Clachaig Gully (summer)*** S
[The first waterfall pitch, 3 kb]520m. of classic wet rock, waterfalls, blank walls and a hair raising descent

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray.

Photo: The first waterfall pitch © MarshF
View all 8 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 68 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

20ish pitches. Not so much a classic as trench warfare. The dry temperatures helped but this was still an exercise in heather bashing and soggy feet as well as the never-ending question of whether it will be over soon. Far too much thrashing through undergrowth and dubious ledge shuffling. At times the route is just plain dangerous. Some occasional good pitches - Great Cave, Slab, Jericho, but an awful lot more of scrappy nonsense.
Rampikino - Lead - 24/Jul/14 with Cat

Hidden - 2014

Sit Start, 14 hours. Full on adventure climbing.
MarshF - AltLd - 28/Sep/13 with Jamie, Bella, David, Fergus, Max Scherer, alexmcmillan

Rather epic, made it to the top at least. some horrendous sections and inescapable for much of its length. Little gear and belays can be scarce. Nowhere near the quality of the chasm, but felt much harder due to more slippery, compact rock and vegetation. blog post and more info here: http://bit.ly/1atBwT8
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with David, Max, alex mcmillan, MarshF, Fergus Cuthill

BellaBooo - 2nd - 28/Sep/13

Quality day out, Climbed as a group of 7 resulting in a very long day.
Fergus Cuthill - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Bella, Max, David, Alex McMillan, Marsh, Jamie

Quite the adventure. Something like 14-15 hours on route in a group of 7. Some proper wet and crumbly pitches and the dark may not have been the most pleasant at the time, but it was a great day out nonetheless. On descending the ridge, lights below and stars above made for quite a surreal experience...
alexmcmillan - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with David Noblett, Bella Hughes, Fergus Cuthill, Jamie Sparkes, Marsh Flint, Max Scherer

captain - 2013

TheAndyBarker - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Hidden - 2012

goadventure1 - 2012

check - 2012

Gordon, Will & Dobbo. Retreated after 2 pitches in the face of overwhelming quantities of slippy rock and waterfalls.
Roch - 23/Apr/11 with MRT

pasbury - 2011

sgl0jd - 2011

I'd give it 1 star for the history involved but as a climb its disappointing. The Chasm is a better day out by far.
Captain Solo - Solo - 20/Jun/10

A great little adventure, we did it in 4 hours car to car, mostly solo which made for some exciting moments. I lost a number 8 rock on the first pitch but managed to retrieve a number 4 wallnut that I placed this time two years ago! It was also interesting to notice the state of the tat and krab we abbed off last time, for two years in the gully it still looked better than some stuff I've abbed off in the past, which was a touch worrying.
mikemartin - AltLd - 15/Jun/10

jack_eadie - AltLd - 15/Jun/10

Allan Austin's description in Classic Rock says it all - desperate/lethal/loose - dislodged car-sized boulder. Idiots only need apply! 2nd attempt. From bottom (skipping this as new SMC guide suggests is clearly missing half the climb, no looser here than the rest of the beast and it contains the crux!). 9hrs, topped out in dark. Crux = waterfall about 4 pitches before the Great Cave Pitch (see 'Spot the Climber' photo from 1st attempt). Occasional cool pitches = technical Red Wall, Red Chimney, unprotected Slab Wall (CR's crux), Jerico Wall and a few others are fantastic, most of it is horrendous though; so bad I hardly noticed being eaten alive by midges!
jimorothy - Lead - 05/Jun/10 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/May/10

Neil Mackenzie - AltLd dnf - 02/May/10 with jamsey

Hidden - 2010

BigHell - Sep/09

Went right from the bottom, took 7 hours. Pitches up to the great cave pitch are vegitated and chanllenging but doable. Led the Great Cave Pitch.....fantastic. Lots more above also with some of the hardeds pitches comming towards the top.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Fred Lyon

suess - Lead - 01/Jun/09

ig248 - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with Fabian Jakubczik

Backed off before Jericho wall, too much water the gully.
mikemartin - AltLd dnf - Jul/08

Completely sheltered from the strong NE wind, on a cloud-free Bank Holiday weekend, and we had the route to ourselves. Super stuff, mostly poorly protected VDiff with a couple of harder pitches (luckily with some gear). Ignore the Crocket guide which says there are 8 pitches, there are 15 or 16 (I lost count)!
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Carmen

Callum T - AltLd - Nov/07

Amazing climb. Very wet and very cold in November! Took a while to do it and almost missed last call at the inn! But an unbelievable time.
Major_Steve - 2nd - Nov/07 with Alex Carberry, Tanis Godwin

jonnie3430 - AltLd - 13/Oct/07

tumbling wizard - Lead - 2007

westaway - Solo O/S - 2006

timmy-ts - 2004

Hidden - TR - 14/May/03

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/03

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Chad123 - 2000

Mickdenali - AltLd - 1999 with Bob Macleod

five - AltLd dnf - Jun/97 with SB

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/96

Yourlead - AltLd - 30/Jun/95 with Graham Penny

Hidden - 01/Aug/94

A fab day out and done during a drought which I recommend.
brianrunner - AltLd - May/90 with John Thomson

phardman - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

David Smith - 1990

Very wet but perversely fun
Iain Thow - Lead - 15/Dec/88 with Tim Whittaker

What a route!
Babika - AltLd - 20/May/87 with Jeremy Hemmimgs

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/86

Nigel Bond - Lead - 03/Jun/86 with Roger Skews

rogerskews - 02/Jun/85 with Nigel Bond

Hidden - AltLd - May/85

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Aug/83

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Feb/80

arduff - AltLd - 1980 with EUMC pals

An outing
arduff - AltLd - 1980 with Chris Brown

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 13/Sep/79 with Sarah Bridge

neil3965 - AltLd - May/78 with Gordon Stewart

neil3965 - Lead - Sep/77 with Julie Blythe

Colin Matheson - AltLd - Sep/76 with Brown

auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1975 with Ben Cooper?

Peter Main - 2nd - 14/Sep/71 with Glencoe Mountaineering School

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/70

Chris Craggs - 1968

Bivied at base and started first light. With Marshal Reeves and Charlie Tanner. Marshall ahead and Charlie and I trailing behind
David Smith - Solo - May/65

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adamarchie, johnny_black7, JonLongshanks, aldo56, arose, Rob Halliday, CM1992, Christian Beck, ckmoffat, Richard Alderton, Dustin, hcooper, mattrm, davie.p., cayteye, Ezy Ryder, the colonel, andrew300169, PanzerHanzler, DerwentDiluted, bomberharris, Mac Ghille Aindrais, stuartf

Voting
Total votes cast 20
hard HS0 of 9
HS0 of 9
easy HS3 of 9
hard S2 of 9
S3 of 9
easy S1 of 9
hard HVD0 of 9
HVD0 of 9
easy HVD0 of 9
3 Stars7 of 11
2 Stars3 of 11
1 Star1 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
dnf