This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
Carl fell off and fractured his arm at the top of the first pitch, so we did not finish, but abseiled off the stance.
The first pitch has v little natural protection and I relied heavily on the in-situ protectuib.
The in-situ thread is jammed with old slings (and a corroded, unusable, screw gate) that need to be cut, removed and replaced.
At least two of the rusty pegs are unsafe because they carry jammed, corroded screw gates that need to be cut off. One of the pegs cannot take a crab directly because the eye is too close to the rock, so I threaded it with a wire.
One of the pegs with a jammed screw gate was after the traverse. Fortunately this has the best natural protection on the first pitch, in which I stuffed a couple of wires (3+4) (and on which Carl subsequently fell). The peg itself I used as a spike with a sling because the in-situ screw gate is corroded with the collar half done, so it's not properly shut, can't safely be used, and it prevents anything else using the peg eye.
I could place no protection for the second on the first 5m or so of the top rightwards traverse to the stance, which is where Carl fell when his hold came off. He hit a bulge with a big swing, head first, then bounced onto his arm.
Anyone else considering this route should probably take a knife, replacement sling and a bolt cutter.
petecallaghan - Lead dnf - 07/Nov/10 with Carl Hubbard
Very green and lose. Niall lead 1st pitch with horrible gear and belay, I lead the second with not much better...slightly run out
porridgefan - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Niall Francis
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/09
Hidden - 19/Aug/09
shark - AltLd - 12/Sep/86 with Minky
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