Rockfax Description
The first (and still the only) route on the cliff featuring some fine crack climbing in its upper reaches.
1) N4+, 35m. Scramble up the narrow ledge system to reach the ramp system which begins on the pillar's right-hand side. Climb the ramp for 20m, then continue past a big block on the left to a stance on a tiny ledge.
2) N5-, 30m. Climb a crack above the belay then up a left-facing groove, and through a small overhang to a large grassy ledge.
3) N6, 45m. Climb the wall to the base of a right-facing groove above. Head up this for 5m, then continue straight up the face above to reach the next corner. Climb up this for 7m then make an unprotected traverse out right to the next belay.
4) N6, 40m. After a delicate start up a shallow groove, traverse right 5m to a grassy groove. Climb this past a bulge to a right-leaning jamming crack which leads to a stance.
5) N6, 35m. Ascend the impressive right-facing corner above the stance. After a 'wicked off-width' at the top of the pitch, belay on another good ledge on the right.
6) N4, 45m. From the right end of the ledge, climb a chimney leading to easier ground. Belay at the end of the steep section. © Rockfax

FA. Arild Meyer, Odd-Roar Wiik 8.5.1994 08/May/1994.

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