The superb crackline provides an irresistable jamming testpiece. Rumours of fallen blocks and increased grades can safely be ignored - this is a bog standard HVS 5a crack [moderator's note - this is very much a minority opinion!]. Gain the niche and squirm out of it into the crack. Jam joyously up this to jugs and glory.

Ticklists: NYMoors Classics.

Keith Swainson 03/Oct Lead G/U

Really good route (as long as you're comfortable jamming) failed to second 10 years ago, all the hard work felt ok today onsite though. Like a dirty, Millstone, classic!

with Georgie
Hidden 28/Jun Lead β
Hidden 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead dog
peterhubbard 12/Aug/14 2nd
with Conrad
Matthew Ferrier 23/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Bit easier this time.

Calum Wadsworth 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice bit of jamming. Crack got a little slimy at one point though.

with Matt F
freemanTom 27/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Dampness and lack of biggish cams led to retreat. Failure however doesn't rub out my insight last year.

with New Chris cmc
Hidden 22/May/13 2nd
Ste Ridd 22/May/13 2nd
mikecollins 22/May/13 Lead dog
Jimmy1976 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Crux is moving feet up out of the pea pod. Great jams to the top.

with Simon
Simonj 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with jim
Sam Marks 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S


Matthew Ferrier 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Equally pumpy as it is classic, the final crack really taught me how to hand jam. . .

phleppy 03/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Spat out like a load of flem!

freemanTom 28/Aug/12 Lead

Utterely, utterly superb, one of the best routes in the county let alone the moors. Only just got it clean.

with Ben Pearce
markfairbank 04/May/11 Lead dog

Brutal... the route won at a canter! One day i'll learn how to jam!

with Ray Sharples
smithjmw46 28/Apr/11 Lead dog

Glad to have cams otherwise very unprotected without the friends. good moves but sustained after early rest. Need to improve endurance to get the flash.

padski ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Matt Bill Platypus 11/May/09 2nd dnf
with Fiend
Ram MkiV 04/May/09 Lead O/S
with stead
beaumap ??/2009 Lead
with various
Dave Warburton 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

First climb in nearly 3 weeks. Getting out the niche was quite awkward, then horizontal crack is a OK rest, which allows you to jam up the final crack to the nice pockets. Great line, shame theres only a view at the very top! 5b? (Note, there are no rumours about 'fallen blocks', i've spoken to the chap that levered the unsafe block out, and when in place it was easier!)

Franco Cookson OLD 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S


Will Smith 22/Jul/08 2nd dog

A great line, but absolutely brutal. From exiting the niche to the top is one long nightmare of pulling on dubious jams with little for your feet and never a comfortable rest. I would need to be a lot stronger to get up this cleanly.

with Rob
lithos 22/Jul/08 Lead dog

spanked - solid 5b, slippery and hard. Strenuous but safe as house and awkward. Slumped onto bottom cam, getting out of the niche is well hard.

Andy Graham ??/2008 2nd dog
with Steve Anderson
Hidden ??/2008 -
gilldando 15/Sep/07 2nd dnf

still can't get past half way... goddamm

with Mike
IanJackson 01/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
jonka ?/Aug/07 Lead
with sean
gilldando 11/Mar/07 TR dnf

got spat out by the big crack 4 times, I'll get it next time... Where's the chockstone gone!!

with Mike
mikekeswick 03/Sep/06 TR RP
with leif
chrishedgehog 02/Sep/05 Lead O/S

"Contender for best route in the area"? I can believe it!

with Jen Dargue
snowy owl ?/Sep/05 2nd
Steve Crowe ?/Jan/00 Lead O/S
Climbster 13/Oct/99 Lead β
Neil R 11/Jul/91 Lead
with Sharon
Rich Kirby ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Roget, swaino777, B-bop, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set