Devon > Bench Tor >
 
Central Buttress VD

Adjacent Climbs
<< Rite On
 
Senior's Wall >>
[Steve and David on Central Buttress, 2 kb]12m. An entertaining initial move gives this steep little line merit. Start on a perched block at the left-hand end of the main face. 12m. Place some good gear. Bridge out over space and pull onto the rock using good but high jugs. This move is 4b if the jugs cannot be reached. Follow the steep wall above, just left of a crack, on good holds to the top. © ROCKFAX
30'. Start on a boulder at the LH edge of the more continuous section of cliff. Excellent gear allows an initial tricky move off the boulder to be enjoyed to the full. From here several possibilities present themselves. SDD describes route finishing on the right of Senior's Wall at VD grade. This would involve a somewhat L to R diaganol line. The Rockfax guide shows a more direct line on the left of the butress - steeper and a grade of HVD is given.
Andrew Borwick 1959

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Steve and David on Central Buttress © Pete Callaghan
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 93 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Jamiet297 - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with Pete Callaghan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/13

timreynolds - Lead - 15/May/13 with chris ebbutt, Sarah Welsh

Steep and memorable and great value at the grade. Would give a VDiff leader the collywobbles! The natural line for VDiff (or HVDiff) takes a left-right trend. I started straight up but it is not sufficiently protected on the left for VDiff, so I switched to finish on the right.
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with Jamie T

Chaman - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with David Llewellyn

Originally soloed on sight 4/4/84. I do not believe the Rockfax topo or description which is too far left, too hard and potentially loose. The S Devon guide is much vaguer and would allow you to climb the natural line of the crack after the start.
Kafoozalem - Solo - 05/May/13 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/May/13

skeight88 - TR - May/13 with Dominic

Felt very bold and steep for a HVD. Probably a sandbag. Maybe I was having an off day... Worth doing though.
Joel Perkin - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Simon Hammond

This is a tricky climb and although the start described seems to make the route obvious it then gets much harder and steeper than you'd expect. Having read some more descriptions of routes on this part of the tor I'm beginning to think that the big ivy patch is covering some lines and that descriptions are getting confused. The line drawn in the westcountry climbs guide is good but its at least HS 4b if not VS 4b.
simonhammond1966 - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Joel Perkin

Marktrin - 2nd - 25/Apr/13 with Phil

phil456 - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/13 with Mark G

Sandbag!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with jordon fleming

Jordon Fleming - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with ben darby

I would suggest closer to S 4a to be honest
Quarryboy - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/12 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

S 4b one star
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Rob

andy_pemberton - Lead - 19/Sep/12 with Dave Marshall

Tom Seccombe - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/12 with tj murry

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 28/Aug/12 with Marti999

One of the best views from a tor. Very exposed feeling, but bomber first DMM size 11 nut.
MarcT - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12 with lyndsey Weatherhogg, Kim Middlebrook

Steep beginning and can be a bit pumpy as it's slightly overhanging.
Infinite Granite - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Joey

Good little warm up route
Popkids - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Baz

Really pretty steep. A bit much for VD!!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 23/May/12 with Sarah Massey, Steve Gibson

Loggeron - TR - 29/Mar/12

very juggy route tricky start big first move
zachbassett10 - TR O/S - 23/Mar/12 with alex taylor

Hidden - 2012

roryferris - Lead O/S - Nov/11

p2-melhuish - Solo - Sep/11

chrisweight - TR O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Matt Thorne

Neil Rigiani - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Robin Rigiani, Julia Wherrell

martin clarke - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with nick andrews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11

looked nice route on the walk in. had arm pump looking for placement by the tree so rested. for cup of tea and aslice of cake :) look out for gravil on top out..
mike hooper - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with dave dean

Will Cat - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Jo Day

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

nickledlie - Lead - 17/Apr/11

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 09/Apr/11 with Rob Horler

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with stevieo10

abicampbell - TR O/S - Apr/11

Anne-Marie Dobner - TR - 24/Mar/11

fire_munki - 2nd β - 30/Jan/11

Exhausted after hard first move
VLogan - 2nd dnf - Sep/10 with Jonathan Logan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10

MarkRyder - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with James P

Cracking start, well protected
jamespilgrim - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Mark

jonnyridleylogan - Lead O/S - Aug/10

nice and dry this time.. had to break right onto seniors wall upper section though..
samjames91 - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/10

The start is a bit of a stretch, I think i probably climbed the lower part of Seniors Wall (up the crack!)nice route but protection limited at the top.
Wainers44 - Lead - 21/Jul/10

After a few hours at Dartrock, then the rain pouring down when I got halfway up, a fall was enevitable...
Wainers44 - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/10

retrieval of gear from unsuccessful first attempt
samjames91 - TR O/S - 16/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/10

Sean Kelly - Jun/10

Did not like the start and fell, rest of route was fine.
Orifice - 2nd dog - 18/May/10 with Tom Simpson

hard start
mew - Lead - 08/May/10

shaun.yandell - 12/Mar/10

mtom91 - Lead RP - 07/Oct/09

hamishclimb - TR - 23/Sep/09

I think the original line of this route may now be overgrown with ivy(?) as the route off the top of the obvious boulder up the steep wall is not Vdiff, more like S or HS 4a/b
Phil79 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Baz

knthrak1982 - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09

Filthy - Lead - 30/Jun/09 with Mark Symonds, Laura Church

existing debt - Lead - 04/Jun/09 with alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/08

mad matt - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

timreynolds - 2nd - 30/Aug/08 with Matt Reynolds

sdkoutdoor - TR - 12/Jan/08 with Kelly College Adventure Centre

vertically_challenged - TR rpt - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 15/Nov/07

2535rob - TR - 07/Nov/07

outdooraaron - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

Monk - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07 with RUMC

richardr - Solo - Apr/07

eley1 - Solo - Apr/07 with gareth

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - TR - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/06

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/05

timreynolds - Lead - 10/Apr/05 with Matt Reynolds

sam coward - 2nd - 2003 with Charlotte

rockferret - 2002 with Richard

Mark Kemball - Solo - 13/May/00 with Rob Galley

StoneT - Solo O/S - 2000

sixties - Lead - 06/Jun/98 with hrd

babymoac - Lead - 27/Apr/96 with Jules

colin milton - Lead - Jun/93 with eric milton

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, Dangerous Dave 123

Voting
Total votes cast 30
hard HVD3 of 16
HVD0 of 16
easy HVD11 of 16
hard VD1 of 16
VD1 of 16
easy VD0 of 16
hard HD0 of 16
HD0 of 16
easy HD0 of 16
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars7 of 14
1 Star5 of 14
0 Stars2 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed10 of 93 (10.8%)
Lead46 of 93 (49.5%)
Followed19 of 93 (20.4%)
Toproped12 of 93 (12.9%)
Alt Leads1 of 93 (1.1%)
Unknown5 of 93 (5.4%)

'Climbed'40 of 93 (43.0%)
clean O/S45 of 93 (48.4%)
clean β1 of 93 (1.1%)
clean rpt2 of 93 (2.2%)
clean RP1 of 93 (1.1%)
dogged2 of 93 (2.2%)
dnf2 of 93 (2.2%)