UKC

27m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route - a tough E5 or easy E6, you decide! Start just below and left of the high flying arete that makes the dramatic climax of this route. Move up and left to a ledge and take the hanging flake on the right up the steep wall. Enter the groove above, climb past a thread and continue on to a small niche. Bridge up the groove above (peg) to a short respite before swinging right onto the arete in an outrageous position. Engage turbo thruster and climb boldly up the arete to a final dramatic move at the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the detached flake, past a thread, continue into a shallow niche. Unobvious moves lead to a peg then a good rest ledge. From here move out onto the arete (peg) and beast it to the top.

Ticklists

North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Classic Lobs , James' Summer Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ed morris 15 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The Peg is gone but the route is probably better for it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Peg is gone but the route is probably better for it.
Alex Hall 8 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: So the final peg is no more... sorry
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So the final peg is no more... sorry
George_Surf 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Doesn’t take many cams so bring a lot of draws
Show beta
βeta: Doesn’t take many cams so bring a lot of draws
Misha 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: In situ lower off (shared with Roc Ness Monster) - peg and a wire. Consider adding extra gear if you feel it's necessary... Added a long piece of tat 8.7.19 - the idea is to be able to re-equalise it to ab down / belay either Roc Ness or King Wad. Didn't have a knife handy to cut out the old tat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ lower off (shared with Roc Ness Monster) - peg and a wire. Consider adding extra gear if you feel it's necessary... Added a long piece of tat 8.7.19 - the idea is to be able to re-equalise it to ab down / belay either Roc Ness or King Wad. Didn't have a knife handy to cut out the old tat.
Theo Moore 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First go fell off reversing from the peg (to whoever told me to do this: you are wrong and I will never forgive you). Hard wild moves up the arete with a big throw to finish, although there is apparently an easier way to do it.
Show beta
βeta: First go fell off reversing from the peg (to whoever told me to do this: you are wrong and I will never forgive you). Hard wild moves up the arete with a big throw to finish, although there is apparently an easier way to do it.

Logged Ascents

124 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Esgair Maen Gwyn (Scimitar Ridge)

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 36
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Senior Citizen Smith

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gideon Quarries [Glyn Rhonwy])

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