Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A fine route in its own right but also a useful way to get off Aristocrat and Toffee Nose. Traverse right around the arete into the corner; continue up this for 6m, then take a rising line of jugs leftwards to the arete, and the half-height ledge. Up to here is around 6a upwards or down. The grade is given for the high continuation and is worth S3. © Rockfax
FSA. Julian Lines 30/Aug/2005.
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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Captain Caveman
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Lydstep Cavern Bay)