6 pitches. The route is forever changing, but essentially wade out (at low tide) to the cliff below the col between the first and second pinnacles of the ridge line. Gain this somehow and follow the ridge for approx 6 pitches to the headland. Then have 10 pints. In reality you need to be leading a good deal harder than HVS, and that goes for all members of the party, in fact it may well be XS 5a now. This route does not require the use of ice axes and crampons however a few pegs or a couple of warthogs may be helpful but ascents have been made without. Some very long (16') slings may be a good idea. Previous ascents have used one or two ice screws on the first pitch, the holes of which may or may not still be usable.

Mick Fowler - naturally Nov/1984

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, Sunny Side Up, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Trad on every UK island, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Graham Westbrook 16/Apr AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out! The climbing isn't hard or sustained but the leader requires a steady head. The pegs are all rusty and a fall would be bad news!

richardashe 16/Apr AltLd O/S

Good day out! The rock felt like feta cheese in places so be careful though the climbing isn't hard or sustained so unless 4b is the top of your grade you should be fine. It's more a mental game!

with Sam
Piers Harley 08/Aug/15 AltLd

highly recommended! Completed the route in 3 hours and ran pitches 3-4 and 5-6 together. Being comfortable with exposure is the key to success and enjoyment on this route.

with Jeremy Windsor
Kevster 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I shall not spoil the leader of the first pitch's thunder. But the rest of it was fine. As described, easier and mostly less serious than expected. As Tony isn't claiming... It may be a new first pitch option for the brave. Estimate XS/E3 5c. If you abseil off the wrong side of the headland (80m) - ie the north side. You can wade/scramble along the base until almost at the end. Here is a smooth but definite corner which has green growing on it low down. A short wade will see you round the point (and I think the correct start). The corner looks stupid and gearless for the first half, but 15m or so back east is a weakness/groove and a trending, rising line leading right wards towards the top of the afore mentioned corner. Pitch 1 XS/E3 5c (25m): Climb the weakness (gear) to where the crack effort runs out at 5m, traverse up across the groove using shaky flakes and slick feet above your now dubious looking gear. Once stood on the rising traverse line, attempt to place gear (warthog/peg) but without real success. Keep going. Enter the corner At 3/4 height, close to the corner. Ground fall opportunity here. Climb the slick face, tantalisingly close to the corner and what from the ground looks like pro possibilities. Keep going and if god smiles on your soul, top out at 16m above the sea level. Belay off the spikes adjacent. Pitch 2 (12m): Just below the north side of the ridge, traverse up to the obvious summit spike. Sling. Traverse down the other side (pegs). The pegs are the belay for the proper first pitch stance.

Gavdee1 16/Aug/14 2nd
with Tony Johnson, Kev
Col Kingshott 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

What a route. 4*'s. Amazing.

jtree03 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

A fantastic adventure. Not hard technically but massively exposed and very committing. Pitch 6 is outrageous!

with Col, Tony
uncontrollable 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Max
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
climbtim 14/May/12 AltLd dnf

Awesome day out, weather unfortunately curtailed the attempt due to high winds and rain arriving earlier than anticipated!! There's now some gear left at the end of pitch two which tide dependant (we got wet) will allow you to bail/retreat. The national trust were very helpful throughout the day and a thank you must go to them, if you liaise with them early and are courteous it'll make your day a lot easier. A jumar would have made the Prussic back up the ab rope easier. Unfinished business here will definitely be back this season.

Hidden 14/May/12 AltLd dnf
Jonny M 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Started off in drizzle with crossed fingers... but thankfully the weather had improved by the time we reached pitch 3 and conditions remained good. What a day and what a route!!! There's (currently) a very good description in 'The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland' by Dan Bailey which is worth reading before attempting the route. Thought grades seem about right at 4b,-,4c,-,-,4b but that discounts the fact that most of the gear is beyond suspect and hand and footholds detach without warning. The wave-washed first pitch seems relatively solid. There's currently 2 pegs at the end of pitch 1, 4 pegs at the crux on pitch 3, 3 pegs at the end of pitch 3, and 2 pegs on the last pitch - all look in a bad state.

with Ian Ferguson
Mr Tickle 03/May/10 AltLd O/S

Great adventure...kayaked from mainland, stoed the boats at Alum Bay and then traversed across to the start. Amazing exposure. Not too bad climbing i think hardest move now is on final pitch protected by two 'ok' pegs but no gear after for around 4m. Probably hard 4c taking into account crumbly footholds! Great experience.

with davenev
davenev 03/May/10 AltLd O/S

Great adventure - route seems to have changed from original guidebook description at pitch 5 - 20ft of ledges seems to be at least 100ft then no chimney on pitch 6 - crux probably now on this last pitch - 2 rusty (ok?) pegs then no other protection until you gain the 'fine position' - the loose holds add to the whole drama - 60m ropes just reach the tourist cage at the top for a good final belay - agree maybe XS 4c/5a

with luke
Hidden 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson ?/Sep/09 AltLd

brilliant day...

with mikey P
mjeffery 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Jane Weir 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
Ian JL ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Henderson
Paz ?/Feb/02 AltLd O/S

Hot and Cold variation.

with AR
babymoac 28/Sep/97 AltLd
with Alex
kp64zl 17/Mar/96 AltLd

This is what I wrote in my guidebook at the time: It was very scary. The chalk was as crumbly as expected and there was no gear. The abseil involved tying three ropes together. The change over at the knots gave added interest to the descent down loose shite. By the time we got to the base of the route, the tide had come in, so that we had to walk through the sea to get to the base of the route. The first pitch was unprotected and covered in wet seaweed. James led magnificently, using ice axes and simon's shoulder. Simon's beautiful ice axe, obviously perturbed by the thought of a five hour escapade on guano covered chalk, decides to leave the expedition at this stage and jumps out of my hand for a watery death.. The third pitch was led by myself up a flaky vertical arete, protected by a peg which went in surprisingly easily! A crucial hold came off at a crucial time and I felt myself drop approximately 2 feet. Somehow saved myself from a 40 foot fall on a dodgy peg and a single 9mm rope and struggled to the belay ledge (surprisingly good) and belayed James, with a sling round a flint for the belay. Another magnificent lead by James, whilst watching an even more spectacular sunset over the needles, the arete was narrow. Sore bottom time. Darkness fell, a moonless night as the final pictures were dealt with by Simon, however we were unable to see the comet.

with James B, Simon V
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High E1
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