1000m, 35 pitches. VI 5.9 C2

The 'Hollow Flake' offwidth deters the crowds.
Todd Skinner & Paul Piana freed it in retrospectively controversial yo-yo style in 1988 over 48 days. Redpointed by Huber in 1995. Nearly onsighted by Yuji Hirayama in 1997.

FFA Todd Skinner, Paul Piana 1988

Ticklists: 15 Climbs to do before you die.


ClimberDateStyle
timjones 26/May AltLd dnf

Did the Freeblast and then rapped to wait out 3 days of poor weather. Went back up and bailed after 2 nights from the top of pitch 22 due to congestion on the route and yet another storm. retreat was relatively easy, we rapped straight down from the top of the Hollow Flake, 60 m ropes allowed us to find equipped rap stations all the way to the floor.

with Jeff Witt, Keith Hadley
sparkass 07/Sep/15 AltLd

3 nights, all at an angle. Managed to free loads, about 75% and onsight up to 11c. Aaron was incredible in the hollow flake, unprotected throughout, and the Ear too - mega. Aid pitches were all great with the crux being the pitch below the roof. I free'd the 'worst pitch of the route' - the sewer, which would be a three star Classic in the UK and had to dyno the last move. Freeing pitches right at the top of the Captain was also mega. Held up by a party above, I feel we delt with it well and had a pretty chilled ascent.

with Aaron Rotchadl, Mike Shorter
Joughton 07/Sep/15 AltLd

My first Big Wall. Freed Freeblast minus a slip on each of the slab pitches. Then fixed and hauled up to heart ledges after a rest day, spending nights on El Cap Spire and Long Ledge, unfortunately slowed down a bit by the party in front. Very pleased with the amount I managed to free, including a couple of the crux aid pitches, which meant I could do more than my share of pitches despite my aid inexperience. The pitch above 'The Block' was particularly memorable at E4ish with amazing exposure. The scariest part was watching dad do Hollow Flakes, absolutely terrifying... all in all though, a much more enjoyable experience than I was lead to beleive I would have!

mshorter ?/Sep/15 AltLd

3 nights on the wall. managed to free about 75% of the route.

with akon, dunc
Little AndyH 18/Sep/13 AltLd
Zoomer 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Did first 2/3 pitches as aid practice with 2 novices. Aid was ok but top belay was painful!

scott mayled 26/Aug/13 AltLd
with zoomer
thebigeasy 02/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

Abbed from around pitch 33 after the roof. Fixed copper heads had blown and didn't have the gear. Retreat down not as bad as expected.

Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/11 2nd dnf
stuart34 16/Sep/11 AltLd dnf

16 - 17th Hauled to heart on the 15th, did freeblast clean on the 16th ten bailed after P16. Led P 2, 5, 7, 9, 14, 15. Freed P 1, 2, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 14.

with Amos Swanson
markalmack 11/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Free rider. Attempted free ascent. couldn't send the monster or the boulder problem. ran out of energy after the enduro corner, so bailed. will be back when in better shape tro send!!

with amit tawfik
colesy 06/Sep/10 AltLd dog

Hard work, amazing position. I took the free pitches up to 5.11with Shane leading the aid. Although I did enyoy the 1 C1+ pitch I led, I've concluded that fast and free is the way, aiding sucks bum, heavy and slow. Certainly wouldn't have got up without it though!

Barry Kerslake 02/Sep/10 2nd dnf
with Luke F
ShaneHoubart ?/Aug/10 -
Hidden 10/Jun/10 AltLd
greenclimb 18/Sep/09 Lead dnf

failed above hollow flake

Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Toby Dunn ?/Oct/07 -
with dustin
chrisbevins ?/Jul/07 AltLd
Peter Rhodes ?/Jun/07 AltLd dog
with Josh Cook, Nik Vukovich
chrishedgehog 19/May/06 AltLd dnf

The worst team ever to set foot on rock?! Amazing experience but weren't "more than the sum of the parts". In fact, quite the opposite!

with S. Mead
alpinist63 ?/Jul/03 -

5.10/C1

tuftynick ?/Oct/01 AltLd
with Kenton Cool
AlexRenshaw ?/Jun/91 AltLd

Free-climbed first day and then anything less than 5.11

frank ramsay ??/1991 AltLd

Storm on headwall made it very exciting.

Hidden ?/Aug/84 AltLd
charlesmfrench ?/Aug/84 AltLd dog
with Keith Milne
petemeads ?/Oct/78 AltLd O/S

4 day ascent using situ gear, Friends & one hand-placed peg. Brilliant weather, sleeping ledges and good company. The Headwall and the offwidth flake were the highlights.

with Howard Johnson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matthew Davies, RobBrooks, DanOsb, DanChad, keith_duncan, jrobbings, tim newton, Mozzy, Alex Munnery, Munir Hassan, Hidden, dan wisey, Andypandyroo, Hidden, stemill, Hidden, tommytuffa, CM1992, GeorgeWoodward, Alex90, Hidden, Hidden, tom.ireson, Hidden, Hidden, chrisjacks, Gambit, mic_b, snoopyloop, Dan Lane, Hidden, markalmack, BicepAndrews, Hidden, chiverstom, Hidden, joe larner, Dave Searle, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High 5.13d
Mid 5.13d
Low 5.13d
High 5.13c
Mid 5.13c
Low 5.13c
High 5.13b
Mid 5.13b
Low 5.13b
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set