UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Start up Eagle's Nest but continue direct to a ledge on the right under an overhang. Move out rightwards from the ledge and then on up to finish next to a gorse bush. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The shallow corner leading to the ledge in the centre of the face. Then finish rightwards towards a gorse bush.

Cliff Fishwick, G. Seale Apr/1960.

Ticklists

By May…

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dale Turrell 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I think the photo topo in the 2017 Climbers Club Dartmoor shows the start of what is actually Songline, but the description in the 1995 Cordee guide is also confusing. Makes sense to climb the shallow corner just right of Eagles Nest up to the left side of the big ledge, then gain the ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the photo topo in the 2017 Climbers Club Dartmoor shows the start of what is actually Songline, but the description in the 1995 Cordee guide is also confusing. Makes sense to climb the shallow corner just right of Eagles Nest up to the left side of the big ledge, then gain the ledge
Dialallama 30 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t know the correct route. You can follow the left-right double cracks in the “open book corner” as per eagles nest and then exit right on the top ledge. Or climb the smaller cracks on the face just to the right of the corner, traverse right on the lower ledge and up to the top ledge via the crack on the far right. Both fun routes. Sounds like some people start even further right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don’t know the correct route. You can follow the left-right double cracks in the “open book corner” as per eagles nest and then exit right on the top ledge. Or climb the smaller cracks on the face just to the right of the corner, traverse right on the lower ledge and up to the top ledge via the crack on the far right. Both fun routes. Sounds like some people start even further right.

Logged Ascents

206 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Luckey Tor (aka Eagle Rock)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 20
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shangri-La

Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)

Loading Notifications...