West Buttress*** III 4
[Approach to West Buttress, 2 kb]An excellent route following grooves and chimneys up the centre of the steepest buttress in the coire. A short ascending traverse pitch leads to the main groove system.
J. Crawford, D. Dawson & W. Skidmore 01/Feb/1976

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Approach to West Buttress © Chris McDaid
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This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Stiff for III and limited pro, except warthogs. That said, its all there, turf was bomber and kept me thoughiy engrossed throughout. Well worth the stars.
Andy Syme - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/15 with Pete Elliott

Think it was fairly thin today. Ramp was straightforward, but moving up the final steepening before the angle relents felt tricky and committing for a Grade 111.
johnkeith - Solo - 06/Feb/15

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/15

Climbed with Jon Sanders. All good and great to be back out in winter, Raining at the car but turf mostly frozen.
jpc1 - AltLd - 26/Jan/15

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Feb/13

Um, think we may have taken a 'detour' at the the start as the first pitch seemed to end in a overhang. Although other than that it seemed to fit the route description. Awesome route, awesome winter conditions, well protected over the tricky ground, good variety of climbing
Euan Strachan - 21/Feb/13

Hidden - 27/Jan/13

Jacks20 - AltLd - 2013 with Neil Wightwick

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Dec/12

lawrenceK - Lead - 13/Dec/12

niall_mac - AltLd - 01/Feb/12 with am_bodach

am_bodach - AltLd - 01/Feb/12 with Niall Maclachlan

grady_9 - 2nd O/S - Feb/12

1st time on ice, 1 fall on the 2nd pitch crux!
youarearobot - 2nd dog - Feb/12 with Alex Runicman, Connor Grady

Hidden - 2012

Bit slushy today on the walk-in and raining, but loads of snow higher up. Couldn't justify any of the harder routes due to lack of frozenness, but West Buttress was a pleasant consolation price, turfed firmed up 60 metres into the route. Good climb.
Heike - 11/Dec/11 with Jeremy

Hidden - 2011

Dry turf and limited neve made the going a little harder than expected, done in 3 big pitches.
mikemartin - AltLd - 21/Dec/10

A bit lean so probably a grade harder (than old grade of III).
Captain Solo - AltLd - 21/Dec/10 with Mike

morsy - AltLd - 27/Nov/10 with gerhard mors

Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/10 with Fraser Phillip

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/10

led 2 and 4 (5 pitches)
abbeywall - AltLd - 13/Feb/10 with K

I thought hard for III but i am a wuss. Crux pitch (2) is well protected on good foot holds but tricky. Nice route through the cliff. Shared the experience with lovely couple from E'burgh.
lithos - 13/Feb/10

This is a very good route - in my opinion more interesting than the normal version of taxus. We did it in 5 pitches with sustained interest the whole way. I led pitch 1 (easy traverse followed by turfy chimney and traverse to belay - runout!) pitch 3 (awkard icy groove with mainly turf gear) and pitch 5 (long pitch up good snow ice with bomber threads). The crux second pitch is hard and looks unlikely from below - might explain the three lots of ab tat at the first belay!
Will Smith - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Rob

glenngordon - Lead - 07/Feb/10 with jerry millichip

Good route. Steep crux on good holds. Slightly marred by section after this which seemd to wander about a fair bit with little gear. Turf was bomber, absolutely rock solid - it was so frozen that the best bits were those slightly insulated by the snow which you could get your axe further into.
niallk - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/10 with Willie

colinthrelfall - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/09

philboy - AltLd - 19/Dec/09 with angus, matt g

steev - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/06 with Manjoe

sgl - AltLd - 26/Feb/06 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/06

Hidden - 2006

Jamie B - Lead - Nov/04 with Jamie Hagemann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

Not in good condition but good climb all the same
Yourlead - AltLd - 28/Dec/03 with Graham Penny

Hidden - 01/Feb/03

Andy Say - Lead - 14/Jan/01

graeme gatherer - 2000

Dave Kerr - Lead - 05/Dec/99 with Craig Proctor

Hidden - 1999

Stuart the postie - Solo - 1998

innes - Solo - 1997

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 05/Dec/93 with Iain Martin

Just lead the final easy pith
Yourlead - AltLd - 27/Dec/89 with Graham Penny

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
oscaig, Adamski1986, iksander, OwenF, carlh, Ally Gillies, Lawrie Brand, Sonya Mc

Total votes cast 48
hard IV0 of 18
IV0 of 18
easy IV0 of 18
hard III14 of 18
III4 of 18
easy III0 of 18
hard II/III0 of 18
II/III0 of 18
easy II/III0 of 18
hard 50 of 16
50 of 16
easy 50 of 16
hard 40 of 16
49 of 16
easy 46 of 16
hard 31 of 16
30 of 16
easy 30 of 16
3 Stars8 of 14
2 Stars4 of 14
1 Star2 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S