Highland > Garbh Bheinn, South Wall >
 
Butterknife*** HS 4b

Adjacent Climbs
<< The Golden Lance
 
Butterknife Direct Finish >>
[Butterknife, 3 kb]VS, 4b in the Glencoe Guide

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Classic Corners.

Photo: Butterknife © Euge
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 25 wishlists.

freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Jonathan Richards

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/14

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Conrad

Great climb and rock. Weather good. not sure the overhang is 3C though.
Phill_ Thompson - 29/Jun/14 with Lucy Prins

First 3 pitches only (finished up Excalibur). The corner is amazing!
maria85 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Carol

Tightsgirl - Lead - 21/Jun/14 with Laura Goble

Led pitch 1 in the drizzle with frozen hands. Lovely climbing. Rained again on pitch 3. Missed out the top pitch on the upper tier to switch to another climb.
Carol Goodall - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Maria Parkes

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/14

newtonmore - 16/Jun/14

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Kev, Joris

RocKalina - AltLd - 20/Apr/14 with climberandy

2 great pitches and 2 fairly rubbish ones!
morsy - AltLd - 12/Oct/13 with peter berwick

Pete23 - AltLd - 12/Oct/13 with Stephen Mors

sparbus - AltLd - 08/Aug/13 with Martin Davies

I had P2+4. P2 corner pitch was absolutely awesome, 3 stars. Rest of route however not so classic, but worth it for 2nd pitch.
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Ben Sparham

Hidden - AltLd β - 20/Jul/13

fuzzysheep01 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with James Lam

jameslam - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Joe Norris

Led 2 & 4. Ace! Walter and Lisa followed on behind, a grand day oot :-)
iceicebaby - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Sam Wood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Guide book is a wee bit unclear. Top pitch direct is the most obvious continuation of the route: through the overhang at the obvious weekness and straight up the steep crack above (Vs 4c!). Couldn’t find the normal finish, round the corner and up the grassy ramp to the right?
daWalt - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Lisa

lisafer - 2nd - 08/Jun/13 with Walter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

did variation final pitch - up the wettish roof to the left - added a bit of spice at the end!
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with si

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/May/13 with David Brown

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

olekemi - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with James C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12

Brilliant second pitch
Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Sarah Laing

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12

PeteLoveless - AltLd O/S - 24/May/12 with jon

jsrous - May/12 with Pete L

s.scott - 2nd - 2012

ZA - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with Ben Robson

Good 1st and 4th pitches, fantastic 2nd, scrappy 3rd. Lovely day out :)
isi_o - AltLd - 29/Jul/11 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11

Lead P1 & 4, Tony linked P2 & 3 together. Super route, P2 good 4b.
Moonstone Hippy - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Tony Barton

oliverk - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Sarah Moorhouse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11

bottom two pitches very very nice, top two less so
tomdude - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with marie

marie_p - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

shugsan - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Matt Dooner, Tom Smith

thomasaneurinsmith - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Matt Dooner, Euan Boyd

Odd pitches. Chimney pitch wet. Did most of the direct finish except the 1st 2 moves in the groove which were also wet.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Fiona

Initial chimney wet, but wet stuff easily avoidable. Led even pitches. Did all but first part of of the direct finish (def. VS), had to avoid the start due to soaking wet dripping holds. Lovely route although pitch 3 is a bit of a let down.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Mike

escaped after pitch 2
burto - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with hertha

Hertha - Lead - 03/Jun/11 with Burto

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11

gforce - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Emma

Great route, great day
Steve Perry - AltLd - 18/Apr/11 with Katie Long

smcw - AltLd - 08/Apr/11

Katie Long - AltLd - 18/Mar/11 with Steve Perry

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/10

cam1401 - AltLd - Aug/10 with Andy G

abbeywall - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with K

Led 4c variant of pitch 4.
borderline - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Kenny R, Alison C

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/10

Cold, clear autumn day. Lovely. Saw no-one.
alan moore - Solo - Sep/09

Jeanie led pitches 1 & 3.
Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd β - 30/May/09 with Jeanie

benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 14/May/09 with guy steven

GScot38 - Lead O/S - 12/May/09

Fabulous route. But that IS a walk-in!
Rog Wilko - AltLd - 31/May/08 with Debbie Wilkinson

jimdanson - AltLd - 25/May/08 with dan middleton

Captain Solo - AltLd - 18/May/08 with Ewan

Well, its given VS 4b in the guide, I see no need to argue with that. The VS leaders Rock Idol, the middle groove pitch is steep, intimidating, but turns out to be easy. Brilliant climbing.
danm - AltLd - May/08 with Jim Danson

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - May/08 with Steev

CurlyStevo - Lead - 2008

brianrunner - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

Pitch 4 is definately 4c to get established on the upper wall.
Jamie B - Lead - Aug/98 with Will Morgan

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 16/May/98 with Gordon Innes

Iain Thow - AltLd - 19/Sep/97 with Liz Jolley, Chris Dodd

Hidden - Jun/97

Yourlead - AltLd - 27/May/90 with Doug Rennie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/90

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

David Smith - 1990

nevb - 1976

Hidden - Aug/67

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adamarchie, mike_tamanawis, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, MrRiley, Hidden, aldo56, sgl0jd, james mcclung, oscaig, Dustin, hcooper, sleeplessjb, Bradders, Hidden, Sankey, cayteye, guyscott, iceicebaby, alexanderpatton, Hidden, DerwentDiluted, mgg, Mac Ghille Aindrais

Voting
Total votes cast 112
hard VS0 of 39
VS1 of 39
easy VS23 of 39
hard HS6 of 39
HS8 of 39
easy HS0 of 39
hard S1 of 39
S0 of 39
easy S0 of 39
hard 4c0 of 37
4c1 of 37
easy 4c5 of 37
hard 4b16 of 37
4b14 of 37
easy 4b1 of 37
hard 4a0 of 37
4a0 of 37
easy 4a0 of 37
3 Stars29 of 36
2 Stars7 of 36
1 Star0 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 84 (1.2%)
Lead12 of 84 (14.3%)
Followed4 of 84 (4.8%)
Alt Leads54 of 84 (64.3%)
Unknown13 of 84 (15.5%)

'Climbed'47 of 84 (56.0%)
clean O/S35 of 84 (41.7%)
clean β2 of 84 (2.4%)