UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A very sustained route, but not the hardest E5 around. Start in the middle of the terrace below a crack-line that grows with height to become a groove by the top. Move up to the roof and arrange some gear. Make a stiff pull around this followed by a few more technical moves to enter the start of the crack proper. Follow this - all rather sustained - to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious thin crackline just right of chreon, cruxy rather than sustained (at least the Ground Up select gets this right), and very good. Climb fiercely over the bulge and up to a short hanging arete (peg), crux moves gain bomber wires. Now step left and head straight on up to the finishing groove.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Trad climbs for sport climbers , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nick Bullock 26 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: In-situ abseil reinstated. 3 good wires, a chunk of thick rope and a taped locker.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In-situ abseil reinstated. 3 good wires, a chunk of thick rope and a taped locker.
Misha 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: No in situ ab point on 8.7.19. Two good wire slots available though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No in situ ab point on 8.7.19. Two good wire slots available though.

Logged Ascents

185 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Esgair Maen Gwyn (Scimitar Ridge)

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High E6
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High E5
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Votes cast 44
High 6c
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High 6a
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Messiah

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)

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