This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.
First pitch is absolute choss. Filthy, wet & loose in parts, BUT it is in a great situation, with a few awkward 4c/5a moves and although i hated every minute and especially the finishing groove (grovel!) i felt extremely good (relieved?) when i got to the ledge. Franco followed and laughed at how a 4c/5a pitch could have been soo Epic!
Franco then attempted to climb the Crack but it was covered in a green wet film and after a valiant effort, we retreated off. Battered, muddy but we felt we had accomplished something? :-)
Dave Warburton - AltLd dnf - 06/Jun/08 with Franco Cookson
A dangerous scramble up to the bottom of the route, claimed my rucksack- down, off the cliff. We then set out on the '3 starred line'. Dooge ran out a fair few metres over classic 5a rock- covered in ferns, grass, mud, general grease. He nearly lost it, especially when the 'eagles' swooped in, but he got to the ledge and brought me up to the ledge. I geared up and slithered up- ramming a leg jam in the overhanging crack. This is how i attacked it- one leg in the crack, one off-width and the other limbs trying to get something on the grease. We had forgotten the large friend, so the only gear was one in-situ wire. The only problem was one of it's wires had rusted through so only friction was keeping the nut head on. I led on scarred and knackered- made my own fist jam out of a pile of chockstones and led up the green crux. I was slipping and the holds were buried. I eventually had to down climb the whole route- It was too steep to ab for the gear. A failure, but an experience. We abed off a suspect in-situ green sling and went for some food and a 'look' at Bleak How. We later looked through a more modern guide, that said a bird ban had been in place for 6 years- explained a lot about the filth. The 'Eagles' were probably peregrines. We didn't know though so shouldn't feel too guilty.
Franco Cookson OLD - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/08 with David Warburton
jim robertson - 2006
Luke took a couple of falls onto the chockstone on the 2nd pitch, it then fell out when I used it as an undercling.
craig h - AltLd - 29/Jul/96 with Luke Steer
thunderstorm came in whilst on crux - lowered off
David Smith - Lead dnf - Jul/85
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980
Pedro50 - AltLd O/S - 20/May/78 with Wil Hurford
John needed 10 minutes to recover at the top before he could set the belay. I told him to keep taking in and did a desperate layback.
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - 1977 with John Bogg
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
French Erick, Hidden, Dan Geh, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Ian Jones