Warren Harding 1955
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Did a weird hybrid of the two variants to avoid a party above, forgetting that that would include the big chimney pitch!
Did 5.10a variation in 4 hours 15 mins. Best climb I've ever done I think. Loved every pitch!
Brilliant route, did the right hand 50 Crowded (5.10a, Ian led) option. Fortunately a couple of locals topped out at the same time as us and showed us the descent route, would have been a late finish otherwise. Made it to back to Curry village for a beer in the bar just before 10pm.
|chris smith||06/Apr||AltLd O/S||
Amazing route! A great trad route with an easy bolt ladder mid way up. Don't underestimate the length of this route and the time it takes to do it. Also descent says 4 abseils!!!! We must have went wrong as we did about 9 abs in the dark down chossy gullys.
|Neil Adams||23/Sep/13||AltLd O/S||
Great route. Took the 10a variation to pass another party, which was probably the best pitch on the route!
Climbed with Michael, what an EPIC route so much fun. Climbed in just over 5 hours, down in 2hrs. Led P1- 2 linked (5.8), P5 (10a awesome face), P8 (5.8) Jenga block belay, and P10 (5.8) awesome jams and thin hands good fingers. A high quality day out!
Just a comment on the descent - we found the way down with no problems, follow the cairned trail and your instincts! Only 3 short abseils needed, Supertopo description is fine. 50 Crowded variation is excellent.
Wow - great route, with spectacular views the whole way up. Don't get scared by the grade, the bolts on the 10c slab are about 2ft apart! Lead 1,2,5,7,9,11. Fell off the crux first time, but then decided to Supertopo advice of "Make sure to stay right of bolts" was stupid, and climbed cleanly up the RIGHT side of the brand new bolts. Much easier.
8hrs 40 mins to do the route. 3hrs 20 mins to do the awful descent. Did the 5.9 A0 version with the bolt ladder on pitch 5 (after initially trying to free it). Strung pitches 1 and 2 together (lots of rope-drag) and also pitches 3 and 4. I led pitches 1, 2, 5, 7, 10 and 11. Hol led pitches 3, 4, 6, 8 and 9. Amazingly long and hard day, but great climbing. We were really flying early on, but the sheer amount of climbing and heat started to take its toll by the end. Ran out of water at the top, which instilled a great sense of urgency on a descent we were already a little nervous of beforehand. If you do this route, really do pay careful attention to where you're going on the descent. It would be easy to make a mistake, particularly as you're likely to be tired by the end of the climbing (we were!). The 'exposed third class' mentioned in the descent is nervy to say the least, even though it's not terribly hard - one slip and you're a gonner. Each 'single rope' abseil did lead to the next ab point (note - 60 m rope essential), but often only just, and the abseil can be a bit devious in places. I have no idea what the Supertopo guidebook means when it talks about '3 single-rope rappels' either. It was more like 7 or 8. I would urge anyone doing this to heed Supertopo re. taking plenty of water, and be ultra-careful on the descent. I'd hate to have to do any of the descent in fading light - finding the start of the abseils, and each subsequent ab point is not straightforward. Great, great climb though.
Did the 5.10a variation
|Barry Kerslake||12/Sep/10||2nd O/S||
|dan gibson||04/May/10||AltLd rpt||
Lightning fast, good climb to finish our trip on. Great lead by Tom
4.5 hours 1100 feet. Led 2,4,6,8,9,11
Joe Spoor, Andrew Bitmead
I took over the leading higher up but in truth I think we were both utterly shattered by the end of it. We did Crowded Var which was exposed and sensational. One of my all-time favourite climbs.
Hugh led the crux
Chris Wynn, Hugh Cottam
Long fun route. Some very long pitches 60m, which could be split
|dan gibson||?/Oct/98||AltLd O/S||
Woefully underprepared. Nearly died of hypothermia on this route
|Mystery Toad||??/1985||AltLd O/S||
The East Buttress is another Valley classic offering moderate exposed trad (with the option of a bolt ladder crux) but be careful on the descent: one can get lost. Be certain to carry torches.
We took the 5.9 A0 option and used the bolt ladder - better in keeping with the rest of the route. And easier...