Somerset > Cheddar Gorge South >
 
Utopia** HVS 4c

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3 pitches. Now (re)cleaned and regraded. Follows the first 3 pitches of the old route. Walk off left from here to the summit of the buttress or abseil back down the route. The original fourth pitch will require major gardening if it is to be climbed again. There is a bolted belay at the top of the second pitch and a good tree with chains at the top of the third.

Ticklists: Cheddar Summer 2011, Orange Spot Cheddar.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Damp, Slimy & Cold Day. Pete led 1st. I led half of 2nd. Ab'd off because of time and misery
Jamiet297 - AltLd dnf - 29/Dec/13 with Pete Callaghan, Steve Price

cold, slimy, rockfall, slow. Have to go back and finish it.....
steveprice.exmouth - 2nd dnf - 29/Dec/13 with Jamie, Pete Callaghan

Memorable! We seemed to be the only climbers in the gorge. Lead P1 and followed Jamie up P2. I found the friction approaching the crux v poor. Gear was good immediately under the crux, and poor for my overly small cams before that. P2 was horrible: slimey and cold.
petecallaghan - AltLd dnf - 29/Dec/13

brilliant route,full of character on all 3 pitches
just one more - Lead - 10/Oct/13 with john smith

tomosb - 04/Oct/13 with Darren Thompson

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/13

first 2 pitches only
just one more - Lead dnf - 09/Nov/12 with john smith

jwhereat - 2nd dnf - 31/May/12

Led first and third pitch. First relatively straightforward - one difficult sequence coming round the small roof but you can bridge between the walls to reduce the strain. The belay ledge currently has a small tree on it, can't miss it. Third, up the chimney is easy. The move out of the chimney onto the left face was, well, interesting, especially given the rain by the time I got there, just proceed steadily and its fine, good handholds and gear placements just after the initial move. Then be prepared to fight the ivy.
Phoebus - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Steve Grigg

great climb, even with the rain. There is a snake or something in one of the large cracks towards the top of the 1st pitch, the harsh hissing noise it made gave the impression it really didn't like me being there so i would try and avoid the crack filled with snail shells and small bones if you climb it
steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Phoebus

thomb - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with James

Lead pitch one, not too bad at all! not sure if we hit upon the right belay stance but the gear was squite good although on a small ledge, larger ledge higher up but quite veggy so wouldve rathered the lower option anyway. Most of the second pitch was lovely also until the "V-groove" slimey grassy nasty bits along the only area I could see to get any gear in, just rammed it home for the last 15-20ft or so, freaked me a lil bit. Andy then did an amazing job on the last pitch, airy moves coming out of the chimney and fantastic atmospheric climbing, abseiled down in the dark. took longer than we thought.
Jughead - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/12 with Andy Macrae

Finished in the dark. 3rd pitch felt a lot like caving.
wilkinscl - 2nd O/S - Mar/12

saintlade - 2012

Climbed this in April of 2011 and the top pitch wasn't so bad it was unclimable, was probably one of the earlier people to climb it this year. Swung out right initially from the chimney, then back left on huge holds but a bit steep and then pulled into a field of stinging nettles that whilst unpleasant wasn't particularly desperate.
saintlade - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Spectacular climb with varied climbing style on all three pitches. Finished third pitch to the left (a traverse/swing from a high position within the chimney) only to clamber into a forest. Found the first pitch the most strenuous of them all.
lewiz - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Owen John

1st 2 pitches only. Strenuous climbing. In very good condition.
TerryLines - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11

Lead P1, loose boulder in crack, akward top out of roof. P2 bridge up wet crack to ab escape!!!
superdiamondgeezer - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/10

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

Leader beaten off by the vegetation/hard move combo 5m from the very top! Darn shame.
Ly-Cilph - AltLd dnf - 20/Jun/10 with Philip d-B

I lead first and third pitches. Great climb, 1st pitch tough, 3rd pitch beautiful climbing.
ollie1 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10

Fist 2 pitches only. V good. Finished up Nirvana.
Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Mark C

ian d f - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 08/Apr/10 with Ian

Ken Taylor - 2010

37degrees - AltLd - 30/Oct/09 with Ian Baily

Awesome route, go climb it so it stays that way!
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Tom Dixon

Lead most of pitch 2 (fannied out of the corner cause it was wet) and pitch 3. Absolutely awesome climbing, especially out of the chimney on pitch 3.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Dom Sellers

There's a very loose block at the top of pitch 1. I nearly pulled it off and into my face. The top out is a bit awkward due to vegetation. Some nice moves that make the effort of 'cleaning as you go" worth it.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/07 with Iain Afshar

Notes Great route. Steep sections on first two pitches (4c,4c), should really get 5a. Third pitch is up the big chimney. Its start ok, but the swing left at the top is quite hairy (possibly 5b). Top was loose muddy and vegitated - obviouslty not climbed much these days.
TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Dave Gale

Hidden - 03/Mar/07

Hidden - 03/Mar/07

Was very dirty on all pitches. Awesome route but the top out is rather hairy for HVS & quite loose.
SC - 2007 with mike kann

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/06

kitkat78 - AltLd - Oct/99 with Mike K

colin milton - AltLd - 08/Oct/94 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Marti999 - Lead O/S - Nov/92 with anthony

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/89

Hidden - Apr/84

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
benny b, Alan100, TB30, bigtimematty, morpcat, lukeh, Jeremy Crampin, andy dunn, Dave Ing, Hidden, woodenwealth, Hidden, twright180, Richard Morgan, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Chubbard, Tempest

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard E10 of 8
E10 of 8
easy E10 of 8
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS8 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
hard VS0 of 8
VS0 of 8
easy VS0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a0 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
hard 4c6 of 8
4c2 of 8
easy 4c0 of 8
hard 4b0 of 8
4b0 of 8
easy 4b0 of 8
3 Stars5 of 7
2 Stars2 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent

Lead13 of 41 (31.7%)
Followed5 of 41 (12.2%)
Alt Leads16 of 41 (39.0%)
Unknown7 of 41 (17.1%)

'Climbed'14 of 41 (34.1%)
clean O/S21 of 41 (51.2%)
dnf6 of 41 (14.6%)