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Sabotørfossen*** WI5

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[Sabotorfossen, 2 kb]3 pitches. Three pitches. A genuine classic of the area. The first pitch follows a slab to a belay under a little overhang. The second pitch is partly hidden from below. Continue up and to the left, following a chimney with some old scrap metal inside. Early in the season it can be a good idea to bring some rock protection on this pitch. Belay below the steep third pitch, which is normally best taken on the right. To reach the best belay a 60m rope is needed. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Sabotorfossen © Tim Bateman
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 96 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/14

Bit wet on top pitch
Blackthorn - 2nd - 08/Mar/14 with Ollie

First pitch only as too melty
Blackthorn - Lead - 06/Mar/14 with Ollie

Bottom pitches in decent condition. Top pitch was very wet.
andy dunn - 2nd - 03/Mar/14 with J

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Feb/14

SPD224 - AltLd - 26/Feb/14 with Martin Smith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/14

A bit wet but great route. Deb did first pitch
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/14 with Debbie

Hidden - 25/Feb/14

Two pitches, bailed as it got dark!
Ander - Lead - 22/Feb/14 with Bad Toro

Only did first 2 pitches as we thought the conditions weren't great. However when we got to the 2nd belay it looked ok, however was getting dark so absailed off. Great fun though.
Sparrowmonkey - 2nd - 22/Feb/14 with Bootcamp Broadman

Pay attention - Lead - 21/Feb/14 with Stewart Young

Excellent, worth its stars but nowhere near WI5. Suspect it could be, near the start of the season when it hasn't seen so much traffic.
planetmarshall - AltLd - 20/Feb/14 with Amy Goodill

guy757 - 17/Feb/14

James Thacker - 16/Feb/14 with Kris Hill

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/14

Done as 4 pitches, 1st Si, 2nd Dan then 3rd & 4th pitches on lead for me. Last pitch was steep & wild but fun. Awesome classic route.
WillCass - AltLd - 01/Feb/14 with Dan, Si

Late in the day, so did two pitches before abbing off. Dan first, me second pitch which at present is thin & steep.....nice
WillCass - AltLd - 30/Jan/14 with Dan, Si

Matt Barnes - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/14 with John V

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 17/Jan/14 with Dave Amoss

SPD224 - AltLd - 01/Mar/13 with Andy Bunnage

tjmillen - AltLd - 28/Feb/13 with Charlie

Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/13

P2
Andrew Wilson - AltLd rpt - 17/Feb/13 with cliff shasby

gw3285 - 2nd - 14/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/12

tomwheeler - AltLd - 24/Feb/12

Led pitch 1 and 3. Last pitch was wild!
bengt - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/12 with Chuck, Dom

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/12 with Will Marshall

Led pitches 1,3,4. Pitch 4 was the steepest ice I've ever climbed. Felt great afterwards!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/12 with Jack S

Getting thinner by the day in the middle section and well beaten out at the top but still a fantastic route.
Tim Bateman - Lead - 01/Mar/11 with Nick Horton

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/11

Did the first and third pitch. Super easy because of the many hook placements, but somewhat sketchy to protect, because of thin hollow ice and many predrilled holes. Still a superb route though.
supos - AltLd rpt - 25/Feb/11 with Lars Fjendbo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11

Highly recommended! P2 somewhat mixed condition
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 14/Feb/11 with Lawrence

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11

wence - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11 with Rob

edmitchell - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/11 with Yashvi Wimasalesna, adam booth

Amazing!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/11 with Yash

yashvi - 2nd - 09/Feb/11 with Adam Booth, Edwin Mitchell

Hidden - 06/Feb/11

mschmude - Feb/11

Mr Wild - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/11 with Simon Ward

simonward - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

P1 only, to have a look.
Andrew Wilson - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/11 with Pete Nugent

Followed "Oscar" up p1, just for a look
Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Oscars Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11

joeydurkin - AltLd - 20/Jan/11 with Mark P

mark88 - AltLd - 20/Jan/11 with Joey Durkin

Superb classic! - A 'must do' Rjukan
astrange - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/11 with Simon Lund

alan1234 - Lead O/S - 2011

Led the easy first pitch, then let Buur do his thing on the real climbing. Superb route - an ultra classic for a reason!
supos - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Sune Buur

Moved together first two pitches (up to the pillar) which Daniel led. Nice warm-up before Juvsöyla!
DanielJ - 2nd rpt - Mar/10 with Daniel J.

Henrik - AltLd - 24/Feb/10 with Josef + Joakim

Led Pitches 1 and 3. Really nice! Last pitch doesn't offer much for ice screw placements though.
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/10 with Neil Dowse

mic_b - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Feb/10

Led crux pitch
machars - AltLd - 16/Feb/10 with Ben Smith

Lead easy pitch
Bex_M - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Barra

tuukka - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/10 with Juha

Soloed the first pitch.
juhah - 2nd - 12/Feb/10 with Tuukka Holopainen

Eetu - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/10 with Matti L.

1st pitch JD, 2nd JR, 3rd JR
joeydurkin - AltLd - 25/Jan/10 with John R

Led pitches 2 & 3
John Roe - AltLd - 25/Jan/10 with Joey Durkin

alpinestar_no1 - AltLd β - 10/Jan/10

richardlong78 - AltLd - Jan/10 with Dave Gleave

Timmy first pitch upto the hanging curtain.Stance built far left corner. I lead 2nd pitch great vertical climbing swung left and built a 3rd stance next to last pillar of steep ice wher timmy topped us out Abseiled the route out Great climb ***
Jamie Degel - AltLd - Jan/10 with Timothy Riches

patsaunders - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 2010

ig248 - 2nd - Dec/09

DanielJ - AltLd rpt - 07/Mar/09 with linus

MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 05/Mar/09 with Si Mann

Nicos - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/09 with stuart mcinnes, garry wheeler

Neil led P1, Me P2, James P3
Gustav - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/09 with James H and Neil

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Feb/09

DanielJ - AltLd rpt - 16/Feb/09 with daniel, viktor

DanielJ - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/09 with anders

A classic, very atmospheric and rather scottish like, with plenty of water running down as well!
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/09 with Scott Becker

scottbecker - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/09 with Andrew Warren

Jamie Simpson - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 18/Dec/08

mgeek - Lead O/S - 2008 with tom sandison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/07

lithos - 2nd - 08/Mar/07 with TonyM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/07

feilx - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Seb

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/07 with Steve Grove

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/07

Very wet. Got soaked to the skin on the second pitch.
jimdanson - AltLd - 24/Feb/06 with Dan Robinson

2,L,2,L. And agaiin on 18/2/07 withh Anette.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/06 with Simon Howe, Andy Tallent

Ander - 25/Jan/05

Tarquin - 2nd - 2005

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, Ally Gillies

Voting
Total votes cast 29
hard WI5+0 of 15
WI5+0 of 15
easy WI5+0 of 15
hard WI50 of 15
WI56 of 15
easy WI57 of 15
hard WI4+1 of 15
WI4+1 of 15
easy WI4+0 of 15
3 Stars14 of 14
2 Stars0 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead19 of 96 (19.8%)
Followed17 of 96 (17.7%)
Alt Leads52 of 96 (54.2%)
Unknown8 of 96 (8.3%)

'Climbed'46 of 96 (47.9%)
clean O/S41 of 96 (42.7%)
clean β1 of 96 (1.0%)
clean rpt5 of 96 (5.2%)
dnf2 of 96 (2.1%)
Unknown1 of 96 (1.0%)