UKC Logbook - 'Alternative Solutions'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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35m. Nice climbing up the grooves and bulges about 3m to the right of Llanfair Groove but unbalanced difficulty with hard moves at the start and at the half height bulge. Start to the right of the twin grooves in the wall. Step into the right-hand groove and make a style or reach move to gain a hidden jug in the base of the higher groove. Continue up slabs to the halfway bulge and make another style or reach move to another hidden jug in the line between the bolts. Gain the slab above (virtually in Llanfair Groove) then move out right and finish up a corner to the Llanfair Groove lower-off joining that route at its last bolt.

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 28/Aug/2015.