Devon > Lundy >
 
American Beauty*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< You Know What You Should Do
 
American Shrapnel >>
[Pete on third pitch, 
American Beauty, Lundy, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Pete on third pitch, American Beauty, Lundy © Ian Harryman
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 149 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

A great adventurous route. We abseiled in to the ledges at high tide, saw lots of seals in the zawn and sea cave! I led throughout, good varied climbing, with some especially nice slab sections. Unfortunately broken up by ledges.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13 with Dave Linnett, Emily

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 23/Sep/13 with Emily Darley, Nick Russell

Lead P1 & 2. Great route, I don't know why but I was expecting it to be harder
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/13 with Sarah Flint

Lead the top pitch- A boulder problem VERY high up.
fishinwater - AltLd - 23/Sep/13 with Al Begley

Hidden - AltLd RP - 20/Sep/13

Melanie Parkin - 2nd dog - 11/Sep/13 with Stephen Tomlinson

Led P2
khalidq - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/13 with Chris Colebrook

P2
Justin T - AltLd - 10/Sep/13 with Nancy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/13

Led main pitch
cem - AltLd rpt - 02/Sep/13 with Vaughan Hewett

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/13

We ab'ed right down to the boulders, rather than to the described ledge. Climbing back up to the initial ledge involved some very committing 4c climbing on damp with spaced gear. Anna lead the main pitch.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Anna Kennedy

annak - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Lee Harrison

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/13

It rained so much harder. Alex was the hero in the wet on the second pitch
gowla - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/12 with Alex Burns

Outstanding.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with gwilym

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 17/Sep/12

A good route and a good option for a windy day with a big swell as the wall turned out to be sheltered from both. Nicely varied climbing. P1 is worth a solid HVS 4c due to hard and poorly protected 4c moves at the start, though it relents higher up. P2 is the money pitch, really good and varied climbing. Beware the dodgy block on the overhang - don't belay right under it! P3 is jugtastic and the veggie top out is fun. Led P1&3.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/12 with Ed

Lead P2. Awesome route, almost straight up for 90m. Climbing is pretty straightforward, loads of great slab and crack climbing but the overlap and corner give great variety. The large block above the overlap seems solid at the moment but doesn't actually seem to be attached by anything more than a thin seam of soil and force of habit. Be careful of this, it would obliterate the belayer if (when?) it falls.
eduardo - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/12 with Misha

Led P1 and 3, Patrick led P2.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Patrick Goodwin

paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd - 13/Sep/12 with Marianne Khoo

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/12 with steve read

givemetea - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Dan Gibson

RD P1 and P3
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Sarah

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/12 with roslyn mckendry

Kaiser999 - AltLd - Sep/12 with Jim

Becky backed off first pitch so ended up leading all pitches. Brilliant climb, despite looking like a pile of overgrown crap when you approach it does what is says in the guide and climbs the cleanest best line on the slab.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Becky E

Aborted attempt to lead P1 - too bold for me. Excellent route.
Becky E - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond

Pitch 2
oliverk - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Dan

Incredibly hot day so glad it was so easy.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Rear-Admiral Adrian (Proctor)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

Amazing!. I love zawns, I love slabs, and i love the film. the second pitch is the highlight.
Alex the Alex - AltLd O/S - Aug/12

Hidden - 2012

Led first and third pitches
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Rich Rogers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/11

Verry good climb
jordan graham - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11

led pitch 2
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 23/Sep/11 with Paul

Just us and the seals and the sea grass. Superb. Led P1 and 3.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Tim

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Nancy Jones

gripped01 - Lead - Sep/11 with Martin Bohl

Lead 1st & 2nd pitches. Great fun, but hot tho!
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Ashley Mellor, Dan Lane

Led P2. Brilliant route and much cleaner than it appears from a distance, thankfully!
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Ash Mellor, Alex Thompson

ashmellor - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with alex thompson, Dan lane

photo in new guide is misleading - cross overhang well to the right
evhall - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Cutts

kdalzell - 2nd - 26/Aug/11 with Liam Fleming

Excellent adventure! Led 2nd pitch. Not too run out at all I felt ...
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Tom Lambert

timtimpeggy - AltLd - Aug/11

Led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 difficult to protect adequately. Pitch 2 neat footwork and very careful rope work required. Pitch 3 straightforward, once my second pointed out the big obvious holds which I had been blind to initially. Very atmospheric and committing, and a great route.
Alaric - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/10 with Lou

Fantastic route on small, crimpy, solid, positive holds. All the pitches are worthwhile. Pitch 2 is the cream (my lead). With good footwork its easy to stay in balance. The crux is in the moves on the parallel crack to the overlap. Pulling through the overlap is the easy bit. Good ropework is needed to avoid drag and make sure your second is safe. Climbed with Paul C.
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/10

Led p2 - superb but more exciting as wet! It seems a first E1 lead too :-)
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10 with hugh

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10

Led P1 & 3. Via the original approach. At a very low tide this is far from harrowing, and really enhances the feeling of isolation and committment on the slab. Awesome. The crux was wet, but the climbing brilliant throughout. One of the best HVS experiences out there.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/10

Lead Pitch one and three. feels like a big route with good moves through the overlap - a touch damp in places though.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Remus Knowles

Kevster - AltLd - Sep/10

steve2006 - 2nd - Sep/10 with Ann Blandford

Alex T (RAFMA) - Sep/10 with Rimon

led pitch 1 and 3
Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Richard

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Tim

P2
gareth r - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/09 with John Jones

Led middle pitch (5a) Good spot for seals
Joris.Roulleau - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/09 with Hamish Rose

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Sep/09

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Steve Grove

P3. Didn't do first pitch.
dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Mark Nicholson

Led all 3 pitches. Excellent second pitch.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/09 with Gavin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/09

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Stew Boyce

all 3 pitches, I thought P1 quite tough but many lines possible. Solid HVS and fun with it
lithos - Lead - 19/Aug/09

Led P2. Very steady at the grade
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Martin Hore

Spillers - 2nd - Aug/09 with Stavvy

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Sep/08

100m abseil into ledge. Led 2nd pitch. Wet crux.
DafSWMC - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Hash

P1 and 3
hash - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with DafSWMC

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/08

awesome ab in , led p1, slowed down by showers of hail , mike had the worst of it on p2,..force 8 all day but sheltered in grand falls zawn
rockpool - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/08 with mick porter, ian pegg

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/08

Not sure why this gets E1. Felt pretty straightforward at HVS.
James B - AltLd - 24/Aug/08 with Nigel

jelaby - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with notgnarly

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Aug/08

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/08 with Helen Alderson

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/07

Hold came away in my hand at start of second pitch - fell 3m to ledge and broke my leg. Ow.
Ed Babs - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/07 with Kate

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2007

erica - 2nd - 14/Sep/06 with John

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/06 with Erica

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Mike Hayes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/06

davebrox - Lead - Sep/06 with Ann Fisher

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/06

An E1 experience, but found the climbing pretty straight forward
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/06 with Kate

Katex - 2nd - 24/Aug/06 with Chris Moor

RMR climbed from the zawn bottom after wading across. E1 when climbed
Marq - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/06 with Ruth Creamer

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/05

Bella - 2nd O/S - Sep/05 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/05

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Hugh

Led p 1 & 3
cem - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/04 with Sally Dipple

Hidden - Lead - Aug/04

Digger - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/03 with James Latham

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/03

led final pitch
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/02 with Andrew Wielochowski

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/02 with Graham Dolman

tapley - Lead - 16/Aug/02 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - AltLd - 2001

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/99

WB - AltLd O/S - Sep/99 with Guy

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

Lead 2nd pitch.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/98 with Steve Newman, Nick Hanie

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/98

andy_pemberton - AltLd - Aug/98 with Rik Meek

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Sep/97

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/97

Hidden - Lead - 1997

lead p1 &3
colin milton - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/96 with eric milton

Steve Lenartowicz - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

mikej - AltLd - 01/Sep/94 with Mike Byles

AlanLittle - Lead - 01/Jun/93 with John Hynes

RichardMc - AltLd - Sep/92 with John Evans

Hidden - Aug/92

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/91 with Jonathan (MoB)

Done again in 1993 and 1995. Terrific and enjoyable HVS.
eroica64 - AltLd - Sep/90 with Denis Crampton

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 05/Aug/90 with Steve Webster

Mike Owen - 03/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Led 1st & 3rd pitches. Quite easy for the grade.
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jul/89 with Alan Payne

andy gittins - 1988

rogerskews - 27/Sep/87 with Martin Coward

Tom V - Aug/86

Hidden - 1984

Pete Nugent - AltLd - Aug/83 with Liz Rugg

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/82 with John Evans

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Robin Woodward, RFWilkie, Skip, Julian Lane, Hidden, Hidden, Mike Nolan, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, The Ivanator, Tala M, woodsy, Ian Jones, Dan Lane, Hidden, dansmonkeytroubles, Hidden, Ybot Htulk, Peter Metcalfe, Fatclimber, Alan100, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Master Chief, jak.kelly, rob askew, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 114
hard E10 of 22
E10 of 22
easy E10 of 22
hard HVS1 of 22
HVS18 of 22
easy HVS3 of 22
hard VS0 of 22
VS0 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 47
5b0 of 47
easy 5b0 of 47
hard 5a3 of 47
5a38 of 47
easy 5a5 of 47
hard 4c1 of 47
4c0 of 47
easy 4c0 of 47
3 Stars40 of 45
2 Stars4 of 45
1 Star1 of 45
0 Stars0 of 45
Bag of .....0 of 45
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead27 of 149 (18.1%)
Followed15 of 149 (10.1%)
Alt Leads92 of 149 (61.7%)
Unknown15 of 149 (10.1%)

'Climbed'61 of 149 (40.9%)
clean O/S80 of 149 (53.7%)
clean rpt5 of 149 (3.4%)
clean RP1 of 149 (0.7%)
dogged1 of 149 (0.7%)
dnf1 of 149 (0.7%)