105m, 3 pitches. An excellent outing, one of the most popular climbs on the main cliff. This route takes the line up behind the huge detached pillar capped by a large bridging flake (visible from the ground) and trends leftward across the wall above. Start at the foot of the crack to the right of a small collapsed column, about 150m left of the Fang.
1) 45m (5a). Climb the crack and chimney to a ledge at 12m. Move up left to climb the crack between the main column and the wall, continue by chimneying between the column wall, passing a ledge on the right at 36m. Continue up with a slight increase in difficulty to a good ledge on the right.
2) 30m (5b). Move up and left airily to gain the top of the detached column and flake. Across the flake to the wall, then an awkward move up the wall brings jugs and a ledge on the right. Climb the short wall on the left moving in from the right (crux) continue up the thin crack to the ramp. Easier climbing leads to a large ledge. Climb a short awkward groove to exit right onto a large ramp, move back left to a good ledge.
3) 30m (5a). Climb the ramp and make an awkward move left to small ledges. Go up right to a corner crack, follow this to a belay on the ledge (possible belay). Climb the steep crack in the final wall.

C Torrans, C Sheridan 15/Jan/1976

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, MIA logbook must haves!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Ireland 3 Star E1-E2.

zcsharp 18/Jul Lead O/S

Lead all the pitches. Completely forgot bridging existed on the first picth and found it harder than the 5b pitch, but some of the best belays i have ever had on a multipitch route.

with Andrew Woods
5eamuz 14/Jul AltLd O/S

Very enjoyable, led pitch two and John did 1 and 3.

with John Holterman
Tubs 13/Jun AltLd O/S

Superb. The fist pitch is the best and totally wild. Long.

with Max
Hidden 11/Jun AltLd
khalidq 09/Jun AltLd O/S

I led P1, P3. Great adventure. Actually I slipped on the very initial off width bit of P1. I belay on the top pedestal just before the P2 crux.

Pippa 08/Jun Lead dnf

***Backed off start, cold windy and damp, very intimidating

Hidden ?/May Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/14 AltLd
Bry 15/Sep/14 AltLd

HUNGOVER. Started late. Took a while to locate the ab (the walk-in looks an effort). Intimidated by the 90m ab and general MASSIVENESS of the crag. The initial offwidth was DESPERATE (looking at Quiddity’s photo, we might have taken the wrong line, but we followed the line on the topo in the new guide). After much whimpering, cursing and laughing (and having sworn to always wear the gear on a bandolier for any future chimney ascents), I arrived on the first platform exhausted and belayed there (pitch 1 in the new guide continues, but it looked like the ropes would drag a fair bit - unless you are meant to go up the cleft to the right of the one we did). Our second pitch (still pitch 1 in the new guide) was THE PITCH – cool bridging between the detached column and the main wall. Then 3 more pitches (2 in the new guide) - cool moves onto the top of the detached pillar, some finger locks up the wall which form the technical crux, some slabby rambling, a VERY AWKWARD step left, a nice offwidth, and a final sting-in-the-tail crack up the headwall. Topped out at dusk. MEGA.

Alex McCalman ?/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Owen lead the pitch, which felt run out, but very enjoyable on second. I started up the second pitch, and had just done the fun (if more than a little bit terrifying) 'airy' step onto the detached pillar when it started to get dark. So began a night of abseiling in the dark, getting a rope stuck, walking out in pitch black, with one head torch between us. Eventually got back to Belfast at 2:30am.

bik 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I did the first and the third pitch, Gleb the second. The crux for me was the squeeze chimney at the very bottom - awkward and hard to protect. The best pitch is the second, fun face climbing with a couple of short runouts.

with Gleb
soph 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
morganator 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Cool bridging

Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Misha 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Took ages to get to this along an indistinct path in the heather but it was well worth it. A great route with a memorable first pitch which was the most fun I've had on a route for a while! Someone referred to it in an earlier log as demented caterpillar chimneying - that's about right! Insane whole body jamming through the cleft, more like caving than climbing, eventually popping out through the top of the cleft back into daylight. Now all that remained was 25 metres of jamming, bridging, chimneying and back and footing. Really good fun, I've never done so much of that style of climbing in one go. Not sure if it's 4c as it's ungradeable really, let's just say it's traditional and J W Puttrell would have pissed up it in his tweeds while smoking a pipe. Great belay at the top of the right hand pillar, though those with a truly adventurous spirit should perhaps belay at the top of the detached pillar off the collapsed flake. How on earth is that thing managing to stay upright, considering the pillar seems to have snapped at the bottom?! Still, the thing must weight about the same as a herd of elephants, so a bit of back and footing shouldn't disturb it too much! Ed got the crux pitch, making a very passable whale impression getting onto the detached pillar and spending a while on the crux, which was steady 5b. For me the real crux was getting out of the awkward groove onto the green ramp as by then it had started to rain and the green livery was getting pretty slippery. I got the best pitch of them all, the ramp covered in green yukiness, in the rain. I haven't put so much gear into a 4a pitch for a while! Great couple of moves going up at the end of the ramp with a 60+ metre bottomless corner below you... and wet handholds. :-0 Linked in the last pitch, which was a sandbag at 4c - I thought it had a solid 5a move just above the belay ledge, but at least it was mostly dry. Phew, made it, what an adventure! Six and a half hours round trip from starting to gear up to getting back to the gearing up spot. By the way, P1 is 40-42m, not 52 as in the guide book. The others are correct at 30m for P2 and 30m again for P3&4. That'll be a hundred in total, so equivalent to about 27 gritstone routes or 1,579 boulder problems. Translation: The Secret Way

with Ed
eduardo 20/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Rested on gear before I figured out the crux on the 2nd pitch. Awesome route!

with Misha
Andy Moles 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with James McKenna
mcgovern 10/Jul/13 AltLd
TommyMcG 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/13 AltLd
Paul Collins 03/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Really really cool route, all the pitches are deadly!

Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/13 TR
newtonmore ??/2013 -
liamo333 ??/2013 -
deepdiver ??/2013 Lead O/S

First pitch 5a. Well protected in terms of off width/chimney climbing. No needs for big cams. Take few slings for chockstones instead. Must be done!!!

uphillnow 07/Aug/12 AltLd

Memorable first pitch

with Dave Booth
danoflynn 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch, face climbing crux was much more my style than the chimney below! Fantastic route!

with Tim Leach
matthewjames 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led the 2nd route. Awesome route! Standing on a flake rested on top of a 50m pedestal is incredible!

with Boothy
Helen Gibson 14/Jun/12 AltLd

led 1st pitch.. amazing pitch.

with mikey P, Paul
Hidden 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S

one of the best E1's anywhere

with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 14/Jun/12 2nd dog
with Dan Gibson
GarethHall 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Epic! Led 1st and last 2 pitches strung together

paddygoodwinlondon 08/Jun/12 AltLd
with Gareth Hall
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
RKernan 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 3. Great fun, superb chimneying

with John Begley
KKilroy ??/2012 Lead
metal arms 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
JulesV 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Second mistake of the trip was deciding to keep my approach shoes on for the first pitch of this.

with Shauna
Shauna 09/Jul/11 2nd

total craziness

with Jules
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd
gnc760 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with Rose Williams
Rose Williams 07/Aug/10 2nd
with Gareth
jamesbrown 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

my first E1 at the head. a real epic adventure! first pitch is crazy! climbing not particularly hard but 50m of it! Class! crux on the second pitch is airy but holds are small and positive. even the last pitch is truly superb!!!!

with Michael murphy
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd
chillax ?/Jun/10 -
Alex@home ?/May/10 AltLd O/S

fantastic. just do it. don't take any beta or preconceptions as they'll only spoil it

with The Doctor
Gibson27 ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/09 AltLd
givemetea 27/Jun/09 AltLd RP

Went off route on first pitch and backed off, led pitches 3 and 4 in one. First pitch is crazy, chimneying to the top of the broken pillar at 12 metres then moving left to the crack and corner, laybacking and back and footing up this ... and it goes on for over 40 metres!

with Nick Sexton and Keith
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Ri ??/2009 Lead O/S
datoon 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with RT & JB
Nigel Coe 25/Jun/05 AltLd
with Amnon
cornishben ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Ian Butterworth
Les Ross 07/May/00 AltLd

Cool 1st pitch

with Mickey McCann
auld al ?/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/91 2nd dog
pingora 26/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
with John H
rogerskews 26/May/90 -

demented catapillar chimneying required!!

with Bryn Roberts
John HW ??/1986 AltLd O/S
with Dave Evans
Hammy 31/Jul/80 -
with Rob Lawson
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