Rockfax Description
An entertaining initial move gives this steep little line merit. Start on a perched block at the left-hand end of the main face.
Place some good gear. Bridge out over space and pull onto the rock using good but high jugs. This move is 4b if the jugs cannot be reached. Follow the steep wall above, just left of a crack, on good holds to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
30'. Start on a boulder at the LH edge of the more continuous section of cliff. Excellent gear allows an initial tricky move off the boulder to be enjoyed to the full. From here several possibilities present themselves. SDD describes route finishing on the right of Senior's Wall at VD grade. This would involve a somewhat L to R diaganol line. The Rockfax guide shows a more direct line on the left of the butress - steeper and a grade of HVD is given.

Andrew Borwick 1959

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Joe Costello 07/Jul Solo
phil456 30/Jun Lead
with Graham M
soloing 9a with out you looking ?/Jun Lead O/S

Felt harder than it was, probably due to the fairly drawn out mid section, if only i had some small cams.

leowoods 14/May Lead O/S
with Ellie
DCIGadget 13/May Lead rpt
with Mark SDMC, Nye Son
Hidden 13/May 2nd
chris ebbutt 13/May Lead

With RH finish.

EllieWoods 13/May 2nd dog

Fell off because my hands were so cold I couldn't feel that I want gripping! Definitely not vd - if you can't reach the jugs, of say hs.

with Leo
RoryA 13/May 2nd
Marktrin 13/May 2nd

Pulled on the gear (aided it) to get the first move done.

with Mark
Aneurin 13/May 2nd dog

Dad lead, struggled with first move Pete had to lift me up

with Dad
Tristan Sherlock 19/Apr Lead O/S
Tilt ?/Apr 2nd

scary for a diff even on 2nd!

becster 07/Mar Lead dog

Hard for the grade, first lead of the year, sat on gear to practice trusting my gear.

Thinker01 07/Mar 2nd

No way the grade is right

with Becster
LDJ 05/Oct/14 Lead

Severe 4a

with Lou
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jul/14 2nd O/S
nickdonohue 26/May/14 2nd

steep climbing for the grade

Jamiet297 26/May/14 Lead β
jhobbs 21/May/14 2nd O/S

Holds keep coming and are solid but generally overhanging and pumpy, high in the grade.

Skip 21/May/14 TR O/S
steveprice.exmouth 21/May/14 Lead
with Ben Stainsfield
Sean Kelly 21/May/14 -

Love the start, and all those jugs!

with Harry Pearce
gavkellyuk 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
B.Chater ??/2014 TR dog

Pumpy. Stretchy start

with Jamie
hornbywill ??/2014 -
robertcollier 22/Sep/13 TR O/S
with Emily Collier
Dave Page 26/Aug/13 Lead
with Lenaya Page
Hidden 08/Aug/13 2nd
Jen Mason 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

This is a worthwhile route, but exceptionally hard for the grade. HS 4b would seem more reasonable. Anyone over 6' tall may be able to reach the jugs at the start, but for the rest of us it is 4b, and quite strenuous.

with Julia
Hidden 16/Jul/13 2nd
Motown 14/Jul/13 Solo rpt
ledifer 06/Jun/13 2nd β
with kerrie mott
MarcT ?/Jun/13 Lead rpt

First outdoor lead of the year!

Jamiet297 15/May/13 2nd O/S
neiloutdoors 15/May/13 2nd
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
timreynolds 15/May/13 Lead
with chris ebbutt, Sarah Welsh
petecallaghan 15/May/13 Lead O/S

Steep and memorable and great value at the grade. Would give a VDiff leader the collywobbles! The natural line for VDiff (or HVDiff) takes a left-right trend. I started straight up but it is not sufficiently protected on the left for VDiff, so I switched to finish on the right.

with Jamie T
Chaman 15/May/13 2nd O/S
Sarah Welsh 15/May/13 2nd
tracyclimber 15/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 Solo
Hidden 05/May/13 Solo O/S
skeight88 ?/May/13 TR
with Dominic
Joel Perkin 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Felt very bold and steep for a HVD. Probably a sandbag. Maybe I was having an off day... Worth doing though.

with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 26/Apr/13 2nd O/S

This is a tricky climb and although the start described seems to make the route obvious it then gets much harder and steeper than you'd expect. Having read some more descriptions of routes on this part of the tor I'm beginning to think that the big ivy patch is covering some lines and that descriptions are getting confused. The line drawn in the westcountry climbs guide is good but its at least HS 4b if not VS 4b.

Marktrin 25/Apr/13 2nd
with Phil
phil456 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Mark G
redlucas ??/2013 TR
Cheese Monkey 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S


Jordon Fleming 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Quarryboy 21/Oct/12 Solo O/S

I would suggest closer to S 4a to be honest

Urgles 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

S 4b one star

with Rob
andy_pemberton 19/Sep/12 Lead
with Dave Marshall
Tom Seccombe 12/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Marti999 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
debbie roberts 28/Aug/12 2nd
MarcT 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S

One of the best views from a tor. Very exposed feeling, but bomber first DMM size 11 nut.

Infinite Granite 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Steep beginning and can be a bit pumpy as it's slightly overhanging.

with Joey
Popkids 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Good little warm up route

with Baz
andy_pemberton 23/May/12 Lead

Really pretty steep. A bit much for VD!!

with Sarah Massey, Steve Gibson
Loggeron 29/Mar/12 TR
zachbassett10 23/Mar/12 TR O/S

very juggy route tricky start big first move

Hidden ??/2012 -
roryferris ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
p2-melhuish ?/Sep/11 Solo
chrisweight 28/Jul/11 TR O/S
Neil Rigiani 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Robin Rigiani, Julia Wherrell
martin clarke 26/Jul/11 2nd
with nick andrews
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mike hooper 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

looked nice route on the walk in. had arm pump looking for placement by the tree so rested. for cup of tea and aslice of cake :) look out for gravil on top out..

with dave dean
Motown 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jo Day
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
nickledlie 17/Apr/11 Lead
BALD EAGLE 09/Apr/11 Lead
with Rob Horler
culmclimberRob 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
abicampbell ?/Apr/11 TR O/S
Anne-Marie Dobner 24/Mar/11 TR
fire_munki 30/Jan/11 2nd β
VLogan ?/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Exhausted after hard first move

Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Frostie 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Floss's first time climb on rock

MarkRyder 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Cracking start, well protected

with Mark
jonnyridleylogan ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Samuel Wainwright 21/Jul/10 2nd O/S

nice and dry this time.. had to break right onto seniors wall upper section though..

Wainers44 21/Jul/10 Lead

The start is a bit of a stretch, I think i probably climbed the lower part of Seniors Wall (up the crack!)nice route but protection limited at the top.

Wainers44 16/Jul/10 Lead dnf

After a few hours at Dartrock, then the rain pouring down when I got halfway up, a fall was enevitable...

Samuel Wainwright 16/Jul/10 TR O/S

retrieval of gear from unsuccessful first attempt

Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/10 2nd dog
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/10 -
Orifice 18/May/10 2nd dog

Did not like the start and fell, rest of route was fine.

with Tom Simpson
mew 08/May/10 Lead

hard start

shaun.yandell 12/Mar/10 -
mtom91 07/Oct/09 Lead RP
hamishclimb 23/Sep/09 TR
Phil79 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

I think the original line of this route may now be overgrown with ivy(?) as the route off the top of the obvious boulder up the steep wall is not Vdiff, more like S or HS 4a/b

with Baz
knthrak1982 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Filthy 30/Jun/09 Lead
with Mark Symonds, Laura Church
existing debt 04/Jun/09 Lead
with alan
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/08 2nd O/S
mreynolds 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
timreynolds 30/Aug/08 2nd
sdkoutdoor 12/Jan/08 TR
with Kelly College Adventure Centre
vertically_challenged ??/2008 TR rpt
Hidden 15/Nov/07 Lead
2535rob 07/Nov/07 TR
outdooraaron 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Monk 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with RUMC
richardr ?/Apr/07 Solo
eley1 ?/Apr/07 Solo
with gareth
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Oct/06 TR
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 29/May/06 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/05 Lead
timreynolds 10/Apr/05 Lead
sam coward ??/2003 2nd
with Charlotte
rockferret ??/2002 -
with Richard
Mark Kemball 13/May/00 Solo
with Rob Galley
StoneT ??/2000 Solo O/S
sixties 06/Jun/98 Lead
with hrd
babymoac 27/Apr/96 Lead
with Jules
colin milton ?/Jun/93 Lead
with eric milton
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wezzie, Chris dyer, Ropeboy, Dangerous Dave 123
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set