UKC

Restricted Access

Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Variable restriction sometimes apply - see on-site signing. There is usually a restriction from 1st March - 1st August affecting the whole crag, assume thsi is in place unless signage says differently...

21m, 2 pitches. Reaches the right hand overhanging black groove in the left-hand arĂȘte of the main crag (just right of Blackout). Technical and marginally protected on the crux.
1) 6b, 12m. Traverse fairly easily leftwards above roofs to an exposed position on the arĂȘte (peg). Make extending moves up the short crack above and swing left and up to a small flat ledge beneath the groove.
2) 6c, 9m. Climb the black, overhanging and invariably greasy right hand groove above to a sensational exit on jugs.

FA. M.Crocker, J.Harwood 14/Oct/1995.

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Guidebooks for Abermawr Area

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Stennis the Menace

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Stennis Head)

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