250m, 9 pitches.
In the middle of the face an obvious triangular pinnacle, with overhangs above leads to the summit. A line of cracks leads up to the top of the pinnacle, continue direct to the top, passing to the left of the overhangs.
1. 20m. Scramble/climb up loose vegetated terrain until a belay point is reached below a vegetated wide stepped crack with a big flake above and a wide corner/crack to the right.
2. 20m. E2 5c. From the belay move right a few meters, make delicate moves directly up towards a clean short crack (with a line of small flakes leading diagonally rightwards). Climb the strenuous short crack to a small ledge. Belay here
3. 35m. E3 6a. Climb direct up from the belay to the big flake, then move right into the corner/groove which leads into a crack higher up. A hanging belay is taken below a small roof.
4. 30m. E2 5c. Climb the steep face to the left of the belay for a few meters until difficulties ease and a grassy ledge is reached. Bridge up to a wide crack directly above. Short but hard moves gain a ledge with a decent belay on the left off solid spikes.
5. 30m. HVS 5b. Move up the obvious direct crack for 6m or so. The direct line to the top of the pinnacle is along a large suspect flake. Instead traverse left and follow the left edge of the pinnacle to the top.
6: 20m. E3 5c/6a. To the right of the belay a thin crack leads to good holds. Traverse right to some redder rock (poor quality). Continue up and diagonally right until stood on top of loose blocks. Traverse left cautiously and continue past a friable looking thread to a good belay above some overhangs.
7. 25m. E4 6a. Start on delicate moves to a break and traverse right to below a corner. Another tricky move gains the corner. Trend right and back left into the corner a few meters higher, finally reaching good holds and gear placements and an easy step left on to the face from under the overhang. Contine up to a hanging belay on the left side of the overhang.
8. 30m. E1 5a. Follow the crack trending left for a few meters to reach a wide crack. Follow the crack, which eases after a steep start, to a large sloping ledge and belay. The orange rock on this pitch is extremely crumbly, so take care.
9. 40m. S 4b. Climb the easy angled slabs at the back of the ledge. Move back left 8 meters to a solid wall with good holds. Climb up 6 meters and move left to a good ledge. Scramble the last easy cracks to the summit and cairn.
1. 20m. Scramble/climb up loose vegetated terrain until a belay point is reached below a vegetated wide stepped crack with a big flake above and a wide corner/crack to the right.
2. 20m. E2 5c. From the belay move right a few meters, make delicate moves directly up towards a clean short crack (with a line of small flakes leading diagonally rightwards). Climb the strenuous short crack to a small ledge. Belay here
3. 35m. E3 6a. Climb direct up from the belay to the big flake, then move right into the corner/groove which leads into a crack higher up. A hanging belay is taken below a small roof.
4. 30m. E2 5c. Climb the steep face to the left of the belay for a few meters until difficulties ease and a grassy ledge is reached. Bridge up to a wide crack directly above. Short but hard moves gain a ledge with a decent belay on the left off solid spikes.
5. 30m. HVS 5b. Move up the obvious direct crack for 6m or so. The direct line to the top of the pinnacle is along a large suspect flake. Instead traverse left and follow the left edge of the pinnacle to the top.
6: 20m. E3 5c/6a. To the right of the belay a thin crack leads to good holds. Traverse right to some redder rock (poor quality). Continue up and diagonally right until stood on top of loose blocks. Traverse left cautiously and continue past a friable looking thread to a good belay above some overhangs.
7. 25m. E4 6a. Start on delicate moves to a break and traverse right to below a corner. Another tricky move gains the corner. Trend right and back left into the corner a few meters higher, finally reaching good holds and gear placements and an easy step left on to the face from under the overhang. Contine up to a hanging belay on the left side of the overhang.
8. 30m. E1 5a. Follow the crack trending left for a few meters to reach a wide crack. Follow the crack, which eases after a steep start, to a large sloping ledge and belay. The orange rock on this pitch is extremely crumbly, so take care.
9. 40m. S 4b. Climb the easy angled slabs at the back of the ledge. Move back left 8 meters to a solid wall with good holds. Climb up 6 meters and move left to a good ledge. Scramble the last easy cracks to the summit and cairn.
Trystan Lowe, Robert Beddow 28/Jun/2015.
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