UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 30/04/2021  

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Start sitting on the obvious hold at the right end of the boulder just by the constriction. Make a long reach left to the blobby hold, then a series of hard moves across to the shelf of Panjandrum. Continue along the lip of the boulder (easy but tiring) to finish on the obvious ledge on the left.

An earlier version (Panjandrum Lip Traverse) started up Panjandrum and kept traversing lip leftwards before topping out just to the right of (and without using) the obvious flat shelf.

Steve Pack, Tom Rainbow (Conceit), Darren LeMarquand (Panjandrum Lip Traverse).

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Devon Bouldering Cover
Devon Bouldering (2024)
Rockfax
By Dave Henderson, Ben Stokes
Dartmoor Cover
Dartmoor (2017)
The Climbers' Club
By James Clapham
Guidebook correction for this climb

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Route of Interest
Anarchy Arete Right

Grade: f6B+ ***
(Lynmouth)

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