Devon > Bench Tor >
 
Central Buttress VD

Adjacent Climbs
<< Rite On
 
Senior's Wall >>
[Sue soloing Central Buttress, 3 kb]12m. An entertaining initial move gives this steep little line merit. Start on a perched block at the left-hand end of the main face. 12m. Place some good gear. Bridge out over space and pull onto the rock using good but high jugs. This move is 4b if the jugs cannot be reached. Follow the steep wall above, just left of a crack, on good holds to the top. © ROCKFAX
30'. Start on a boulder at the LH edge of the more continuous section of cliff. Excellent gear allows an initial tricky move off the boulder to be enjoyed to the full. From here several possibilities present themselves. SDD describes route finishing on the right of Senior's Wall at VD grade. This would involve a somewhat L to R diaganol line. The Rockfax guide shows a more direct line on the left of the butress - steeper and a grade of HVD is given.
Andrew Borwick 1959

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Sue soloing Central Buttress © Kafoozalem
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 116 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/14

steep climbing for the grade
nickdonohue - 2nd - 26/May/14 with Jamie Trump

Jamiet297 - Lead β - 26/May/14 with Nick Donohue

Holds keep coming and are solid but generally overhanging and pumpy, high in the grade.
jhobbs - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14

Skip - TR O/S - 21/May/14

steveprice.exmouth - Lead - 21/May/14 with Ben Stainsfield

Love the start, and all those jugs!
Sean Kelly - 21/May/14 with Harry Pearce

gavkellyuk - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14

Pumpy. Stretchy start
B.Chater - TR dog - 2014 with Jamie

hornbywill - 2014

robertcollier - TR O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Emily Collier

Dave Page - Lead - 26/Aug/13 with Lenaya Page

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/13

This is a worthwhile route, but exceptionally hard for the grade. HS 4b would seem more reasonable. Anyone over 6' tall may be able to reach the jugs at the start, but for the rest of us it is 4b, and quite strenuous.
Jen Mason - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/13

Motown - Solo rpt - 14/Jul/13

ledifer - 2nd β - 06/Jun/13 with kerrie mott

First outdoor lead of the year!
MarcT - Lead rpt - Jun/13 with Marktrin

Jamiet297 - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with Pete Callaghan

neiloutdoors - 2nd - 15/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/13

timreynolds - Lead - 15/May/13 with chris ebbutt, Sarah Welsh

Steep and memorable and great value at the grade. Would give a VDiff leader the collywobbles! The natural line for VDiff (or HVDiff) takes a left-right trend. I started straight up but it is not sufficiently protected on the left for VDiff, so I switched to finish on the right.
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with Jamie T

Chaman - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with David Llewellyn

Sarah Welsh - 2nd - 15/May/13 with Tim Reynolds

tracyclimber - Lead - 15/May/13 with neiloutdoors

Hidden - Solo - 05/May/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/May/13

skeight88 - TR - May/13 with Dominic

Felt very bold and steep for a HVD. Probably a sandbag. Maybe I was having an off day... Worth doing though.
Joel Perkin - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Simon Hammond

This is a tricky climb and although the start described seems to make the route obvious it then gets much harder and steeper than you'd expect. Having read some more descriptions of routes on this part of the tor I'm beginning to think that the big ivy patch is covering some lines and that descriptions are getting confused. The line drawn in the westcountry climbs guide is good but its at least HS 4b if not VS 4b.
simonhammond1966 - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Joel Perkin

Marktrin - 2nd - 25/Apr/13 with Phil

phil456 - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/13 with Mark G

redlucas - TR - 2013

Sandbag!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with jordon fleming

Jordon Fleming - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with ben darby

I would suggest closer to S 4a to be honest
Quarryboy - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/12 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

S 4b one star
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Rob

andy_pemberton - Lead - 19/Sep/12 with Dave Marshall

Tom Seccombe - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/12 with tj murry

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 28/Aug/12 with Marti999

One of the best views from a tor. Very exposed feeling, but bomber first DMM size 11 nut.
MarcT - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12 with lyndsey Weatherhogg, Kim Middlebrook

Steep beginning and can be a bit pumpy as it's slightly overhanging.
Infinite Granite - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Joey

Good little warm up route
Popkids - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Baz

Really pretty steep. A bit much for VD!!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 23/May/12 with Sarah Massey, Steve Gibson

Loggeron - TR - 29/Mar/12

very juggy route tricky start big first move
zachbassett10 - TR O/S - 23/Mar/12 with alex taylor

Hidden - 2012

roryferris - Lead O/S - Nov/11

p2-melhuish - Solo - Sep/11

chrisweight - TR O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Matt Thorne

Neil Rigiani - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Robin Rigiani, Julia Wherrell

martin clarke - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with nick andrews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11

looked nice route on the walk in. had arm pump looking for placement by the tree so rested. for cup of tea and aslice of cake :) look out for gravil on top out..
mike hooper - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with dave dean

Motown - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Jo Day

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

nickledlie - Lead - 17/Apr/11

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 09/Apr/11 with Rob Horler

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with stevieo10

abicampbell - TR O/S - Apr/11

Anne-Marie Dobner - TR - 24/Mar/11

fire_munki - 2nd β - 30/Jan/11

Exhausted after hard first move
VLogan - 2nd dnf - Sep/10 with Jonathan Logan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10

Floss's first time climb on rock
Frostie - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10

MarkRyder - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with James P

Cracking start, well protected
jamespilgrim - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Mark

jonnyridleylogan - Lead O/S - Aug/10

nice and dry this time.. had to break right onto seniors wall upper section though..
Samuel Wainwright - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/10

The start is a bit of a stretch, I think i probably climbed the lower part of Seniors Wall (up the crack!)nice route but protection limited at the top.
Wainers44 - Lead - 21/Jul/10

After a few hours at Dartrock, then the rain pouring down when I got halfway up, a fall was enevitable...
Wainers44 - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/10

retrieval of gear from unsuccessful first attempt
Samuel Wainwright - TR O/S - 16/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/10

Sean Kelly - Jun/10

Did not like the start and fell, rest of route was fine.
Orifice - 2nd dog - 18/May/10 with Tom Simpson

hard start
mew - Lead - 08/May/10

shaun.yandell - 12/Mar/10

mtom91 - Lead RP - 07/Oct/09

hamishclimb - TR - 23/Sep/09

I think the original line of this route may now be overgrown with ivy(?) as the route off the top of the obvious boulder up the steep wall is not Vdiff, more like S or HS 4a/b
Phil79 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Baz

knthrak1982 - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09

Filthy - Lead - 30/Jun/09 with Mark Symonds, Laura Church

existing debt - Lead - 04/Jun/09 with alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/08

mad matt - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08

timreynolds - 2nd - 30/Aug/08 with Matt Reynolds

sdkoutdoor - TR - 12/Jan/08 with Kelly College Adventure Centre

vertically_challenged - TR rpt - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 15/Nov/07

2535rob - TR - 07/Nov/07

outdooraaron - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

Monk - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07 with RUMC

richardr - Solo - Apr/07

eley1 - Solo - Apr/07 with gareth

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - TR - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/06

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/05

timreynolds - Lead - 10/Apr/05 with Matt Reynolds

sam coward - 2nd - 2003 with Charlotte

rockferret - 2002 with Richard

Mark Kemball - Solo - 13/May/00 with Rob Galley

StoneT - Solo O/S - 2000

sixties - Lead - 06/Jun/98 with hrd

babymoac - Lead - 27/Apr/96 with Jules

colin milton - Lead - Jun/93 with eric milton

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wezzie, Chris dyer, Ropeboy, Dangerous Dave 123

Voting
Total votes cast 45
hard HVD7 of 25
HVD2 of 25
easy HVD13 of 25
hard VD2 of 25
VD1 of 25
easy VD0 of 25
hard HD0 of 25
HD0 of 25
easy HD0 of 25
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars10 of 20
1 Star7 of 20
0 Stars3 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 116 (9.5%)
Lead54 of 116 (46.6%)
Followed27 of 116 (23.3%)
Toproped16 of 116 (13.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 116 (0.9%)
Unknown7 of 116 (6.0%)

'Climbed'51 of 116 (44.0%)
clean O/S51 of 116 (44.0%)
clean β3 of 116 (2.6%)
clean rpt5 of 116 (4.3%)
clean RP1 of 116 (0.9%)
dogged3 of 116 (2.6%)
dnf2 of 116 (1.7%)