UKC

800m. The grade is a guess - the WA grading system gives it II, 4 - somewhere between a serious scramble and a low tech grade rock climb -the length, exposure, loose rock and route-finding make it alpine in character, but with more vegetation. It takes the long East Ridge, starting with a steep forested ridge, followed by finding your way around or over a series of pinnacles and buttresses, following the crest of the ridge for a few hundred feet and sticking to it as much as you can until you reach a big buttress not climbable at this standard. Traverse off left (NW) into a cirque, go to the head of it and get back onto the rock above to regain the ridge (a gully with a 30 ft chockstone in it is mentioned in the route description at this point, but we didn't find it). A series of easy angled but poorly protected pitches follow the line of the ridge, keeping just to the right (north) of the crest with belays on the ridge crest, until you get to Washington's 'nose' where the ridge narrows and levels off. From the nose, abseil into the gap between nose and chin (the summit of Mt Washington) and scramble up the chin to gain the summit. Descent by 'Route 1' - the standard route to the summit

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