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North-East (Hornli) Ridge*** AD

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[On the Matterhorn Hörnli ridge, 2 kb]1220m. The classic of the classics. 1200m of climbing, very little of which can be rappeled on the way down. (Allow just as much time for the descent as the ascent!)

Photo: On the Matterhorn Hörnli ridge © Julian Prieto
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 147 logbooks, and on 94 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

picasso - 04/Sep/13

Jerry Gore and myself climbed the Matterhorn in the swiss alps to raise money for Jerry's Ecuador appeal to keep insulin dependant kids in Ecuador alive. www.justgiving.com/royarscott
Dreamchaser - AltLd β - 21/Aug/13 with Jerry Gore

r055y87 - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo - 16/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo dnf - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo - 05/Aug/13

Bex_M - Aug/13

04:00 leave the hut, 08:40 on the summit. Queues everywhere starting just below Solvay hut, would have been quicker if it wasn't for them. Since we didn't hire a Swiss guide, we were only allowed to start after all the guided parties have left the hut. 6 hours in descent, some route finding difficulties below ~3500. We did the Breithorn + slept at 3900 for acclimatization, then descended to Hornli hut the next day.
pawelx - 22/Jul/13

Climbed with Ian Venables and was my first Alpine climb, simply immense!!! Left at 0400 once all guided parties had left. Climbed un-roped to lower Moseley Slabs before moving together roped up. Ascent slowed when we hit the summit block as we had to wait for parties to come down before we could ascend higher. 8 hours to summit in perfect weather. Took 5 hours to reach the Solvay hut where we stayed the night due to lack of daylight remaining and a predicted forecast of thunderstorms. Weather held off and descended the following day in 4 and a half hours. Moved slower than most parties but did so safely.
JonesJ - AltLd - 15/Jul/13

jcw - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/12

Turned back at the Solvay hut after witnessing an Italian soloist fall off and die. Worst day of my life. 4hrs to the hut, 6hrs to get off again.
Mr. K - Lead dnf - 11/Sep/12 with Chris Mullaney

fathobbit - 2nd - 11/Sep/12 with Mr. K

Only three days in Zermat to acclimatize because of approaching weather front so climbed Pollux then up to hut then Hornli the following day. 6 Hrs 15 mins hut to hut. Everything clicked into place resulting in a very fast time for an amazing route. Get very fit, stick to the line and its an exhilarating climb. If you are less than fit or lose the route it will be a long haul.
cuillinman - 29/Aug/12

dkd - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/12 with Al

Amazing day out
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Liam Ingram

In descent
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Misha Gopaul

Very busy so rather slow (17h hut to hut). Amazing experience.
Liam Ingram - Sent - 18/Aug/12 with Robert Taylor

what an epic day, 5 hours up, 13 down due to helping some people in need, probably the best but most scary day of my life, defiantly not to be underestimated!!
timmyhobby - AltLd β - 10/Aug/12 with russ

Made a rescue on the way down. My climbing partner Timmy was on form all day. Thank God!
R2B - Solo O/S - 10/Aug/12

On foot from Zermatt to the hut, bivy at night, off at 5:30am, summit before 10am.
sarpedon - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/12

Good weather, 4.5 hours to the top and do both ridges. Very narrow and exposed summit ridge but it's amazing to be up there. It was a bit busy on the descent with some grumpy almost aggresive guides from other parties. Took longer on the descent and it is a never ending slog that isn't much fun.
Andy Hewison - 27/Jul/12 with Fred

Vincej - 2nd - 27/Jul/12 with Matthew

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/12

Set off from the Hornli hut at 4am, summit at 08:30. We had to fit crampons just below the Moseley Slab which made the ascent harder work for me. Apart from strong winds and plummeting temperatures a few hundred meters from the summit we had a fine day with clear skies at the top. There were very few teams on the mountain and we found ourselves alone on the summit. It was a great day out, although the descent is a bit of a nightmare.
Gene00 - Jul/12

Winter ascent of the Hornli, so good to have the mountain to ourselves.
robpartridge - AltLd - 31/Mar/12 with John Cummings

finally ticked matterhorn winter. 2 and half days on the mountain thanks to a morning storm, knee deep powder and bullet ice. ended up with frost bite and shredded gear but what an epic climb and view. -25 in the solvay hut with no sleeping bag was an experience not to forget. thanks to rob for teachig the alpine style and taking sweet shots.
johnrc - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/12 with robnz

darcan - AltLd - 2012 with chris bailey

wilkie14c - 01/Sep/11 with Dave Clarke

callum brown - Sep/11 with Jack Reed

Amazing day - great weather. So happy to finally do this route, loved it.
Chris Ellyatt - AltLd β - 29/Aug/11 with Paul Windross

Hidden - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

Awesome day out - camped and got ahead of the masses early on (rabbit in the headlights springs to mind!) amazing route and atmosphere - the descent was ok until i uttered the immortal words... hey i think we've done really well not to get lost.... on the main route the rock's sound but too far off and its a bit chossy.. still amazing day out - well done Nat
Timo Austino - 14/Aug/11 with Nat and Ali and Mike and Mark

dkd - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/11 with Al

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10

Peter Holder - 03/Sep/10 with Nick Valente, lewis fraser

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/10

got to the solvay hut - i'll be back!
j4kub - AltLd dnf - 03/Sep/10 with dave davey

moskitp - 01/Sep/10

great day out with no walkin! Moved together up then soloed down onced past the bivvy hut
PaulCunningham - AltLd O/S - Sep/10

Made it to Sovay Refuge hut. Too hot that day. Running out of water and food. Snow melting on 1st Moseley Slab. Time to head back down. Next time I'll try to take the cable car up instead of walking from Zermatt train station. Mammoth task!
Skinny Kin - Solo - 31/Aug/10

donkster - AltLd dnf - 26/Aug/10 with ben

dscnly - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Tomas Hallen - ISM Guide

mark-abz - 10/Aug/10 with Alex

Didn't make the summit due to poor weather and low visibility.
Gezzer - 02/Aug/10 with Nick Ellaway

Got to 3740m, turned round due to snow. Massive thunderstorm as we arrived back to hut!
Ross.Cooper - 2nd dnf - 23/Jul/10 with Remi

Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10

cliffy - 18/Jul/10 with Alan Turner

Left the Swiss summit at 12.30pm and arrived at the Hornli Hut at 7.00pm. Moving together all the time.
Adi Hooper - AltLd - 18/Jul/10 with Roger Ward

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 16/Jul/10 with Kevin O'Neale

Turned back 150m from top due to weather. What a pisser.
guyscott - 2nd dnf - 13/Jul/10 with Klas

Great experience, start early and Move quick ;-)
Thomas Healing - Lead - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - Jul/10

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/09 with Matt, tommy, Dad

Awesome...
tscoobydoo - 01/Oct/09 with Kieron Belcher, matt Kemp, phillip belcher

Did it in a weekend trip, easy route and easy to loose the route to
Phil Belcher - Lead - Oct/09 with Matt Kemp, tommy, Dad

Hidden - 11/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/09

nick bamber - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with martin knight

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - 19/Aug/09

Hidden - 17/Aug/09

kevburr - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/09 with Roger Payne

Keeping it slow but sure, I took 16 hours hut to hut. Although the conditions were probabaly as good as they can be, the approach and descent to/from the summit was still a bit icy without being roped up.
Nigel Mackwood - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/09

and Peter Hill.
bigbobbyking - 12/Aug/09 with jacob davies

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Helen Tsai

GiveHerHelen - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Jon Moulding

Busy but awesome
Bristoldave - Lead - Aug/09 with CarolineH

CarolineH - Aug/09 with Dave

Chris Plewa - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/09

With Rick Marchant, Tim Rickeard and Paul Warnock, in descent
AdamCB - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/09

Awesome, atmospheric route. Absolutely huge! Completed in 4.40 up and 4.30 down.
Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Stefano

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/09

awesome
dave.mowle - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Paul 'I'm equal to it' Summers

In descent
colenn - AltLd - 05/Jul/09 with Peter Britton, Aidan Ennis

In Descent
aennis - 05/Jul/09 with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/09

will_lake - 2nd - 24/Aug/08

Got to snowfield and turned back due to too much fresh snow. 5 hours up, 8 down. Missed last cable car. Walked back to Zermatt. Arse.
featuresforfeet - AltLd dnf - 08/Aug/08 with Steve

In Descent
Guy Wilson - Aug/08 with Byron Buck

in descent
Mark Walter - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Steve Becwith

Not as loose as seemingly made out [mind, we did follow a guided party]. Route finding in the lower section is a nightmare first time. Helped rescue two Italians caught in a rockfall. worth doing solely for the history but nothing special about the climbing barr the top snowfield...
irish paul - AltLd - Aug/08 with Ed

hilled101 - AltLd - Aug/08 with Irish

In descent after climbing Italian Ridge
Byronius Maximus - Aug/08 with Guy Wilson

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/08

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jul/08

sacdenouilles - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/08 with Graham Burns

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/08

georgec - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Sandra K

My best mountain day ever. By all accounts we made the 1st ascent this season and we were the only 2 people on the whole mountain. Still a lot of soft snow on the slabs which had turned into a constant waterfall by the time we descended. Chris's 1st trip to the Alps with borrowed crampons and ice axe and my 1st proper trip for 28 years. Ran all the way back to Zermatt giving an 18 hour day start to finish. Great weather, great mountain, great memories, perfect day.
KRB - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Chris Bridges

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Try it in late September after the hut closes for the season: when we were there mountain was virtually deserted and the weather was superb. Don't believe the Zermatt Guides' Office who insist that there's gas in the Hornlihutte's Winter Room! Plenty of blankets though.
Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 21/Sep/07 with Sophia

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/07 with helen gibson

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Roel

Andrew1 - AltLd dnf - 06/Sep/07 with Juliet Parker Smith

Hidden - Aug/07

Joubert - Aug/07

Nicos - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/07 with rich howels

CMorris - Lead - 14/Sep/06 with Jonny Shallcross

Brian Birtle - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with German Thomas

industrialiceman - 2nd - 27/Jul/05

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/05

Celia Watson - Lead - 10/Jul/05 with stuart watson

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Retreated from the solvay in storm
ashpreston - AltLd dnf - 2004

dan gibson - Solo - Sep/03

Hidden - Solo - Aug/03

Got to just past the shoulder (approx.100m from summit) and decided to turn back as was getting too late. Very nearly benighted on the descent. Spent 18 exhausting hours on this route and still didn't complete it. Have to go back and do it, but didn't enjoy the climbing much. Very loose and lots of dodging other peoples crampons. Will prepare better next time. A route not to be underestimated.
Neil Henson - AltLd - Jul/03 with Mark Collins

Got to Moseley slabs, retreated in thunderstorm.
DerwentDiluted - Solo dnf - Jul/03 with Tim Stain

Success at the third attempt. Sunny day: route just coming into condition as recent snow melted. About 60 people on it in all - not too many, considering how crowded it can get. Soloed up to Moseley Slab, then climbed roped. Lucky we did: higher up, while passing a slower party, a fair sized chunk came off in both hands and I took a plummet. Mike out of sight, but still held me: undoubtedly saved both our lives. About an hour later realised my hand was running with blood from rope burns on every segment of every finger. So much adrenaline, hadn't felt it till then. Put gloves on and carried on. 5 hrs up, but 8 down. Quick handshake to celebrate. Resigned to missing last chairlift and bivvying, but arrived to discover it was Swiss National Day and a huge party was in full swing at the station, with lifts running till late. Watched a firework display over Zermatt. Strange to be looking down on all the starbursts. Finally got back to tent about 2.00 am, finished off hip flask of whisky and began painstakingly removing bits of glove lining from all the burns. Amazing day.
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 01/Aug/01 with MikeW

Challenging conditions, but decided to give it a go. Snow and verglas everywhere - climbing with both axes at times. Out of our depth, really. Only two other teams on the mountain. Got as far as the Solvay, then decided to retreat. But a fantastic day out - worth it for the view from the Solvay, and the sight of our single track of footprints in the snow. A real sense of privilege, in having such a popular mountain virtually to ourselves. Back next year.
Andy Clarke - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/00 with MikeW

Hidden - 1998

9th Aug Head torch failed 30 mins after setting off @ 02:30 - slow climbing in the dark until dawn at 06:30. Climbed to 4270mts (200mts) below summit before reluctantly turning round, too late in the day to continue safely. Return another time better acclimatized.
Bilbo - 09/Aug/97 with Steve

7th Aug descended from Briethorn and carried camping gear up to near the Hornli Hut. Most people descending after weeks of poor weather and no succesful summits this season. 8th Aug Quick recce to 500 mts below the Solvay hut in glorious and unexpected sunshine after an atrocious night of lightning strikes on the scree nearby and snowfall whilst camping below the East face not far from Hornli hut.
Bilbo - 08/Aug/97 with Steve

Only had one day on route. Got about 1/3 way up past Hornli hut befor retreating do to time.
Martyn - Solo dnf - Sep/96 with Rob Boylin

Forgot the gas for the stove, so had to cough up for an evening meal at the hut, we bivied. 5 hours up and 3.5 down. Got the rope out to abseil 1 section as we had carried it, and were held up by ascending parties.
craig h - Solo - Aug/96 with Janet Hannah

Long day 14hours
michaelb1 - Aug/96 with Robert Durkin

Iain Thow - Lead - 19/Jul/96 with Liz Jolley

Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli
gallonj - 1996

Hidden - Solo - Jul/95

NeilGriffiths - Aug/94 with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon

With Frank M. Very strong N wind.
michaelja - Mar/94

Good to get the tick on this. What a bloody circus it was, people everywhere. Guides dragging very unfit people up on the end of a rope. If I never go back to this route I'll be happy.
paul_j_burgess - AltLd O/S - Jul/93 with Glenn Latham

In descent
Richard Weller - 10/Aug/90 with Richard White

brianrunner - AltLd - Aug/90 with John Thomson

Caught in rockfall, close escape!
Conan - Solo O/S - Jul/90

colinthrelfall - Aug/88

mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/87 with Andy W

dtalbot - 06/Sep/86 with Margret

Mickdenali - Solo - Jul/85

Hidden - Jul/85

RichardMc - 03/Aug/79 with Angel Vila

Time 5.5hrs to summit, Cy return to hut after a short distance I soloed to the Salvey hut and then joined an Austrian party. 6 hr descent to the hut and a 6hr walk back to the campsite near Zermatt. Very pleased with a successful ascent.
Nigel Bond - Solo - 20/Aug/75 with Cy and Austrian Party

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 15/Jul/75 with Stuart Scott, Howard Jones, Frank Barnes

We walked up from Zermatt (poor students, couldn't afford the cablecar) and waited for several days for the weather to clear. Did it mostly unroped (lack of competence rather than boldness), tied on at Moseley Slab. Made a very early start to get ahead of the crowds. A long and arduous day but well worth it. The day before my 21st birthday, so a double celebration when we got down. Walking back down through the meadows to Zermatt and smelling the flowers after 4 days above the snow line was nearly as memorable as the route itself.
Howard J - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/75 with Reading University MC

Hidden - 14/Aug/73

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Voting
Total votes cast 61
hard AD+0 of 30
AD+0 of 30
easy AD+1 of 30
hard AD3 of 30
AD22 of 30
easy AD4 of 30
hard AD-0 of 30
AD-0 of 30
easy AD-0 of 30
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Style of ascent

Soloed17 of 147 (11.6%)
Lead18 of 147 (12.2%)
Followed20 of 147 (13.6%)
Bouldered1 of 147 (0.7%)
Alt Leads47 of 147 (32.0%)
Unknown44 of 147 (29.9%)

'Climbed'93 of 147 (63.3%)
clean O/S36 of 147 (24.5%)
clean β3 of 147 (2.0%)
clean rpt1 of 147 (0.7%)
dnf14 of 147 (9.5%)