Regular North Face Route ("The Rostrum")*** 5.11c
300m, 8 pitches. One of the finest crack climbs in the valley. 8 pitches of sustained jamming of all sizes on flawless rock.

Pitch 1. 5.9. Layback flake to chimney.

Pitch 2, Left Variation. 5.11a. Step down and left to the thin crack and follow it to the upper, easier crack.

Pitch 2, Centre Variation. 5.10a. Lieback the flake (unprotected without large cams) above the belay eventually joining the left variation. Best choice if you want to link first two pitches.

Pitch 2, Right Variation. 5.10d. Climb the flare through a brief crux before traversing left into the upper crack of the first two variations.

Pitch 3. 5.10c. A polished lieback of the belay leads to varied jamming / liebacking for almost a full rope length. Finishes on a broad ledge.

Pitch 4. 5.11c. The obvious finger crack is one of the cruxes of the route. Follow this for 20m to a bolted belay, but don't stop here. Traverse left, and follow the right facing corner to another bolted belay.

Pitch 5. 5.10d. A long clean thin hands crack in a corner leads to a roof. Lieback around the roof and step left to gain a sloping ledge and a belay.

Pitch 6. 5.10a. Make a traverse rightwards off the belay to gain a good crack. Follow this as it widens to an off width. At the top of the off width gain a ledge, (usually caked in bird droppings) on the right.

Pitch 7. 5.11b. Up a hands/big hands crack with a difficult crux. This leads eventually to a ledge under a large roof. Belay here.

Pitch 8. 5.9. Traverse the ledge rightwards (probably through more bird droppings) to the base of a wide crack. A difficult entry move leads to easier climbing. This pitch can be protected with a #6 BD camalot, but it is easy to lose this cam deep in the crack. Alternatively finish directly through the roof (Alien).

Glen Denny, Warren Harding (FA 7/62). Ron Kauk, John Yablonski (FFA to last pitch). Kim Carrigan et al. (FFA, all pitches) 1985
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 22 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Found this harder than I remember, especially the offwidth. Hands were sore today. Wasn't loving the hand jams like I usually do.
markalmack - AltLd rpt - 30/Sep/13 with Catalyn

James led Pitches 1(o/s), 3(o/s), 5(small slip/big whipper just before belay) and aided 7. I led 2 (o/s), 4(o/s), 6 (stood on #5cam by mistake) and 8. Marvelous and exhausting day out.
Fultonius - AltLd - 24/Sep/13 with James Sutton

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Mar/13

To half way ledge
Adam Booth - AltLd - 23/Sep/12 with Ed Booth

led up to midway ledge. Couple of falls on the main crack pitch up high. Lowered off as was all day knackt and bailed off ledge.
Ed Booth - Lead - 23/Sep/12 with Adam Booth

Onsighted all my pitches (1, 2, 3.5, 4, 5, 6.5 (ow), 7 & 8), partner used some french free on his leads. Long day, excellent route.
tuukka - AltLd - 13/Sep/12 with Henrik

spidey - AltLd dog - 08/Oct/11 with ryan p

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/11

sent with no gear bigger than a 3 camalot. amit onsighted it.... very slowly. really hot. propper shit show from parties above!
markalmack - AltLd rpt - 30/Sep/10 with amit tawfik

Still had problems on the offwidth pitch. Fell on the alien finish.
markalmack - AltLd dog - 24/Sep/10

Maybe the best trad route I've climbed. Pitches 4, 6 and 7 were the hardest. (Easy to do the ab approach down in bare feet or in climbing shoes, you can stash food and drink at the halfway ledge on the way down.)
AdrianP - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Olli

Led 2,3,4,6,8. Pitches 1-4 11/09, ran out of water. Pitches 4-8 13/09. My personal finest climbing achievement. That was my first ever 5.10 OW. Hard work. Awesome.
DavidEvans - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09 with adam ellwood

Amazing route! Would love to return for a clean ascent. Fell on the crux pitch and in the 10a offwidth!
highlux - AltLd dog - Sep/09

i hate off widths!!!!
markalmack - Lead dog - Sep/08 with federico pisani

superb! best climb ever
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/07 with Mills

Toby Dunn - Oct/07 with dustin

keefe - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/04

Completely awesome. Enjoyed every pitch. Picth 7 was one of the best pitches I've ever done. Steep and demanding. Great seconding effort by Viv.
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Aug/02 with Viv

sadams - AltLd - Oct/99 with John Boyle

shark - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Brad Carter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/84

At the time we attempted this, only Ray Jardine had freeclimbed the last pitch (and some locals found this hard to believe) so were unsurprised to find we had to aid it. Otherwise a brilliant route, hats off to those who solo it now!
petemeads - AltLd - Oct/78 with Andy Parkin

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ChrisDuDirtbag, ashtond6, Timothy Miller, misterb, stuart34, Dr Caterpillar, French Erick, joe larner

Voting
Total votes cast 4
hard 5.11d0 of 1
5.11d0 of 1
easy 5.11d0 of 1
hard 5.11c1 of 1
5.11c0 of 1
easy 5.11c0 of 1
hard 5.11b0 of 1
5.11b0 of 1
easy 5.11b0 of 1
3 Stars3 of 3
2 Stars0 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
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