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Ticklists: Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland.


ClimberDateStyle
beds74 02/Oct AltLd

A fine, fine route. I led 2-3 as one, 5,6 split. Decided to sit it out in the tent the day before, as the weather was cold and cloudy so went to knock the two Munros off. Glad we waited as Sunday was marvellous high pressure stuff! Still very cold as climb was in the shade obviously all day, Mitre Ridge would have been better for temperature wise. If this is Severe then it's ridiculous! VS all day long, yes it was cold, greasy in places but pitch 3 was the crux not pitch 1 as guide book describes, and definitely VS. Finished by Bell's variation which incidentally we had 3 guide book descriptions and none of them make sense until your actually on the crest of the ridge between the 1st and 2nd towers...but for once Gary Latters description although doesn't say actually is describing pitches 5/6 which is the Bell's variation finish. Well worth doing, great exposure. Felt very Alps in the look/position and the finish on the ridge/rock weaving to summit, brill.

with Steve Gould
lcullum7 17/Sep AltLd O/S
SarahA 17/Sep AltLd

Bit boggy in places! Bell's variation was really cool!

Captain Solo 26/Aug Solo rpt

Finished just in time before the next shower, via Bell's variation

carr0t 29/Jun -

what an incredible route

Chubbs 29/May AltLd

Excellent route, probably worth waiting a few more weeks to let the snow melt. That is unless you like the most dangerous part of the route to be the walk in.

Merlin 29/May AltLd O/S

Lead p1, 4, 6. Exceptional climbing. Camped on the Col the night before after the hike in. Definitely recommend cycling rather than walking!

with Phil Chalkley
david_brookes 29/May AltLd
Ulgrid 29/May AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3 and 6. An utterly amaxing climb and well worth the cycle/hike in. Still some snow to cross to get to the bottom of the route but it wasn't at all problematic.

with Dave
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Conan 09/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with John Jennings
jonnie3430 24/May/15 AltLd O/S

3 pitches, I did 1st and 3rd. Bit chilly, some snow as we were topping out and had to cross snow slopes to get to crag.

with Carol
Carol Goodall 24/May/15 AltLd O/S

Last winter's snow made getting to the base of the route interesting in trainers. Climbed mostly in gloves and belay jacket due to the cold and snow whilst on route. Probably a great route which I would have enjoyed better if I had been warmer.

gunnarofhlidarend ??/2015 AltLd
Tarquin 09/Sep/14 Lead
with Louise
Louvet 09/Sep/14 2nd
with Tarquin
Hidden 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Ali
Graham Westbrook 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
mjackson 18/Jun/14 AltLd
RocKalina 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

In 5 pitches, I joined guidebook 3+4 into one very long pitch. Other pitches were all shorter than advertised. The crux was getting to the start, involving bridging up a very large bergschrund. Pitch 2 felt harder and bolder than S 4a, the rest all closer to VDiff. Anyway, a fantastic route, one of the best.

with Carmen
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
David_Gledson 21/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1, 3, 5.

with Gary
StuartCJones 10/Aug/13 -
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
stufish 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Drew, Jonny
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
MrRiley 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

As good as it gets really!

with Richard Hines, Debbie Lee
telemarker 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Strung P2 & P3 together and I think I climbed P5!

Debbie Lee 29/Jun/13 AltLd
with Ric, Dave Riley
Hidden 13/Jun/13 AltLd
Rickrick ?/Jun/13 -
captain ??/2013 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
michael83 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

pitches 2&3, bit slimey in places!

Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/12 AltLd
SWalls 26/Jun/12 AltLd
ladislav 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Not as good as Squareface, but still pretty special. Especially the mini-Tower Gap near the top.

with Stuart
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
marie_p 24/Sep/11 2nd
with Tom
tomdude 24/Sep/11 Lead

wild top pitch! felt quite hard, maybe it was just cold

with marie
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
bnewman 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Quite wild for the grade. I led p.2 and 3 together and the mega-exposed p.5. Pitch 4 is rotten.

with Johannes, Amelia
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd O/S
Mike-W-99 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant isolated route, led even pitches and felt good value for the grade. Top of pitch 4 is horrendously loose, treat with care!

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Odd pitches. Great route in a great situation and perfect weather. The jammed block on pitch one is entertaining. Finished up Bell's variation

with Mike
el diablo 15/May/10 AltLd
with Nick Bowen
andymoin 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark Jarvie
Sutty22 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Walked in, did Squareface then this and walked out the same day. I led the odd numbers. The 1st 3 pitches were brilliant, it got a bit scrappy after that. Fantastic exposure and views the whole way up.

errrrm? 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 4.

with sutty
jimorothy 26/May/09 AltLd

Fantastic, same day as Squareface and with Bell's sensational variation finish what a way to cap off an epic mini-expedition.

with Rachel Crolla
BALD EAGLE 24/May/09 Lead
with Rob Horler
Fraidknot 30/Sep/08 -

Via Bells Variation which is the best pitch on the clinb.

with Max Wilson
AlexD 02/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
joeurwin 01/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch, Alex led the rest.

with alex
ollythomas 30/Jul/08 Lead
with Chris Hendron
mark-abz 25/Jul/08 Lead
with Alex
Hidden ??/2008 -
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Captain Solo 04/Jun/06 Lead
with Karen
Chris L Hill ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
alan moore ??/2005 Solo

Evening hike in. Camp in coire on the south side. Route and out the next day. Magic. Didn't see another soul.

Hidden ??/2005 -
Yourlead 24/Aug/03 2nd

Climbed Bells variation at top

with Raymond Simpson, Graham Penny
Colin Mcgregor 22/Jul/00 Lead
OMR 22/Jul/00 2nd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2000 -
with Steve G
Hidden 03/May/99 AltLd O/S
mjeffery ??/1999 -
Bob M 21/Jun/98 AltLd
with Richard Alldread
DundeeDave 03/Aug/97 AltLd
with Ben Hughes
babymoac 19/Jul/97 Lead
with Liz
puddingstone 19/Jul/97 2nd
with Andy
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
AC1 ??/1995 -
with Jason Currie
tev 19/Jun/94 AltLd

Probably via "winter" start of Mitre Ridge

with Alan Y, Rod
Iain Thow 30/May/92 AltLd

Led 1,3,4&6 (Bell's Variation)

with Pete Brown
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
IanMcC ??/1990 AltLd
with Jimbo
Andy Say 22/Aug/89 Solo
rogerskews 04/Jun/85 -

Very long walk in, Cumming Crofton in light snow, then Squareface , followed by a long moonlit walk back south to the Dee. A fabulous day long remembered !

Nigel Bond 28/May/85 Lead
rogerskews 28/May/85 AltLd
amcleish ??/1985 -
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Votes cast 31
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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