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Gehenna** HVS 5a

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[Andrew Webb on Gehenna, Beacon Scar. 1972., 3 kb]The superb crackline provides an irresistable jamming testpiece. Rumours of fallen blocks and increased grades can safely be ignored - this is a bog standard HVS 5a crack [moderator's note - this is very much a minority opinion!]. Gain the niche and squirm out of it into the crack. Jam joyously up this to jugs and glory.

Ticklists: NYMoors Classics.

Photo: Andrew Webb on Gehenna, Beacon Scar. 1972. © Tony Marr
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 37 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Aug/14

Bit easier this time.
Matthew Ferrier - 2nd rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Calum Wadsworth

Nice bit of jamming. Crack got a little slimy at one point though.
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Matt F

Dampness and lack of biggish cams led to retreat. Failure however doesn't rub out my insight last year.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/13 with New Chris cmc

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/13

moose ridd - 2nd - 22/May/13

mikecollins - Lead dog - 22/May/13 with moose ridd, manmike

Crux is moving feet up out of the pea pod. Great jams to the top.
Jimmy1976 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Simon

Simonj - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with jim

Cracking!
Sam Marks - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with phleppy, Matthew Ferrier, Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson

Equally pumpy as it is classic, the final crack really taught me how to hand jam. . .
Matthew Ferrier - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Dan Lane, Phleppy, Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton, Sam Marks

Spat out like a load of flem!
phleppy - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/12 with Matthew Ferrier

Utterely, utterly superb, one of the best routes in the county let alone the moors. Only just got it clean.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - 28/Aug/12 with Ben Pearce

Brutal... the route won at a canter! One day i'll learn how to jam!
markfairbank - Lead dog - 04/May/11 with Ray Sharples

Glad to have cams otherwise very unprotected without the friends. good moves but sustained after early rest. Need to improve endurance to get the flash.
smithjmw46 - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11

padski - Lead O/S - May/10

Matt Bill Platypus - 2nd dnf - 11/May/09 with Fiend

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 04/May/09 with stead

beaumap - Lead - 2009 with various

First climb in nearly 3 weeks. Getting out the niche was quite awkward, then horizontal crack is a OK rest, which allows you to jam up the final crack to the nice pockets. Great line, shame theres only a view at the very top! 5b? (Note, there are no rumours about 'fallen blocks', i've spoken to the chap that levered the unsafe block out, and when in place it was easier!)
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Franco Cookson

class!
Franco Cookson OLD - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with David Warburton

A great line, but absolutely brutal. From exiting the niche to the top is one long nightmare of pulling on dubious jams with little for your feet and never a comfortable rest. I would need to be a lot stronger to get up this cleanly.
Will Smith - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/08 with Rob

spanked - solid 5b, slippery and hard. Strenuous but safe as house and awkward. Slumped onto bottom cam, getting out of the niche is well hard.
lithos - Lead dog - 22/Jul/08

Andy Graham - 2nd dog - 2008 with Steve Anderson

Franco Cookson - 2008 with Dave Warburton

still can't get past half way... goddamm
gilldando - 2nd dnf - 15/Sep/07 with Mike

IanJackson - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Big Ian

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with sean

got spat out by the big crack 4 times, I'll get it next time... Where's the chockstone gone!!
gilldando - TR dnf - 11/Mar/07 with Mike

mikekeswick - TR RP - 03/Sep/06 with leif

"Contender for best route in the area"? I can believe it!
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/05 with Jen Dargue

snowy owl - 2nd - Sep/05 with Chris Harrison

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - Jan/00

Climbster - Lead β - 13/Oct/99

Neil R - Lead - 11/Jul/91 with Sharon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Roget, swaino777, ritid, B-bop, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 51
hard E10 of 17
E10 of 17
easy E18 of 17
hard HVS3 of 17
HVS5 of 17
easy HVS1 of 17
hard VS0 of 17
VS0 of 17
easy VS0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 17
5b0 of 17
easy 5b11 of 17
hard 5a0 of 17
5a6 of 17
easy 5a0 of 17
hard 4c0 of 17
4c0 of 17
easy 4c0 of 17
3 Stars11 of 17
2 Stars6 of 17
1 Star0 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Lead24 of 37 (64.9%)
Followed10 of 37 (27.0%)
Toproped2 of 37 (5.4%)
Unknown1 of 37 (2.7%)

'Climbed'8 of 37 (21.6%)
clean O/S14 of 37 (37.8%)
clean β1 of 37 (2.7%)
clean rpt1 of 37 (2.7%)
clean RP1 of 37 (2.7%)
dogged7 of 37 (18.9%)
dnf5 of 37 (13.5%)