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Chameleon*** XS 6a/b

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[Thirsty after the whitestone traverse, 1 kb]E2 5c A1 A 17-pitch 283m girdle traverse! 4b,5a,4c,4c,4b,4c,4b,4a,4a,-,5a,A1,5c,4b,4c,4c,4b FFA 30th June 2009 by Luke Hunt and Franco Cookson, HXS 6a/b Climbed left to right, finishing up Jurassic Scarp.

Ticklists: The Moorland Challenge.

Photo: Thirsty after the whitestone traverse © Franco Cookson OLD
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

I never thought I'd be logging the first free ascent of Whitestone. So often I would look down and think of how risking a jump into the trees and boulders is probably safer than continuing. Who ever came up with the idea of simul-climbing the last ten pitches was insane as we might as well have soloed it. Finishing up Jurassic Scarp nearly finished me. Excellent effort by Luke on the main pitch. Get on it!
Franco Cookson OLD - AltLd - 30/Jun/09 with Luke Hunt

FFA of the entire traverse. left to right. Crux is the old aid pitch. Finished up jurassic scrap, which seems the most logical as it is the final route on the main cliff of note. Grade wise, the old aid pitch goes free at hard 6a/ easy 6b. This and much of the route is protected by placed in the 70s, some of which seem ok, others are not. Propose a grade change in light of this to HXS 6a/b
lukehunt - AltLd - 30/Jun/09 with francocookson

Franco Cookson - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Luke Hunt

Climbed free from the Nightwatch to Last Post, removing the A1 pitch with a vertical abseil and lower traverse into the Black Mamba Cave. After crossing the Blitzkerig slab, we downclimbed a meter and did a wild hand traverse accross the overhanging wall into Clutcher. Got stopped from completing the last easy pitchs due to the approaching darkness!
lukehunt - Lead β - 22/Dec/08 with francocookson

WOW!! amazing climbing (in more ways than one) and the first route i've ever been relieved to return to the ground! (well actually i felt similar on post mortem) but similarly to post mortem i feel that although failing, the 9 hours we took getting to the aid line was well spend, nerve racking and a great deal was learned - amazing climbing, (especially the slab) and some hilarious items of gear (Gas Pipe) en route. We went off course at one point however, resulting in a 5b mantelshelf with a potential for a 'huge whipper' into a chasm - this was the one part i didn't enjoy!
Dave Warburton - AltLd dnf - 24/Jul/08 with Franco Cookson

Insaaaannnnnneeee. The traverse across the Night watch wall was extremly good, but pumpy-recomended. Then a few more chossy pitches round the corners (consistant 4c/5a/5b climbing) led to a good 4b crack and then a brilliant slab and exposed peg belay. Then a couple more scrambly pitches led to an awesome abseil swinging onto a ledge. From this i climbed, perhaps the traverse of a lifetime. Teetering along a tiny foot ledge, my hands on unbelievably crumbley rock. I managed to get to a large loose flake. A mad rock over led to the belay for the Aid pitch, but by this time dave had no wish to continue and it gave me a good aexcuse to ab off. I later prussiced to get the gear out- a crazy experience as dangerous as the climbing. All the pitches were done completely onsight as it was daves first route at Whitestone! and i had only done Nightwatch. This line will go free! Whether Dave will give it another go I am not sure. We were also severly Dehydrated after not drinking for 9 hours in the boiling sun. I climbed an extra 40 metres to retrieve a dropped belay plate, when the mental fatigue kicked in. Comes recommended, but E3, even without the aid! I'd say 4b,5a,4c,4c,5b,5a,4a,4b,4b,-,5b, then 6a/b? video here: http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.com/2008/07/blog-post.html
Franco Cookson OLD - AltLd dnf - 24/Jul/08 with David Warburton

Managed to get close to black mamba, had to retreat after we decovered the rock quailty was to poor lack of soild runners (rusted/fallen out pegs)the pitches we did completed were every good well worth the effort, but the idea of 5c climbing on lose rock scared us both. the finnal flake i belayed on started to break away, this is with no weight on it!
IanJackson - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/06 with Luke Hunt

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
David Stevens, Sam Marks, Dr Caterpillar, IanJackson, rob askew

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