Comici-Dimai*** VII+
[Mike and John, Comici-Dimai, pitch 7, 2 kb]550m, 18 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Arguably the Dolomites' most famous route, this outing is more accessible to most than the Hasse-Brandler. Tremendous climbing with some very memorable situations. Because of its reputation it can get very busy (particularly on the weekends) and an Alpine start is recommended.
There is a lot of fixed protection of varying quality. Take plenty of quickdraws and a small rack for the upper chimney pitches which are often wet.
Start in the centre of the black rock dominating the right-hand side of Cima Grande at a large, loose-looking ramp heading up rightwards. The upper black streaks which the route follows are a good reference point.
1) III, 80m. This pitch is often soloed but take care on the loose rock if you choose to do so. Climb the black rising ramp from left to right to reach a large ledge below a prominent crack.
2) IV, 30m. Climb the crack and go left onto a good ledge.
3) VII-, 30m. The start of the difficulties, so make sure you're warmed up. Climb the steep crack off the left-hand side of the ledge before traversing left a few metres on shallow pockets. Then climb direct at first before stepping right onto the first of several uncomfortable belays.
4) VI+, 30m. Leave the belay on the right, making a delicate traverse right for a few metres, until you reach a shallow corner-crack. Climb this to another small stance.
5) VI+, 40m. Traverse left a couple of metres before going direct towards the bottom of an overhanging corner. Climb this and exit on the right at the top.
6) VI, 30m. Climb the next steep corner above and exit right.
7) VII-, 40m. Continue up the next corner before trending right and up on a compact wall to a belay on the right.
8) VII, 40m. Climb the corner (but not to the top). After 10m or so step out right and traverse on compact rock to the base of another corner. Climb this to a belay at the top.
9) VI-, 40m. Climb up towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a small crack. Continue until you reach easy ground. The Costantini Direct Finish now continues up the chimney system above you.
10) IV+, 30m. Trend leftwards up easy ground.
11) III, 40m. More of the same continuing leftwards heading for the large open-book corner.
12) IV, 30m. Continue left then up until under a corner-crack.
13) V+, 40m. Climb the corner, move right and climb another corner (which is often wet and can feel hard for the grade). Belay at the lower of the two belays above.
14) IV+, 20m. Continue up the corner and belay at the lower of the two belays above.
15) V, 40m. Traverse left following the logical line around the corner to a stance.
16) IV-, 40m. Climb the following crack leading up a slab.
17) III+, 40m. Continue on easy but loose ground to the Ringband Terrace. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A spectacular and deservedly famous North Face climb. The first 8 pitches are gently overhanging and whilst the climbing is never desperate stamina is a must!

Comici, Dimai, Dimai 1933

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces.

Photo: Mike and John, Comici-Dimai, pitch 7 © duncan
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This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 80 wishlists.

First alpine route!
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Gareth Hooson

Fragmod - Lead - 17/Aug/14

attempted once. queues and freezing temps and tiredness
bede.west - AltLd dnf - Aug/14 with jack lawledge, Henry Francis

jcw - 2014

Awesome. 10 hours up, 2 down. Pumpy and sustained, plus an unprotected traverse and wet cracks towards the top. One fall whilst seconding low crux.
DP1977 - AltLd - 06/Sep/13 with David Potter

thrillseekerz - 13/Aug/13

3 points aid- plus 2 hrs over guide book time - led all pitches.
greenclimb - Lead - 12/Aug/13 with Sarah

Great climbing led in blocks with Matt on the sharp end for the hard pitches- top traverse was a bit exposed but with big holds. traverse off right wasnt as bad as lead to believe. Car park to car park in 10.5 hours
Johnny Baker - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Matt Helliker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13

First route of the trip. Good banter!!
thebigeasy - AltLd - Aug/13 with Bart Shaw

Luis SD - AltLd β - 24/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/12

Led the first 2 pitches (ramp and easy crack) up to the crux then handed over to Andy for the hard stuff. Andy led the 3rd and 4th pitches together which makes for the best long pitch I have ever climbed. Fine climbing continued up till the WET 15th pitch adding a great element of adventurous climbing in an amazing position. 12 hours from leaving the carpark to returning to the van. A great day!
williamsd79 - AltLd - 10/Aug/12 with Andy Woolston

Happy to onsight this after bailing from it 2 days previous due to very slow party ahead. 12 hrs car to car, 6b+ overall. Loads of pegs but really good fun.
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with dyl

Sadly ended up aiding past the cruxes, although Hugh managed to lead the higher ones cleanly. Super-amazing wall and totally brilliant situation. Did with a northerly wind, which was bitter and not recommended. Warmup on Yellow Edge was useful.
Oliver Sherman - AltLd dog - 17/Jul/12 with Hugh Thomas

Epic route!
robpartridge - AltLd - 08/Jul/12 with Marcel Broenner

A 17 pitch epic!!!! 2am start from car park, got to start of route at 3.30. Lead the first 100 or so meters of easy grade climbing in dark until hit big ledge at start of difficulties. We sat and had breakfast there waiting for it to get light enough to make a start on the main difficulties. Jack lead the first difficult pitch and then we swung leads from then on. There are about 6-7 sustained hard pitches of alpine grade VI or VII. Very well protected but strenuous climbing. Then the angle eases and there are a few easier pitches before becoming slightly harder again towards the top. We topped out at about 3pm and then traversed round the shelf (which was terrifying) to descend via the south face. Got back to the car park at approx 6pm in time for a beer before heading back to Corvara. Awesome day, awesome route very memorable. Only downpoint is due to its very well deserved reputation and fame it was crowded which took away from the adventure (over 10 teams on the face below us)
hlegge - AltLd - Jul/12 with Jack Hodgson

Hidden - 2012

tonanf - 2012 with jo. H

matt perks - 2012

Super route. We where up in 9 hrs. It had rained the day before so some of the upper chimneys where wet and took time. Semi-epic descent in the dark.
astrange - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Paolo Zanoli

Dave took a wipper on second VII pitch and I rested on a pro at the end of the final VII. Route is pretty obvious with several E1 pitches and probably one E2 5c pitch for the last VII on pumpy bridging. Great route although even after tonnes of sunshine chimney before traverse at the top still wet.
haydng - AltLd dog - 26/Aug/11 with Dave

Peter Holder - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/11 with Josh Legg

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

josh william legg - Lead - 2011

The route of the Dolomites. Pulled on everything.
nathanlee - 2nd - 04/Sep/10 with Dom Lee

Had the face to ourselves. Wet and icy and spooky in upper chimneys.Free this time,pulled on everything back in 78. A great day out.
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/10 with nathan lee

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Rob Sandercock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/10

most pitches wet, very cold, no one else on the face...not in condition! pulled through cruxes and swam up the final water running pitches, an excellent adventure. 11 hours on the route, 2 down. classic
david morse - AltLd - 17/Aug/10 with chris todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10

Pulled on a couple of pieces on 2nd and third crux pitches. Steep ground - pretty pumpy for me as straight off plane really without climbing for a month prior. Nice to get up it but top half a bit crappy and descent unpleasant.
Mattyk - AltLd - 04/Aug/10 with Ali K

Big storm came, top pitches in hail, scary decent. First alpine tick.
rob.s22 - AltLd O/S - Aug/10 with S,K

Simply awesome route, very sustained in bottom half and even the top wet chimneys were hard. A rock to the cheek didn't detract from the experience. Crux second pitch is a tough warm up but very pleased to on-sight everything.... E36aish and very sustained, but pegs make it feel a bit sporty! Take some wires and cams too though...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/10 with Emily

first group on the route. route finding easier than expected due to extensive pegging. 9hrs for ascent.
rich.manterfield - AltLd O/S - Sep/09 with Ryan Clarke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/09

Dunx - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with Rushy

Graham Atkins - AltLd - 15/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/09

Very Enjoyable especially last few crux pitches. One of my best days climbing!
billb - AltLd - Aug/09 with jbvulliamy

mirise - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Katerina Matyushevskaja

pulled on everything i could find
Mark Walter - AltLd - Aug/08 with Paul Black

Good route, easy access. Quite cold conditions so pulled on gear where needed. Some very good pitches, Marks reassuring wink needs some work...
irish paul - AltLd - Aug/08 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/07

Great day out. Some tricky moves.
shark - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/07 with Dave Marsh

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/07 with martina

Lovely route. Pulled on a fair bit of gear but was happy with that ethic to make sure we got up it quickly.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/07 with Andy Inglis

French free in places!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/07 with neil adams

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2006 with Malcolm Scott

Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Neil Mathews

ian bryant - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/05 with dom

Wow... some return to climbing after 8 years off. second route after a long rest... hard.
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Jerome

Hidden - Jul/04

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Steptoe

Awesome route - E3 overall. Dan led the harder moves clean onsight, I seconded pulling on gear due to carrying the sac.
BenTiffin - AltLd dog - Aug/03 with Dan Robinson

Did this and then went and did the Cassin on the Badile 4 days later. Great trip
Justin Tracey - Aug/03 with Dan Hinton

Awesome. We stayed left in the top half.
BenTiffin - Lead - Jul/03 with Dan Robinson

sadams - AltLd - 18/Jul/01 with Eric Hildrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/99

gergosantha - Jul/94

mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/87 with Andy W

Hidden - Aug/80

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Total votes cast 31
hard VIII-0 of 12
VIII-0 of 12
easy VIII-0 of 12
hard VII+0 of 12
VII+9 of 12
easy VII+1 of 12
hard VII2 of 12
VII0 of 12
easy VII0 of 12
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