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East Buttress*** 5.10c

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Central Pillar of Frenzy >>
[East Buttress upper reaches, 3 kb]Can be climbed at 5.9 A0. 1100'. Pleasant route but an unpleasant descent.
Warren Harding 1955

Photo: East Buttress upper reaches © submariner
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Great route. Took the 10a variation to pass another party, which was probably the best pitch on the route!
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/13 with Ross B

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/13

jrobbings - Lead - Sep/13

Ross Barnes - AltLd - Sep/13 with Neil A

MonkeyDawson - Lead - May/13 with Simon Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/13

Climbed with Michael, what an EPIC route so much fun. Climbed in just over 5 hours, down in 2hrs. Led P1- 2 linked (5.8), P5 (10a awesome face), P8 (5.8) Jenga block belay, and P10 (5.8) awesome jams and thin hands good fingers. A high quality day out!
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Oct/12

Martin Bagshaw - AltLd - 09/Oct/12 with Dan Moore

khawk - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12 with DT

Just a comment on the descent - we found the way down with no problems, follow the cairned trail and your instincts! Only 3 short abseils needed, Supertopo description is fine. 50 Crowded variation is excellent.
cat22 - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/12 with Mike

Wow - great route, with spectacular views the whole way up. Don't get scared by the grade, the bolts on the 10c slab are about 2ft apart! Lead 1,2,5,7,9,11. Fell off the crux first time, but then decided to Supertopo advice of "Make sure to stay right of bolts" was stupid, and climbed cleanly up the RIGHT side of the brand new bolts. Much easier.
Pythonist - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11

farmus21 - AltLd - 12/Oct/11 with Sam Radcliffe

samrad - AltLd - 12/Oct/11 with james G

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/11

8hrs 40 mins to do the route. 3hrs 20 mins to do the awful descent. Did the 5.9 A0 version with the bolt ladder on pitch 5 (after initially trying to free it). Strung pitches 1 and 2 together (lots of rope-drag) and also pitches 3 and 4. I led pitches 1, 2, 5, 7, 10 and 11. Hol led pitches 3, 4, 6, 8 and 9. Amazingly long and hard day, but great climbing. We were really flying early on, but the sheer amount of climbing and heat started to take its toll by the end. Ran out of water at the top, which instilled a great sense of urgency on a descent we were already a little nervous of beforehand. If you do this route, really do pay careful attention to where you're going on the descent. It would be easy to make a mistake, particularly as you're likely to be tired by the end of the climbing (we were!). The 'exposed third class' mentioned in the descent is nervy to say the least, even though it's not terribly hard - one slip and you're a gonner. Each 'single rope' abseil did lead to the next ab point (note - 60 m rope essential), but often only just, and the abseil can be a bit devious in places. I have no idea what the Supertopo guidebook means when it talks about '3 single-rope rappels' either. It was more like 7 or 8. I would urge anyone doing this to heed Supertopo re. taking plenty of water, and be ultra-careful on the descent. I'd hate to have to do any of the descent in fading light - finding the start of the abseils, and each subsequent ab point is not straightforward. Great, great climb though.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

mshorter - AltLd O/S - Jun/11

Ri - AltLd O/S - 2011

Did the 5.10a variation
tuukka - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/10 with Maija

Birdo - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/10 with Paul McStumpy

Barry Kerslake - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Luke F

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/10

markalmack - AltLd O/S - 12/May/10 with Yan

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 04/May/10 with alex scola

innes - Lead - May/10 with Ruth

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 03/Nov/09 with Mike USA

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/09 with Steve Beckwith

Lightning fast, good climb to finish our trip on. Great lead by Tom
hlegge - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Thomas Codrington

tcn_2002 - Lead - 26/Sep/09 with Hamish Legge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/09

alex_arthur - AltLd - 30/Jun/09

Stig - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Daniel

david morse - AltLd - Jun/09 with todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/09

Billg - AltLd - 18/May/09 with Bob Brewer

nickcanute - AltLd - Oct/08 with tim parkinson

Hidden - Oct/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with aiden jones

Hidden - AltLd - May/08

Toby Dunn - Sep/07 with Lori

4.5 hours 1100 feet. Led 2,4,6,8,9,11
MONKEY78 - AltLd - 28/Apr/07 with Jules Vulliamy

ChrisJD - AltLd - 03/Oct/06 with rc

al99 - AltLd O/S - Oct/06 with Joe Spoor, Andrew Bitmead

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/06

I took over the leading higher up but in truth I think we were both utterly shattered by the end of it. We did Crowded Var which was exposed and sensational. One of my all-time favourite climbs.
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/05 with Joe Thompson

Christian Beck - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Sep/04

Hidden - Sep/04

Hugh led the crux
steveP - 04/Jul/04 with Chris Wynn, Hugh Cottam

shark - AltLd - Apr/04 with Guy Maddox

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/03

Bern - 2003

Derek Furze - Oct/01

Long fun route. Some very long pitches 60m, which could be split
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - Jul/00 with Steve Hastings

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Oct/98 with helen gibson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/96

K1 - AltLd - Sep/94 with Dave Tipping

The East Buttress is another Valley classic offering moderate exposed trad (with the option of a bolt ladder crux) but be careful on the descent: one can get lost. Be certain to carry torches.
Mystery Toad - AltLd O/S - 1985

neil3965 - AltLd - May/84 with Pete McKenzie

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/81

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/78

We took the 5.9 A0 option and used the bolt ladder - better in keeping with the rest of the route. And easier...
petemeads - AltLd - Jun/77

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
misterb, lewiz

Voting
Total votes cast 13
hard 5.10d0 of 3
5.10d0 of 3
easy 5.10d0 of 3
hard 5.10c0 of 3
5.10c3 of 3
easy 5.10c0 of 3
hard 5.10b0 of 3
5.10b0 of 3
easy 5.10b0 of 3
3 Stars9 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 64 (9.4%)
Followed4 of 64 (6.2%)
Alt Leads48 of 64 (75.0%)
Unknown6 of 64 (9.4%)

'Climbed'35 of 64 (54.7%)
clean O/S28 of 64 (43.8%)
clean rpt1 of 64 (1.6%)