UKC

45m, 2 pitches. This tricky and exposed climb runs diagonally leftwards across the upper rock tier of North Buttress (Creag Thuaidh). It was used as an escape route by its first ascensionists who came to free Official but were driven off by midges! They made a successful return one year later.
Start as for Official on the upper terrace on the right side of a green slab and below a slanting roof.
1. 20m Climb the slab out to the left and gain a crack. Follow this to green shattered rock before moving left and climbing up past green blocks to a short clean crack going left. Move diagonally left from the crack to a ledge with blocks.
2. 25m Climb the wall above to a difficult mantelshelf and continue up a slanting crack to the right of a large overhang. Climb through overlaps, trending left to gain a vegetated groove between two prominent bulges. Belay on a good ledge just a few metres below the top. Easy scramble to the top.

S. Windrim D. Windrim 31/8/1975 31/Aug/1975.

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Route of Interest
All Along The Watchtower

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Luggala)

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