Argyll and Bute > Garbh Bheinn, South Wall >
 
Butterknife*** HS 4b

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[Isi on the Butterknife Corner, 3 kb]VS, 4b in the Glencoe Guide

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Classic Corners.

Photo: Isi on the Butterknife Corner © Peter Duggan
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 72 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

2 great pitches and 2 fairly rubbish ones!
morsy - AltLd - 12/Oct/13 with peter berwick

Pete23 - AltLd - 12/Oct/13 with Stephen Mors

sparbus - AltLd - 08/Aug/13 with Martin Davies

I had P2+4. P2 corner pitch was absolutely awesome, 3 stars. Rest of route however not so classic, but worth it for 2nd pitch.
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Ben Sparham

Hidden - AltLd β - 20/Jul/13

fuzzysheep01 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with James Lam

jameslam - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Joe Norris

Led 2 & 4. Ace! Walter and Lisa followed on behind, a grand day oot :-)
iceicebaby - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Sam Wood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Guide book is a wee bit unclear. Top pitch direct is the most obvious continuation of the route: through the overhang at the obvious weekness and straight up the steep crack above (Vs 4c!). Couldn’t find the normal finish, round the corner and up the grassy ramp to the right?
daWalt - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Lisa

lisafer - 2nd - 08/Jun/13 with Walter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

did variation final pitch - up the wettish roof to the left - added a bit of spice at the end!
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with si

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/May/13 with David

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

olekemi - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with James C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12

Brilliant second pitch
Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Sarah Laing

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12

PeteLoveless - AltLd O/S - 24/May/12 with jon

jsrous - May/12 with Pete L

s.scott - 2nd - 2012

ZA - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with Ben Robson

Good 1st and 4th pitches, fantastic 2nd, scrappy 3rd. Lovely day out :)
isi_o - AltLd - 29/Jul/11 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11

Lead P1 & 4, Tony linked P2 & 3 together. Super route, P2 good 4b.
Moonstone Hippy - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Tony Barton

oliverk - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Sarah Moorhouse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11

bottom two pitches very very nice, top two less so
tomdude - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with marie

marie_p - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

shugsan - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Matt Dooner, Tom Smith

thomasaneurinsmith - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Matt Dooner, Euan Boyd

Odd pitches. Chimney pitch wet. Did most of the direct finish except the 1st 2 moves in the groove which were also wet.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Fiona

Initial chimney wet, but wet stuff easily avoidable. Led even pitches. Did all but first part of of the direct finish (def. VS), had to avoid the start due to soaking wet dripping holds. Lovely route although pitch 3 is a bit of a let down.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Mike

escaped after pitch 2
burto - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with hertha

Hertha - Lead - 03/Jun/11 with Burto

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11

gforce - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Emma

Great route, great day
Steve Perry - AltLd - 18/Apr/11 with Katie Long

smcw - AltLd - 08/Apr/11

Katie Long - AltLd - 18/Mar/11 with Steve Perry

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/10

cam1401 - AltLd - Aug/10 with Andy G

abbeywall - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with K

Led 4c variant of pitch 4.
borderline - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with KR, abbeywall

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/10

Cold, clear autumn day. Lovely. Saw no-one.
alan moore - Solo - Sep/09

Jeanie led pitches 1 & 3.
Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd β - 30/May/09 with Jeanie

GScot38 - Lead O/S - 12/May/09

Fabulous route. But that IS a walk-in!
Rog Wilko - AltLd - 31/May/08 with Debbie Wilkinson

jimdanson - AltLd - 25/May/08 with dan middleton

Captain Solo - AltLd - 18/May/08 with Ewan

Well, its given VS 4b in the guide, I see no need to argue with that. The VS leaders Rock Idol, the middle groove pitch is steep, intimidating, but turns out to be easy. Brilliant climbing.
danm - AltLd - May/08 with Jim Danson

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - May/08 with Steev

CurlyStevo - Lead - 2008

brianrunner - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

Pitch 4 is definately 4c to get established on the upper wall.
Jamie B - Lead - Aug/98 with Will Morgan

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 16/May/98 with Gordon Innes

Iain Thow - AltLd - 19/Sep/97 with Liz Jolley, Chris Dodd

Hidden - Jun/97

Yourlead - AltLd - 27/May/90 with Doug Rennie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/90

johnkeith - AltLd - 1990 with G. Callander

David Smith - 1990

nevb - 1976

Hidden - Aug/67

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, MrRiley, Hidden, aldo56, sgl0jd, james mcclung, oscaig, Dustin, hcooper, sleeplessjb, Bradders, Hidden, Sankey, cayteye, guyscott, iceicebaby, alexanderpatton, Hidden, DerwentDiluted, mgg, Mac Ghille Aindrais

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard VS0 of 32
VS1 of 32
easy VS20 of 32
hard HS3 of 32
HS7 of 32
easy HS0 of 32
hard S1 of 32
S0 of 32
easy S0 of 32
hard 4c0 of 31
4c1 of 31
easy 4c5 of 31
hard 4b14 of 31
4b10 of 31
easy 4b1 of 31
hard 4a0 of 31
4a0 of 31
easy 4a0 of 31
3 Stars24 of 29
2 Stars5 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 72 (1.4%)
Lead11 of 72 (15.3%)
Followed4 of 72 (5.6%)
Alt Leads45 of 72 (62.5%)
Unknown11 of 72 (15.3%)

'Climbed'40 of 72 (55.6%)
clean O/S30 of 72 (41.7%)
clean β2 of 72 (2.8%)