150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A deservedly popular route that is the perfect introduction to Dolomite trad. The rock is mainly solid and, although not always logical, the route is varied and enjoyable. There are cemented belays throughout, but scant fixed gear en-route.

Start at the base of the south arete by a piton and a faded red mark below a groove.
1) III, 25m. Climb the groove then move left to a belay below a short corner.
2) IV-, 30m. Climb the corner then follow the arete with enjoyable exposed climbing to a comfortable stance.
3) IV, 30m. Continue following the arete to a stance below a yellow arete.
4) IV, 30m. Climb to a piton then traverse right to reach a chimney. Climb this rightwards then move back left on easier rock to a belay in a break in the arete.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb rightwards to reach a good ledge, overcome a crack then move left and back right to squeeze into a chimney to a belay behind a flake.
6) IV, 25m. Be careful not to go direct here. Drop down a little and traverse right through a vague tunnel before following a shallow chimney behind a flake. Belay below a corner with a gully to the right (easier variant).
7) IV+, 20m. Climb the slightly polished but well-pegged corner-crack then continue with easier climbing to a belay below the summit cross. It is also possible to climb the easier gully on the right, but you'd end up missing the best pitch.
8) III, 20m. Climb the amenable slab above to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very popular and fun introduction to the Dolomites, but not quite as good as it looks. Anything from 3 to 7 pitches, with numerous cemented belay places. The crux is the final pitch, but it is avoidable.

Cobertaldo/Pezzotti 01/Aug/1939

Hidden 20/Sep AltLd
tuukka 10/Sep AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 10/Sep AltLd O/S
gringo1804 04/Sep AltLd O/S

With Gary Mason and Shaun Ashton. Shaun led first 3 pitches, I led the rest.

gringo1804 04/Sep AltLd O/S

With Gary Mason and Shaun Ashton. Shaun led first 3 pitches, I led the rest.

Hidden 01/Sep Lead O/S
Matt1234 31/Aug AltLd O/S
kirky_p 29/Aug AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 27/Aug Lead
with Clare
cmars89 18/Aug AltLd O/S
sam duckworth 18/Aug AltLd
with Tom raf, Craig
Tcampbell390 18/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug AltLd
Hidden 10/Aug AltLd O/S
Mike W ?/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 27/Jul AltLd O/S
with Iain
Hidden 23/Jul AltLd O/S
Batt 22/Jul AltLd O/S

With some booming in the background...!

Hidden 16/Jul -
Hidden 16/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul AltLd
iainsanderson 07/Jul AltLd O/S

Early start, although sharing stances with four Poles and two Italians more intent on dying than climbing. Chose the right gully to summit, rather than get further caught up in a multinational pile-up

with John Hayes
HP9 10/Jun Lead

Nice climb. Lots of available belays. last pitch polished but fine in the dry.

with Annika Sivlerberg
FlavioL1989 07/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

p1 Solo, p2 F, p3 F, p4 F, p5 R, p6 (?!) R

with Rob Edwards
wilf 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

tom P1, Andy 2,3 and 5. Me 2nd part of 2 + 4 and 6. Don't try and climb chimney on R at top of P2 like dopy me. Warm start, snow at top. great position, P6 lives up to reputation. Interesting descent thro trenches.

with Tom, Andy
Hidden 12/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
Simon Pelly 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Marti999 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Celia Watson 06/Sep/14 2nd
Charles Kinniburgh 21/Aug/14 2nd
Rob Davies 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

We did not set foot on this 2 days earlier due to crowds. OK but a bit rambling in the upper section.

Hidden 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
m675bowsl 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Sian's Birthday route. Straightforward route finding. Good views back over the Falzarego Pass. Descent via the Trench system is an interesting way to finish.

gmatthew 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/14 -
Hidden 07/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Alex Eperon 16/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
niallk 16/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 5 and 6. The latter was incredibly polished which was joyous in the cold (climbed in cag and wooly hat).

with Steven Harris, Pam
Giles Eperon 16/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with jena meinecke
Hidden 13/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/13 AltLd
ANC 07/Sep/13 AltLd
with Louise Humphreys
louise123 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
wastedyouth 30/Aug/13 -

Climbed with my 11 year old son who was blown away by its awesomeness (but then it was his first route in the Dolomites).

katherinesydney 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Good varied route; interesting the whole way up. The views are amazing. Worth taking a rack, despite the guide book saying there are enough pegs to protect it (there aren't). 3 hours, road to road.

Roger Cruse 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Kris
Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 -
Louvet 08/Aug/13 -
with Tarquin
ClareHowes90 ?/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd
henry.jeffreys 31/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2,4,6. Last pitch semi bolted and felt less than HS

Hidden 31/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
bridget143 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Polished! Led crux final pitch.

with Simen
Fiona Reid 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Lead 1, 3 & 4 this time. No stitches needed this time!

with Mike
Mike-W-99 16/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

No pulling off holds this time!

with Fiona
Hidden 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ClimberJimmyB 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd
kateberry118 ?/Jul/13 AltLd
with Zoe Cockburn, Caroline Bowie
victorhearnyeates ?/Jul/13 Lead
Zoe Cockburn ?/Jul/13 AltLd
EmSto ?/Jul/13 -

Gumc team ascent with Laura Martin, Caitlin Neilson, Will Hastie, Henry OB and Josh Ring. Great day out with a great last pitch (chimney section IV+)

jon_gill1 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

did it in 7 pitches. Steve led pitch 1 and what would be pitch 4 but was pitch 5 for us.i led the rest.nice route but big run outs, normal for dollies i guess!

mky77 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

I lead 1st & 4th Pitch, J Gill Lead 2nd, 3rd, 5th & 6th pitches.

MarkCunnington 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Did in 7 pitches. Lead 1,3,5,7

with Nicholas Lokuciewski, Anna Morris
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd
Anna Morris 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
tim exley 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with alice
kingjam ?/Jun/13 Lead

abbed back down route due too abundance of snow of normal decent

Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
marsden.d.paul 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead all but 2nd pitch

with Andrew Marsden
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead
George.nunn1993 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Big queues but still a good route.

johnpuddephatt 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Good. Descent through the WWI trenches/tunnels/lookout posts adds to the day out.

Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Elizabeth
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Absolutely full of climbers, lead pitch 1, 4 & 5

stevorobs3 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Harri777 ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with Naomi
NB Pixel ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Harri!
roberts1234567890 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Ian Thyer
Julli 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Arri Leino
Hidden 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Mike-W-99 08/Jul/11 AltLd

Airtime on pitch 5 after a hold broke off. Finished of the route and horrified onlookers on the summit whilst attending to various injuries. 7 stitches and a new helmet needed!

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 08/Jul/11 AltLd

Nearly end of holiday when Mike decided to remodel the climb on pitch 5 and went flying. Climbing tape used to stick him back together and I finished the remaining pitches. Nice climb, busy busy though. Led pitches 2,4,5,6

with Mike
whistler 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Worth doing just for the tunnel systems on top!

danimal88 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

love the polish. ascend the cross for a true summit tick

with piotr
roberts1234567890 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Martin Hill
IanMcC 01/Jul/11 AltLd
with Scott Bamford
rch3l ?/Jul/11 2nd

Ric King and Gryff

ricking777 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

well nice climb learning rope techniques with twins and double belays, crux final pitch, commit to get yourself into the crack.

with Rachel Roberts, Howyle Griffith
2010_graham 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 30/May/11 Solo O/S
roberts1234567890 29/May/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
Hidden ??/2011 -
brianrunner 20/Sep/10 AltLd

Excellent route goes up a very steep arete for the first few pitches. The last pitch is a polished crack which is VS 4c. It can be avoided by a loose looking gulley to the right but the crack is very worthwhile. The WWI relics on the decent are the best in the area IMHO and this mountain had the some of the most intense fighting in WWI. Probably best done midweek as it can get busy!

with martina
3kidsandanorton 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, lovely weather and we had no-one behind us and only a couple of other english climbers ahead of us on a Sunday afternoon!

with Kay
Mr. K 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. Belayed after the squeeze over the big block to prevent epic rope drag failure and lead from there all the way to the summit using the choss-filled chimney. Didn't even see the harder finishing pitch!

with James Oswald, Adam Radcliff, Chris Mullaney
adam06 23/Aug/10 AltLd

think u'd need some big ropes to do this in 3 pitches! first dolomites experience

with Chris Mullaney, kyle wood, james oswald
fathobbit 23/Aug/10 2nd
with Mr. K
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
akhutton88 07/Aug/10 -
dickie01 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Julian King
Hidden 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
tallthinmonkey 20/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant
JLS 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Didn't initially spot where to go subterrainian

with Jacqui
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd
Ginger McGrath 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

busy but fun, complete with comedic summit book entry

with tom jenkins, emily roo
John HW 24/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Did not finish student ill (throwing up) rapped back after 2nd pitch.

with 1 x Student
simon kimber 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hanski 23/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/10 AltLd
SianR ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Laura & Hannah
Hidden ??/2010 -
mick grim ??/2010 -
mick grim ??/2010 AltLd O/S
James Oswald ??/2010 -

Was belayed by Kyle up the pitch with the step across the gap. scary but safe in retrospect. Belayed from here. Then belayed Kyle and then seconded up the steep,easy very very chossy chimney. Awesome. First route in the Dolomites. Took way way too long!

timofy 28/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Lev 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Siderunner 13/Aug/09 AltLd β

Fast ascent (2hrs) before flight home in afternoon. Lovely straightforward route.

with Kirsten
Hidden 04/Aug/09 AltLd
Barry D 29/Jul/09 AltLd

Climbed in tandem with Julian & Jo

with Dan S
Dunx ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Becky
p.j.deacon ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
andyebbens 30/Jun/09 AltLd
with Steve E
Sankey 30/Jun/09 AltLd
with Andy E
TiffTiff 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Climbed on a sunny saturday, along with most of the population of italy...

with Tom
tbs105 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tiff
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Solo β
jcw ??/2009 -

I thought I was finishing my Dolomites career on a route described as a suitable route for a beginner,and was v depressed. Fortunately 2 further seasons proved me wrong.

with Andre Ike
Marq 10/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

South East Arete in the AC guidebook? UIAA IV+ and 210m AMAMAM

Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 28/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3-6. Very good route and fun descent through WWI tunnels.

with Oliver Mentz and Ellen Taylor
ellentaylor 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S

v popular with guides! Fun descent through ww1 tunnels

with Ollie & Adam
31770 28/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Dave Latimer 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
cat22 ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Em66 20/Jun/08 2nd
with Mat
jl 27/May/08 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, quite a snowy descent so early in the year

with Penny
pennyb 27/May/08 2nd O/S
with Jon
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
jcj ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/07 Lead O/S
uphillnow 03/Sep/07 AltLd

Cold, light snow falling on early pitches

with Maggie Bass
drop dead fred... ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Protheroe 14/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Radley And Dave Underhill
Hidden 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/07 AltLd
John HW 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Instructing on Vajolet Tiger

with Russ
Andy Clarke 01/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Climbed in heavy rain: escaped up the gully on the final pitch. Led Ps 2,4,6.

with James
Anna Horrox ?/Aug/06 2nd
clive-greenwood ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/06 AltLd
Stuart Macfarlane 18/Jul/06 AltLd
with Anne-Marie
FrankW 09/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Joe
AndyP 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Decent route. The crux is the last pitch which is probably VS 4c on a polished wall to the right of an easy gully so is aviodable.The rest of the route is a good bit easier.There is very little insitu gear. An Italian couple were climbing behind us with only extenders (they were carrying no pro at all) and they were stressed. Very interesting WW1 archeology on top.

with Jamie
Jamie Simpson 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

good route. Polished, especially the avoidable last pitch. My italian sucks. Couldnīt understand what these Italian couple were after. They just kept starring at our climbing gear and gibbering. Eventually I leant them an extra set of nuts and then suddenly it became apparent. They had none thinking it was sport route! How slow can I be!

with Andy porter
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
rob stokes ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with rebecca
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Stuart
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
IanMcC 25/Jul/04 AltLd
with Mhairi
jamie ward 15/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Tony Buj
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/02 AltLd
with Paul
Hidden 23/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/02 -
Hidden 01/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
tjekel ??/2002 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, joe.wahab, Hotcake, Hidden, hthom, yossarian714, waldenmatt, Hidden, Bobling, zach.stone, Porridge the climber
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Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set