South Arete*** IV+
150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A deservedly popular route that is the perfect introduction to Dolomite trad. The rock is mainly solid and, although not always logical, the route is varied and enjoyable. There are cemented belays throughout, but scant fixed gear en-route.

Start at the base of the south arete by a piton and a faded red mark below a groove.
1) III, 25m. Climb the groove then move left to a belay below a short corner.
2) IV-, 30m. Climb the corner then follow the arete with enjoyable exposed climbing to a comfortable stance.
3) IV, 30m. Continue following the arete to a stance below a yellow arete.
4) IV, 30m. Climb to a piton then traverse right to reach a chimney. Climb this rightwards then move back left on easier rock to a belay in a break in the arete.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb rightwards to reach a good ledge, overcome a crack then move left and back right to squeeze into a chimney to a belay behind a flake.
6) IV, 25m. Be careful not to go direct here. Drop down a little and traverse right through a vague tunnel before following a shallow chimney behind a flake. Belay below a corner with a gully to the right (easier variant).
7) IV+, 20m. Climb the slightly polished but well-pegged corner-crack then continue with easier climbing to a belay below the summit cross. It is also possible to climb the easier gully on the right, but you'd end up missing the best pitch.
8) III, 20m. Climb the amenable slab above to reach the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A very popular and fun introduction to the Dolomites, but not quite as good as it looks. Anything from 3 to 7 pitches, with numerous cemented belay places. The crux is the final pitch, but it is avoidable.


Cobertaldo/Pezzotti 01/Aug/1939
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 163 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Nice climb. Lots of available belays. last pitch polished but fine in the dry.
HP9 - Lead - 10/Jun/15 with Annika Sivlerberg

p1 Solo, p2 F, p3 F, p4 F, p5 R, p6 (?!) R
FlavioL1989 - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/14 with Rob Edwards

tom P1, Andy 2,3 and 5. Me 2nd part of 2 + 4 and 6. Don't try and climb chimney on R at top of P2 like dopy me. Warm start, snow at top. great position, P6 lives up to reputation. Interesting descent thro trenches.
wilf - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with Tom, Andy

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Sep/14

Simon Pelly - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/14

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Debbie

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/14

Celia Watson - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with stuart watson

Charles Kinniburgh - 2nd - 21/Aug/14 with Rob Davies

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14

Sian's Birthday route. Straightforward route finding. Good views back over the Falzarego Pass. Descent via the Trench system is an interesting way to finish.
m675bowsl - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Sian Davies

gmatthew - 04/Aug/14

Hidden - 24/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/14

Alex Eperon - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/13

Led pitches 5 and 6. The latter was incredibly polished which was joyous in the cold (climbed in cag and wooly hat).
niallk - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/13 with Steven Harris, Pam

Giles Eperon - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/13 with jena meinecke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/13

ANC - AltLd - 07/Sep/13 with Louise Humphreys

louise123 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/13 with Angus Clark

Climbed with my 11 year old son who was blown away by its awesomeness (but then it was his first route in the Dolomites).
wastedyouth - 30/Aug/13

Good varied route; interesting the whole way up. The views are amazing. Worth taking a rack, despite the guide book saying there are enough pegs to protect it (there aren't). 3 hours, road to road.
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/13 with mike kann

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Kris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/13

Hidden - 08/Aug/13

Hidden - 08/Aug/13

ClareHowes90 - 2nd - Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/13

Lead pitches 2,4,6. Last pitch semi bolted and felt less than HS
henry.jeffreys - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/13 with Sam Hockley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/13

Polished! Led crux final pitch.
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Simen

Lead 1, 3 & 4 this time. No stitches needed this time!
Fiona Reid - Lead rpt - 16/Jul/13 with Mike

No pulling off holds this time!
prog99 - AltLd rpt - 16/Jul/13 with Fiona

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13

ClimberJimmyB - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jul/13

kateberry118 - AltLd - Jul/13 with Zoe Cockburn, Caroline Bowie

victorhearnyeates - Lead - Jul/13

Zoe Cockburn - AltLd - Jul/13

Gumc team ascent with Laura Martin, Caitlin Neilson, Will Hastie, Henry OB and Josh Ring. Great day out with a great last pitch (chimney section IV+)
EmSto - Jul/13

did it in 7 pitches. Steve led pitch 1 and what would be pitch 4 but was pitch 5 for us.i led the rest.nice route but big run outs, normal for dollies i guess!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with steve moore

I lead 1st & 4th Pitch, J Gill Lead 2nd, 3rd, 5th & 6th pitches.
mky77 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13

Did in 7 pitches. Lead 1,3,5,7
MarkCunnington - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Nicholas Lokuciewski, Anna Morris

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/13

Anna Morris - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Mark Cunnington

tim exley - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with alice

abbed back down route due too abundance of snow of normal decent
kingjam - Lead - Jun/13 with Matt Naylor

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/13

Lead all but 2nd pitch
marsden.d.paul - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Andrew Marsden

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/12

George.nunn1993 - Lead O/S - Aug/12

Big queues but still a good route.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Huw Goodall

Good. Descent through the WWI trenches/tunnels/lookout posts adds to the day out.
johnpuddephatt - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Rosie Cole

busy. nice enough. cool decent thru trenches
dunnyg - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with will hunt

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/12 with Elizabeth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11

crowded
stevorobs3 - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with David Brock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11

Harri777 - AltLd - Aug/11 with Naomi

NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Harri!

roberts1234567890 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Ian Thyer

Julli - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Arri Leino

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11

Airtime on pitch 5 after a hold broke off. Finished of the route and horrified onlookers on the summit whilst attending to various injuries. 7 stitches and a new helmet needed!
prog99 - AltLd - 08/Jul/11 with Fiona

Nearly end of holiday when Mike decided to remodel the climb on pitch 5 and went flying. Climbing tape used to stick him back together and I finished the remaining pitches. Nice climb, busy busy though. Led pitches 2,4,5,6
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 08/Jul/11 with Mike

Worth doing just for the tunnel systems on top!
whistler - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11 with Dan Simmons

love the polish. ascend the cross for a true summit tick
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11 with piotr

roberts1234567890 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11 with Martin Hill

IanMcC - AltLd - 01/Jul/11 with Scott Bamford

Ric King and Gryff
rch3l - 2nd - Jul/11

well nice climb learning rope techniques with twins and double belays, crux final pitch, commit to get yourself into the crack.
ricking777 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Rachel Roberts, Howyle Griffith

2010_graham - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/11

Peter Holder - Solo O/S - 30/May/11

roberts1234567890 - 2nd - 29/May/11

Hidden - Solo - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Excellent route goes up a very steep arete for the first few pitches. The last pitch is a polished crack which is VS 4c. It can be avoided by a loose looking gulley to the right but the crack is very worthwhile. The WWI relics on the decent are the best in the area IMHO and this mountain had the some of the most intense fighting in WWI. Probably best done midweek as it can get busy!
brianrunner - AltLd - 20/Sep/10 with martina

Lovely climb, lovely weather and we had no-one behind us and only a couple of other english climbers ahead of us on a Sunday afternoon!
3kidsandanorton - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Kay

Lead all pitches. Belayed after the squeeze over the big block to prevent epic rope drag failure and lead from there all the way to the summit using the choss-filled chimney. Didn't even see the harder finishing pitch!
Mr. K - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with James Oswald, Adam Radcliff, Chris Mullaney

think u'd need some big ropes to do this in 3 pitches! first dolomites experience
adam06 - AltLd - 23/Aug/10 with Chris Mullaney, kyle wood, james oswald

fathobbit - 2nd - 23/Aug/10 with Mr. K

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10

akhutton88 - 07/Aug/10

dickie01 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Julian King

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/10 with Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant

Didn't initially spot where to go subterrainian
JLS - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/10 with Jacqui

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/10

busy but fun, complete with comedic summit book entry
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with tom jenkins, emily roo

Did not finish student ill (throwing up) rapped back after 2nd pitch.
John HW - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/10 with 1 x Student

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - 2nd - 23/Jun/10 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/10

SianR - AltLd - Jun/10 with Laura & Hannah

Hidden - 2010

mick grim - 2010

mick grim - AltLd O/S - 2010

Was belayed by Kyle up the pitch with the step across the gap. scary but safe in retrospect. Belayed from here. Then belayed Kyle and then seconded up the steep,easy very very chossy chimney. Awesome. First route in the Dolomites. Took way way too long!
James Oswald - 2010

timofy - AltLd - 28/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/09

Lev - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Emma Ross

Fast ascent (2hrs) before flight home in afternoon. Lovely straightforward route.
Siderunner - AltLd β - 13/Aug/09 with Kirsten

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/09

Climbed in tandem with Julian & Jo
Barry D - AltLd - 29/Jul/09 with Dan S

Dunx - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Becky

p.j.deacon - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

andyebbens - AltLd - 30/Jun/09 with Steve E

Sankey - AltLd - 30/Jun/09 with Andy E

Climbed on a sunny saturday, along with most of the population of italy...
TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Tom

tbs105 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Tiff

Hidden - Solo β - 12/Jun/09

South East Arete in the AC guidebook? UIAA IV+ and 210m AMAMAM
Marq - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/08 with Andrew Funnell

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Led pitches 3-6. Very good route and fun descent through WWI tunnels.
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Oliver Mentz and Ellen Taylor

v popular with guides! Fun descent through ww1 tunnels
ellentaylor - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Ollie & Adam

31770 - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/08 with Ellen Taylor, adamscottthomas

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08

cat22 - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Mike

Em66 - 2nd - 20/Jun/08 with Mat

Lead all pitches, quite a snowy descent so early in the year
jl - Lead O/S - 27/May/08 with Penny

pennyb - 2nd O/S - 27/May/08 with Jon

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

jcj - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/07

Cold, light snow falling on early pitches
uphillnow - AltLd - 03/Sep/07 with Maggie Bass

drop dead fred... - Lead O/S - Sep/07

Protheroe - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/07 with Dave Radley And Dave Underhill

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/07

Instructing on Vajolet Tiger
John HW - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Russ

Climbed in heavy rain: escaped up the gully on the final pitch. Led Ps 2,4,6.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/06 with James

Anna Horrox - 2nd - Aug/06 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Anna

Hidden - Lead - Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/06

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 18/Jul/06 with Anne-Marie

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/06 with Joe

Decent route. The crux is the last pitch which is probably VS 4c on a polished wall to the right of an easy gully so is aviodable.The rest of the route is a good bit easier.There is very little insitu gear. An Italian couple were climbing behind us with only extenders (they were carrying no pro at all) and they were stressed. Very interesting WW1 archeology on top.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Jamie

good route. Polished, especially the avoidable last pitch. My italian sucks. Couldnīt understand what these Italian couple were after. They just kept starring at our climbing gear and gibbering. Eventually I leant them an extra set of nuts and then suddenly it became apparent. They had none thinking it was sport route! How slow can I be!
Valdres Fjellguider - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Andy porter

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

rob stokes - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with rebecca

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

Elsier - 2nd - Jul/06 with Stuart

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/05

IanMcC - AltLd - 25/Jul/04 with Mhairi

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/03 with Tony Buj

Chris the Tall - AltLd - Sep/02 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/02

Hidden - 23/Jul/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/02

tjekel - 2002

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hotcake, hthom, yossarian714, waldenmatt, Bobling, zach.stone, Porridge the climber

Voting
Total votes cast 64
hard V-0 of 2
V-0 of 2
easy V-0 of 2
hard IV+0 of 2
IV+1 of 2
easy IV+1 of 2
hard IV0 of 2
IV0 of 2
easy IV0 of 2
3 Stars6 of 22
2 Stars12 of 22
1 Star4 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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