3 pitches. Now (re)cleaned and regraded. Follows the first 3 pitches of the old route. Walk off left from here to the summit of the buttress or abseil back down the route. The original fourth pitch will require major gardening if it is to be climbed again. There is a bolted belay at the top of the second pitch and a good tree with chains at the top of the third.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Cheddar.

beardy mike ?/Sep Lead rpt

Fairly clean considering a summer of neglect. Had to fight nettles on the ledge at the top of pitch 2. The ivy cornice is still in fine fettle, so I took the liberty of once I'd managed to dice my way up it, retieing the old rope abseil point so it can be clipped from half way up the ivy. There is a wire strop in place for the belay/abseil, so figured I might as well... eventually somebody will have an accident because of it...

with Ian Savage
Hidden 16/Jun Lead
Paul Baller 07/Mar Lead O/S

Great route. Three pitches all with lots of interest.

with matt stevens
Stuart William 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

P1&3 me, P2 Martin. Really good fun. Not as damp, loose, overgrown, or scary as I was expecting. Hard work but interesting all the way with a little pinch of adventure. Fantastic view from the second belay.

with Martin
Deary65 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome route! A lot of vegetation. 2nd pitch the cleanest. Bit awkward in chimney on first pitch. Chimney above cave is great to feel exposed on.

with Josh
josh baldwin 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

such a good climb

martinlevya82 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Jamiet297 29/Dec/13 AltLd dnf

Damp, Slimy & Cold Day. Pete led 1st. I led half of 2nd. Ab'd off because of time and misery

steveprice.exmouth 29/Dec/13 2nd dnf

cold, slimy, rockfall, slow. Have to go back and finish it.....

with Jamie, Pete Callaghan
petecallaghan 29/Dec/13 AltLd dnf

Memorable! We seemed to be the only climbers in the gorge. Lead P1 and followed Jamie up P2. I found the friction approaching the crux v poor. Gear was good immediately under the crux, and poor for my overly small cams before that. P2 was horrible: slimey and cold.

just one more 10/Oct/13 Lead

brilliant route,full of character on all 3 pitches

with john smith
tomosb 04/Oct/13 -
with Darren Thompson
Hidden 25/Jun/13 2nd
just one more 09/Nov/12 Lead dnf

first 2 pitches only

with john smith
jwhereat 31/May/12 2nd dnf
BenFitzG 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led first and third pitch. First relatively straightforward - one difficult sequence coming round the small roof but you can bridge between the walls to reduce the strain. The belay ledge currently has a small tree on it, can't miss it. Third, up the chimney is easy. The move out of the chimney onto the left face was, well, interesting, especially given the rain by the time I got there, just proceed steadily and its fine, good handholds and gear placements just after the initial move. Then be prepared to fight the ivy.

with Steve Grigg
steve-grigg 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

great climb, even with the rain. There is a snake or something in one of the large cracks towards the top of the 1st pitch, the harsh hissing noise it made gave the impression it really didn't like me being there so i would try and avoid the crack filled with snail shells and small bones if you climb it

with Phoebus
thomb 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with James
Jughead 22/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one, not too bad at all! not sure if we hit upon the right belay stance but the gear was squite good although on a small ledge, larger ledge higher up but quite veggy so wouldve rathered the lower option anyway. Most of the second pitch was lovely also until the "V-groove" slimey grassy nasty bits along the only area I could see to get any gear in, just rammed it home for the last 15-20ft or so, freaked me a lil bit. Andy then did an amazing job on the last pitch, airy moves coming out of the chimney and fantastic atmospheric climbing, abseiled down in the dark. took longer than we thought.

with Andy Macrae
wilkinscl ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Finished in the dark. 3rd pitch felt a lot like caving.

saintlade ??/2012 -
saintlade ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Climbed this in April of 2011 and the top pitch wasn't so bad it was unclimable, was probably one of the earlier people to climb it this year. Swung out right initially from the chimney, then back left on huge holds but a bit steep and then pulled into a field of stinging nettles that whilst unpleasant wasn't particularly desperate.

lewiz 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Spectacular climb with varied climbing style on all three pitches. Finished third pitch to the left (a traverse/swing from a high position within the chimney) only to clamber into a forest. Found the first pitch the most strenuous of them all.

with Owen John
TerryLines 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

1st 2 pitches only. Strenuous climbing. In very good condition.

superdiamondgeezer 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Lead P1, loose boulder in crack, akward top out of roof. P2 bridge up wet crack to ab escape!!!

dan gibson 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tobydunford 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ly-Cilph 20/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

Leader beaten off by the vegetation/hard move combo 5m from the very top! Darn shame.

ollie1 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

I lead first and third pitches. Great climb, 1st pitch tough, 3rd pitch beautiful climbing.

Chubbard 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Fist 2 pitches only. V good. Finished up Nirvana.

with Mark C
ian d f 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 08/Apr/10 2nd
with Ian
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
37degrees 30/Oct/09 AltLd
with Ian Baily
Somerset swede basher 26/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, go climb it so it stays that way!

with Tom Dixon
thomasadixon 26/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Lead most of pitch 2 (fannied out of the corner cause it was wet) and pitch 3. Absolutely awesome climbing, especially out of the chimney on pitch 3.

with Dom Sellers
maresia 10/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

There's a very loose block at the top of pitch 1. I nearly pulled it off and into my face. The top out is a bit awkward due to vegetation. Some nice moves that make the effort of 'cleaning as you go" worth it.

TimPerkin 07/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Notes Great route. Steep sections on first two pitches (4c,4c), should really get 5a. Third pitch is up the big chimney. Its start ok, but the swing left at the top is quite hairy (possibly 5b). Top was loose muddy and vegitated - obviouslty not climbed much these days.

with Dave Gale
Hidden 03/Mar/07 -
Hidden 03/Mar/07 -
SC ??/2007 -

Was very dirty on all pitches. Awesome route but the top out is rather hairy for HVS & quite loose.

Hidden ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
kitkat78 ?/Oct/99 AltLd
with Mike K
colin milton 08/Oct/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Marti999 ?/Nov/92 Lead O/S
with anthony
Hidden 10/Dec/89 AltLd O/S
Nevil ?/Apr/84 -

Do not know year

with Jon
Chris Terrey ?/Mar/80 2nd
with Mike Morrison
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
martinov, Hidden, Alan100, TB30, morpcat, lukeh, Jeremy Crampin, andy dunn, Dave Ing, Hidden, woodenwealth, Hidden, twright180, Richard Morgan, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Chubbard, Tempest
High E1
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High 4c
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High 4b
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Alt Leads
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