Bridgend > Ogmore (Main) >
 
Exposure Explosion*** HVS 5a

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[Setting off on p2, 3 kb]84m, 7 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Setting off on p2 © Paul Bowen
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 92 logbooks, and on 64 wishlists.

Again. Brilliant evenings climbing. Enjoyable all the way. Picture perfect climbing followed by a beer in the pelican. :)
gingernick - AltLd - 02/Jul/14 with Darrell

Led odd pitches. Mind-blowing exposure pretty much constantly, feeling kind of shell-shocked now. Final pitch was easily worth E1 after doing 6 other strenuous pitches (but completely worth doing). Traverse 5m to the small but obvious vertical line and power on up. Wet look cave was plenty dry enough but the traverse in was a bit wet. Even the first easy downclimb was massively exposed. A mad mad route and one of the very best I have done at the grade
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Peter

A truly well-deserved route name. Tough-feeling, but pretty soft for HVS except for the very last pitch, which is actually tough indeed.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Ben

Worthy of the title, felt sustained all the way with the last pitch proving to be the tester!
deano - Lead - 17/Apr/14 with stacey parker

Took 8 hours! Absolutely brilliant!
Pippa - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Richard Bennett

Hidden - 2014

Turned back after second pitch as it was wet and slippery.
chris687 - AltLd dnf - 29/Nov/13 with jez brown

One to return to... Wet holds with ponds in the bigger ones. Half way across p2 and back. Looks like an awesome route...
jezb1 - AltLd - 29/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/13

Awesome. In and out of the wet cave was "interesting". Finished up Siren corner as psych was running low by then. Not a route for the faint hearted, take every Cam you own (we had 10 and could have done with more). Had previously done first 2 pitches, but all new ground from then on.
The Ivanator - AltLd rpt - 26/Aug/13 with Lee

Great climbing, crazy exposure, wet rock in the cave, and not enough cams made this rather epic. Both exciting and terrifying all at the same time.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ivan Bicknall

CLedden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Matt Woodfield

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13

Well named. Slow and steady over nearly 6 hours. Skipped the last 5a pitch and went up Siren - couldn't really see where it went. Lots of big gear needed - hexes, cams and 7+ wires. Pitches 2-4 are the best and it becomes very escapable from half way through P5 (e.g. Flash Harry, or Mordred).
AndrewP - Lead - 19/Aug/13 with FelixPeterken

Did it all in trainers; forgot proper shoes!! Amazing position, and easy climbing if you are used to hanging on your arms. Take big gear.
FelixPeterken - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Andrew Peterken

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Aug/13

seconded down climb (scarry but easy!) then climbed back out as the swell was so big the route was getting wave washed even though the tide was going out!
Webster - AltLd dnf - 04/May/13

Climbed down the first pitch got wet and climbed back out the first pitch...
TCarrick - 04/May/13

Lead pitches 1-5, reversed few meters and escaped up Mordred as it was getting dark.
bluesharper - Lead dnf - 02/Mar/13 with Rafal

JasonK - 2013

Led P2, P5, successfully avoiding the lead on all the wet and scary pitches.
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Shaun, Guy Reid

mike lawrence? - AltLd - 13/May/12 with Metal

ross brinson - AltLd dnf - 28/Oct/11

Did first two pitches and then escaped up Elephant Wall as there was only an hour of light left. Great climb , must return for the full route.
The Ivanator - AltLd dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Stewart

Wicked Route, cave was dry, all rock bomber, went the wrong way on last pitch.
nutcracker - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Mark Barret, Mark Barrett

Marky B - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with nutcracker

just as fun second time round! slightly wetter and the wet look cave slightly more annoying. still packs a punch though!
EliotStephens - AltLd rpt - 17/Apr/11 with Thomas Moore

Aaron Lines - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with frank ramsay

Will be back to lead this! super fun, bit spicy on the 2 cave pitches but otherwise bomber holds on bomber gear! well worth it.
EliotStephens - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Thomas Moore

Needless to say the exposure was explosive and that wet look cave was wet. Brilliant route similar to Heart of Darkness in Pembroke but better. Did in 5 pitches (took 2.5hours)
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with B.Brewer

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10

Except a fall on 2nd on the last pitch
hrgcb - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Virgil Scott, Joe Prinold

started traverse too high and gave up half way through our second pitch. considered going down further to try a lower line but didn't fancy it. Rock is soft and chossy - so fairly horrible to climb on unless you enjoy snapping handholds and unreliable gear. I'd recommend heading to Pembroke instead!
Alan100 - AltLd dnf - 06/Jun/10

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 26/May/10 with Wil Chivers

wilchivs - AltLd O/S - 26/May/10 with Duncan Meacher

Hidden - 17/Apr/10

Finally done all of it! Led odd no. pitches.
dave657 - AltLd rpt - 13/Apr/10 with paul b

Nice enough, felt soft
irish paul - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Dave Ripley

Hidden - 2010

Perfect day for it.
DafSWMC - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Gareth

gejones - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with DafSWMC

Reaffirming that HVS is still a pants-wetting grade. Traversing into the slimy cave on P3/4/5? was desperate, I was runout and had to scamper for the ledge. Following the next pitch was even knarlier. Truly emotional and well worth the effort.
jonnybull - AltLd O/S - Sep/09 with Virgil

We've completed it (and recovered the gear left in it on Monday)! Fantastic route, not sure whether it was the best I've done at Ogmore but certainly close.
haydng - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/09 with Dave

That bit in the guidebook about the sea state should not be taken literally. Climbed around to the leader at the P4 belay then the waves started soaking the inside of the Wet Look (P3) belay. Ended up doing a tyrolean to the P4 belay and then escaping up Flash Harry. Fantastic route, just need to recover the gear we left behind.
haydng - AltLd dnf - 06/Jul/09 with Dave

Awesome route, saves the best till last! The damp cave in the middle adds a little spice as well!
al99 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Nick Record

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/09

Mark Walter - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with Rob Dyer

Brilliant is the only way to describe this - the name sums it up perfectly - make sure the tide is in when you do it!
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with Mark Walter

Trisha Murphy - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/09 with crispin

Fiinished 1 pitch early in the dark
matt.woodfield - AltLd - 01/Mar/09

Kyuzo - 21/Feb/09 with Johnny Bull

summo - 2009

Mindblowing. Incredible. Scary. Exposed. Steve wasn't feeling the love so we reversed it from the 2nd belay. Pulled off a jug when reversing, luckily fell onto a bomber thread. Will be back to do it justice sometime. Don't underestimate this, it is a beast!
Cardi - Lead dnf - 07/Dec/08 with Steve B

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 29/Nov/08

Andrew1 - Lead - 27/Jul/08 with Andy Lewington

Top roped last pitch
Jason Gotel - AltLd - May/08 with Matt Traver

Hidden - AltLd - May/08

JGW - AltLd - May/07 with Matt Tilley

Hidden - AltLd - May/07

Duncan I - AltLd - 2007 with Chris Shorrock

Billg - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Bob Brewer

Middle 3 pitches done solo at high tide, finished up corner crack.
Jason Gotel - Solo - Jul/06 with Pippa Lansdown

c_s_hawkins - 2nd - 16/Jun/06 with Chris D

Only first 5 pitches as it got dark.
dave657 - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/06 with robo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/05

Tim W - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/05 with Darren Miller

The name says it all
darren1 - AltLd β - 22/Oct/05 with Tim Wilkinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/05

cornishben - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Edouard Vincent

Stone Muppet - 2005

chris sm - 2004 with Jon Pearson

chris wyatt - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/02

Brilliant. Did take a 25 foot fall from the last move though, twice! Its not that hard. Doh.
Mark Salter - AltLd - 11/Jul/02 with Tucker

davebrox - AltLd - Jun/02 with Jo

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 2002

VPJB - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/99

babymoac - AltLd - 13/Jun/98 with graham d

escaped after wet look cave as it was getting dark
dickypips - AltLd dnf - 1998

Hidden - AltLd - 1996

Cowflinger - AltLd - May/95

A good sea running to spice it up and sensory overload
rogerskews - AltLd - 04/May/91 with Bryn Roberts

About 3 attempts before we found a dry enough day. Awesome route.
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 1985 with Ian Owen

wynaptomos - AltLd O/S - Oct/84

nigehughes - AltLd - Apr/84 with Phil James

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 1978

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Voting
Total votes cast 62
hard E10 of 22
E10 of 22
easy E10 of 22
hard HVS3 of 22
HVS17 of 22
easy HVS2 of 22
hard VS0 of 22
VS0 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 21
5b0 of 21
easy 5b0 of 21
hard 5a2 of 21
5a3 of 21
easy 5a10 of 21
hard 4c6 of 21
4c0 of 21
easy 4c0 of 21
3 Stars18 of 19
2 Stars0 of 19
1 Star0 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....1 of 19
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 92 (1.1%)
Lead9 of 92 (9.8%)
Followed3 of 92 (3.3%)
Alt Leads68 of 92 (73.9%)
Unknown11 of 92 (12.0%)

'Climbed'35 of 92 (38.0%)
clean O/S39 of 92 (42.4%)
clean β1 of 92 (1.1%)
clean rpt5 of 92 (5.4%)
dnf12 of 92 (13.0%)