Rockfax Description
One of the best pitches on the Culm Coast. A hard start through the guarding overhangs contrasts with a series of thin cracks up the centre of the face above. Start just right of two left-slanting gashes in the overhangs at the base of the face. Opposite.
Climb steeply up leftwards and make a powerful move past a small square-cut notch in the lip to a rest above. Take the thin crack above to where it divides and follow the technical right-hand branch to an easing at a shallow shattered pocket. Follow the crack above to a vegetated final few metres. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Note, the start shown in Rockfax is to the right of and much harder than the original start which is described in the North Cornwall definative guide. (Picture will be posted shortly. With the original start, the grade is consistent throughout at E3 5c.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Culm Coast Dagger Attack, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

dready 17/Jul Lead O/S

did original start with a preplaced cam

whiteexplorer 17/Jul 2nd O/S
with joe
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Colin
andy_pemberton 14/Apr/14 Lead

Gardened the plants and looked at holds on the abseil from Matchless so not exactly the perfect onsight! Great route. Take LOTS of gear.

with Steve Gibson
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
JeromeT 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian
burto 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd
Bristoldave 05/May/12 Lead rpt
with Cusco
Tom Last 31/Aug/11 2nd

Clean. Tremendous route. Great, steady lead from Andy. Found the harder start fairly straightforward, but I was seconding! Can't quite see how someone thought the start was 6b, it was about 5a/soft 5b i thought, but burly. The 5c is higher up, but never 6a and 6b is pure fantasy. With the exception of the start, this route is a lot like Comes the Dervish, in both style and quality. Great day out with Andy as ever.

Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Legs 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S

The alternative start is a very different style of climbing to the rest. Not 5c as all, more like 6b on very overhanging rock. The rest of the climb after 20ft is excellent. It was an ace adventure, and a superb lead from Macca. I was very happy to second. It makes me want to lead Matchless next to it, which looks excellent, if not a little green on top.

with Macca
Tim M 30/Jul/11 Lead

Pulled through a damp start only to pull a hold off while moving between the hands off rests at the bottom of the slab. In my own twisted mind, felt like I'd still done the route.

with Emma
climbergg 30/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/Jul/11 Lead

Great climb despite vegetation in upper half. All the necessary holds are clear!

with Andy March
Mark Kemball 06/Mar/11 2nd
with Nic Dill
Tom Seccombe 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

fell off the first move at the start the rest of the route was ok.

with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead RP
Chad123 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Great route and quite tough for E3, some pretty pumpy moves through the overhang then some pretty thin slab moves to follow. Top half is easier but finding a way through the vegetation is slow going, much better rock than it looks.....worth 3 stars for sure.

with Sam
Bristoldave 08/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Tore a hold off just at the end of the overhang and fell. Tried again without resting properly cos of the tide and failed. Great moves at the start- looks like an ace route.

Marti999 08/May/08 2nd O/S
with Toby Keep
westaway ??/2005 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ??/1999 Lead
with Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Oddjob, Hidden, Hidden, Justin T, Mike W, alexjz, RFWilkie, Hidden, Ropeboy, Ian Jones
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set