Three pitches, 4c, 5a, 5a. The third pitch is a unique and unusual finger crack.

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!.

Colin Dyer 03/Oct/15 AltLd

Brilliant route, sustained final pitch.

with Ole
olekemi 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Colin D
rockstott 30/Sep/15 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 29/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
with Martyn Stott, MOD
dodfoster 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Callum_Johnson 13/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Anna
Hidden 07/Sep/15 AltLd
tomdude 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

pokey for HVS. good though. glad to get something done this weekend.

with rob
robertmichaeladams 29/Aug/15 AltLd
with Tom
AC1 22/Aug/15 -

Great route. Solid rock, clean as a whistle.

with Pete Benson
james1978 20/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with rich Andrews
Hidden 20/Aug/15 AltLd
Peter Rhodes 15/Aug/15 Solo O/S

Rope solo. 2 pitches.

Mackinclimb 08/Aug/15 Lead
Robertgiddy 08/Aug/15 Lead

Think the grade is fair given the protection, the top pitch is very sustained which is probably why it feels hard for 5a. Great route on great rock.

Ben Watson 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
quickdrawmcraw 21/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/15 2nd
Nath93 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Superb climb, lived up well to the hype! Second pitch is tricky and take Gary Latters 4c with a pinch of salt. Third pitch is immaculate finger jams, great gear as well!

fweatherall1 05/Jul/15 AltLd

led p.2

kirstypallas 16/Jun/15 2nd

Only p1+2 then abbed down.

Barry Harper 15/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mzchambers 12/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Land 1 and 3

callumwaddell 12/Jun/15 AltLd dog

P2 - 1 fall

Tim Hamlet 11/Jun/15 AltLd

In-between days on a 4 star canoe assessment at Glenmore lodge

fweatherall1 30/May/15 AltLd

led p.1

plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
remi_mcm 28/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 27/Aug/14 AltLd
calumhicks 27/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Adam Harris
Hidden 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
jimmurdo 25/Jul/14 2nd
MrRiley 19/Jul/14 AltLd dog

The hottest day of the year so far and we decided to go for a quick hit early in the morning on a north facing cliff at 1000m. It was bloody freezing! Apart from a damp and grotty first pitch this was a sublime route. Unfortunately I dogged up the crux crack which must be the biggest sandbag ever! Either that or I just have terrible crack technique... Belayed after the crack which was great as I got to enjoy the excellent final section. We added new tat to the top ab station and a new maillon to the belay on Damnation.

with Richard Hines
Rickrick 19/Jul/14 AltLd
malone 10/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with tom shaw
rachcrewe 06/Jul/14 2nd
with Ian Craigie
kegless 15/Jun/14 AltLd

flying traverse on abseil to clear 'bergshrund'!

with Tom Horrocks
Hidden 07/Jun/14 AltLd
jason walker ?/Jun/14 AltLd

After work- clag filled the coire making it a bit nippy.

with ian blackwood
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Linked first two pitches together to make a 50m pitch up to the base of the main crack. Final pitch (crux pitch)eats a ton of gear! Absolutely immaculate rock and a true three star route

with Dan Thomas
SkylarLobdell 20/May/14 AltLd

Several meters at the bottom of the first pitch were still buried under snow, which made for a sketchy belay station on a semi-detached block floating over a dark chasm. I led what was left of the first pitch Paul led the second into a crowded hanging belay for the tree of us. Joe led the last pitch,we loved it, though it was definitely challenging. Great day out, went for a wee dip in the pool of water at the base of the Corrie (deeper than you would think). Got back to the car just in time to miss the rain.

with Joe, Paul
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd
Samuel Wainwright 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Caelan, Scott
iainpowell 14/May/14 AltLd
iainpowell 14/May/14 AltLd
CaelanB 10/May/14 AltLd β

did the first pitch, was the first mountain route of the year! sketchy approach over steep snow with only tennies on

Hidden ?/May/14 AltLd O/S
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
sparbus 28/Sep/13 AltLd
with dave porter
planetmarshall 22/Sep/13 AltLd

Led P2. First pitch very wet, Last pitch in some ferocious winds. Left a red DMM nut in the P3 crack if anyone fancies some crag swag (or karma if they want to send it back to me)

Ian Jones 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Hard and sustained. 13 month lay off not a great preparation. Very windy but very memorable.

with Andrew Marshall
ross brinson 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Hannah Watson
geoff.comley 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. But! Ruined the winter on site :)

Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
CaelanB 20/Jul/13 2nd
PeteLoveless 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Led all piches. Brilliant route.

with Caelan, Aaron
AaronJohnstone 18/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Pete Lead all

Stuart S 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 2. Great, sustained climbing.

scotclimb 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave Strang
Hidden 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
donas 09/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/13 AltLd
Rachel Slater 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Lead second pitch.

Olli-C 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and 3. Amazing route best HVS ive done in the UK?

pete87abs 07/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Great way to finish a quality day

with Graham, rob
GraMc 06/Jul/13 Solo

soloed the first two pitches but bottled it on the 'magic' pitch so joined on a rope for the last one!

with rob, pete abernethy
dav_713 ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hague
Hidden 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
andrewkeith 11/Jun/13 2nd

Only the second pitch and in the wet

with Michael Sandison
RKirke 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Alex the Alex ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Rog
wheelsucker ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd O/S
cbeard 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing - must be hard as nails in winter! Lead P1 and 3

arose 01/Sep/12 Lead

Very cold wet and windy. Bottom pitch was soaking and the top a struggle with completely numb fingers. Great fun

ruaridhmac 01/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Tim Hamlet 24/Aug/12 AltLd

In the wet

with Pete Nellis
jess 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

1 and 3

with martin
Stephi 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

cold and windy but absolutely amazing route. Wished it would be longer!

with OwenF
OwenF 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Stephi
Plungeman 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3. Amazing route on a cracking day, was convinced I'd run out of gear by the overlap but managed to avoid a runout by a mix of shuffling gear, scavenging crabs from my slings and overcamming to the max

with Matt
radioshed 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


with andy t
SuperMike64 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Mike-W-99 10/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Lead Pitch 2

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 10/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led odd pitches. Did as 3 pitches this time. Every bit as good as the first time.

with Mike
Hidden 10/Aug/12 -
PeteLoveless 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Ben Gibson
Gibson27 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great route and the 3rd pitch is very consistent and just keeps coming!

Joel Perkin ?/Aug/12 2nd

Started late after a long long mountain day, in the wet and high winds. Very interesting. Simon was repeatedly blow off by strong gusts of wind!

with Simon Hammond
Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
iceicebaby 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Totally awesome route!!! Loved it. led P1+2.

rbruce 21/Jul/12 AltLd

Completely dry. Increasingly difficultly. Split last pitch. Abseil to top of P1 is 55m

with Derek Miller
Captain Solo 20/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch this time round, great route despite now with customary jammed cam, it's just not a winter line.

with Barry
yehti 16/Jul/12 AltLd

Lead the first pitch and the first half of the third.

bnewman 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches. Superb!!

with Amelia
Hidden 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Ken Applegate 27/Mar/12 AltLd

Led p1&3, absolutely amazing climbing. P3 must be one of the finest HVS pitches in Scotland.

with Max Hunter
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/12 Lead
AmyG 24/Mar/12 AltLd
AmyG 24/Mar/12 AltLd
PAJames 22/Mar/12 -


Gibson27 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Did a Magic Crack and The Genie combo; P1&2 of Magic Crack and last pitch of the Genie. I know I missed the best bit so need to go back and redeem myself!

Patzl ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
joeydurkin 30/Sep/11 AltLd
with Jockey
Moonstone Hippy 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, Johnny P2 & Tony P3.

with Tony Barton, Johnny
sneaks 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1, P3. Janey P2. Wet on bottom pitch, Sopping cracks on 2 and 3. Never have I found a 5a so scary and gear enducing, 13 bits in final pitch, 9 below the overlap! A personal record for any climb! Saw the winter damage, Dont think it really matters, one day i'll climb it in winter too! Magic. :)

with janey
Hidden 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
jordanmatthewdavies ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Sam Clark
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Oliver Hopper 30/Jul/11 2nd
JamieSparkes 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lead P1, P3. top pitch is brilliant! 55m abseil from belay at top of P3 to the spike belay at top of P1.

llamaglama 24/Jul/11 2nd
with Jam
whistler 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

One of the best pitches of that grade I've climbed!

with Ryan
mulletcocktail2000 13/Jul/11 AltLd rpt

uber classic. feels quite pokey for the grade though!

with pete
cuthill76 02/Jul/11 Lead
t_stork 02/Jul/11 AltLd

Lead the main corner pitch and bulge. Frigging amazing.

with Anna Wells
Anna_wells 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Tom _ Stork
burto 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with calum, hertha
johannes 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Bottom pitch a bit wet, rest fine. Found it easy for the grade though very sustained. Provokes a bit thought on what winter climbing does to the rock (though I don't agree at all with those saying it's ruined)

henning82 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hertha 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead middle pitch, found it hard, but exciting

with Calum, Burto
henwardian 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitch. Felt hard for the grade. Great route, shame about all the damage from damage from winter ascents.

with Lasma
Lasma 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henwardian
KeithAlexander 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Martin Dempster
danimal88 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

crossing the snowfield added a bit of spice to an otherwise ordinary first pitch. the rest of the route was just awesome crack climbing even with the aid marks

with Ben
Hidden 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 09/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
T-Cam 09/Oct/10 AltLd

Best HVS in Scotland (maybe?)

with Duncan
Mike-W-99 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Wet & cold down the bottom. Fantastic otherwise. Split pitch 3 into 2.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Simply awesome. Led as 4 pitches, splitting the final crack pitch into 2 sections, one to the top of the crack, the second to the final belay. I led pitches, 2 & 3, Mike did 1 and 4. Pretty sustained but there is gear in abundance, small fingers very useful!!

with Mike
Andy Moles 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with Andy
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd
chapmand 02/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
barney_edin 25/Aug/10 AltLd

Awesome route, felt very hard for HVS but that might have been the rain, seeps and cold. Split into 4 pitches, led 1 and 3. Robert fell on the last move on pitch 4 in the rain - but got straight back on and finished it off.

with Andrew, Robert
Roberttaylor 25/Aug/10 AltLd

Done as 4 pitches, I led 2 and 4. Stephen led the crack, a fantastic bit of climbing and hard for the grade. As I left that belay the rain started which led to me slipping off the last move before the final belay, I then led this a slightly different way (still on route). A very good day out if damp at times and soaking at others.

with Stephen Barnes, Andrew Hutcheson
Calzzak 25/Aug/10 2nd O/S
schaff 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
glenngordon 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Took a chance with the weather. Just started to rain as Iain started up the magic crack. Ab in the rain. Iain's first multi pitch.

with iain sneddon
Chris L Hill 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Split it into 4 pitches, lead 2 & 4. Great climbing!

with Simon Pearce
gjd 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Top pitch superb despite damage from winter ascents. Led pitches 1 and 3. First pitch very wet and grotty. It doesn't look like anyone uses the corner by the beak anymore.

tallthinmonkey 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

1st pitch was wet so climbed the rib on the left and traversed in above. Stunning top pitch!!

with Josh Plant
Hidden 04/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
arandall ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Chris M 28/Jun/10 Lead
with Tommy B
Hidden 28/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
donas 27/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/10 AltLd
MouseHunter ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
Captain Solo 17/Oct/09 AltLd

Led finger crack, wonderful

with James
Pete Main 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

stiff when you've fat fingers but great route

with Andrew S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 AltLd
HIGHTOWER 20/Sep/09 AltLd dog

Was chuffin freezing! Couldn't feel my feet on last pitch, so pulled on gear. Must go back when its warm.

with Liz
liz-264 20/Sep/09 AltLd
freudy_love 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S

2nd and 3rd pitches are just AMAZING climbing... perhaps the most enjoyable route i've been on this year.

with Jim Baird
andyinglis 22/Aug/09 AltLd β
Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 03/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent top pitch

Hidden 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/09 -
Vicki M 03/Aug/09 AltLd
with Lawrie
Hidden 28/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 24/Jul/09 AltLd dnf
simon_D 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

The crack is great fun, take more gear than normal as the crack eats it up, then the roof and bulges above.

with Dan
Dougie Harvey 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Finlay Wild
dgray455 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

2nd and 3rd pitches are excellent. Descend by 2 abseils on good fixed gear (can go past pins at pitch 2 belay to pitch 1) with 2 60m ropes.

with Simon_d
Hidden 04/Jul/09 AltLd
Chris wilson 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing apart from the first pitch which is not very good and was a bit damp in the mist. Led the superb finger crack - a must do climb

with Seb
sebrider 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

This one is a bit good. First pitch is really an 'approach pitch'!

Hidden 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
michael83 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Neilm18 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
magic_mice 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dj_brigham05 24/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic. Perfect day if a little slow due to party infront. That Crack....Magic!

johnrc 24/Jun/09 AltLd

amazing, lead first pitch.. followed the hard ones!

with pete and dave
pete87abs 24/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

superb route want to do it again

with Dave and John
Colin Matheson 21/Jun/09 2nd

Oh my god....

with Ray Sharples
Hidden 20/Jun/09 AltLd
Steve Perry ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
RebekahD 31/May/09 2nd

with Mum
gaz.marshall 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with David
Roger Cruse 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Trevor
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
with Andy Munro and Moire Langmuir
mulletcocktail2000 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

great route with a sustained crack pitch.

with brian
jazzyjackson 31/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

best rock route in Sneachda. Brilliant climbing on grippy granite, a real 3 star route.

with Jimbob
ed woods 02/Aug/08 AltLd dnf
BobPorter 31/Jul/08 2nd

First multi-pitch second.

with Donald
Neil Mackenzie 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome route up some amazing rock features! split the last pitch into 2 so that we both got more fun!

with Andy
andymoin 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb would be a mega classic if it was longer. The first pitch was easy and a wee bit bold the second was a great appetizer for what was to come. The main event was a sweet finger crack, really pumpy but for the feet! I belayed after the crack as Id used all the small/ mead gear. The next pitch was great as well with a tenuous pull through the over lap then up cracked slabs to the ab point.

Hidden 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
R0bbie 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Great climb! i was luck and got to lead the top pitch!! sheeshk what a climb.

with allan
Bruce Kerr 21/Jun/08 Lead
with Ivor McCourt, Mike Boyle
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
fritz_in_aotearoa ??/2008 -
Alco-nomic ??/2008 AltLd
snakebite 16/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Sam Doyle
breithorn4164 08/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Jackson
dave o 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Julia H
Hidden 06/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/01 Lead
Scotsken ?/Jun/99 -
Scotsken ??/1999 -
Niall B ?/Aug/98 2nd
pingora 15/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
with Jim E
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
sazzles, Cloverleaf, Hidden, cd_smiffy, Garry_C, metrorat, swmackey, Droyd, SJPowderham1, Wand, Hidden, Hidden, mishabruml, Hidden, Hidden, Victor Ivanov, sebbi30, Hidden, Chris Sansum, Hidden, Hidden, DavidMcK, Alpenglow, Hidden, Pete-West88, Adamski1986, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, JamesLloyd, Hidden, Martin Davies, Hidden, thomasmcalonan, Hidden, Hidden, j.richards, Jon_dL, Hidden, Brian Smith 84, rbruce, Calder, sleeplessjb, Hidden, bnewman, Hidden, Hidden, woodsy, Hidden, Will Hunt, Hidden, franksnb, holly138, Dustin, Hidden, gavin88, Hidden, Ian Jones, stephenmckenzie, Hidden, PMCV, richardlong78, Hidden, Brendan, cashley, HIGHTOWER, joeydurkin, Sandy Simpson, Hidden, Ropeboy, Hidden, bluebrad, Mac Ghille Aindrais, Rowie B, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 78
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set