East Buttress*** IV 5
[Murdo on East Buttress IV Beinn Eighe, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Murdo on East Buttress IV Beinn Eighe © petemacpherson
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This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 25 wishlists.

Slowed down by deep snow and unexpected traffic on route. We were ready to start the first pitch of the buttress proper just before 4pm, decided to back off rather than attempt crux final pitch in the dark. Dangerous snow conditions on the traverse back down.
oliverk - Lead dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Pam

Hidden - Lead - Mar/14

mark-abz - 2nd - 25/Feb/14 with Paul J

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/14

buried! lots of digging required
simondunf - AltLd - 19/Feb/14 with caspar

Great climb on great mountain. Tough going on powder/unconsolidated snow.
LJKing - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/14 with Jeremy Windsor

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 14/Feb/14

Great route, and very atmospheric. Snow was a bit soft lower down.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 10/Feb/14

Dave Riley
Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/14

A fine climb! exciting traverse to the base of the route, some ambiguity over the exact line on the first pitch, 4 pitches with some good technical climbing. The shattered chimney and steep groove after were the highlights!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/14 with Andy Harrison

Hidden - 08/Feb/14

Great situation with the odd bit of good climbing. Great mountaineering style day. Initially 4, reduced to 3 parties on the route!
peter.herd - AltLd - 08/Feb/14 with Tom Shaw

freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/14 with Ewan Lyons

A great day on a route I've wanted to do for a while. Good useful snow on the ledges and nice weather. You can't go wrong in Torridon, now for the other two...
Captain Solo - AltLd - 07/Feb/14 with Paul

4 pitches of 50m. Perfect conditions. BMC meet
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/14

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/14 with Ladislav Petras

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - 2014

Great positions and fun climbing. Fantastic end to the weeks climbing under perfect conditions.
Steven Andrews - AltLd - 24/Feb/13 with Ben Tibbetts

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/13 with Tom Powell

Mr Powly - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/13 with Tom Everett

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/13

Planned to do the icefall start but not quite in condition. Soloed across the terrace which was very exposed. Did the buttress as 3 pitches, I led middle pitch.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/13 with Dave Sharp

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jan/13

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/12

Perfect winter's day! Awesome route.
mountainbagger - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Nick, Neil

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/12

thebat - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with Ontour + Fraserhughes

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/11

Didn't happen to come across a ATC guide on your travels by any chance? dropped on traverse just before 1st pitch.
allyrocke - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/11 with Rob Young

Excellent Route
rob1 - Lead - 21/Feb/11

niallk - AltLd β - 19/Feb/11 with Willie

snow cover a bit lean, approached via ledge traverse from left nad side of crag
Hannah V - 2nd - 15/Feb/10 with Rocio Siemens, Suzana El Massri

bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/10 with Andy Nisbet

lyndseymackay - Mar/09

climbed in semi-winter conditions
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with john

Took a fair while to walk in through fresh snow in the corie and along the broad terrace. Spent 3 hours digging out the first two pitches before deciding to bail.
niallk - AltLd dnf - 06/Dec/08 with Willie

Arduous approach under deep powder. Bouldery route, tech 5, very well protected. Fantastic!
danm - AltLd - 24/Mar/08 with Sion & Jimbo

Very deep snow on the approach. Epic day out!
jimdanson - AltLd - 24/Mar/08 with Dan Middleton, Sion Brocklehurst

took the wrong 1st pitch....up the corner too far left. grade V or so maybe....
dave o - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/08 with James R

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Jan/08 with Stuart Shaw, Gwilym

gdb4060 - AltLd - Aug/07 with Dave

sgl - AltLd - 10/Feb/07 with Matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/06

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 2006 with Andy N

Jamie B - AltLd - 21/Dec/04 with Simon Franks

steev - AltLd O/S - Dec/04 with Huw

Hidden - 05/Mar/03

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Oct/02

Dave Kerr - Lead - 28/Dec/00 with Iain Sharpe

graeme gatherer - 2000

Hidden - Feb/99

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 17/Nov/90 with Mike Boyle

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Zippy1999, oliverk, joeydurkin, iksander, JonmapDL, gordigotama, Andrew Barker, LJKing, jay.mac, michael83, Sonya Mc

Total votes cast 45
hard V0 of 16
V0 of 16
easy V1 of 16
hard IV9 of 16
IV6 of 16
easy IV0 of 16
hard III0 of 16
III0 of 16
easy III0 of 16
hard 60 of 15
60 of 15
easy 60 of 15
hard 50 of 15
512 of 15
easy 53 of 15
hard 40 of 15
40 of 15
easy 40 of 15
3 Stars9 of 14
2 Stars4 of 14
1 Star1 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β