Gehenna** HVS 5a
[The NYM "classic" HVS "5a" crack Gehenna., 3 kb]The superb crackline provides an irresistable jamming testpiece. Rumours of fallen blocks and increased grades can safely be ignored - this is a bog standard HVS 5a crack [moderator's note - this is very much a minority opinion!]. Gain the niche and squirm out of it into the crack. Jam joyously up this to jugs and glory.

Ticklists: NYMoors Classics.

Photo: The NYM "classic" HVS "5a" crack Gehenna. © MTL
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This climb is in 40 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Really good route (as long as you're comfortable jamming) failed to second 10 years ago, all the hard work felt ok today onsite though. Like a dirty, Millstone, classic!
Keith Swainson - Lead G/U - 03/Oct/15 with Georgie

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Aug/14

peterhubbard - 2nd - 12/Aug/14 with Conrad

Bit easier this time.
Matthew Ferrier - 2nd rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Calum Wadsworth

Nice bit of jamming. Crack got a little slimy at one point though.
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Matt F

Dampness and lack of biggish cams led to retreat. Failure however doesn't rub out my insight last year.
freemanTom - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/13 with New Chris cmc

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/13

Ste Ridd - 2nd - 22/May/13

mikecollins - Lead dog - 22/May/13 with moose ridd, manmike

Crux is moving feet up out of the pea pod. Great jams to the top.
Jimmy1976 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Simon

Simonj - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with jim

Sam Marks - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with phleppy, Matthew Ferrier, Dave Warburton, Franco Cookson

Equally pumpy as it is classic, the final crack really taught me how to hand jam. . .
Matthew Ferrier - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Dan Lane, Phleppy, Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton, Sam Marks

Spat out like a load of flem!
phleppy - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/12 with Matthew Ferrier

Utterely, utterly superb, one of the best routes in the county let alone the moors. Only just got it clean.
freemanTom - Lead - 28/Aug/12 with Ben Pearce

Brutal... the route won at a canter! One day i'll learn how to jam!
markfairbank - Lead dog - 04/May/11 with Ray Sharples

Glad to have cams otherwise very unprotected without the friends. good moves but sustained after early rest. Need to improve endurance to get the flash.
smithjmw46 - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11

padski - Lead O/S - May/10

Matt Bill Platypus - 2nd dnf - 11/May/09 with Fiend

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 04/May/09 with stead

beaumap - Lead - 2009 with various

First climb in nearly 3 weeks. Getting out the niche was quite awkward, then horizontal crack is a OK rest, which allows you to jam up the final crack to the nice pockets. Great line, shame theres only a view at the very top! 5b? (Note, there are no rumours about 'fallen blocks', i've spoken to the chap that levered the unsafe block out, and when in place it was easier!)
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Franco Cookson

Franco Cookson OLD - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with David Warburton

A great line, but absolutely brutal. From exiting the niche to the top is one long nightmare of pulling on dubious jams with little for your feet and never a comfortable rest. I would need to be a lot stronger to get up this cleanly.
Will Smith - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/08 with Rob

spanked - solid 5b, slippery and hard. Strenuous but safe as house and awkward. Slumped onto bottom cam, getting out of the niche is well hard.
lithos - Lead dog - 22/Jul/08

Andy Graham - 2nd dog - 2008 with Steve Anderson

Hidden - 2008

still can't get past half way... goddamm
gilldando - 2nd dnf - 15/Sep/07 with Mike

IanJackson - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Big Ian

jonka - Lead - Aug/07 with sean

got spat out by the big crack 4 times, I'll get it next time... Where's the chockstone gone!!
gilldando - TR dnf - 11/Mar/07 with Mike

mikekeswick - TR RP - 03/Sep/06 with leif

"Contender for best route in the area"? I can believe it!
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/05 with Jen Dargue

snowy owl - 2nd - Sep/05 with Chris Harrison

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - Jan/00

Climbster - Lead β - 13/Oct/99

Neil R - Lead - 11/Jul/91 with Sharon

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 1986 with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Roget, swaino777, B-bop

Total votes cast 54
hard E10 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E18 of 18
hard HVS4 of 18
HVS5 of 18
easy HVS1 of 18
hard VS0 of 18
VS0 of 18
easy VS0 of 18
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b11 of 18
hard 5a1 of 18
5a6 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
hard 4c0 of 18
4c0 of 18
easy 4c0 of 18
3 Stars12 of 18
2 Stars6 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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