No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m.

kingjam 30/Aug AltLd

Awesome climb very long , went down to giannetti after realising we would have to reverse all the pitches of the summit ridge to get to abseil rings . Lots of traffic but worth it .

RobScarisbrick 30/Aug AltLd O/S

10hrs in vapour v's 1size to small, bad idea! Busy day on the ridge a bun fight at the first pitch saw us shuffled back a few parties, nevertheless we moved well had awesome weather the whole day and arrived at the Gianetti in time for pasta and beer. We changed from the original plan to descend the north ridge which would have required retracing the last half dozen pitches just to get back to the start of the abs.

with James
Little AndyH 26/Aug AltLd O/S
robgixer 26/Aug Lead
Hidden 13/Aug -
chapmand 03/Aug AltLd O/S

Left the sasc fura at 04:10. Started climbing at 06:40, topped out at 10am. 3.5hrs on route. Moved together all the way. Probably 12-15 teams behind us! Walked down to Gianetti hut for pasta and coffee lunch then walked down to Bagni del Masino for 16:00.

Sir Stefan 17/Jul AltLd
with Niels Riegels
krispy_fish2000 14/Jul AltLd O/S
Richard Goodey ?/Jul -
Rob84 08/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Got about a third of the way up before a storm rolled in and we had to bail. Great climbing up to there and pretty straightforward on the whole - easy slab climbing with regular ring bolts to clip for runners while moving together. The snow patches were just about passable in trainers, without crampons or axe but an axe between two to chop steps might have been a bit more pleasant. Will definitely be back for this one and the Cassin.

with Mel
cearbhalld 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Ab back down took longer. Should have gone into Italy.

davkeo 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Little AndyH 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Sam Marks 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Bloody Brilliant. First proper alpine climb. Took just over 5 hours, descended down the Italian side and hitch hiked all the way round to Bondo in the same day.

with Jack Hodgson
Jodgson 04/Aug/14 AltLd

Bivied just below the first snow field, climbed the route in 5 hr 15 minutes, descended the Italian side and hitched all the way back round to Bondo in one awesome day. First big alpine route, well pleased!

JessWilliams 04/Aug/14 AltLd
with Dad
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Julian Prieto 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
cliffy 31/Jul/14 AltLd
Freshprintce 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
maria85 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

We were planning on descending the ridge but decided on ascent that it would be too much faffing... dropped down to the Gianetti hut instead and walked back the next day. I do not recommend that walk, horrible!! Loose choss on sloping ledges. If I'm up there again, staying in the bivi hut on the summit and descending the ridge the following day would be a much better option. Ridge was fantastic though! Moved together for all of it, though rope drag shortened a few sections significantly. Don't think it was much faster than pitching it efficiently, but possibly more fun :)

with Jules
Uisdean hawthorn 01/Sep/13 -
Kirill 21/Aug/13 AltLd

I was a bit too tired to appreciate the views from the top.

with Stevo
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/13 AltLd

Up the north ridge (7 ish hours) and down the same side (6 ish hours). For descent mixture of down climbing and abseiling to the top of Another Day in Paradise, you can't simply ab down the north ridge on brass ring bolts, the shape of the ridge doesn't allow this and I think some of the ring bolts are more than 50 metres apart and not in the logical place for repeated abseiling, despite what the Chris Mellor guide says). Then 14 abseils down Another Day In Paradise which I guess was quite risky given we can't climb F6c! However we did have another party behind and in front of us that could! A long tiring but very satisfying day with very good weather and views. We started scrambling up to the start from our bivi at dawn and came back to the same spot at dusk and walked back out getting to the campsite at around midnight, having got up at 5 am! We only moved together for the first 2 pitches, and around 4 higher up as well as for most of the scrambling to the summit after the last pitch.

matthomas79 30/Jul/13 -

We decided to climb as much as we could setting a limited of reaching as high as possible by 1pm. By 2:18pm we reached the exit area for another day in paradise, We weren't quite sure where we were, thinking we were at the top of the technical climbing we decided to ab back down as my partner wanted to be back in Bondo that night. Not seeing this as dnf but not perhaps the start of something new in my climbing. Still amazing climbing up to this point nothing difficult just bold.

with Paul Lee
GuyVG 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

long, abseil descent not so bad if you stick to the ridge/rings. advise twin 60s, lots of stations could be skipped on way up and down.

with oli
AJH 18/Jul/13 -

Abseil retreat around halfway up after rain and hail made further progress problematic to say the least. Still lots of snow on the approach - crampons and ice axe necessary

with Keith
wherewelf ?/Jul/13 -
Tdavy01 ?/Jul/13 -
Rickrick ?/Jul/13 -
nking100 ??/2013 -
alasdair19 ??/2013 -

in descent

mdryburgh 06/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Awesome Climb. 4 and a bit hour ascent. Really enjoyed it!!

with James Smith
Hidden 06/Sep/12 -
fishjh2 25/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

very easy pleasant climbing with stunning views. loooong descent back down if you drop your belay plate!

Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with stu
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Poco Loco 18/Jul/12 AltLd

Just excellent, start to finish. Perfect conditions. Less fun getting to the Gianetti hut. A big rock fall just after we got down clipped a party behind us.

BALD EAGLE 18/Jul/12 AltLd

A truly superlative climb and the Pom and I were truly blessed with perfect conditions. Take double ropes for the descent into Italy to the Gianetti Hut, as the ab rings are well spaced, and be careful of much loose rock...

with James Pomeroy
Hidden 16/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
adamwesthead 17/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

7 hours to summit. Came down on the Italian side which involved down scrambling and 4 abseils

with Zeb
zebster 17/Sep/11 AltLd
with Adam
Hidden 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
al99 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
martinazando 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
zach.stone 10/Aug/11 AltLd

Cold Cold Cold. And long.

bigbobbyking 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Cold wind kept up all day making it a bit tiring. Everything you'd expect from a classic alpine route: a bit longer than you'd expected, big queues and loose rock :-) Descented to Gianetti - glad didn't go down the ridge!

pete1993 10/Aug/11 AltLd
Phil Emerson ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Dave Latimer ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Cham32 ?/Aug/11 -

route was super dry in late August - we were 1st out of the hut at about 4.30 - changed into rock boots at the little col and then 3hrs 20 to the summit - only pitched the short crux traverse. rapped down and passed several very slow parties all stuck on the grade 4 slabs. Feet were like hambergers at the bottom. Nice beer in the hut, back at the car by 5.15 and just in time for a pizza from the Stone Bar back in Argentiere before 10.

benclimbing ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
libby.southgate 12/Jul/11 AltLd

Tried to do this route earlier in the trip but we were caught in a thunderstorm during the walk in the night before. After getting soaked and sleeping in very wet tents we woke up to bad weather so had to head down the mountain without trying the route. On second attempt we Bivviied the night before the climb and then got about 3/4 up before the weather closed in. Having no wish to be caught in a second storm on the Badille we started descent at 11am via abseil. The descent took 4+ hours not including the 3 or 4 hour walk down the mountain.

Hidden 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Ginger McGrath 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

had been hoping to do the cassin but conditions didnt allow, moved together, then abbed the ridge, not nearly as bad as some make out, abbing on one rope helps stop faff, 10 hours up and down.

with phil emerson
jonnie3430 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Marie
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
Pero 04/Sep/10 Lead

It's easy to underestimate the climbing on this route. Most pitches seemed to have a hard move or two, so we pitched the whole thing. 12 hours from col to summit (for competent VS climbers). Bivied on way down. Longest and best thing I've ever led for sure.

garywong 26/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic, but took about 10 hours, finishing about 5pm. Not enough time for Swiss descent, so attempted to get to Rif. Gianetti. Got too dark so had to bivvy.

with Ben Ram
thecurlyone 26/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Gary Wong
Hidden 23/Aug/10 -
wildrover220 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

An absolutely phenomenal route that keeps going and going. Seriously underestimated how long it would take and ended up taking 11hours to the summit. Off route and benighted on descent and slept on a ledge in the original descent gulley.

Matt Bennett 04/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Moved quickly together in approach shoes, lewis followed an alluring ledge littered with pegs, pulled some loose flakes off and took and ankle damaging fall (3/4 up route). Lowered lewis + abbed back down ridge.

with Lewis Grey
Pete Nugent 04/Aug/10 -

Relatively slow start compared to others as we simul climbed we soon caught up with the teams ahead. Weather was good so we just followed the others but his slowed ascent (summit about 16.30 - Gianetti abt 21.00. Staretd raining about midnight and downpur continued all the following day (Thurs)

with John Venier
Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
R2B 01/Aug/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/10 2nd O/S
alidixon ??/2010 -
J1PEF ?/Aug/09 AltLd

classic long day wouldn't do abs again!!

Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
innes ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Elsier 26/Jul/09 AltLd

My favourite climbing experience so far, wow what an amazing experience! We bivied on the ledge at the base of the route, long tiring day out (we walked off the Italian side the same day- all the huts were full) but so worth it!

with Stuart
Karl Wooffindin 17/Jul/09 AltLd
with Pete Whittaker
Hidden 17/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Pythonist 10/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Lack of crampons made walking v. difficult - too much snow hanging around late in the season! Start from Sasc Fura at 4:30, base of ridge 7:30, summit 11, abseil down (don't do it...) and back for beers at the hut for 5pm. Chris led whole thing, I just kept up!

with Chris Jennions
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
liamoloughlin ?/Sep/08 Lead

4hrs from Col to summit. 10hrs from summit to Bondo. Will walk off the Italian side next time.

tumbling wizard ?/Aug/08 AltLd
davebrox ?/Aug/08 Lead β
Hidden 31/Jul/08 AltLd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

4:15 for the route, twice as long to get back down and then another trek back to the car = 15 hours. It was a quality day though!

Byronius Maximus 29/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Descended normal route in to Italy and walked back the next day. Next year; Cassin!

Guy Wilson ?/Jul/08 -
with Byron Buck
barrington1978 ?/Jul/08 -
Hera ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
lx 08/Sep/07 AltLd

7hrs 15mins to summit. Moved together all the way. Descended down route. Had to bivy on mountain on descent cos got dark and couldn't find ab stations. 29hrs total. 1st alpine route!

with andy barker
Ken Applegate ?/Sep/07 Lead
with Phil Applegate
Andrew Barker ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Took longer than expected. Nearly got hit by a TV-sized block that Ben's dad sent down from above on the ascent. Got most of the way back down before an unplanned bivvy. Ben and his dad were quicker and got off the ridge. Did the remaining few abseils the next morning. Amused to find out that Ben and his dad couldn't find the hut in the dark and ended up sleeping in the trees within a very short distance of it!

with Phil Applegate, Ken Applegate, Alex Fry, Curly Ben Harding
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Adam Booth 08/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Amazing, go down off the other side, NOT back down the ridge!!

Ed Booth 08/Jul/07 AltLd
Gustav ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Moved together, descended South side and walked back round to Bondo in 1 V long day!

with James H
tjekel ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
maresia 09/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Moving together all the way up only to get beasted by a storm just as we started descending. Lightning is not our friend but helicopters are!

Dale ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

My first ever alpine route. Climbed roped together, took bout 10 hours to the top climbing roped together. What an experience one I will never forget. At the top the exposer of 1000meteres or so went write to my head I could do two things freeze or just continue to laugh, so I laughed all the way across the top ridge. At the summit every1 took the piss when I pulled out a jar of olives and a kinife which I carried with me to the top. We were going to abb back down but that was so not going to happen, so we decided to head to the italian hut. We got lost on the one abb and went down a scary gully, at bottom we read in guide book do not go down the death gully o well to late. We then got to the hut but had no passports to get back into switzaland the next day. So I drank my way threw italy and dave went to get the car ashe had his passport was quite drunk by this point.

Hidden 10/Jul/06 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Andy Clarke 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Dale's first alpine route - quite an introduction! A proper classic: a superb line that grabs your attention from miles away and provides plenty of enjoyably exposed climbing. Abbing back down the ridge looked a right pain, so we changed our minds and descended into Italy. Passed the night after a grappa or two at the very pleasant Gianetti hut, then spent the next day drinking our way back to the campsite by foot, bus, train and car. All in all, an excellent adventure.

with Dale
danm ?/Aug/05 -

4 hours up, more down!

with Doctor Cook
andyinglis ?/Aug/05 -
with neil adams
tom.e ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Moved together all the way up in 3:15

Neil Adams ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 07/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with simon fairman
jsw1 29/Jul/02 AltLd O/S

Stunning route, moved together on a lot of it but had to pitch some of it. The weather came in from the South though so we got to the summit in an almighty thunder storm. Hair standing on end under my helment and the static in the air was palpable. The original intent was to abseil down the route but due to the storm we headed for the Gianetti Hut, descending down the South Face normal route in appauling conditions. Heavy rain, hail stones, deafening thunder that was instantaneous with the lightning. A bit on the scary side at the time, but all the more fun for it looking back. The food at the Gianetti Hut was amazing. From when we got up at Sasc Fura to when we arrived at Gianetti was 16 hours in total, and epic day, now a treasured memory. The return over the Porcellizzo and Trubinasca Passes felt long and hard the day after, taking 9 hours to get back to the car near Bondo.

with Kezia Pugh
dan gibson ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Dave ??/2000 AltLd
nickdonohue ?/Jul/99 AltLd

alternating leads / moving together. descended same route by abseil - long and awkward. I would recommend much shorter descent to the south side, though this has a longer walk back

with Mike ?
IanGilbertJones 09/Aug/97 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/97 AltLd
Marti999 ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Guy ??/1993 AltLd

Simul climbed all but one pitch, then abbed the route taking twice as long as climbing it.

garywalker147 ?/Aug/92 AltLd O/S

Not sure of year. Camped on ledge just at start. First on route. Great day with perfect weather.

with Frank Steinmaier
babymoac 19/Jul/90 Lead
with Howard
Richard Weller ?/Jul/88 AltLd
with john sanders
KlaasW ??/1982 -
RichardMc 26/Jul/79 AltLd
with Angel Vila
uphillnow ?/Aug/78 AltLd

Were heading for Cassin, but as we got up from bivy the rain came in. Opted for the N Ridge and did this, from about a third of way up in dry weather. Had some lightening on the summit so headed off at speed and down the same route. Mainly very easy climbing, odd bits pitched and majority moving together.

with Al Bennett
Hidden 07/Aug/75 AltLd
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Votes cast 19
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Style of ascent
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