An excellent route following grooves and chimneys up the centre of the steepest buttress in the coire. A short ascending traverse pitch leads to the main groove system.

J. Crawford, D. Dawson & W. Skidmore 01/Feb/1976

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 07/Mar AltLd
Dougbart 07/Mar AltLd
with easers
davesa 16/Jan AltLd

Found this hard for III - possibly the conditions did not help

with Mark Huxham
Colin Mcgregor 09/Jan AltLd

Excellent climb with continued interest throughout. Spicy but well protected crux moving out from under the overhang near the end of pitch one. Recommended!

Hidden 09/Jan AltLd
dan doran 09/Jan AltLd
with konacol
Andy Syme 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Stiff for III and limited pro, except warthogs. That said, its all there, turf was bomber and kept me thoughiy engrossed throughout. Well worth the stars.

with Pete Elliott
johnkeith 06/Feb/15 Solo

Think it was fairly thin today. Ramp was straightforward, but moving up the final steepening before the angle relents felt tricky and committing for a Grade 111.

Hidden 01/Feb/15 2nd
jpc1 26/Jan/15 AltLd

Climbed with Jon Sanders. All good and great to be back out in winter, Raining at the car but turf mostly frozen.

Hidden 21/Feb/13 2nd
Euan Strachan 21/Feb/13 -

Um, think we may have taken a 'detour' at the the start as the first pitch seemed to end in a overhang. Although other than that it seemed to fit the route description. Awesome route, awesome winter conditions, well protected over the tricky ground, good variety of climbing

Hidden 27/Jan/13 -
Jacks20 ??/2013 AltLd
with Neil Wightwick
Hidden 13/Dec/12 2nd
lawrenceK 13/Dec/12 Lead
niall_mac 01/Feb/12 AltLd
am_bodach 01/Feb/12 AltLd
grady_9 ?/Feb/12 2nd O/S
youarearobot ?/Feb/12 2nd dog

1st time on ice, 1 fall on the 2nd pitch crux!

with Alex Runicman, Connor Grady
Hidden ??/2012 -
Heike 11/Dec/11 -

Bit slushy today on the walk-in and raining, but loads of snow higher up. Couldn't justify any of the harder routes due to lack of frozenness, but West Buttress was a pleasant consolation price, turfed firmed up 60 metres into the route. Good climb.

with Jeremy
Hidden ??/2011 -
mikemartin 21/Dec/10 AltLd

Dry turf and limited neve made the going a little harder than expected, done in 3 big pitches.

Captain Solo 21/Dec/10 AltLd

A bit lean so probably a grade harder (than old grade of III).

with Mike
morsy 27/Nov/10 AltLd
with gerhard mors
Neilm18 26/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with Fraser Phillip
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd
abbeywall 13/Feb/10 AltLd

led 2 and 4 (5 pitches)

with K
lithos 13/Feb/10 -

I thought hard for III but i am a wuss. Crux pitch (2) is well protected on good foot holds but tricky. Nice route through the cliff. Shared the experience with lovely couple from E'burgh.

Will Smith 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

This is a very good route - in my opinion more interesting than the normal version of taxus. We did it in 5 pitches with sustained interest the whole way. I led pitch 1 (easy traverse followed by turfy chimney and traverse to belay - runout!) pitch 3 (awkard icy groove with mainly turf gear) and pitch 5 (long pitch up good snow ice with bomber threads). The crux second pitch is hard and looks unlikely from below - might explain the three lots of ab tat at the first belay!

with Rob
glenngordon 07/Feb/10 Lead
with jerry millichip
niallk 03/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Good route. Steep crux on good holds. Slightly marred by section after this which seemd to wander about a fair bit with little gear. Turf was bomber, absolutely rock solid - it was so frozen that the best bits were those slightly insulated by the snow which you could get your axe further into.

with Willie
colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
Hidden 19/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
philboy 19/Dec/09 AltLd
with angus, matt g
steev 26/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with Manjoe
sgl 26/Feb/06 AltLd
with Konnie
Hidden 26/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jamie B ?/Nov/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 28/Dec/03 AltLd

Not in good condition but good climb all the same

with Graham Penny
Hidden 01/Feb/03 -
Andy Say 14/Jan/01 Lead
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Dave Kerr 05/Dec/99 Lead
with Craig Proctor
Hidden ??/1999 -
Stuart the postie ??/1998 Solo
innes ??/1997 Solo
Dave Kerr 05/Dec/93 AltLd
with Iain Martin
Yourlead 27/Dec/89 AltLd

Just lead the final easy pith

with Graham Penny
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
metrorat, soularch, AndyBonham, andybuckley, louisesk13, Stuart Hurworth, Hidden, Hidden, oscaig, Adamski1986, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, OwenF, carlh, Hidden, Ally Gillies, Hidden, Lawrie Brand, Hidden, Sonya Mc
Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 19
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set