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Cassin** TD

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North Ridge >>
[In the Cassin chimneys, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces.

Photo: In the Cassin chimneys © malcolmphelps
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on 95 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/12

9hrs30
LJC - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

every pitch worth 2 stars minimum. Next time take more that 1.5 litres of water between you... 13 hours up after a slower party ahead and 5 hours down. back to the hut to get some water!! and in tents by 2.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Remus Knowles

Simon Allcock - 2nd - 15/Aug/12 with Wilki

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Bart

Bart Shaw - AltLd - 08/Aug/12 with Tim

atek - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12

Hidden - 2012

Busy day on the Cassin, with approx 12 parties on it. Big bottleneck at the foot of the steep crack around pitch 12. Not much chance of overtaking after that. Overall about 7 1/2 hours to do the route and 4 1/2 down to the foot of the North Ridge. A couple of moves of 6a, but the main thing is it's 26 pitches so you've got to move.
Andy Chubb - 2nd - 23/Aug/11 with Twid Turner

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

southernclimber - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Perfect conditions. 8 hrs up, 4 to ab N ridge
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Chris Allan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Amazing route. Did it on the first day it came into condition this year and got stuck behind slower parties. Topped out not long before dark and shared the summit bivvy with six others.
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 10/Aug/11 with Dad

Get a really early start - particularly if you want to go down the North Ridge.
zukator - AltLd - 10/Aug/11 with Owain

Brilliant climb. Bone dry. Cruxes felt around the HVS/E1 mark. Lots of in situ gear and good belays when you need them. 14 hours from hut to hut. I will definitely carry more than 1 litre of water next time!
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Dave Latimer

Hidden - 2011

jamesturnbull - 2011 with aiden

Epic.
ollie1 - AltLd - 05/Sep/10

The best climbing experiance, pure perfection
nick bamber - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with martin knight

Awesome, but epic descent down North Ridge. Gets more sustained as height is gained.
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Dan Walker

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jul/10

basvdploeg - 2010

Wicked route. Be patient on descent. Left car 1am back 9pm, long day! Nothing harder than HVS, first chimney pitch i thought was the crux. Many, many pegs, didnt place a wire. Classic!
david morse - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with lole

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/09 with Stuart Williams

haydng - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Rachel

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Ruth

Apart from pulling on gear, falling off Neils route finding errors and the use of an ice axe :-)
mic_b - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Neil Furness

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/09

5h15, notch to summit
lukehunt - AltLd - 16/Jul/09 with Steve barrat

Felix lead trickier pitches, but i didn't find them difficult. Destroyed this route 5-6 hrs, v fast. Descent down ridge was pain.
tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/09 with Felix

Moved together for a lot of it. Cruxes felt very reasonable. Good time 5-6 hrs.
felixthelion - AltLd - 16/Jul/09 with T. Brookes

Excellent route. 7 hours from niche to summit.
HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Tom Ripley

Brilliant Route. Did it two years after first considering it. First up it that day and last off it having abbed onto the NW face by mistake. Joined with some Italians who spent two nights on the mountain. 25hours bivvy to bed but every second was worth it.
irish paul - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with Ed

Dirk Wallis - AltLd - 21/Aug/08 with Chris Hill

2 hrs walk from Sasc Fura to notch, 1 hour across ledges, 8 hrs up to N ridge (held up by slow parties), 1 hr to summit, 3 hrs down to Gianetti, 3 hrs down to road in Italy. 90 mins lift back to Vicosoprano.
Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/08 with Andy Cole

failed twice in 4 days, was first ill then got off route, will be back for this one!
Mark Walter - AltLd dnf - Aug/08 with Steve Becwith

hilled101 - AltLd - Aug/08 with Irish

tumbling wizard - AltLd - Aug/08

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Dirk Wallis

Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/07

Awesome!!! Did it on the wet over 12 hours, topped out as the sun set and climbed the remaining ridge by headtorch to reach bivi hut after 11pm. Great day out. Great route!
Oliver Sherman - AltLd dog - Aug/07 with Andy Sinclair

Wet rock. Oli lead the hard pitches, the star!
Siderunner - AltLd - Aug/07 with Oli

Upper chimneys very wet so pulled on a fair bit of gear there, otherwise all free. Got held up behind a very slow party so had an interesting descent of the N ridge in the dark.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Andy Inglis

Excellent climb.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/07 with neil adams

sadams - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/07 with Eric Hildrew

Had to back off due to route finding/ poor conditions high on route
Adam Booth - AltLd dnf - 06/Jul/07 with Ed Booth

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/07

Very Hot day great climbing, hard work on the decent, few rope jams and loss of Abb stations.
mux - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Simon Frost

frost - AltLd - Jul/07 with D Garry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/07

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2007 with Malcolm Scott

5.5 hours to climb face - awesome route
reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/05 with timmy elson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/05

Started at 2am from the car at the end of the road, got back to the car at 5am the next morning after 27 hours on the go.
tom.e - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Charlie Everett

sgl - Jul/05 with Konnie

ian bryant - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with dom

Justin Tracey - AltLd - Aug/03 with Dan Hinton

tuftynick - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with simon nadin, louise richards

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with helen gibson

Lots of keyrings to clip!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 1999 with Geoff Thomas

Stewart Armstrong - AltLd - Jul/93

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/90 with Angel Vila

Richard Weller - AltLd - Jul/88 with john sanders

Had to wait for face to clear of snow, chimneys were quite wet. Lead most of the route but Richard lead at least one of the nicer pitches. Descended the North Ridge. Most of climbing is less fine than the Cengalo
David Smith - AltLd - 04/Aug/81 with Richard Griffiths

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard TD+0 of 18
TD+0 of 18
easy TD+0 of 18
hard TD1 of 18
TD16 of 18
easy TD1 of 18
hard TD-0 of 18
TD-0 of 18
easy TD-0 of 18
3 Stars21 of 21
2 Stars0 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead5 of 73 (6.8%)
Followed3 of 73 (4.1%)
Alt Leads60 of 73 (82.2%)
Unknown5 of 73 (6.8%)

'Climbed'28 of 73 (38.4%)
clean O/S41 of 73 (56.2%)
dogged1 of 73 (1.4%)
dnf3 of 73 (4.1%)