The Magic Crack*** HVS 5a
[Paul on The Magic Crack, 3 kb]Three pitches, 4c, 5a, 5a. The third pitch is a unique and unusual finger crack.

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!.

Photo: Paul on The Magic Crack © Ron Walker
View all 24 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 227 logbooks, and on 67 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Oct/15

olekemi - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/15 with Colin D

Lawrie Brand - AltLd rpt - 29/Sep/15 with Martyn Stott, MOD

dodfoster - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with esther seddon

Callum_Johnson - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/15 with Anna

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Sep/15

pokey for HVS. good though. glad to get something done this weekend.
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with rob

robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 29/Aug/15 with Tom

Great route. Solid rock, clean as a whistle.
AC1 - 22/Aug/15 with Pete Benson

james1978 - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/15 with rich Andrews

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/15

Rope solo. 2 pitches.
Peter Rhodes - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/15

Mackinclimb - Lead - 08/Aug/15

Think the grade is fair given the protection, the top pitch is very sustained which is probably why it feels hard for 5a. Great route on great rock.
Robertgiddy - Lead - 08/Aug/15

Ben Watson - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/15

quickdrawmcraw - Lead - 21/Jul/15 with liz osbourn

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/15

Superb climb, lived up well to the hype! Second pitch is tricky and take Gary Latters 4c with a pinch of salt. Third pitch is immaculate finger jams, great gear as well!
Nath93 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15

led p.2
fweatherall1 - AltLd - 05/Jul/15

Only p1+2 then abbed down.
Mountain Gal - 2nd - 16/Jun/15

Barry Harper - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/15

Land 1 and 3
mzchambers - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/15

P2 - 1 fall
callumwaddell - AltLd dog - 12/Jun/15

In-between days on a 4 star canoe assessment at Glenmore lodge
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 11/Jun/15

led p.1
fweatherall1 - AltLd - 30/May/15

plain kitten - 2015

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/14

colin.morrison - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Ross Bingham

remi_mcm - AltLd - 28/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/14

calumhicks - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/14 with Adam Harris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/14

jimmurdo - 2nd - 25/Jul/14

The hottest day of the year so far and we decided to go for a quick hit early in the morning on a north facing cliff at 1000m. It was bloody freezing! Apart from a damp and grotty first pitch this was a sublime route. Unfortunately I dogged up the crux crack which must be the biggest sandbag ever! Either that or I just have terrible crack technique... Belayed after the crack which was great as I got to enjoy the excellent final section. We added new tat to the top ab station and a new maillon to the belay on Damnation.
MrRiley - AltLd dog - 19/Jul/14 with Richard Hines

Rickrick - AltLd - 19/Jul/14

malone - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/14 with tom shaw

rachcrewe - 2nd - 06/Jul/14 with Ian Craigie

flying traverse on abseil to clear 'bergshrund'!
kegless - AltLd - 15/Jun/14 with Tom Horrocks

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/14

After work- clag filled the coire making it a bit nippy.
jason walker - AltLd - Jun/14 with ian blackwood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Linked first two pitches together to make a 50m pitch up to the base of the main crack. Final pitch (crux pitch)eats a ton of gear! Absolutely immaculate rock and a true three star route
benclimbing - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Dan Thomas

Several meters at the bottom of the first pitch were still buried under snow, which made for a sketchy belay station on a semi-detached block floating over a dark chasm. I led what was left of the first pitch Paul led the second into a crowded hanging belay for the tree of us. Joe led the last pitch,we loved it, though it was definitely challenging. Great day out, went for a wee dip in the pool of water at the base of the Corrie (deeper than you would think). Got back to the car just in time to miss the rain.
SkylarLobdell - AltLd - 20/May/14 with Joe, Paul

Hidden - AltLd - 17/May/14

Samuel Wainwright - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Caelan, Scott

iainpowell - AltLd - 14/May/14

iainpowell - AltLd - 14/May/14

did the first pitch, was the first mountain route of the year! sketchy approach over steep snow with only tennies on
CaelanB - AltLd β - 10/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/14

GordonAinslie - 2014

sparbus - AltLd - 28/Sep/13 with dave porter

Led P2. First pitch very wet, Last pitch in some ferocious winds. Left a red DMM nut in the P3 crack if anyone fancies some crag swag (or karma if they want to send it back to me)
planetmarshall - AltLd - 22/Sep/13 with Ian Jones

Hard and sustained. 13 month lay off not a great preparation. Very windy but very memorable.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Andrew Marshall

ross brinson - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Hannah Watson

Brilliant route. But! Ruined the winter on site :)
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Vic Paterson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13

CaelanB - 2nd - 20/Jul/13

Led all piches. Brilliant route.
PeteLoveless - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Caelan, Aaron

Pete Lead all
AaronJohnstone - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Caelan Barnes, Pete Loveless

Led pitches 1 & 2. Great, sustained climbing.
Stuart S - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Amanda Lyons

scotclimb - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Dave Strang

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

donas - AltLd - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/13

Fantastic route. Lead second pitch.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Olli Crudge

Lead P1 and 3. Amazing route best HVS ive done in the UK?
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Rachel Slater

Great way to finish a quality day
pete87abs - AltLd rpt - 07/Jul/13 with Graham, rob

soloed the first two pitches but bottled it on the 'magic' pitch so joined on a rope for the last one!
Ginger McGrath - Solo - 06/Jul/13 with rob, pete abernethy

dav_713 - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Andy Hague

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13

Only the second pitch and in the wet
andrewkeith - 2nd - 11/Jun/13 with Michael Sandison

RKirke - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Alex the Alex - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with Rog

wheelsucker - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2013

Excellent climbing - must be hard as nails in winter! Lead P1 and 3
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Jonny Hawkins

Very cold wet and windy. Bottom pitch was soaking and the top a struggle with completely numb fingers. Great fun
arose - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Ruaridh MacIntyre

ruaridhmac - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Ali Rose

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/12

In the wet
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 24/Aug/12 with Pete Nellis

1 and 3
jess - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with martin

cold and windy but absolutely amazing route. Wished it would be longer!
Stephi - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with OwenF

OwenF - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Stephi

Led p1 and p3. Amazing route on a cracking day, was convinced I'd run out of gear by the overlap but managed to avoid a runout by a mix of shuffling gear, scavenging crabs from my slings and overcamming to the max
Thoms6974 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Matt

radioshed - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with andy t

SuperMike64 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Lead Pitch 2
Mike-W-99 - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Fiona

Led odd pitches. Did as 3 pitches this time. Every bit as good as the first time.
Fiona Reid - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Mike

Hidden - 10/Aug/12

Led P2
PeteLoveless - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Ben Gibson

Great route and the 3rd pitch is very consistent and just keeps coming!
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Aug/12

Started late after a long long mountain day, in the wet and high winds. Very interesting. Simon was repeatedly blow off by strong gusts of wind!
Joel Perkin - 2nd - Aug/12 with Simon Hammond

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12

Totally awesome route!!! Loved it. led P1+2.
iceicebaby - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Sam Wood

Completely dry. Increasingly difficultly. Split last pitch. Abseil to top of P1 is 55m
rbruce - AltLd - 21/Jul/12 with Derek Miller

Led 2nd pitch this time round, great route despite now with customary jammed cam, it's just not a winter line.
Captain Solo - AltLd rpt - 20/Jul/12 with Barry

Lead the first pitch and the first half of the third.
yehti - AltLd - 16/Jul/12 with Iain Smith

Led all 3 pitches. Superb!!
bnewman - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Amelia

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12

Led p1&3, absolutely amazing climbing. P3 must be one of the finest HVS pitches in Scotland.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Max Hunter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 26/Mar/12 with Sandy

AGoodi - AltLd - 24/Mar/12 with Andy Laing

AGoodi - AltLd - 24/Mar/12 with Andy Laing

PAJames - 22/Mar/12

Did a Magic Crack and The Genie combo; P1&2 of Magic Crack and last pitch of the Genie. I know I missed the best bit so need to go back and redeem myself!
Gibson27 - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Patzl - 2012

Patzl - 2012

Steven Carter - Lead O/S - 2012

joeydurkin - AltLd - 30/Sep/11 with Jockey

Lead P1, Johnny P2 & Tony P3.
Moonstone Hippy - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Tony Barton, Johnny

I led P1, P3. Janey P2. Wet on bottom pitch, Sopping cracks on 2 and 3. Never have I found a 5a so scary and gear enducing, 13 bits in final pitch, 9 below the overlap! A personal record for any climb! Saw the winter damage, Dont think it really matters, one day i'll climb it in winter too! Magic. :)
sneaks - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with janey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11

jordanmatthewdavies - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Sam Clark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

Oliver Hopper - 2nd - 30/Jul/11

Lead P1, P3. top pitch is brilliant! 55m abseil from belay at top of P3 to the spike belay at top of P1.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Claire Holland

llamaglama - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with Jam

One of the best pitches of that grade I've climbed!
whistler - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Ryan

uber classic. feels quite pokey for the grade though!
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd rpt - 13/Jul/11 with pete

cuthill76 - Lead - 02/Jul/11

Lead the main corner pitch and bulge. Frigging amazing.
t_stork - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Anna Wells

Anna_wells - AltLd - 02/Jul/11 with Tom _ Stork

burto - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with calum, hertha

Bottom pitch a bit wet, rest fine. Found it easy for the grade though very sustained. Provokes a bit thought on what winter climbing does to the rock (though I don't agree at all with those saying it's ruined)
johannes - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11

henning82 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11

lead middle pitch, found it hard, but exciting
Hertha - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Calum, Burto

Led the crux pitch. Felt hard for the grade. Great route, shame about all the damage from damage from winter ascents.
henwardian - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Lasma

Lasma - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with henwardian

KeithAlexander - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Martin Dempster

crossing the snowfield added a bit of spice to an otherwise ordinary first pitch. the rest of the route was just awesome crack climbing even with the aid marks
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/11

newtonmore - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Oct/10

Best HVS in Scotland (maybe?)
T-Cam - AltLd - 09/Oct/10 with Duncan

Wet & cold down the bottom. Fantastic otherwise. Split pitch 3 into 2.
Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Fiona

Simply awesome. Led as 4 pitches, splitting the final crack pitch into 2 sections, one to the top of the crack, the second to the final belay. I led pitches, 2 & 3, Mike did 1 and 4. Pretty sustained but there is gear in abundance, small fingers very useful!!
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Mike

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Ferdia

2nd pitch
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/10

chapmand - AltLd - 02/Sep/10 with Hannah Appleton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/10

Awesome route, felt very hard for HVS but that might have been the rain, seeps and cold. Split into 4 pitches, led 1 and 3. Robert fell on the last move on pitch 4 in the rain - but got straight back on and finished it off.
barney_edin - AltLd - 25/Aug/10 with Andrew, Robert

Done as 4 pitches, I led 2 and 4. Stephen led the crack, a fantastic bit of climbing and hard for the grade. As I left that belay the rain started which led to me slipping off the last move before the final belay, I then led this a slightly different way (still on route). A very good day out if damp at times and soaking at others.
Roberttaylor - AltLd - 25/Aug/10 with Stephen Barnes, Andrew Hutcheson

Calzzak - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Robert Taylor

schaff - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Chris

Took a chance with the weather. Just started to rain as Iain started up the magic crack. Ab in the rain. Iain's first multi pitch.
glenngordon - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with iain sneddon

Split it into 4 pitches, lead 2 & 4. Great climbing!
Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Simon Pearce

Top pitch superb despite damage from winter ascents. Led pitches 1 and 3. First pitch very wet and grotty. It doesn't look like anyone uses the corner by the beak anymore.
gjd - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Mapleleaf

1st pitch was wet so climbed the rib on the left and traversed in above. Stunning top pitch!!
tallthinmonkey - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Josh Plant

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10

benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Alex Randall, Remus Knowles

arandall - 2nd O/S - Jul/10 with Ben Kelsey, remus knowles

Chris M - Lead - 28/Jun/10 with Tommy B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/10

donas - AltLd - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/10

MouseHunter - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

DuckingFesperate - Lead - 2010

Led finger crack, wonderful
Captain Solo - AltLd - 17/Oct/09 with James

stiff when you've fat fingers but great route
Pete Main - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Andrew S

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Sep/09

Was chuffin freezing! Couldn't feel my feet on last pitch, so pulled on gear. Must go back when its warm.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd dog - 20/Sep/09 with Liz

liz-264 - AltLd - 20/Sep/09 with Hightower

2nd and 3rd pitches are just AMAZING climbing... perhaps the most enjoyable route i've been on this year.
freudy_love - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/09 with Jim Baird

andyinglis - AltLd β - 22/Aug/09 with mal_meech

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Excellent top pitch
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/09 with Vicky Mayes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/09

Hidden - 03/Aug/09

Vicki M - AltLd - 03/Aug/09 with Lawrie

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09

D.Russell - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Adam

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 24/Jul/09

The crack is great fun, take more gear than normal as the crack eats it up, then the roof and bulges above.
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Dan

Dougie Harvey - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Finlay Wild

2nd and 3rd pitches are excellent. Descend by 2 abseils on good fixed gear (can go past pins at pitch 2 belay to pitch 1) with 2 60m ropes.
dgray455 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Simon_d

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/09

This one is a bit good. First pitch is really an 'approach pitch'!
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Chris wilson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/09

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/09 with caroline

Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/09 with Mark Mosgrove

magic_mice - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/09 with Michael McGhie

Fantastic. Perfect day if a little slow due to party infront. That Crack....Magic!
dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Pete Abernethy

amazing, lead first pitch.. followed the hard ones!
johnrc - AltLd - 24/Jun/09 with pete and dave

superb route want to do it again
pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Dave and John

Oh my god....
Colin Matheson - 2nd - 21/Jun/09 with Ray Sharples

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jun/09

Steve Perry - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with Dan Bailey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09

RebekahD - 2nd - 31/May/09 with Mum

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with David

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Kris & Trevor

Jamie Simpson - 2009 with Andy Munro and Moire Langmuir

great route with a sustained crack pitch.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with brian

best rock route in Sneachda. Brilliant climbing on grippy granite, a real 3 star route.
jazzyjackson - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Jimbob

ed woods - AltLd dnf - 02/Aug/08 with Marshall

First multi-pitch second.
BobPorter - 2nd - 31/Jul/08 with Donald

Awesome route up some amazing rock features! split the last pitch into 2 so that we both got more fun!
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Andy

Awesome climb would be a mega classic if it was longer. The first pitch was easy and a wee bit bold the second was a great appetizer for what was to come. The main event was a sweet finger crack, really pumpy but for the feet! I belayed after the crack as Id used all the small/ mead gear. The next pitch was great as well with a tenuous pull through the over lap then up cracked slabs to the ab point.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Neil Mackenzie

adw07 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Mark Jarvie

Great climb! i was luck and got to lead the top pitch!! sheeshk what a climb.
R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with allan

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 21/Jun/08 with Ivor McCourt, Mike Boyle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/08

fritz_in_aotearoa - 2008

Alco-nomic - AltLd - 2008

snakebite - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/07 with Sam Doyle

breithorn4164 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Jackson

dave o - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Julia H

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/01

Scotsken - Jun/99

Scotsken - 1999

Niall B - 2nd - Aug/98

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
GrahamUney, mishabruml, Victor Ivanov, sebbi30, Chris Sansum, DavidMcK, blue_sundown, Adamski1986, JamesLloyd, gavinpeach, Martin Davies, thomasmcalonan, j.richards, JonmapDL, Brian Smith 84, rbruce, Calder, sleeplessjb, bnewman, woodsy, Will Hunt, franksnb, holly138, Dustin, gavin88, Ian Jones, stephenmckenzie, PMCV, richardlong78, Brendan, cashley, HIGHTOWER, joeydurkin, Sandy Simpson, Ropeboy, Sean Bell, bluebrad, Mac Ghille Aindrais, Rowie B

Total votes cast 207
hard E10 of 77
E11 of 77
easy E14 of 77
hard HVS31 of 77
HVS39 of 77
easy HVS2 of 77
hard VS0 of 77
VS0 of 77
easy VS0 of 77
hard 5b0 of 62
5b1 of 62
easy 5b7 of 62
hard 5a41 of 62
5a12 of 62
easy 5a1 of 62
hard 4c0 of 62
4c0 of 62
easy 4c0 of 62
3 Stars65 of 68
2 Stars3 of 68
1 Star0 of 68
0 Stars0 of 68
Bag of .....0 of 68
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat