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An Bealach Rúnda*** E1 5b

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[An Bealach Runda again, more chimneying!!, 2 kb]105m, 3 pitches. An excellent outing, one of the most popular climbs on the main cliff. This route takes the line up behind the huge detached pillar capped by a large bridging flake (visible from the ground) and trends leftward across the wall above. Start at the foot of the crack to the right of a small collapsed column, about 150m left of the Fang. 1) 45m (5a). Climb the crack and chimney to a ledge at 12m. Move up left to climb the crack between the main column and the wall, continue by chimneying between the column wall, passing a ledge on the right at 36m. Continue up with a slight increase in difficulty to a good ledge on the right. 2) 30m (5b). Move up and left airily to gain the top of the detached column and flake. Across the flake to the wall, then an awkward move up the wall brings jugs and a ledge on the right. Climb the short wall on the left moving in from the right (crux) continue up the thin crack to the ramp. Easier climbing leads to a large ledge. Climb a short awkward groove to exit right onto a large ramp, move back left to a good ledge. 3) 30m (5a). Climb the ramp and make an awkward move left to small ledges. Go up right to a corner crack, follow this to a belay on the ledge (possible belay). Climb the steep crack in the final wall.
C Torrans, C Sheridan 15/Jan/1976

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, MIA logbook must haves!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2.

Photo: An Bealach Runda again, more chimneying!! © datoon
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 50 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/13

Took ages to get to this along an indistinct path in the heather but it was well worth it. A great route with a memorable first pitch which was the most fun I've had on a route for a while! Someone referred to it in an earlier log as demented caterpillar chimneying - that's about right! Insane whole body jamming through the cleft, more like caving than climbing, eventually popping out through the top of the cleft back into daylight. Now all that remained was 25 metres of jamming, bridging, chimneying and back and footing. Really good fun, I've never done so much of that style of climbing in one go. Not sure if it's 4c as it's ungradeable really, let's just say it's traditional and J W Puttrell would have pissed up it in his tweeds while smoking a pipe. Great belay at the top of the right hand pillar, though those with a truly adventurous spirit should perhaps belay at the top of the detached pillar off the collapsed flake. How on earth is that thing managing to stay upright, considering the pillar seems to have snapped at the bottom?! Still, the thing must weight about the same as a herd of elephants, so a bit of back and footing shouldn't disturb it too much! Ed got the crux pitch, making a very passable whale impression getting onto the detached pillar and spending a while on the crux, which was steady 5b. For me the real crux was getting out of the awkward groove onto the green ramp as by then it had started to rain and the green livery was getting pretty slippery. I got the best pitch of them all, the ramp covered in green yukiness, in the rain. I haven't put so much gear into a 4a pitch for a while! Great couple of moves going up at the end of the ramp with a 60+ metre bottomless corner below you... and wet handholds. :-0 Linked in the last pitch, which was a sandbag at 4c - I thought it had a solid 5a move just above the belay ledge, but at least it was mostly dry. Phew, made it, what an adventure! Six and a half hours round trip from starting to gear up to getting back to the gearing up spot. By the way, P1 is 40-42m, not 52 as in the guide book. The others are correct at 30m for P2 and 30m again for P3&4. That'll be a hundred in total, so equivalent to about 27 gritstone routes or 1,579 boulder problems. Translation: The Secret Way
Misha - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Ed

Rested on gear before I figured out the crux on the 2nd pitch. Awesome route!
eduardo - AltLd dog - 20/Aug/13 with Misha

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with James McKenna

mcgovern - AltLd - 10/Jul/13 with TommyMcG

TommyMcG - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Conor McGovern

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - TR - Jun/13

newtonmore - 2013

liamo333 - 2013 with mcgovern

Memorable first pitch
David Smith - AltLd - 07/Aug/12 with Dave Booth

Led second pitch, face climbing crux was much more my style than the chimney below! Fantastic route!
danoflynn - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Tim Leach

Led the 2nd route. Awesome route! Standing on a flake rested on top of a 50m pedestal is incredible!
matthewjames - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Boothy

led 1st pitch.. amazing pitch.
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 14/Jun/12 with mikey P, Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12

one of the best E1's anywhere
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12 with julie carroll

Julie Carroll - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/12 with Dan Gibson

Epic! Led 1st and last 2 pitches strung together
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Patrick Goodwin

paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd - 08/Jun/12 with Gareth Hall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12

Led P1 and 3. Great fun, superb chimneying
RKernan - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/12 with John Begley

KKilroy - Lead - 2012

metal arms - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11

Second mistake of the trip was deciding to keep my approach shoes on for the first pitch of this.
JulesV - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Shauna

total craziness
Shauna - 2nd - 09/Jul/11 with Jules

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/11

MEGA
Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Rose Williams

Rose Williams - 2nd - 07/Aug/10 with Gareth

my first E1 at the head. a real epic adventure! first pitch is crazy! climbing not particularly hard but 50m of it! Class! crux on the second pitch is airy but holds are small and positive. even the last pitch is truly superb!!!!
jamesbrown - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Michael murphy

Brilliant route.
georgec - AltLd - 12/Jun/10 with Geoff S

chillax - Jun/10

fantastic. just do it. don't take any beta or preconceptions as they'll only spoil it
Alex@home - AltLd O/S - May/10 with The Doctor

Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/09

Went off route on first pitch and backed off, led pitches 3 and 4 in one. First pitch is crazy, chimneying to the top of the broken pillar at 12 metres then moving left to the crack and corner, laybacking and back and footing up this ... and it goes on for over 40 metres!
givemetea - AltLd RP - 27/Jun/09 with Nick Sexton and Keith

grand day out. backed off the lead on pitch 1, seconded kevin & ros up the route. Absolute madness.
Quiddity - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with kevin, Roslyn McKendry

datoon - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/06 with RT & JB

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 25/Jun/05 with Andy March

cornishben - AltLd O/S - Jun/05 with Ian Butterworth

Cool 1st pitch
Les Ross - AltLd - 07/May/00 with Mickey McCann

auld al - AltLd O/S - Apr/93

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jun/91

demented catapillar chimneying required!!
rogerskews - 26/May/90 with Bryn Roberts

John HW - AltLd O/S - 1986 with Dave Evans

Hammy - 31/Jul/80 with Rob Lawson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, kenneM, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Bradders, oliverk, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 32
hard E20 of 12
E20 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard E11 of 12
E111 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
hard 5c0 of 8
5c0 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
hard 5b0 of 8
5b8 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a0 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
3 Stars12 of 12
2 Stars0 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead9 of 50 (18.0%)
Followed5 of 50 (10.0%)
Toproped1 of 50 (2.0%)
Alt Leads30 of 50 (60.0%)
Unknown5 of 50 (10.0%)

'Climbed'19 of 50 (38.0%)
clean O/S26 of 50 (52.0%)
clean RP1 of 50 (2.0%)
dogged3 of 50 (6.0%)
dnf1 of 50 (2.0%)