I did the first and the third pitch, Gleb the second. The crux for me was the squeeze chimney at the very bottom - awkward and hard to protect.
The best pitch is the second, fun face climbing with a couple of short runouts. bik - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Gleb
soph - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with jon morgan
morganator - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Sophie Whyte
Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/13
Took ages to get to this along an indistinct path in the heather but it was well worth it. A great route with a memorable first pitch which was the most fun I've had on a route for a while! Someone referred to it in an earlier log as demented caterpillar chimneying - that's about right! Insane whole body jamming through the cleft, more like caving than climbing, eventually popping out through the top of the cleft back into daylight. Now all that remained was 25 metres of jamming, bridging, chimneying and back and footing. Really good fun, I've never done so much of that style of climbing in one go. Not sure if it's 4c as it's ungradeable really, let's just say it's traditional and J W Puttrell would have pissed up it in his tweeds while smoking a pipe. Great belay at the top of the right hand pillar, though those with a truly adventurous spirit should perhaps belay at the top of the detached pillar off the collapsed flake. How on earth is that thing managing to stay upright, considering the pillar seems to have snapped at the bottom?! Still, the thing must weight about the same as a herd of elephants, so a bit of back and footing shouldn't disturb it too much! Ed got the crux pitch, making a very passable whale impression getting onto the detached pillar and spending a while on the crux, which was steady 5b. For me the real crux was getting out of the awkward groove onto the green ramp as by then it had started to rain and the green livery was getting pretty slippery. I got the best pitch of them all, the ramp covered in green yukiness, in the rain. I haven't put so much gear into a 4a pitch for a while! Great couple of moves going up at the end of the ramp with a 60+ metre bottomless corner below you... and wet handholds. :-0 Linked in the last pitch, which was a sandbag at 4c - I thought it had a solid 5a move just above the belay ledge, but at least it was mostly dry. Phew, made it, what an adventure! Six and a half hours round trip from starting to gear up to getting back to the gearing up spot. By the way, P1 is 40-42m, not 52 as in the guide book. The others are correct at 30m for P2 and 30m again for P3&4. That'll be a hundred in total, so equivalent to about 27 gritstone routes or 1,579 boulder problems. Translation: The Secret Way
Misha - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Ed
Rested on gear before I figured out the crux on the 2nd pitch.
eduardo - AltLd dog - 20/Aug/13 with Misha
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with James McKenna
mcgovern - AltLd - 10/Jul/13 with TommyMcG
TommyMcG - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Conor McGovern
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13
Hidden - TR - Jun/13
newtonmore - 2013
liamo333 - 2013 with mcgovern
First pitch 5a. Well protected in terms of off width/chimney climbing. No needs for big cams. Take few slings for chockstones instead. Must be done!!!
deepdiver - Lead O/S - 2013
Memorable first pitch
David Smith - AltLd - 07/Aug/12 with Dave Booth
Led second pitch, face climbing crux was much more my style than the chimney below! Fantastic route!
danoflynn - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Tim Leach
Led the 2nd route. Awesome route! Standing on a flake rested on top of a 50m pedestal is incredible!
matthewjames - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Boothy
led 1st pitch.. amazing pitch.
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 14/Jun/12 with mikey P, Paul
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12
one of the best E1's anywhere
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12 with julie carroll
Julie Carroll - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/12 with Dan Gibson
Epic! Led 1st and last 2 pitches strung together
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Patrick Goodwin
paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd - 08/Jun/12 with Gareth Hall
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12
Led P1 and 3. Great fun, superb chimneying
RKernan - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/12 with John Begley
KKilroy - Lead - 2012
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11
Second mistake of the trip was deciding to keep my approach shoes on for the first pitch of this.
JulesV - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Shauna
Shauna - 2nd - 09/Jul/11 with Jules
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/11
Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Rose Williams
Rose Williams - 2nd - 07/Aug/10 with Gareth
my first E1 at the head. a real epic adventure! first pitch is crazy! climbing not particularly hard but 50m of it! Class! crux on the second pitch is airy but holds are small and positive. even the last pitch is truly superb!!!!
jamesbrown - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Michael murphy
georgec - AltLd - 12/Jun/10 with Geoff S
chillax - Jun/10
fantastic. just do it. don't take any beta or preconceptions as they'll only spoil it
Alex@home - AltLd O/S - May/10 with The Doctor
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - 2010
Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/09
Went off route on first pitch and backed off, led pitches 3 and 4 in one. First pitch is crazy, chimneying to the top of the broken pillar at 12 metres then moving left to the crack and corner, laybacking and back and footing up this ... and it goes on for over 40 metres!
givemetea - AltLd RP - 27/Jun/09 with Nick Sexton and Keith
grand day out. backed off the lead on pitch 1, seconded kevin & ros up the route. Absolute madness.
Quiddity - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with kevin, Roslyn McKendry
Ri - Lead O/S - 2009
datoon - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/06 with RT & JB
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 25/Jun/05 with Andy March
cornishben - AltLd O/S - Jun/05 with Ian Butterworth
Cool 1st pitch
Les Ross - AltLd - 07/May/00 with Mickey McCann
auld al - AltLd O/S - Apr/93
Hidden - 2nd dog - Jun/91
demented catapillar chimneying required!!
rogerskews - 26/May/90 with Bryn Roberts
John HW - AltLd O/S - 1986 with Dave Evans
Hammy - 31/Jul/80 with Rob Lawson