Rockfax Description
The widening right-hand crack is better. Large gear is needed for the middle section and the finish is a bit of a grovel - luuverly!
If the tree ever goes it will be really tough. © Rockfax

loonylovegood93 29/Sep Lead O/S
tjsx101 29/Sep 2nd O/S
with Helen Fairclough, Jethro Pryke
Sarah Roscoe 27/Sep 2nd
with Ali Stringer
The Screaming Finn 26/Sep Lead O/S
with CarlWH
CarlWH 26/Sep 2nd O/S
Remyveness 23/Sep Lead O/S
tyho 23/Sep 2nd O/S
Luke Jones 04/Sep Lead O/S
with Steve Mead
SteveM 04/Sep 2nd
with Luke
Ashley King 21/Aug Lead

Didn't really like this route if I'm honest, move up to the tree was very unpleasant with little decent holds, had to use a toe jam, and getting toe unjammed was a right bloody mare. chimney of the top is also v awkward, but amusing enough.

Mr. K 10/Aug Lead O/S
with Bryn Wood
mattlyons 13/Jul 2nd
with Matt Arnold, Louise
dbradbeer 29/May 2nd
with James Gould
james5810 29/May Lead O/S
zzee83 29/May Lead
Richard Carey-knight 29/May 2nd O/S

Got stuck in the crack at the top. Applied a mixture of thrutching and camming belly to escape.

rachelanneggleshaw 17/May 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 23/Apr Solo O/S
Hooo 23/Apr Lead O/S

Straightforward up to the finish, then an unpleasant wriggle. Thought I was properly wedged in the exit for a while, but managed to drag myself free.

with Rich B
Vincej 23/Apr Lead
with Mike
Jack Whiteley 10/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dave Knight
rd20 09/Apr Lead rpt
with Ian Crimman
oscaig 09/Apr 2nd O/S
with rd20
Andy Hardy 25/Mar 2nd O/S
teh_mark 19/Mar 2nd rpt
with Adrian Flounders, Jack Tondeur
Hidden 06/Mar Solo O/S
laurence_falconer 06/Mar -
nathanjmasters 06/Mar TR
with Chloe Brooks, Alasdair Robertson
Peter Rosso 06/Mar TR O/S

Good use of feet and central crack. Problems Jamming my feet in the crack after the second third of the climb. Very small crack at the end of the crack, well protected and good for a break, but little mobility in it.

with Beth, Jono
Zolly Whitaker 06/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Mar 2nd dnf
JonoDHawkins 06/Mar Lead O/S

Nothing particularly special - top crack isn't all too nice to squeeze through but got in stacked nuts for gear so that's always nice.

with Bethany, Chelsea
Hidden 01/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar 2nd O/S
jonhowson 27/Feb 2nd O/S

Bit of a loose block lower down. Then some jams. Then some groveling in a manky crack to finish. Who wouldn't want to climb it? Three stars.

timmsy 10/Feb 2nd
Psych ?/Feb Lead O/S
MrFantastic 13/Jan Solo O/S
craig.england1 21/Dec/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/15 2nd
Private Flounder 22/Nov/15 Lead
with Neil Mackie
th0ma5_ander50n 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Michael Bortoluzzi 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Steve Hobbs
Duncan Beard 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Nice start, committing crux, graunchy end.

with Pip McCarthy
1176gws 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Rob hayes
MBano 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead
MusicalMountaineer 21/Jun/15 Lead β

Good fun up to the tree, disgusting grovel afterwards. Half empty of half full?!

leopolian 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Louise Baddeley
louiseclimbsthings 06/Jun/15 2nd
with Leo
louiseclimbsthings 03/Jun/15 2nd
with Tom B
uphillnow 30/May/15 Lead
Sam McCarthy 23/May/15 2nd O/S

simul second avec tom, alpine syle

James Lowe 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Bennell, Sam M
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Emma
farmerwad 10/May/15 Lead
with sandra, Janet
philmitch 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Tony Ryland 27/Apr/15 TR

Didn't like the off width crack so opted for a top rope. Real struggle at the top. Which masochist gave this a star?

Ian Hylands 23/Apr/15 2nd β
with Sumir Bhat
Capricorn One 23/Apr/15 Lead
with Becs PCC
Karlos 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Adam B
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd
colin milton 25/Mar/15 Lead
with shaun l
rd20 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Gary
garywong 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Harri777 07/Mar/15 2nd
with Yvonne
pawel suhy 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Nate PCC
Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Paul Hy 13/Dec/14 2nd rpt
with Lee W
lee1234 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
benlatham07 07/Dec/14 Lead O/S
mrchewy 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 06/Dec/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Nov/14 Lead rpt
AlexFletcher 25/Oct/14 Lead
Alex_Derbyshire 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
vix 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

I found dirt in places I didn't even know I has after this. If it was clean would be a nice character building climb, getting wedged in a crack, full body jams and helmet getting stuck fun... the dirt made it far less fun

with Lorna
Capricorn One 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Charlotte Ellis
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
beth.westonhoward 01/Jul/14 2nd
with Dan Williams
danwilliams99 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Felt harder than severe. HS in Eastern Grit. Slightly wobbly starting flake and brambles make for an interesting start, getting stuck in the finishing chimney makes for an interesting finish...

with Beth
Somerset swede basher 30/Jun/14 Solo O/S
MysteriousCeorl 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 28/Apr/14 Lead dnf

My arse is this severe. HS in the guidebook and hard at that, had to bail cause I was being a pansy and didn't want to commit to the layback without gear above me, but couldn't do it any other way.

James12389 28/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Doug.Johnson 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
ewan.davies 21/Apr/14 2nd

In the rain. Slippery.

WillDoyle 14/Apr/14 Solo
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd β
petecallaghan 12/Apr/14 Lead β

Needed some tips from Tim to figure out the jamming crack below the tree. Really appreciated the giant tricam I borrowed from John

with Jamie T
Hidden 08/Apr/14 2nd O/S
JenEvans 22/Mar/14 2nd
vanderz 22/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mattgrange 15/Mar/14 2nd

Had to remove my helmet and very nearly some of my clothing to get out of this one!

skittles 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Harder than severe, it has at least one 4b move in it.

rooftops ?/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/14 Lead
Paul Hy 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Rich A
Hidden 16/Feb/14 2nd
cragtyke 29/Dec/13 Lead


with glenn
GlennWatson 29/Dec/13 2nd
Oo 14/Dec/13 2nd
Simon Caldwell 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Bit of a delay while my No 5 Camalot was passed up - makes a big difference having one of these! Good route.

with Carmen
Hidden 01/Dec/13 2nd
Kirill 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Alexey Kravets
65m moderate millington 26/Oct/13 Lead dnf
with emma
JHiley 17/Oct/13 Lead rpt

Harder than I remembered.

with Sarah
sdixon 17/Oct/13 2nd
GermanAlex 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Jamie
jonathandavey 05/Sep/13 2nd
LesserTrochanter 05/Sep/13 Lead
charley 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
chumleywarner 06/Jul/13 2nd
chumleywarner 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd
jon_gill1 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with catherine pickup
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
andork123 ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
TimG 25/May/13 2nd O/S

very nearly death by falling log

kcollender 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Jake Young 22/May/13 Solo O/S
keith leonard 14/May/13 2nd
ColinD 14/May/13 2nd
with Chris, Keith
Matt Harmon 08/May/13 Lead O/S
stefie c 08/May/13 2nd
Sebastien Gastaud 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Anyes Varenne
anyes varenne 21/Apr/13 2nd
benkelsey 13/Apr/13 Solo O/S
with HPC
MarkCunnington 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Shaun Egglestone, Nicholas Lokuciewski
dangmtb 06/Apr/13 2nd

Nice lead Rick...

AlexFletcher 05/Apr/13 2nd
sam26051 05/Apr/13 Lead
DavidPC 04/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Davies
althesin 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Reds 05/Mar/13 2nd O/S
schristophersmith 05/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Wyrdwired ??/2013 Lead O/S
Cake 01/Dec/12 2nd O/S

Enjoyed this

the power 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

gives it hs 4b in eastern grit?

with owen
Hidden 10/Nov/12 2nd
AlexFletcher 10/Nov/12 Lead
with Nadine Fecht
JHiley 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S

really enjoyed this.

teh_mark 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S

The finish is less than ideal, but it was good fun (on reflection)

riddle 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tara
stingray_tara 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
alooker ?/Oct/12 Lead

Crux just below tree. Clipped a couple of slings together and chucked it over the tree for a sneaky bit of pro. Thrutchy chimney at the top is enjoyed mainly after the fact, with a helmet making it harder...

mikestr555 29/Sep/12 2nd


nick ferro 16/Sep/12 -
with Oli Birkill
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 02/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 01/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jon59 25/May/12 Lead
SMThompson1 15/Apr/12 Lead
ryansb90 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
martin one 07/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Chris day
John Brayshaw 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 02/Apr/12 2nd
with John
minaturechris 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Bex_M 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Stacey Jg
Marq 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
armouredego 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Peter Elliott, Tom Parsons
kestrelspl 18/Feb/12 TR
Jimbo C 07/Jan/12 Lead rpt

Seconded this about 5 years ago. It's a unique route.

with Chris, Pete
Katherine Ross 05/Nov/11 Lead dnf

HS 4b in Eastern Grit. It was wet, I'm not very practiced at jamming and couldn't see how to do the moves from the first ledge to the tree, or how I was going to protect it.

with UBES
malc 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with John H, Paul Scott
Hidden 14/Oct/11 2nd
mark20 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/11 Lead rpt
tsjx 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S

With John McMahon.

Harri777 29/Aug/11 Lead
with Alexis, Stephen T, Simon H
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Danny Crump 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Richard Vaughan
pebbles 07/Aug/11 Lead

led up on ali's initial gear. higher part is quite tricky for severe, a size 5 friend would be very handy (sadly mine was in the car)

with rachel, ali
Rachel S 07/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Katie S 09/Jul/11 Lead
Binder 02/May/11 2nd O/S
with Simon P
si_pro_83 02/May/11 Lead
with GBM
Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Rintygold 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Gerald Donnelly
will_benfold 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
philb 22/Mar/11 2nd O/S

not a nice climb -thuggy with a poor finish

with simon
smeaton 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with phil
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Solo rpt
fatbuoybazza 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S

6Ft, 15 stone, too much gear on, fat bustard, but i made it thru the top chimney without too much trouble..

mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Solo O/S
pmurdy 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Given HS 4b in Eastern Grit

Stig 27/Oct/10 Solo O/S

in reverse

with james oswald
philb 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

with mark stsrt of the day

fizzychewitt 02/Oct/10 2nd

Very entertaining. I'm surprised its not starred

with Phil
howlingbaboon 30/Sep/10 TR rpt
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Becky E
Becky E 26/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Gallant 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Disgustingly green from what I remember

CWMulcahy 31/Aug/10 Lead
pabbage 11/Aug/10 -
oliccm 09/Aug/10 2nd β

Climbed with Chris Guess, Chris Marlow, Tom Marlow

Hidden 27/Jul/10 Lead
popebenedictus 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 05/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
pr1984 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
SteWatkins ?/Jul/10 -
TerryB 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
TimKnight 18/Jun/10 2nd
Joemanglerocks 18/Jun/10 Lead
Howard J 18/May/10 2nd rpt

Prickly at the bottom and a hideous thrutch at the top

Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Goody 18/May/10 Lead O/S
with James ...IMC
Michael Ryan 17/May/10 Lead
Hidden 17/May/10 2nd
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd O/S
gravity 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ruth Lightfoot
helios 25/Apr/10 2nd

Followed with a waterfall coming down it to get Katy's gear!!! Face right at the top or run the risk of getting stuck like Katy :)

with Katy Coutts
mattparratt 25/Apr/10 2nd
katyc 25/Apr/10 Lead

Faced wrong way at top. Leading to some epic top out. Ugh!

GrahamPlant 22/Apr/10 Solo
pabbage 12/Apr/10 -
Hidden 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S
thekendo 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with adam husein
tigertim 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Off width at top - easy to get stuck in it!!

with James Noble
kel1989 13/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Interview
James_D 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Piers
Hidden 29/Jan/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/10 2nd O/S
jolyon.cohen 23/Jan/10 2nd
davidwright 23/Jan/10 Lead O/S
itsgarb ??/2010 Lead
smokeyj ??/2010 -
frankcp87 13/Dec/09 2nd

The top crack is as fun on second as i remember on lead!

with Ian Holbrook
Moritz L 05/Dec/09 Lead
with rylett
nic42 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with sarah
rylett 05/Dec/09 2nd
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
g_quaglia ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 06/Aug/09 2nd rpt

Again was a little cold for this but still enjoyed! Bigger move than I remembered half way up towards the tree but good old fists did the job! Attempted to make some body jams at the top, great fun.

with Lisa Trollope
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
Jonathan Hall 23/Jun/09 Lead
Kenny Larsen 25/May/09 2nd

Harder than Jonathan's Chimney! Jen Followed

with Chris
howlingbaboon 22/May/09 Lead O/S
Kelly D 07/May/09 2nd O/S

That top gets tight!

graphiclunarkid 07/May/09 Lead O/S

The top is more of an undignified scramble than a climb. Poor belay at the top too. Large gear would help!

with Kelly D
Hidden 28/Dec/08 Lead
Mountain Llama 26/Oct/08 Lead
with Andy P
frume 22/Oct/08 TR O/S

used shunt

with Myself
alaan 29/Jul/08 Solo
Brown 02/Jun/08 Solo O/S
with Bridget
IAmAStone 25/May/08 Lead O/S

Rubbish. Tree gets in the way. And the top out is dogged and jammed in.

with Carl Jackson
Adam1973 03/May/08 2nd O/S
BenJacobs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Steve and Fliss
Hidden 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
pog100 06/Apr/08 2nd O/S
tempeh 06/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with dvh
Reaver2k 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Haha brilliant fun! One of my favourite climbs ever and one of my most memorable! We approached the crag in a full on snow storm in the vague hope of a route and maybe meeting Lizzie to say hello! Racked up for Spiral Route, at which point the snow started pouring down again. Thought I shouldn't push my luck on a tricky VS, with no way of retrieving gear if worst comes to worse so decided to go for this one. Watched a pair huff and pant on the top offwidth and thought it can't be that bad, it can! By the time I had my shoes on, every hold on the climb was absolutely soaked and freezing! The lower crack had a bit of a stream running down it so I just sort of used it briefly to get started, up onto a slippery ledge using a sequence of extremely slippery holds. The next crack was dry enough and fitted some good jams, however at the top of it, before the tree, it gets harder! Foot jammed with right foot, fist jammed with right hand right near the top of the crack, flagged with left foot, reached up, and the slopey ledge was absolutely soaked! Had to reach a little bit further up and grab a kind of spike thing. Left foot on the wall and a quick push reaches the very useful tree! Leaned back like a sloth and looked over the valley, absolutely beautiful! I will never forget that view, peering through trees at totally snow covered trees all over the valley, snow lacing it down around me, dad looking up and smiling, absolute bliss. One of my best climbing moments of all time! Swung round, slung the tree and started my way into the offwidth! Now I'm what you might call inexperienced with offwidths at the moment, having done only 1 or 2, and this was by far the most exhausting full body climbing I have ever done! Facing left I reached into the back and placed a piece of gear quite low down, then proceded to wiggle my way up. However with a full rack of gear, I'm not exactly skinny, and the bloody thing tapers the higher up you go! I did my first ever chest jam (breath in and I could fully support my body with my chest alone). Didn't think I would be sweating on a day like this but I managed it alright! More exhausting wriggling and pulling left me with my head poking out the top, looking at the sloping topout on both sides! GAH! Managed to whale myself onto the top of one of them and try and calm my panting down! Poor belay at the top, only thing I could really find was a sling round a block a few metres back and right. Do this climb! Great fun especially one a day like today!

dangerousoldfool ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Done in a full on snowstorm ;)

with Graham C
duzinga 02/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Stu Bolton
bigbobbyking 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/08 2nd
Bex Atkinson 17/Feb/08 2nd

Went off-route AGAIN mid way. Fun squeeze at the top, had to loose my helmet to fit!

with Masa
masa-alpin 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Tom (Bex A's friend), Bex A
Fat Tim 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
simonw1 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Allan Watson
Allan Watson 27/Jan/08 2nd
with Simon Whitehead
Martin Haworth ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Climbed in big boots

with Andy
Hidden 30/Nov/07 Lead
KeithW 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Awkward wide crack before tree, then got stuck in the top crack. Less pies!

with Ian Bentley
Hidden 26/Oct/07 Lead
MikeLeeds 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Mira Slavova
SteveM 13/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Paul & Bruce
Hidden 16/Jun/07 2nd O/S
frankcp87 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Unpleasant exit even for my skinny arse!

with marccb6
marccb6 06/Jun/07 2nd
with Frank
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 -
stevo smith 05/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Arthur smith (Dad)
Nicos 27/Feb/07 Solo O/S
with dan woolnough
HannyHancock 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/07 2nd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
gethin_allen ??/2007 Lead
Jimbo C ??/2007 2nd
snowcat 17/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Colin Beechey
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Bry 27/Aug/06 2nd
with Tom Brittain
MaccMark 27/Aug/06 Lead
with Mat Ouillion
victim of mathematics 24/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Jaime
jimbobimbo ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Gro
freemanTom ?/Apr/06 Lead
size9hex ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Winter ascent claimed due to the route being buried by hailstones.

cem 09/Jan/05 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Mar/04 2nd
cem 22/Feb/04 2nd
adam carless ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Pali, Stefan
SteveM 22/Feb/03 Lead
with Tobs
rocktigger ??/2003 Lead O/S
Tim Bateman 05/Aug/01 2nd
Howard J 05/Jun/01 Lead O/S
shoulders 27/Mar/99 Lead
craig h 09/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Matt Ford
Rog Wilko ?/May/94 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 17/Jun/92 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/May/90 Solo
Andy Say 31/May/87 Solo O/S
Billg 20/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Tom V ??/1983 -
Hidden 16/Jun/79 Solo O/S
Nigel Bond 03/Jul/75 Lead
with John
Hidden 05/Jun/73 2nd
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Votes cast 52
High 4c
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Votes cast 50
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