NE Buttress as took longer than we thought
OwenF - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Stephi
Even numbered pitches. Nice route but a bit damp
oliverk - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Eddie
Abbed off from top of pitch 2 due to heavy rain
oliverk - AltLd dnf - 18/Aug/12 with Eddie
Sally Hudson - 2nd - 03/Jun/12 with Connor Holdsworth
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Mary Leese
maryleese - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Liam Ingram
nich0las - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Janis
Alor_lab - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Stephen Barrass
Alastair MacSween - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with Graham Hunter
mhowie - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Nathan
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11
Hidden - 2011
thebat - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Ontour
Mark Bull - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Gillian
With Rob G. Full thermals & winter waterproofs against the gale - coldest day this summer. What amazing rock. Plenty route choice up parallel grooves and slabs - 'crest' is best. P2 bold with a crux, P3 (mine) slightly bold, P4 a crack crux up narrowest part of 'arete'. P5 (after our first 8m) Diff at most, P6 a Mod scramble.
nick everett - AltLd - 29/Aug/10
Nice climbing, better quality than the rest of NE Butress we thought. I don't get the bit that says to go 8m right...we just stuck to the arete as closely as possible, which was about Severe anyway.
iceicebaby - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Sam Wood
Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10
Captain Solo - Solo - 13/Jul/10
Lovely clean rock, a brilliant route.
(Never quite found the bit where it said go 6m right?)
Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Fiona
Absolutely lovely easy climbing on super grippy rock. Probably best done in the afternoon so that you get some sun.
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Mike
abbeywall - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with K
pimpy - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Ash
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10
mikemartin - AltLd - 12/Jun/10
ill_bill - AltLd - 10/Jun/10
prycey - AltLd β - 03/Jun/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09
Derek Graham - 2nd - 14/Sep/09
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/09 with Reinhart
probably best done when it doesn't rain...
hubereini - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/09 with neil
Started snowing, about 4 pitches up had to ab back down on single rope on the second abseil rope wouldn't pull down had to prussick back up ropes. Eventually got off to the right(as you face) lowered tom off all the 60m rope bottom and then soloed/scrambled/jumped my way down. Was all very exciting probably only a minor epic as we were in our tent above the cic hut before 9 drinking duvel.
Ewan Russell - AltLd dnf - 05/Jun/09 with Tom Dewhurst
JLS - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Jacqui
punj - AltLd - 30/May/09 with john meechan
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/09
Simon Allcock - AltLd - Aug/08 with jonty
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Malcolm Airey
griggj - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/08 with tom sparkes
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08
DavPk - AltLd - 07/Jun/08 with Stu Doig
A fine route - took a direct approach and followed the natural line up the crest of the ridge. The guide book says to traverse 6 meters to the right at one point but didn't feel that this was necessary and followed a more direct line.
The route starts below and slightly right of a fairly prominent (but not very large) dark overhanging roof about 15 m up the face - the first pitch ascends up towards this then follows the natural crack line up and out to the right. The route finishes at a magnificent situation at the beginning of North East Buttress.
This great route is unspoilt by technicalities or excessive gear.
Some snow on easy ground at the very top but certainly not enough to warrant carrying an ice axe.
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 31/May/08 with Guy
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/08
sparkoclimb - AltLd - May/08
alan wilson - 2007
Did in boots, marvelous!
calumalien - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/06 with Robby Boy
NickBrown - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Tim
Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 01/Jul/06 with Dave S
Also didn't traverse right the direct approach was no harder than severe anyways.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006
stuartm555 - 2nd - 24/Apr/05 with Seb Rider
joe king - Sep/04 with simon ringrose
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/04 with Dan Bailey
sebrider - Lead - Jul/04 with Stuart Marshall
Hidden - Apr/04
Felt bold for the grade. Amazing to think of first ascensionists gear (or lack of)
nickdonohue - AltLd - Aug/03 with Mark McCarthy
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/03
Fn great day out on the Ben
220bpm - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/03 with Snowboarder
snowboarder - AltLd - 15/Jun/03 with Mark
Hidden - 2000
IanMcC - AltLd - 20/Jun/96 with Jimbo
Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jun/96
Yourlead - Lead - 25/Sep/94 with Hugh Muchcamp
Climbed in a light mist which swirled around. Kept pace with another soloist on a route to my left(Newbigging's)
uphillnow - Solo - 1965
Seymore Butt - Jul/63