Stirlingshire > Auchinstarry Quarry >
 
Midas Touch*** E1 5b

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[Ewan following up the arete.., 3 kb]15m. The right hand edge of the slab, following a shallow groove before stepping onto the arete. Small gear in crack to left.

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist, Central Belt - Local Classics.

Photo: Ewan following up the arete.. © Dr Toph
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 144 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Pretty bold start, but fairly easy climbing.
Euan Todd - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Richard

route description slightly confusing, both leader and I stayed on the face of the slab between arÍte and crack, and didn't step right onto arÍte which looked even harder and bolder? gear is shockingly bad until above the crux which is at least 10m up so a serious lead. some "thank fuck" positive holds appear soon after the first good gear
Webster - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/14

olekemi - Lead rpt - 27/May/14 with Robin W

olekemi - 2nd rpt - 13/May/14 with Mark G

after abseil inspection
johannes - Lead β - 23/Mar/14

adie84 - 2014

james1978 - 2014

Dr Toph - Solo rpt - 28/Sep/13

gsevans - TR - 24/Aug/13

gurumed - Lead RP - 22/Aug/13 with Colin

colinerees - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/13 with Gordon M

colinerees - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/13

Fell on first piece of gear. Disappointing.
gurumed - Lead dog - 13/Aug/13 with Colin

Self-belay
olekemi - TR O/S - 10/Aug/13

Brendan - Lead RP - 31/Jul/13 with Robert, Del

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13

Cassidy - 2nd - 11/Jul/13 with Helen Cassidy

Brian Pollock - Lead - 10/Jul/13

stewart100 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Brian Pollock

James90 - 2nd - 07/Jul/13 with dave, Marnoch

David Stevens - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Marnoch Hamillton-Jones, James Priestly

mhamiltonj - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with James, David Stevens

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/13

totally beaut! one of the best E1s to date :)
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13

gjd - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/13 with Sam Burns

Timothy Miller - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/13

tomosb - Lead - 17/May/13 with Darren Thompson

Bold, size 0 c3 or similar very useful.
Macleod - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with ronan, carolyn

RKernan - 2nd - 07/Apr/13 with Carolyn Mills, Alasdair MacLeod

james mcclung - TR O/S - 03/Mar/13

Mossdawg - TR O/S - 03/Mar/13 with james mcclung

dougs1232 - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/12 with Alasdair Fulton

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/12

Harry Holmes - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Joanna

cat22 - 2nd rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Mike

horsefeathers - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Harry

gjd - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with KM

Koon - 2nd - 05/May/12 with Geoff

Ground fall prospects before first decent gear, but no hard moves, so E2 5a would be fairer?? Nice climbing though, best finished up the arete...
Chad123 - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/12 with Emily

timcussins - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with ghr

Dr Toph - Solo rpt - 04/Mar/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 19/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Sep/11

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Jade Littlewood

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Meg

Another belter. Small cams useful!
John 'B' Hutchinson - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Matthew Thompson

D_Wills - TR - 31/Aug/11

shugsan - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/11 with Libby

LibS - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Euan Boyd

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11

stewnew - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with brendan

had the beta on the first bit of gear
Ginger McGrath - Lead β - 22/May/11 with emily tickle, louise

Mhairi G - 2nd O/S - 03/May/11 with Patrick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/11

abbed down first to see if there was gear, only to forget and climb up past the best looking placement, D'oh.
Pat-H - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with andy

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/11

thomasaneurinsmith - 2nd - 28/Apr/11 with John Nelson

Robert93 - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11

MarcusP - Lead dog - 09/Apr/11 with Oscar, Joe

Abseiled down first to check that there were in fact gear placements in dirty looking thin crack on the left. Was happy to discover some artificial looking slots for cams. I wouldn't recommend this one unless like me, you had the use of several small cams.
R0bbie - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/11 with keith

Superb climbing!
Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Heather Thikey

kirigoss - TR O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Tim

JasonK - Lead - 11/Sep/10 with Euan Boyd

Self-belayed. 1 fall
Denpov - TR dog - 13/Aug/10

Self-belayed
Denpov - TR rpt - 13/Aug/10

BOLD!
sebrider - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Sophie

jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10

sophiecb - 2nd - 22/Jul/10 with Seb

Not bad, but Gold Rush around the corner or Gold Bug on the arete are much nicer climbs in my opinion.
Alejandro S - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with kchink

Dr Toph - Solo rpt - 09/Jul/10

Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Mina

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/10

Awesome lead, requires a 00 friend! Plenty of rest places on this route
Euan Strachan - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/10 with Jonnie

Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Jamie Sparkes

JamieSparkes - Lead β - 09/Mar/10 with Liam Ingram

rob askew - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/10 with phil jennings

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/10 with Rob Askew

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Nov/09

Euan Strachan - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/09 with Tropher, Henward

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/09 with Rich Clarke

bold
rclarke - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/09 with Dave Brigham

Hidden - TR O/S - 13/Aug/09

MonkeyDawson - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/09 with Neil Redgrave

Ally Gillies - 2nd O/S - 14/May/09 with Pete

French Erick - AltLd - 16/Apr/09 with stuart mcfarlane, andy clark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09

westaway - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Jan/09

Similar reasons as Dave - looked ok initially, then turned out to be damp and bold.
JamieSparkes - Lead dnf - 21/Jan/09 with Dave Spencer

Robert Watts - 2009

Ally Gillies - 2009

stuaart - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Mister John Nelson

Thin - needs micros, and even then not well protected.
McBirdy - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/08 with Helen Darvill

goingupintheworld - TR - 05/Sep/08 with Bill

auchtubhmor1 - Jul/08

I set off up this on the lead but then decided it would be much more sensible to use the rope gun.
decs - 2nd - 10/Jun/08 with Chad

Happy to be rope gun on this one! Not really my favourite kind of climbing - sustained small holds up a slab, but fun enough....2 stars max
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 10/Jun/08 with Sam and Duncan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/08

dougs1232 - Lead O/S - 07/May/08 with Pete Entwistle

Pete.ent - 2nd - 07/May/08 with Dougie Harvey

beegsyboy - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/08 with Reinhart

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/08

zebidee - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/07 with Kevin Croft

oliverk - 2nd - 22/May/07

Hidden - TR - 05/May/07

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/07 with Ewan

Nice route, fluffed it at the crux a little. Very thin - crux comes before any decent pro
Stewart B - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/07 with Mike, Ben, Paul

el diablo - 2007

Roch - 2nd - 30/Apr/06

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 2006

Ross Barnes - Lead - Jul/05

graemecook - TR - Jun/05

Alien cam useful for first piece of gear.
Fultonius - Lead O/S - 2005 with Ben Wear

PenJD - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/04 with Andy Edwards

French Erick - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Stewart Richardson

samwelli - Lead O/S - 02/May/04 with Gregor Smith and Richard Knak

fireman_al - Lead rpt - Jan/04 with Paul McDonald

andyinglis - Lead - 2004

dangates - Lead - 2004 with Kev Neil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/03

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/03

kevg - 2nd - 05/Apr/03 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

BRUCESTRAC - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Beardyman - Lead O/S - 2000

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 24/Apr/99 with Jenny Kerr

Hidden - 1999

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/92

innes - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1989

cam1401 - Lead - 1986

Lone Rider - Lead - 1984

don.husband - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Brendan, Ian Jones, marcfoggo

Voting
Total votes cast 76
hard E20 of 26
E21 of 26
easy E21 of 26
hard E18 of 26
E116 of 26
easy E10 of 26
hard HVS0 of 26
HVS0 of 26
easy HVS0 of 26
hard 5c0 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
hard 5b0 of 26
5b17 of 26
easy 5b5 of 26
hard 5a3 of 26
5a1 of 26
easy 5a0 of 26
3 Stars11 of 24
2 Stars8 of 24
1 Star5 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 144 (2.1%)
Lead72 of 144 (50.0%)
Followed44 of 144 (30.6%)
Toproped13 of 144 (9.0%)
Alt Leads3 of 144 (2.1%)
Unknown9 of 144 (6.2%)

'Climbed'49 of 144 (34.0%)
clean O/S63 of 144 (43.8%)
clean β3 of 144 (2.1%)
clean rpt21 of 144 (14.6%)
clean RP2 of 144 (1.4%)
dogged4 of 144 (2.8%)
dnf2 of 144 (1.4%)