Cassin** TD
[The third crux pitch on the Cassin, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces.

Photo: The third crux pitch on the Cassin © malcolmphelps
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This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 125 wishlists.

Great route. Left the car at midnight to beat the crowds, overtaken by a few parties and down to the Gianetti hut for 7pm. Long day!
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/15 with Louisa Reynolds

15 hours from base of climb to summit: about 7 hours climbing, 8 waiting. So frustrating watching so many displays of incompetence in front of us and not being able to get past! Did summit ridge with head torches and slept outside the bivvy hut. Good, varied climbing though, never really hard. Recommend getting a really early start or do at a quieter time of year!
chris_B - AltLd - 06/Aug/15 with Louise Atkin

Shame we got stuck behind the crowds - at least half the time on the route sat on belays waiting, at least a warm night to sleep on the summit with 13 other people!!! One blanket between two. Hmm stick to less "classic" routes in future?
louby - 06/Aug/15 with Chris Burn

Take lots of water (2L) minimum. Just goes on and on. The first pitch in the Exit Chimneys was horrendous, could arguably have been another crux. 6a crux feels like a sustained HVS (5a). Eleven hours from Cassin Boss to summit ridge. Traversed over the summit and dropped down to the Gianetti. Hell of a walk back the next day - see if you can get a lift!
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 04/Aug/15 with Neil Carruthers

Si - Aug/15

Nemmie - AltLd - 28/Jul/15

Great climb, good weather conditions for the climb then cloud moved in before topping out. Left the Sasc Fura Hut at 4am, climbed the route, descended down the South Couloir and at Ginanetti Hut before 7pm. Quick bowl of soup then a 1.5hr run down to Bagni del Mesino Valley to get a taxi to San Martino, Pizza and Beer by 2230!
Mark Fairhurst - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/15 with Jon Holliday

TRFrost - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/15 with N. Price

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 21/Jul/15 with Adrian Pedley

Left hut 3.30am back at hut 10am the following day!!, was all going well till i lost my belay device, abbing down the North ridge would be a ball acke at the best of times made worse on an Italian hitch which turned the rope to tangled spagetti with numerous rope snags on the pull through meaning jugging back up the ropes in the dark four times with impending thunderstorms going off all around a real joy, we got into a rythem and made it to a ledge by midnight and decided to bivvi there for the night and wait for light, many "spooning moments" later the sun came up and we were 4 abseils from the col, the north ridge is a real pain, even in the light it would be tricky. The climb is great fun, felt hard for the grades but nowhere desperate, the climbing took us eleven hours but getting stuck behind other groups must have cost us upto 3 hrs, 50 m ropes, 12 quickdraws, set of friends, wires 1~10 and a few long slings each, 2 litre of water each just about did it but then again it wasnt that hot!!, take something warm just incase you have an unplanned bivvi and dont knock the spooning, needs must!!
a pedley - AltLd - 21/Jul/15 with neil Griffeths

rlade - 2015

Epic few days. Flew out, drove to Bondo and walked in to the bivi spot on Saturday. Climbed the route on Sunday, finished in the dark and did the last hour moving along the ridge to the summit with head-torches. Night in bivi hut, descended to Italy on Monday, and walked back over the passes to the Sasc Fura. Didn't especially enjoy the climbing itself but being on that face is pretty epic. Colin did a great job on the hard top pitches as I was knackered by then, carrying a bad cold/hacking cough.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd - 08/Sep/14 with Colin Peck

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14

Hidden - 2014

First ascent for the season apparently. There are some snow patches on the traverse into the route but they were reasonably negotiable with some stiff approach shoes, crampons and ice axes. Rest of the route is super dry. Decent down N.ridge. Good rap anchors, mostly 35 meters apart!
robpartridge - AltLd - 15/Jul/13 with Chris Sheridan

Classic, route finding better than expected. Long ab down north ridge.
rich.manterfield - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Josh Fawcett

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/12

LJC - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Emily Ward

every pitch worth 2 stars minimum. Next time take more that 1.5 litres of water between you... 13 hours up after a slower party ahead and 5 hours down. back to the hut to get some water!! and in tents by 2.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Remus Knowles

Simon Allcock - 2nd - 15/Aug/12 with Wilki

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Bart

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/12

First day of good weather in a while, way too busy. 7h climbing, 8h waiting, beautiful sunset on the summit, scary abseils in the night.
HansStuttgart - Aug/12

atek - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12

Hidden - 2012

This was the second time ive done the route. Lead all the pitches as partners first alpine route.
thebigeasy - Lead - Sep/11 with Hanner

Busy day on the Cassin, with approx 12 parties on it. Big bottleneck at the foot of the steep crack around pitch 12. Not much chance of overtaking after that. Overall about 7 1/2 hours to do the route and 4 1/2 down to the foot of the North Ridge. A couple of moves of 6a, but the main thing is it's 26 pitches so you've got to move.
Andy Chubb - 2nd - 23/Aug/11 with Twid Turner

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

southernclimber - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Perfect conditions. 8 hrs up, 4 to ab N ridge
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Chris Allan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Amazing route. Did it on the first day it came into condition this year and got stuck behind slower parties. Topped out not long before dark and shared the summit bivvy with six others.
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 10/Aug/11 with Dad

Get a really early start - particularly if you want to go down the North Ridge.
zukator - AltLd - 10/Aug/11 with Owain

Brilliant climb. Bone dry. Cruxes felt around the HVS/E1 mark. Lots of in situ gear and good belays when you need them. 14 hours from hut to hut. I will definitely carry more than 1 litre of water next time!
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Dave Latimer

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - 2011

jamesturnbull - 2011 with aiden

ollie1 - AltLd - 05/Sep/10

The best climbing experiance, pure perfection
nick bamber - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with martin knight

Awesome, but epic descent down North Ridge. Gets more sustained as height is gained.
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Dan Walker

C Mclean - AltLd - 14/Jul/10 with Tom Nichols

rufus.duits - Solo - Jul/10

basvdploeg - 2010

Wicked route. Be patient on descent. Left car 1am back 9pm, long day! Nothing harder than HVS, first chimney pitch i thought was the crux. Many, many pegs, didnt place a wire. Classic!
david morse - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with lole

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/09 with Stuart Williams

haydng - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Rachel

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Ruth

Apart from pulling on gear, falling off Neils route finding errors and the use of an ice axe :-)
mic_b - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Neil Furness

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/09

5h15, notch to summit
lukehunt - AltLd - 16/Jul/09 with Steve barrat

Felix lead trickier pitches, but i didn't find them difficult. Destroyed this route 5-6 hrs, v fast. Descent down ridge was pain.
tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/09 with Felix

Moved together for a lot of it. Cruxes felt very reasonable. Good time 5-6 hrs.
felixthelion - AltLd - 16/Jul/09 with T. Brookes

Excellent route. 7 hours from niche to summit.
HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Tom Ripley

Brilliant Route. Did it two years after first considering it. First up it that day and last off it having abbed onto the NW face by mistake. Joined with some Italians who spent two nights on the mountain. 25hours bivvy to bed but every second was worth it.
irish paul - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with Ed

Dirk Wallis - AltLd - 21/Aug/08 with Chris Hill

2 hrs walk from Sasc Fura to notch, 1 hour across ledges, 8 hrs up to N ridge (held up by slow parties), 1 hr to summit, 3 hrs down to Gianetti, 3 hrs down to road in Italy. 90 mins lift back to Vicosoprano.
Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/08 with Andy Cole

failed twice in 4 days, was first ill then got off route, will be back for this one!
Mark Walter - AltLd dnf - Aug/08 with Steve Becwith

hilled101 - AltLd - Aug/08 with Irish

tumbling wizard - AltLd - Aug/08

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Dirk Wallis

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Andy Dunhill

Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/07

Awesome!!! Did it on the wet over 12 hours, topped out as the sun set and climbed the remaining ridge by headtorch to reach bivi hut after 11pm. Great day out. Great route!
Oliver Sherman - AltLd dog - Aug/07 with Andy Sinclair

Wet rock. Oli lead the hard pitches, the star!
Siderunner - AltLd - Aug/07 with Oli

Upper chimneys very wet so pulled on a fair bit of gear there, otherwise all free. Got held up behind a very slow party so had an interesting descent of the N ridge in the dark.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Andy Inglis

Excellent climb.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/07 with neil adams

sadams - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/07 with Eric Hildrew

Had to back off due to route finding/ poor conditions high on route
Adam Booth - AltLd dnf - 06/Jul/07 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - AltLd - 06/Jul/07 with Adam Booth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/07

Very Hot day great climbing, hard work on the decent, few rope jams and loss of Abb stations.
mux - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Simon Frost

frost - AltLd - Jul/07 with D Garry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/07

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2007 with Malcolm Scott

5.5 hours to climb face - awesome route
reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/05 with timmy elson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/05

Started at 2am from the car at the end of the road, got back to the car at 5am the next morning after 27 hours on the go.
tom.e - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Charlie Everett

sgl - Jul/05 with Konnie

ian bryant - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with dom

Justin Tracey - AltLd - Aug/03 with Dan Hinton

tuftynick - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with simon nadin, louise richards

Quality route, only 1 or 2 broken pitches. Technical climbing equivalent to english 5b. Belays equipped with 2 bolts. (shame as it causes other parties to crowd the belays...)
nickdonohue - AltLd - Aug/03 with Jon Aylward

Robmwatt - 2003 with Gaz Morgan

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with helen gibson

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 27/Jul/02 with Alan Smith

Lots of keyrings to clip!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 1999 with Geoff Thomas

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Stewart Armstrong - AltLd - Jul/93

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/90 with Angel Vila

Richard Weller - AltLd - Jul/88 with john sanders

Had to wait for face to clear of snow, chimneys were quite wet. Lead most of the route but Richard lead at least one of the nicer pitches. Descended the North Ridge. Most of climbing is less fine than the Cengalo
uphillnow - AltLd - 04/Aug/81 with Richard Griffiths

Hidden - Aug/80

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Total votes cast 48
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S