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Scar*** E2 5c

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[Dan Matthewman pleasantly scared on Scar, E2, Baildon Bank, 2 kb]Climb the thin finger crack until it peters out at a horizontal break. Move up onto the wall above via finger pockets to a PR. Finish up the flake and sandy headwall to the right.

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

Photo: Dan Matthewman pleasantly scared on Scar, E2, Baildon Bank © davepwsmith
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 141 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Finally got up on the lead with 3 rope rests. Put a number 4 cam behind the thick flake at the start of the last few moves. Brilliant feeling topping out
pedrosanpb - Lead dog - 30/Jun/14 with Andrew Lodge

More rope rests than you can shake a stick at but still a brilliant climb and a superb lead, well done Pete
Andrew Lodge - 2nd - 30/Jun/14 with Pete

Fell once on top rope. Looking forward to leading at some point.
Kieran_John - TR dog - 26/Jun/14

Left my big gear a the bottom to save weight then couldn't get anything good behind the big flake, doh! Decided I wasn't happy with my gear at that point, didn't want to trust the peg, so decided discretion was the better part of valour as I didn't know what the last few holds were like and abandoned, abbing gently off the peg and clearing the several hundred wires I'd laced the crack with. Bit gutted but better luck next time...
pedrosanpb - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/14 with Cycling Steve

Shunted it twice, again.
PaulTanton - TR - 15/May/14

Again, fell off at the top of the crack, but have nailed the moves finally, so next time it's a clean lead I am after. :)
ebf - Lead dog - 14/May/14 with Andy Howarth

Twice. Good exercise
PaulTanton - TR rpt - 05/May/14

great climb!!
robman - Lead O/S - 02/May/14

pastep - Lead - 02/Feb/14 with ebf

Good lead by Paul.
ebf - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Paul Stephenson

Nez - 2014

John Brayshaw - 2nd dog - 30/Nov/13 with Dan

A hunt for dry rock
PaulTanton - TR rpt - 26/Oct/13 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

cobweb - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/13 with Roger Waterworth

lanky and weak - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Olly Parkinson

CragDog - Lead β - 08/May/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/May/13

Andrew Wilson - 2nd O/S - 01/May/13 with jon stewart

Finally led this. Fantastic route with solid gear where you need it. Very deserving of the grade and the stars. The bolt remains good, not that I tested it, but I did inspect on the way past.
ebf - Lead dog - 16/Apr/13 with Will Poulter

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/13

pastep - Lead - 17/Feb/13 with Will242

Hidden - 2nd rpt - Dec/12

Kasia Rzepka - TR - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/12

Neil led
Marq - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Mark Blomfield, Neil Redgrave (LMC)

minT(HUN) - Lead - Jul/12 with woody

kitch22 - TR rpt - 22/May/12 with John Proctor, Adam Collinge

PaulHermes - Lead - 26/Feb/12 with Tibor

pastep - Lead - 26/Feb/12 with Tibor

Nik Jennings - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/12 with Andy

uptown - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/12 with Nik Jennings

Sean_J - 2012

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

minT(HUN) - AltLd - 2012 with PaulHermes

ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11 with Ben

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/11 with Halla, Matt_L_Robinson

Took a fall moving up from the break. Gutted about it. Will go clean next time!
RyanC - Lead dog - 04/Sep/11 with Nick Valente

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Sep/11

RyanC - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Nick Valente

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/11

One rest at break
Peter Smith - Lead dog - 27/Jul/11 with Mick Leather

Peter Smith - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/11 with Mick Leather

Peter Smith - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/11 with Mick Leather

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/11

climbed clean today with harry
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 02/Apr/11 with Harry Thorpe, Cocky, Mike Gadd

Lead after seconding Laurence on it a year ago, first clean E2 though!
Harry Thorpe - Lead RP - 02/Apr/11 with Laurence Everitt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11

Haighy - TR - 03/Mar/11 with Will Wilson

Jack00 - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/11 with John Walsh

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Anna

MeMeMe - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/10 with Andy

andy mcc - 2nd - 08/Jul/10 with Robin Nicholson

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/10

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 29/May/10 with Kieran Livett

kieranlivett - 2nd O/S - 28/May/10 with james.peter

The crux had to be dogged. Not used to lay backing cracks yet. A very pumpy route!
monkeyman79 - Lead dog - 09/May/10 with David Edmondson, Mark Pitt

Hidden - TR O/S - 09/May/10

adi bryant - 2nd - 04/May/10 with Lee

Nice Climb Knackered by the time i reached the top of the crack so had to rest :(
leegodson1989 - Lead dog - 04/May/10 with Adi

pastep - Lead - 03/May/10 with ebf

ebf - 2nd dog - 03/May/10 with Paul Stephenson

Rowansb - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10

adam coxsell - 2nd - 27/Mar/10 with laurence

Really good, one to lead
Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Laurence Everitt

found the bottom crack ok, but got well pumped on the top section.
roberto18 - Lead - 10/Mar/10 with Conor Cussell

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 08/Mar/10

Chuffed to get this clean as it was my first attempt at an E2 onsight - although I used the 'chicken-clip' on the upper wall, which probably knocks it down to E1. Brilliant, varied climbing from start to finish. The crux move is much softened for those with skinny fingers.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Andy B

Best route of the day, brilliant. Peg not needed though. Tricky sequence before the break which could catch you out. E1+?
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Ewan

Sean_J - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Dan

Dave Lacey - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/09 with jak.kelly


t_stork - 2nd - 07/Apr/09 with Ralph

Hidden - TR dog - 06/Dec/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Mar/08

joe larner - TR rpt - 02/Feb/08 with Bruce

joe larner - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/07

Well it's all there as they say. Pretty taxing mentally however. Includes dodgy 'chicken clip' on a bolt if you can reach it!!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/07

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Holly & Corky

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/07

1st proper i.e not a chop route E2.. felt fine after the crack which is a one move wonder.. greasy conditions but top went well.. clipped peg, felt right to do that when i was next to it, after i did the move i didn't feel i needed it but that's life i guess! Had plenty of beta from ali. very pleased :o)
Mattyk - Lead β - 23/May/07 with Ali K

furry - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/07 with Alex Young

It was ugly but got to the top. Very happy.
alexyoung - 2nd dog - 11/Apr/07 with Steve

joe larner - 2nd - Feb/07

davetigger - 2007

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2007

did direct finish,been on other finish before
Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2007 with wayne

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/06 with Andy

reg_measures - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/06 with Richard Sharpe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/06

Date is a guess
WB - Lead O/S - May/06 with Jim

reg_measures - 2nd rpt - 02/Jan/06 with Ralph

King Rat - 2nd rpt - 2006 with A

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 18/Dec/05 with Torran Elson

shark - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/05 with Bruce Woodley

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05 with John

Peter Smith - Lead RP - 2005 with Nigel smith

Matt Rowat - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/04 with owen

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Mar/04

Hidden - 2004

Trobbo - 2nd - 30/Mar/03 with fiend

Great little climb, nice moves and well-enough protected with nothing nasty to hit if you fall.
Andy S - Lead dog - Jul/01 with Adam

Andy S - 2nd O/S - Jun/01 with Adam

akhughes - Lead - May/01

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2001 with gaz

Hidden - Lead - 2001

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/00 with Chris J

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 2000 with Simon D

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/99 with John Hardiman

climberguy - Lead O/S - 1999

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 26/Jul/98 with Robin

a really good climb, technical start, enjoyable finish
andrew300169 - Lead O/S - Aug/97 with Judy

madagascar - 2nd dog - Aug/97 with andrew300169

Dave Musgrove - Lead - May/97 with Chris Wilson, Andy Wild

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96 with Vicky Munn

rob.grafton - Lead - 18/Jul/95 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/May/95 with jon

rob.grafton - 2nd - 29/Mar/95 with Bruce

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1994 with donny

rob.grafton - Lead - 03/Aug/93 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/93

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/92 with Larry Parkes

neilh - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/92 with mark griffiths

rob.grafton - 2nd - 06/May/91 with Bruce

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1991 with derek johnson

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/90

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 13/May/90 with Chris wiles

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 22/May/86 with Mark Gray

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 09/Apr/83 with Andy Wild

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/83

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
vix, Graham Booth, Hidden, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden, RyanC, Haighy, sugy, Hidden, SteveM, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard E30 of 30
E30 of 30
easy E30 of 30
hard E23 of 30
E218 of 30
easy E26 of 30
hard E13 of 30
E10 of 30
easy E10 of 30
hard 6a0 of 31
6a0 of 31
easy 6a2 of 31
hard 5c2 of 31
5c20 of 31
easy 5c4 of 31
hard 5b2 of 31
5b1 of 31
easy 5b0 of 31
3 Stars23 of 31
2 Stars7 of 31
1 Star1 of 31
0 Stars0 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
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Style of ascent

Lead88 of 141 (62.4%)
Followed36 of 141 (25.5%)
Toproped11 of 141 (7.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 141 (0.7%)
Unknown5 of 141 (3.5%)

'Climbed'35 of 141 (24.8%)
clean O/S59 of 141 (41.8%)
clean β3 of 141 (2.1%)
clean rpt15 of 141 (10.6%)
clean RP3 of 141 (2.1%)
dogged21 of 141 (14.9%)
dnf5 of 141 (3.5%)