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North-East (Mittellegi) Ridge*** D

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[Eiger Mittellegi ridge, 2 kb]The Mittellegi Ridge is probably the most popular route on the Eiger. It is a fantastic steep knife edged ridge offering excellent climbing with little or no objective danger. 4 to 8 hours from Mittellegi Hut
Yuko Maki, Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand & Fritz Steuri 10/Sep/1921

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Photo: Eiger Mittellegi ridge © Julian Prieto
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 40 logbooks, and on 87 wishlists.

BALD EAGLE - 21/Aug/13 with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo

Excellent. A hardish pitch starting up to the hut (UK 4c?) running with water. The difficulties are condition dependent - some verglass early in the morning was tough, ok when it warmed up later. Some fantastically exposed sections, never too hard but serious and some loose rock. The final snow ridge was amazing too. Long descent down the south ridge.
Poco Loco - AltLd - 21/Aug/13 with David M, Bald Eagle

Hidden - 2013

nking100 - 2013

descent via south ridge. 4 hrs to the summit, 10 hrs Mittellegi Hut to Monch hut. Hardest free climbing is on the approach to the hut, and climbing the towers on the descent! 9:40 on the summit, perfect conditions and views.
pawelx - 31/Jul/12

Hidden - 27/Jul/12

Hidden - 26/Jul/12

3rd assent of the year
mugglewump - Lead - Jun/12

2nd time ive climbed this route, managed it this time in a weekend trip from the UK, hard with not acclimatising but still a great weekend away.
tscoobydoo - 10/Sep/11

Amazing
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11 with Steve Seale

gowla - 09/Sep/11 with will kumar, adam booth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/11

Hidden - 25/Aug/11

Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Alan Turner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

Twas only us, 2 Chinese guides and quite a bit of snow on the Ridge. It's an outstanding climb - every bit of the way.
colenn - AltLd - 06/Sep/10 with Rob Noone

rob87n - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/10 with Colm ennis

great route,great weather...
tscoobydoo - Lead - Jul/10 with phillip belcher

chris687 - AltLd dnf - Jul/10 with James Pastouna, Gareth Steel

Joubert - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10

Mountain Llama - 2nd - 11/Sep/09 with Andy

Excellent climb, excellent weather, excellent day. Summited in shorts and exited via the South Ridge which was varied and absorbing all the way. Martin's 1st ever summit and the 1st time he has ever worn crampons - an old pair which he borrowed, along with walking boots, ice-axe, gaiters, helmet, underpants...
KRB - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09 with Martin Bridges

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/08

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Dad

Straightforward climbing (even on wet rock) assuming you use the fixed ropes, but really amazing exposure. It probably depends on conditions etc., but as of summer '08 all the local guides etc. I spoke to advised descent by South Ridge, not West Flank. (Route-finding & especially rockfall are v. problematic on the latter, apparently.) South Ridge decent is long but easy. (Two ropes gets you onto easy ground in 2 or 3 abs. from a little past summit.)
Darragh - Jul/08 with Mark

Chris Plewa - Jul/08

Hidden - 27/Jul/07

Great climb. Fantastic exposure. Long exciting descent down South Ridge to Monch hut. If you are competent in the mountains you don't need a guide. Route finding is obvious. Make sure you make reservations for the hut in Grindelwald beforehand. The hut fraulein gets angry if you just show up.
Brian Phillips - 01/Aug/05 with Peter

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/05

Celia Watson - Lead - 30/Jul/05 with stuart watson

Dave Latimer - AltLd - Jul/05

turned back by thunderstorm
DerwentDiluted - AltLd dnf - Jul/03 with Tim Stain

ashpreston - 2003

ian bryant - 2nd O/S - Aug/01 with walter

Hidden - 1997

gallonj - 1994

mark mcgowan01 - Jul/92 with Ian Haliday

Dave - AltLd - 1991

RichardMc - 16/Jul/81 with Dave Lund

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callum2806, MSchobitz, Hidden, Richardlake, NeilOMalley, bonoid, Zoe Cockburn, Hidden, Hidden, akhutton88, Hidden, Swampi, Hidden, gavinpeach, Hidden, cheek to the rock, jlmaskey, Hidden, blackreaver, Hidden, Mr-Cowdrey, Marktrin, bigtimematty, Graham C, Hidden, DavidR, Quarryboy, Aeneas, JonmapDL, Bradders, innesmac, paulmck, MaccMark, ryan_naked24, Hidden, CM1992, redshapedfriday, Hidden, Hidden, PeteWilson, Hidden, bosa noha, Hidden, D.Andrew, ollie1, MGrock, glennofsheff, davenev, cmars89, brianrunner, Nigel Mackwood, mag_to_grid, Hidden, roblew, Munch, Poco Loco, rnotman67, Hidden, alidixon, Hidden, Hidden, bluerockman, Nick Smith - UKC, Hidden, matty123, Sankey, Hidden, Tom Vivian, Lawrie Brand, Superchop75, Steve33, milkyjoe, Hidden, Hidden, Highball_Mike, speekingleesh, Big Lee, CMorris, Hidden, Hidden, marcashton, Hidden, vincentvega, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 16
hard D+0 of 8
D+0 of 8
easy D+2 of 8
hard D1 of 8
D3 of 8
easy D1 of 8
hard D-1 of 8
D-0 of 8
easy D-0 of 8
3 Stars8 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead9 of 40 (22.5%)
Followed3 of 40 (7.5%)
Alt Leads9 of 40 (22.5%)
Unknown19 of 40 (47.5%)

'Climbed'28 of 40 (70.0%)
clean O/S10 of 40 (25.0%)
dnf2 of 40 (5.0%)