1220m. The classic of the classics. 1200m of climbing, very little of which can be rappeled on the way down. (Allow just as much time for the descent as the ascent!)

Kayan 09/Sep -
with Joe fraser
Jamie Johnston 08/Sep AltLd dnf

Turned back at Solvay Hut

with Pete Coulson, Craig Cameron
Hidden 08/Sep AltLd dnf
Pero 01/Sep AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug Lead O/S
Suzana 07/Aug Solo

Started and finished in Zermatt in one push

Hannah V 06/Aug 2nd

Excellent conditions and weather. A lot of parties to share the route with!

with Rocio Siemens
BlackheathDiggs 31/Jul 2nd

Climbed with French guide. Perfect conditions (little snow and ice, apart from on the top), no need for ice axe. Lost 15 mins queuing at lower mosely slabs, but got to Solvay Hut after 2hrs 15mins. Total ascent time 5 hours, total descent 5 hours! Then a jog back down from the hut to make the cable car...

Hardonicus 30/Jul Lead dnf

Got to just below the shoulder in 6 hours. Felt we were a little slow and turned back as visibility was dropping a bit. Should have pressed on and had a night in the Solvay, conditions improved on the way back down. Long walk down to Zermatt afterwards.

with Tom Woods
ian.ross.bnc ?/Jul -

with Adrian Nelhams (ISM), 4.5hrs up, 5hrs down

guy757 01/Nov/14 -
Hidden ?/Nov/14 AltLd
sgl 19/Oct/14 -

In descent after N.face

with viv
butteredfrog ?/Sep/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
picasso 04/Sep/13 -
Dreamchaser 21/Aug/13 AltLd β

Jerry Gore and myself climbed the Matterhorn in the swiss alps to raise money for Jerry's Ecuador appeal to keep insulin dependant kids in Ecuador alive. www.justgiving.com/royarscott

Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Solo
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Solo dnf
Hidden 05/Aug/13 Solo
Bex_M ?/Aug/13 -
pawelx 22/Jul/13 -

04:00 leave the hut, 08:40 on the summit. Queues everywhere starting just below Solvay hut, would have been quicker if it wasn't for them. Since we didn't hire a Swiss guide, we were only allowed to start after all the guided parties have left the hut. 6 hours in descent, some route finding difficulties below ~3500. We did the Breithorn + slept at 3900 for acclimatization, then descended to Hornli hut the next day.

JonesJ 15/Jul/13 AltLd

Climbed with Ian Venables and was my first Alpine climb, simply immense!!! Left at 0400 once all guided parties had left. Climbed un-roped to lower Moseley Slabs before moving together roped up. Ascent slowed when we hit the summit block as we had to wait for parties to come down before we could ascend higher. 8 hours to summit in perfect weather. Took 5 hours to reach the Solvay hut where we stayed the night due to lack of daylight remaining and a predicted forecast of thunderstorms. Weather held off and descended the following day in 4 and a half hours. Moved slower than most parties but did so safely.

jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 18/Sep/12 AltLd
Mr. K 11/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Turned back at the Solvay hut after witnessing an Italian soloist fall off and die. Worst day of my life. 4hrs to the hut, 6hrs to get off again.

fathobbit 11/Sep/12 2nd
with Mr. K
cuillinman 29/Aug/12 -

Only three days in Zermat to acclimatize because of approaching weather front so climbed Pollux then up to hut then Hornli the following day. 6 Hrs 15 mins hut to hut. Everything clicked into place resulting in a very fast time for an amazing route. Get very fit, stick to the line and its an exhilarating climb. If you are less than fit or lose the route it will be a long haul.

dkd 27/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Al
Roberttaylor 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing day out

Stuart Johnston 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

In descent

with Misha Gopaul
Liam Ingram 18/Aug/12 Sent

Very busy so rather slow (17h hut to hut). Amazing experience.

timmyhobby 10/Aug/12 AltLd β

what an epic day, 5 hours up, 13 down due to helping some people in need, probably the best but most scary day of my life, defiantly not to be underestimated!!

with russ
R2B 10/Aug/12 Solo O/S

Made a rescue on the way down. My climbing partner Timmy was on form all day. Thank God!

sarpedon 08/Aug/12 Solo O/S

On foot from Zermatt to the hut, bivy at night, off at 5:30am, summit before 10am.

Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
QuentinSu ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/12 2nd
Andy Hewison 27/Jul/12 -

Good weather, 4.5 hours to the top and do both ridges. Very narrow and exposed summit ridge but it's amazing to be up there. It was a bit busy on the descent with some grumpy almost aggresive guides from other parties. Took longer on the descent and it is a never ending slog that isn't much fun.

with Fred
Vincej 27/Jul/12 2nd
with Matthew
Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Gene00 ?/Jul/12 -

Set off from the Hornli hut at 4am, summit at 08:30. We had to fit crampons just below the Moseley Slab which made the ascent harder work for me. Apart from strong winds and plummeting temperatures a few hundred meters from the summit we had a fine day with clear skies at the top. There were very few teams on the mountain and we found ourselves alone on the summit. It was a great day out, although the descent is a bit of a nightmare.

robpartridge 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Winter ascent of the Hornli, so good to have the mountain to ourselves.

with John Cummings
johnrc 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

finally ticked matterhorn winter. 2 and half days on the mountain thanks to a morning storm, knee deep powder and bullet ice. ended up with frost bite and shredded gear but what an epic climb and view. -25 in the solvay hut with no sleeping bag was an experience not to forget. thanks to rob for teachig the alpine style and taking sweet shots.

with robnz
darcan ??/2012 AltLd
with chris bailey
wilkie14c 01/Sep/11 -
with Dave Clarke
callum brown ?/Sep/11 -
Chris Ellyatt 29/Aug/11 AltLd β

Amazing day - great weather. So happy to finally do this route, loved it.

with Paul Windross
Hidden 22/Aug/11 -
carlh 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A fantastic day and climbed on the back of Stok Kangri (6153m) the previous week. John (Makin) and I were still acclimatised and fit, but tired after 4 flights and several time zones in the previous few days. I led the majority of the route and we moved together/I short roped John for all but one section during the descent. We were slower than we'd have liked to have been, but the good weather window was wide enough to allow us to summit at 11am and get off the mountain (with a sleep at the gondala station) in time for breakfast the following morning! A big day out and approx 3000m of descent from the summit to our breakfast in Zermatt... we didn't bother waiting for the Gondala down!

Timo Austino 14/Aug/11 -

Awesome day out - camped and got ahead of the masses early on (rabbit in the headlights springs to mind!) amazing route and atmosphere - the descent was ok until i uttered the immortal words... hey i think we've done really well not to get lost.... on the main route the rock's sound but too far off and its a bit chossy.. still amazing day out - well done Nat

with Nat and Ali and Mike and Mark
dkd 13/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with Al
Hidden 12/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 03/Sep/10 -
Hidden 03/Sep/10 AltLd
j4kub 03/Sep/10 AltLd dnf

got to the solvay hut - i'll be back!

with dave davey
moskitp 01/Sep/10 -
PaulCunningham ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

great day out with no walkin! Moved together up then soloed down onced past the bivvy hut

Skinny Kin 31/Aug/10 Solo

Made it to Sovay Refuge hut. Too hot that day. Running out of water and food. Snow melting on 1st Moseley Slab. Time to head back down. Next time I'll try to take the cable car up instead of walking from Zermatt train station. Mammoth task!

donkster 26/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
with ben
dscnly 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Tomas Hallen - ISM Guide
mark-abz 10/Aug/10 -
with Alex
Gezzer 02/Aug/10 -

Didn't make the summit due to poor weather and low visibility.

with Nick Ellaway
Ross.Cooper 23/Jul/10 2nd dnf

Got to 3740m, turned round due to snow. Massive thunderstorm as we arrived back to hut!

with Remi
Julian Prieto 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
cliffy 18/Jul/10 -
Adi Hooper 18/Jul/10 AltLd

Left the Swiss summit at 12.30pm and arrived at the Hornli Hut at 7.00pm. Moving together all the time.

with Roger Ward
Tim Rodgers 16/Jul/10 2nd
with Kevin O'Neale
guyscott 13/Jul/10 2nd dnf

Turned back 150m from top due to weather. What a pisser.

with Klas
Thomas Healing 10/Jul/10 Lead

Great experience, start early and Move quick ;-)

Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tscoobydoo 01/Oct/09 -


with Kieron Belcher, matt Kemp, phillip belcher
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/09 -
Hidden 10/Sep/09 2nd
nick bamber ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with martin knight
Hidden 30/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/09 -
Hidden 17/Aug/09 -
kevburr 14/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
Nigel Mackwood 13/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Keeping it slow but sure, I took 16 hours hut to hut. Although the conditions were probabaly as good as they can be, the approach and descent to/from the summit was still a bit icy without being roped up.

bigbobbyking 12/Aug/09 -

and Peter Hill.

Jonny M 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S
GiveHerHelen 01/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead

Busy but awesome

CarolineH ?/Aug/09 -
with Dave
Chris Plewa ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
AdamCB ?/Aug/09 -

With Rick Marchant, Tim Rickeard and Paul Warnock, in descent

Hidden 31/Jul/09 2nd
Scott McRae 29/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Awesome, atmospheric route. Absolutely huge! Completed in 4.40 up and 4.30 down.

with Stefano
Hidden 21/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
dave.mowle 11/Jul/09 AltLd O/S


with Paul 'I'm equal to it' Summers
colenn 05/Jul/09 AltLd

In descent

with Peter Britton, Aidan Ennis
aennis 05/Jul/09 -

In Descent

with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
will_lake 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
featuresforfeet 08/Aug/08 AltLd dnf

Got to snowfield and turned back due to too much fresh snow. 5 hours up, 8 down. Missed last cable car. Walked back to Zermatt. Arse.

with Steve
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -

In Descent

with Byron Buck
Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

in descent

with Steve Becwith
irish paul ?/Aug/08 AltLd

Not as loose as seemingly made out [mind, we did follow a guided party]. Route finding in the lower section is a nightmare first time. Helped rescue two Italians caught in a rockfall. worth doing solely for the history but nothing special about the climbing barr the top snowfield...

with Ed
hilled101 ?/Aug/08 AltLd
with Irish
Byronius Maximus ?/Aug/08 -

In descent after climbing Italian Ridge

Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/08 Solo
sacdenouilles 10/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Graham Burns
Hidden 05/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
KRB 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S

My best mountain day ever. By all accounts we made the 1st ascent this season and we were the only 2 people on the whole mountain. Still a lot of soft snow on the slabs which had turned into a constant waterfall by the time we descended. Chris's 1st trip to the Alps with borrowed crampons and ice axe and my 1st proper trip for 28 years. Ran all the way back to Zermatt giving an 18 hour day start to finish. Great weather, great mountain, great memories, perfect day.

with Chris Bridges
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Peter Metcalfe 21/Sep/07 Lead

Try it in late September after the hut closes for the season: when we were there mountain was virtually deserted and the weather was superb. Don't believe the Zermatt Guides' Office who insist that there's gas in the Hornlihutte's Winter Room! Plenty of blankets though.

with Sophia
dan gibson 15/Sep/07 AltLd rpt
with helen gibson
Adam Booth 07/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Roel
Andrew1 06/Sep/07 AltLd dnf
with Juliet Parker Smith
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Joubert ?/Aug/07 -
Nicos 26/Jul/07 Lead O/S
CMorris 14/Sep/06 Lead
with Jonny Shallcross
IanGilbertJones 25/Jul/06 AltLd
with Richard Garnett
Brian Birtle ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with German Thomas
industrialiceman 27/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/05 2nd
Celia Watson 10/Jul/05 Lead
martinuk1001 ?/Jul/05 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
ashpreston ??/2004 AltLd dnf

Retreated from the solvay in storm

dan gibson ?/Sep/03 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Solo
Neil Henson ?/Jul/03 AltLd

Got to just past the shoulder (approx.100m from summit) and decided to turn back as was getting too late. Very nearly benighted on the descent. Spent 18 exhausting hours on this route and still didn't complete it. Have to go back and do it, but didn't enjoy the climbing much. Very loose and lots of dodging other peoples crampons. Will prepare better next time. A route not to be underestimated.

with Mark Collins
DerwentDiluted ?/Jul/03 Solo dnf

Got to Moseley slabs, retreated in thunderstorm.

with Tim Stain
Gudge ?/Mar/03 -
Andy Clarke 01/Aug/01 AltLd

Success at the third attempt. Sunny day: route just coming into condition as recent snow melted. About 60 people on it in all - not too many, considering how crowded it can get. Soloed up to Moseley Slab, then climbed roped. Lucky we did: higher up, while passing a slower party, a fair sized chunk came off in both hands and I took a plummet. Mike out of sight, but still held me: undoubtedly saved both our lives. About an hour later realised my hand was running with blood from rope burns on every segment of every finger. So much adrenaline, hadn't felt it till then. Put gloves on and carried on. 5 hrs up, but 8 down. Quick handshake to celebrate. Resigned to missing last chairlift and bivvying, but arrived to discover it was Swiss National Day and a huge party was in full swing at the station, with lifts running till late. Watched a firework display over Zermatt. Strange to be looking down on all the starbursts. Finally got back to tent about 2.00 am, finished off hip flask of whisky and began painstakingly removing bits of glove lining from all the burns. Amazing day.

with MikeW
Andy Clarke 10/Aug/00 AltLd dnf

Challenging conditions, but decided to give it a go. Snow and verglas everywhere - climbing with both axes at times. Out of our depth, really. Only two other teams on the mountain. Got as far as the Solvay, then decided to retreat. But a fantastic day out - worth it for the view from the Solvay, and the sight of our single track of footprints in the snow. A real sense of privilege, in having such a popular mountain virtually to ourselves. Back next year.

with MikeW
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/1998 -
Bilbo 09/Aug/97 -

9th Aug Head torch failed 30 mins after setting off @ 02:30 - slow climbing in the dark until dawn at 06:30. Climbed to 4270mts (200mts) below summit before reluctantly turning round, too late in the day to continue safely. Return another time better acclimatized.

with Steve
Bilbo 08/Aug/97 -

7th Aug descended from Briethorn and carried camping gear up to near the Hornli Hut. Most people descending after weeks of poor weather and no succesful summits this season. 8th Aug Quick recce to 500 mts below the Solvay hut in glorious and unexpected sunshine after an atrocious night of lightning strikes on the scree nearby and snowfall whilst camping below the East face not far from Hornli hut.

with Steve
Martyn ?/Sep/96 Solo dnf

Only had one day on route. Got about 1/3 way up past Hornli hut befor retreating do to time.

with Rob Boylin
craig h ?/Aug/96 Solo

Forgot the gas for the stove, so had to cough up for an evening meal at the hut, we bivied. 5 hours up and 3.5 down. Got the rope out to abseil 1 section as we had carried it, and were held up by ascending parties.

with Janet Hannah
michaelb1 ?/Aug/96 -

Long day 14hours

with Robert Durkin
Iain Thow 19/Jul/96 Lead
with Liz Jolley
gallonj ??/1996 -

Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli

Hidden ?/Jul/95 Solo
NeilGriffiths ?/Aug/94 -
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
michaelja ?/Mar/94 -

With Frank M. Very strong N wind.

paul_j_burgess ?/Jul/93 AltLd O/S

Good to get the tick on this. What a bloody circus it was, people everywhere. Guides dragging very unfit people up on the end of a rope. If I never go back to this route I'll be happy.

with Glenn Latham
MoWalker3 01/Aug/92 -
Richard Weller 10/Aug/90 -

In descent

with Richard White
brianrunner ?/Aug/90 AltLd
with John Thomson
Conan ?/Jul/90 Solo O/S

Caught in rockfall, close escape!

colinthrelfall ?/Aug/88 -
mark-abz ?/Aug/87 AltLd
with Andy W
dtalbot 06/Sep/86 -
with Margret
Mickdenali ?/Jul/85 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/85 -
RichardMc 03/Aug/79 -
with Angel Vila
Nigel Bond 20/Aug/75 Solo

Time 5.5hrs to summit, Cy return to hut after a short distance I soloed to the Salvey hut and then joined an Austrian party. 6 hr descent to the hut and a 6hr walk back to the campsite near Zermatt. Very pleased with a successful ascent.

with Cy and Austrian Party
Ken Taylor 15/Jul/75 AltLd
with Stuart Scott, Howard Jones, Frank Barnes
Howard J 14/Jul/75 AltLd O/S

We walked up from Zermatt (poor students, couldn't afford the cablecar) and waited for several days for the weather to clear. Did it mostly unroped (lack of competence rather than boldness), tied on at Moseley Slab. Made a very early start to get ahead of the crowds. A long and arduous day but well worth it. The day before my 21st birthday, so a double celebration when we got down. Walking back down through the meadows to Zermatt and smelling the flowers after 4 days above the snow line was nearly as memorable as the route itself.

with Reading University MC
Hidden 14/Aug/73 -
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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