More than a Match*** E3 5c
[High on "More than a Match", 1 kb]

Rockfax Description
One of the best pitches on the Culm Coast. A hard start through the guarding overhangs contrasts with a series of thin cracks up the centre of the face above. Start just right of two left-slanting gashes in the overhangs at the base of the face. Opposite.
Climb steeply up leftwards and make a powerful move past a small square-cut notch in the lip to a rest above. Take the thin crack above to where it divides and follow the technical right-hand branch to an easing at a shallow shattered pocket. Follow the crack above to a vegetated final few metres. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Note, the start shown in Rockfax is to the right of and much harder than the original start which is described in the North Cornwall definative guide. (Picture will be posted shortly. With the original start, the grade is consistent throughout at E3 5c.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Culm Coast Dagger Attack, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: High on "More than a Match" © Mark Kemball
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

did original start with a preplaced cam
dready - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/15 with whiteexplorer

whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/15 with joe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

Gardened the plants and looked at holds on the abseil from Matchless so not exactly the perfect onsight! Great route. Take LOTS of gear.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 14/Apr/14 with Steve Gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2014

JeromeT - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ian

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with jerome

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/12

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with Cusco

Clean. Tremendous route. Great, steady lead from Andy. Found the harder start fairly straightforward, but I was seconding! Can't quite see how someone thought the start was 6b, it was about 5a/soft 5b i thought, but burly. The 5c is higher up, but never 6a and 6b is pure fantasy. With the exception of the start, this route is a lot like Comes the Dervish, in both style and quality. Great day out with Andy as ever.
Tom Last - 2nd - 31/Aug/11 with Andy March

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11

The alternative start is a very different style of climbing to the rest. Not 5c as all, more like 6b on very overhanging rock. The rest of the climb after 20ft is excellent. It was an ace adventure, and a superb lead from Macca. I was very happy to second. It makes me want to lead Matchless next to it, which looks excellent, if not a little green on top.
Legs - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/11 with Macca

Pulled through a damp start only to pull a hold off while moving between the hands off rests at the bottom of the slab. In my own twisted mind, felt like I'd still done the route.
Tim M - Lead - 30/Jul/11 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with cheesesarnie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Great climb despite vegetation in upper half. All the necessary holds are clear!
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/11 with Andy March

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Nic Dill

fell off the first move at the start the rest of the route was ok.
Tom Seccombe - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Stu Bradbury

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Aug/10

Great route and quite tough for E3, some pretty pumpy moves through the overhang then some pretty thin slab moves to follow. Top half is easier but finding a way through the vegetation is slow going, much better rock than it looks.....worth 3 stars for sure.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Sam

Tore a hold off just at the end of the overhang and fell. Tried again without resting properly cos of the tide and failed. Great moves at the start- looks like an ace route.
Bristoldave - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/10 with CarolineH

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 08/May/08 with Toby Keep

westaway - Lead O/S - 2005

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1999 with Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Oddjob, Justin T, Mike W, alexjz, RFWilkie, Ropeboy, Ian Jones

Total votes cast 33
hard E40 of 12
E40 of 12
easy E40 of 12
hard E32 of 12
E38 of 12
easy E31 of 12
hard E20 of 12
E21 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard 6a0 of 12
6a0 of 12
easy 6a1 of 12
hard 5c5 of 12
5c5 of 12
easy 5c0 of 12
hard 5b0 of 12
5b1 of 12
easy 5b0 of 12
3 Stars9 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean RP