Rockfax Description
The right-hand finish of the classic Trinity gullies gives another great snow route
1) 1, 130m. Climb the easy snow-ramp to the snow patch called The Spider
2) 2, 30m. Follow the gully rightwards until the walls become more pronounced
3) 3, 40m. Continue up the gully with interest
4) 3, 50m. More tricky icy-gully climbing
5) 1, 100m. The easy snow-slope leads to the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Pete_Frost 11/Mar Solo dnf

Rime-ice was falling from the sun-warmed gully walls and created a number of mini avalanches, plus the snow below the chockstone had become wet and slushy by around 11:00 today. Further climbing would have ruined the snow for tomorrow (assuming it freezes again tonight) and the bucket-loads of ice fragments being poured onto my head were becoming tiresome, so I backed-off.

Paul Baller 26/Feb Lead
with matt stevens
dashby 07/Feb/15 AltLd

A fabulous day and a fabulous climb

with Jonathan Hubbard
Sophie Nunn 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Ian L, Floris
max_dickens 06/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Neil D 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Roger Cruse 03/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
with Kris
Hidden 01/Mar/14 2nd
chris warner 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Great route in fantastic conditions

with Chris Jose, Mike Dudley
BradleyWhite 07/Feb/14 Lead
morgan91 07/Feb/14 Lead
stevensduk ?/Feb/14 2nd
oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Stone Muppet 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Quite thin, turfy, tricky. Glorious day and fun sliding back down pyg track!

with ceri
shavec 06/Apr/13 2nd
Glyn 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Bit powdery

with Amy
Amy UT 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Great first winter climbing experience. More mixed than was expecting. Good hand holds coming out from cave belay.

with Glyn
Hidden 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
frost 28/Feb/13 Solo
with D Almond
robblowen 25/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with John
Hidden 25/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Binder 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Great conditions, lovely route. Ran out of rope on p3 and had to stop two yards shy of the belay spike!

Tim Sparrow 24/Feb/13 Lead
with Piers Nesbitt
Dan Lane 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Done in 3 pitches. H led to Cave. I led crux pitch and Alex to just below the top. Brilliant route and my hardest winter lead to date. the move out of the small cave belay was quite tricky, it was quite lean but some really good turf all the way up the route. Great fun!

Hardonicus 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Alt leads, we all did a pitch each. Fun climbing.

with Dan Lane, Alex Thompson
Alex Thompson 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Lead top pitch. Awkward moves from cave, but decent hand holds/hooks available.

pwb1981 23/Feb/13 Lead
Matt Cooke 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
DannyK 23/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with Katie
deklan 11/Feb/13 AltLd
with dad
3kidsandanorton 09/Feb/13 AltLd
Mr Wild 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Got lost looking for Gamrof so popped up this. Felt thin but not sure, nice route though

Hidden ?/Jan/13 Solo O/S
jjridley ?/Jan/13 -
wi11 13/Dec/12 Solo O/S
with Brian
Hidden 13/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
frost 13/Dec/12 Solo
DannyK 13/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Perfect day: -5, no wind, blue sky's and bomber neve.

Pete_Frost 12/Dec/12 Solo rpt
matt0759 12/Dec/12 AltLd
with JamesA
Hidden 12/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 08/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Piers Harley 03/Dec/12 AltLd

A bit soft but it went

with Jeremy Windsor
Hidden 02/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
steve-grigg 30/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Guide said it was 2/3 but felt more like a hard 3. Powdery most the way up, turf wasn't very frozen and no proper ice, meant there was a few hard moves well above any gear, still had great fun though

Webster 30/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

slightly dodgy conditions from the 1st proper pitch upwards with unconsolidated snow ontop of non frozen turf, but still good fun. 1 move of tecnical grade 4 above the cave belay and sustained grade 3 climbing on the first true pitch (3rd pitch listed in guide)

maddy92 30/Nov/12 2nd O/S
tsjx 11/Feb/12 AltLd
with Marq
Marq 11/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Very soft and mixed. Following teams belay failed!

bms 08/Feb/12 AltLd

Snow not particularly well consolidated but turf solid. Interesting all the way.

with BCS
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
cymjt ??/2012 -
mark_jc 08/Jan/11 2nd
31770 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 Solo
Ben ski 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Stuart Oram, Kai Leyendecker
bob johnson 14/Mar/10 AltLd

conditions - just fine

with Bram
George Ormerod 10/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Roger
Roger Cruse 10/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with George
Falko 07/Mar/10 Solo

Arrived at base of Clogwyn y Garnedd at 07:50hrs in superb weather conditions. There was one other soloist on the entire face (he did R-H Trinity then L-H Trinity). My climbing partner was feeling weary from the previous day’s exertions so he opted to stay ‘below’ and sunbathe. An exit ‘notch’ in the large cornice was clearly visible. Snow/ice conditions in the gully were good but the ice on the r-h side of the chockstone had been stripped by the recent hoardes (several ascents the previous day). This called for a bit of jiggery-pokery to enable a sequence of bridging moves. The spring sunshine was beginning to have an effect on the cornice, necessitating an exciting rising traverse to the exit notch. Topped out at 08:59. This completes my trio of Trinity solos, first started in 1977.

Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Solo
bms 03/Mar/10 Lead

Great route. Harder than I expected. Only 1 other party on the face - in Lady's Gully.

with DW
Hidden 03/Mar/10 2nd
cooper leek 01/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with dennis, donk
donkster 01/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with ben, dennis
Bex_M 28/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Briwi 27/Feb/10 2nd O/S

Lead by Sam. Strayed off-route to avoid cornice at top of climb. No wind but poor vis. Great climb and even found an ice wall to play with on the way down! Suspect vote reflects off-route...

Hidden 18/Feb/10 Lead O/S
farmus21 14/Feb/10 Lead

Moved together for most of it. Best of the 3 Trinity Gullies. Not hard but sustains interest... Worth getting up at 6am and beating the hordes.

with Sam Radcliffe
Gwyneth 14/Feb/10 2nd
with Stewart
steven 07/Feb/10 AltLd
with Brian Hull
Hidden 07/Feb/10 2nd
MikeLell 06/Feb/10 Solo O/S

Followed three guys up who were pitching it, a bit thin in places. Cornice beginning to break off :S

stuart34 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S

led 1st two pitches, thin in places

with Stuart Buchan, James Monypenny
samrad ?/Feb/10 -
with james G, smallerrich
elhig1 ?/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

huge 15ft cornice at top of route

with Steve tatham
smallerrich ?/Feb/10 -
with Sam
llevick 30/Jan/10 2nd dog

fell on first pitch at base of climb! Mixed conditions.

with ebastock, Edd the duck!, John Beddard, Dan Ashfield, Sophie John
The_Boy_ODwyer ?/Jan/10 AltLd

Only crag in in Wales when we were there, happy times :-)

with Rob
ebastock ?/Jan/10 2nd

Soloed the 1st pitch which was a bit thin. Start of the 2nd pitch was very thin too. An adventurous day out!

with John Beddard
Hidden ??/2010 -
david morse 28/Dec/09 Solo
BorisVBlade 28/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 3. Really great climb, amazing views!

with Ben Ram
thecurlyone 28/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Some turf not fully frozen. Unconsolidated Snow. Beautiful Day!

Hidden 11/Feb/09 2nd
Glyn Davidson 08/Feb/09 Solo dnf

Went to do right hand today, wasn't in condition though, very loose and lots of spin drift. Soloed the first pitch and then down climbed.

with Stewart
The Bad Cough 07/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Lee Bonner and Paul Sambrooks
jade Edwards Leaney 06/Feb/09 AltLd
with gavin
Hidden 04/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
barni 02/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Northern
sebrider ?/Feb/09 -

Thin and lots of spindrift on crux, oh the joys :)

with Dan Walker
porridgefan 28/Jan/09 2nd O/S

First winter route! Bloody brilliant too!

with Huw Gilbert
Kaiser999 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Variable snow conditions throughout but with some decent neve and thin ice on the difficulties

with Dave Owen
Carly 13/Apr/08 -
with rich/chris
Hidden 13/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
mike.moss ??/2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/06 Solo
Tobias at Home 26/Feb/06 Solo

very thin. mainly frozen vertical grass.

Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
grazedandconfused ??/2006 2nd
with chris shorrock
Hidden ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
MjrTom ?/Jan/02 Solo

Most scary experience of my life. Conditions were very thin, comprising of mainly thin frozen turf. spindrift avalances down the gully. Topped out after dark.

with paul m hadley
NeilGriffiths 25/Feb/01 -

Lean, frozen turf

with John Isaard
akhughes ??/2000 Solo O/S
AB1965 10/Apr/98 AltLd
Hidden 11/Dec/96 AltLd
Hidden 14/Feb/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/95 AltLd
Hidden 25/Feb/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/93 AltLd
Hidden 05/Apr/92 Lead
mark-abz 18/Jan/91 Solo
with Andy W
Sean Kelly ?/Jan/91 -
with John Hynes
dodders ?/Jan/90 AltLd
with Dick Hargreaves
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Nick Biven 08/Mar/86 Solo
michael burrows 26/Jan/86 AltLd O/S
with steve alger
kenny boy 12/Jan/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 2nd
Hidden 12/Jan/85 AltLd
steveb2006 07/Apr/83 AltLd
with Mike Pryzodski
Tim Sparrow ?/Feb/83 -
with Ned
nniff ?/Feb/83 -
Hidden 01/Jan/82 AltLd
Steve Woollard ??/1979 AltLd
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Feb/75 AltLd
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
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High IV
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Low IV
High III
Votes cast 27
High 4
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Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
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High 2
Mid 2
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Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set