300m, 8 pitches. One of the finest crack climbs in the valley. 8 pitches of sustained jamming of all sizes on flawless rock.

Pitch 1. 5.9. Layback flake to chimney.

Pitch 2, Left Variation. 5.11a. Step down and left to the thin crack and follow it to the upper, easier crack.

Pitch 2, Centre Variation. 5.10a. Lieback the flake (unprotected without large cams) above the belay eventually joining the left variation. Best choice if you want to link first two pitches.

Pitch 2, Right Variation. 5.10d. Climb the flare through a brief crux before traversing left into the upper crack of the first two variations.

Pitch 3. 5.10c. A polished lieback of the belay leads to varied jamming / liebacking for almost a full rope length. Finishes on a broad ledge.

Pitch 4. 5.11c. The obvious finger crack is one of the cruxes of the route. Follow this for 20m to a bolted belay, but don't stop here. Traverse left, and follow the right facing corner to another bolted belay.

Pitch 5. 5.10d. A long clean thin hands crack in a corner leads to a roof. Lieback around the roof and step left to gain a sloping ledge and a belay.

Pitch 6. 5.10a. Make a traverse rightwards off the belay to gain a good crack. Follow this as it widens to an off width. At the top of the off width gain a ledge, (usually caked in bird droppings) on the right.

Pitch 7. 5.11b. Up a hands/big hands crack with a difficult crux. This leads eventually to a ledge under a large roof. Belay here.

Pitch 8. 5.9. Traverse the ledge rightwards (probably through more bird droppings) to the base of a wide crack. A difficult entry move leads to easier climbing. This pitch can be protected with a #6 BD camalot, but it is easy to lose this cam deep in the crack. Alternatively finish directly through the roof (Alien).

Glen Denny, Warren Harding (FA 7/62). Ron Kauk, John Yablonski (FFA to last pitch). Kim Carrigan et al. (FFA, all pitches) 1985

Andy Moles 09/Oct AltLd
with Ferdia
sparkass 02/Sep AltLd

Managed to onsight everything and take all the harder variants, except one fall on the 10a offwidth. Gutted to blight an otherwise flawless ascent. All incredible, one of the most consistently good routes I have ever done. Top offwidth has visibly eaten multiple cams so a 30 metre runout keeps the interest right until the end.

mshorter ?/Sep AltLd

All onsight apart from the second easiest pitch on paper - the 5.10a off width struggle. Took the harder variation on the second pitch and second last pitch. Mega

with dunc
Hidden ?/Sep AltLd rpt
markalmack 30/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Found this harder than I remember, especially the offwidth. Hands were sore today. Wasn't loving the hand jams like I usually do.

with Catalyn
Fultonius 24/Sep/13 AltLd

James led Pitches 1(o/s), 3(o/s), 5(small slip/big whipper just before belay) and aided 7. I led 2 (o/s), 4(o/s), 6 (stood on #5cam by mistake) and 8. Marvelous and exhausting day out.

with James Sutton
Hidden ?/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
Adam Booth 23/Sep/12 AltLd

To half way ledge

Ed Booth 23/Sep/12 Lead

led up to midway ledge. Couple of falls on the main crack pitch up high. Lowered off as was all day knackt and bailed off ledge.

tuukka 13/Sep/12 AltLd

Onsighted all my pitches (1, 2, 3.5, 4, 5, 6.5 (ow), 7 & 8), partner used some french free on his leads. Long day, excellent route.

with Henrik
spidey 08/Oct/11 AltLd dog
with ryan p
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
markalmack 30/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

sent with no gear bigger than a 3 camalot. amit onsighted it.... very slowly. really hot. propper shit show from parties above!

with amit tawfik
markalmack 24/Sep/10 AltLd dog

Still had problems on the offwidth pitch. Fell on the alien finish.

AdrianP 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Maybe the best trad route I've climbed. Pitches 4, 6 and 7 were the hardest. (Easy to do the ab approach down in bare feet or in climbing shoes, you can stash food and drink at the halfway ledge on the way down.)

with Olli
DavidEvans 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2,3,4,6,8. Pitches 1-4 11/09, ran out of water. Pitches 4-8 13/09. My personal finest climbing achievement. That was my first ever 5.10 OW. Hard work. Awesome.

highlux ?/Sep/09 AltLd dog

Amazing route! Would love to return for a clean ascent. Fell on the crux pitch and in the 10a offwidth!

markalmack ?/Sep/08 Lead dog

i hate off widths!!!!

with federico pisani
IOAN D 31/Oct/07 Lead O/S

superb! best climb ever

with Mills
Toby Dunn ?/Oct/07 -
with dustin
keefe 02/Apr/04 Lead O/S
redjerry 17/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Josh Horniak
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Completely awesome. Enjoyed every pitch. Picth 7 was one of the best pitches I've ever done. Steep and demanding. Great seconding effort by Viv.

with Viv
sadams ?/Oct/99 AltLd
with John Boyle
shark ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Brad Carter
Hidden ?/May/84 AltLd O/S
petemeads ?/Oct/78 AltLd

At the time we attempted this, only Ray Jardine had freeclimbed the last pitch (and some locals found this hard to believe) so were unsurprised to find we had to aid it. Otherwise a brilliant route, hats off to those who solo it now!

with Andy Parkin
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Andy Moles, ChrisDuDirtbag, tim newton, Hidden, ashtond6, Timothy Miller, misterb, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, French Erick, joe larner
High 5.11d
Mid 5.11d
Low 5.11d
High 5.11c
Mid 5.11c
Low 5.11c
High 5.11b
Mid 5.11b
Low 5.11b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set