Sabotørfossen*** WI5
[Sabotorfossen, 2 kb]3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Three pitches. A genuine classic of the area. The first pitch follows a slab to a belay under a little overhang. The second pitch is partly hidden from below. Continue up and to the left, following a chimney with some old scrap metal inside. Early in the season it can be a good idea to bring some rock protection on this pitch. Belay below the steep third pitch, which is normally best taken on the right. To reach the best belay a 60m rope is needed. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Sabotorfossen © Tim Bateman
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Phenomenal climb. Led pitch 2 as a 50m pitch which was brilliant. Glen led pitch 1 and 3. Pitch 3 was great steep ice.
gavinpeach - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/15 with Jason, Glen Dickson

Led pitch 1 and 3. 1 was maybe a short wi4 with a sketchy thin ice section before the belay. Gav led pitch 2 over beautiful hanging chandeliers. Last pitch is the hardest and most sustained on similar Icey formations. But felt easy for the grade with good stepped sections for the feet at just the right points. An amazing classic climb in superb condition. Double abseil on bolted anchors.
ClimbingGlen - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/15 with Jason Bryce, Gavin Peach

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 20/Feb/15

Charlie Zephyr Booth - AltLd - 12/Feb/15 with tim millen

Lee lead pitches 1 and 3. Great lead by Lee on the 3rd pitch.
csab1978 - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Lee Harrison

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches. Climbed the final pitch on the left-hand side, which was more like a 4 via this way. Centre of the fall was too wet to consider a more sustained line. Really good route.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Christian Bradstreet

Fantastic
ffdalton - AltLd - 07/Feb/15 with Dean Dalton

Led P1 (cruddy ice covered in snow - unpleasant), followed P2 - a brilliant and varied pitch worth 3 stars by itself, led P3 steep ice with some hooking. An excellent route. Abseiled down as deep snow prevented us from walking out.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/15

HP9 - 2nd - Jan/15 with Paddy cave

Paul Hastwell - 2015

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/14

Bit wet on top pitch
Blackthorn - 2nd - 08/Mar/14 with Ollie

First pitch only as too melty
Blackthorn - Lead - 06/Mar/14 with Ollie

Bottom pitches in decent condition. Top pitch was very wet.
andy dunn - 2nd - 03/Mar/14 with J

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Feb/14

SPD224 - AltLd - 26/Feb/14 with Martin Smith

BoulderyDave - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/14

A bit wet but great route. Deb did first pitch
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/14 with Debbie

Hidden - 25/Feb/14

Two pitches, bailed as it got dark!
Ander - Lead - 22/Feb/14 with Bad Toro

Only did first 2 pitches as we thought the conditions weren't great. However when we got to the 2nd belay it looked ok, however was getting dark so absailed off. Great fun though.
Sparrowmonkey - 2nd - 22/Feb/14 with Bootcamp Broadman

Pay Attention - Lead - 21/Feb/14 with Stewart Young

Excellent, worth its stars but nowhere near WI5. Suspect it could be, near the start of the season when it hasn't seen so much traffic.
planetmarshall - AltLd - 20/Feb/14 with Amy Goodill

guy757 - 17/Feb/14

James Thacker - 16/Feb/14 with Kris Hill

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/14

Done as 4 pitches, 1st Si, 2nd Dan then 3rd & 4th pitches on lead for me. Last pitch was steep & wild but fun. Awesome classic route.
WillCass - AltLd - 01/Feb/14 with Dan, Si

Late in the day, so did two pitches before abbing off. Dan first, me second pitch which at present is thin & steep.....nice
WillCass - AltLd - 30/Jan/14 with Dan, Si

Matt Barnes - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/14 with John V

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 17/Jan/14 with Dave Amoss

mileshill540 - AltLd - 2014

SPD224 - AltLd - 01/Mar/13 with Andy Bunnage

tjmillen - AltLd - 28/Feb/13 with Charlie

Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/13

P2
Andrew Wilson - AltLd rpt - 17/Feb/13 with cliff shasby

gw3285 - 2nd - 14/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/12

tomwheeler - AltLd - 24/Feb/12

Led pitch 1 and 3. Last pitch was wild!
bengt - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/12 with Chuck, Dom

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/12 with Will Marshall

Led pitches 1,3,4. Pitch 4 was the steepest ice I've ever climbed. Felt great afterwards!
Cardi - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/12 with Jack S

Getting thinner by the day in the middle section and well beaten out at the top but still a fantastic route.
Tim Bateman - Lead - 01/Mar/11 with Nick Horton

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/11

Did the first and third pitch. Super easy because of the many hook placements, but somewhat sketchy to protect, because of thin hollow ice and many predrilled holes. Still a superb route though.
supos - AltLd rpt - 25/Feb/11 with Lars Fjendbo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11

Highly recommended! P2 somewhat mixed condition
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 14/Feb/11 with Lawrence

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11

wence - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/11 with Rob

edmitchell - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/11 with Yashvi Wimasalesna, adam booth

Amazing!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/11 with Yash

yashvi - 2nd - 09/Feb/11 with Adam Booth, Edwin Mitchell

Hidden - 06/Feb/11

mschmude - Feb/11

Mr Wild - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/11

simonward - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

P1 only, to have a look.
Andrew Wilson - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/11 with Pete Nugent

Followed "Oscar" up p1, just for a look
Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Oscars Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11

joeydurkin - AltLd - 20/Jan/11 with Mark P

mark88 - AltLd - 20/Jan/11 with Joey Durkin

Superb classic! - A 'must do' Rjukan
astrange - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/11 with Simon Lund

alan1234 - Lead O/S - 2011

Led the easy first pitch, then let Buur do his thing on the real climbing. Superb route - an ultra classic for a reason!
supos - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Sune Buur

Moved together first two pitches (up to the pillar) which Daniel led. Nice warm-up before Juvsöyla!
DanielJ - 2nd rpt - Mar/10 with Daniel J.

Henrik - AltLd - 24/Feb/10 with Josef + Joakim

Led Pitches 1 and 3. Really nice! Last pitch doesn't offer much for ice screw placements though.
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/10 with Neil Dowse

mic_b - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/10

C Mclean - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10 with Gary Wheeler

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Feb/10

Led crux pitch
machars - AltLd - 16/Feb/10 with Ben Smith

Lead easy pitch
Bex_M - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Barra

tuukka - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/10 with Juha

Soloed the first pitch.
juhah - 2nd - 12/Feb/10 with Tuukka Holopainen

Eetu - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/10 with Matti L.

1st pitch JD, 2nd JR, 3rd JR
joeydurkin - AltLd - 25/Jan/10 with John R

Led pitches 2 & 3
John Roe - AltLd - 25/Jan/10 with Joey Durkin

alpinestar_no1 - AltLd β - 10/Jan/10

richardlong78 - AltLd - Jan/10 with Dave Gleave

Timmy first pitch upto the hanging curtain.Stance built far left corner. I lead 2nd pitch great vertical climbing swung left and built a 3rd stance next to last pillar of steep ice wher timmy topped us out Abseiled the route out Great climb ***
Jamie Degel - AltLd - Jan/10 with Timothy Riches

patsaunders - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 2010

ig248 - 2nd - Dec/09

DanielJ - AltLd rpt - 07/Mar/09 with linus

MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 05/Mar/09 with Si Mann

Nicos - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/09 with stuart mcinnes, garry wheeler

Neil led P1, Me P2, James P3
Gustav - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/09 with James H and Neil

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Feb/09

DanielJ - AltLd rpt - 16/Feb/09 with daniel, viktor

steveb2006 - Lead - 27/Jan/09 with Valerie Partington

DanielJ - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/09 with anders

A classic, very atmospheric and rather scottish like, with plenty of water running down as well!
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/09 with Scott Becker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/09

Valdres Fjellguider - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 18/Dec/08

mgeek - Lead O/S - 2008 with tom sandison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/07

lithos - 2nd - 08/Mar/07 with TonyM

Smith42 - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/07 with Iain Gardner

feilx - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Seb

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/07 with Steve Grove

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/07

Very wet. Got soaked to the skin on the second pitch.
jimdanson - AltLd - 24/Feb/06 with Dan Robinson

2,L,2,L. And agaiin on 18/2/07 withh Anette.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/06 with Simon Howe, Andy Tallent

Ander - 25/Jan/05

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

plain kitten - Lead - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JWTM, iksander, Ally Gillies

Voting
Total votes cast 34
hard WI5+0 of 17
WI5+0 of 17
easy WI5+0 of 17
hard WI50 of 17
WI57 of 17
easy WI58 of 17
hard WI4+1 of 17
WI4+1 of 17
easy WI4+0 of 17
3 Stars17 of 17
2 Stars0 of 17
1 Star0 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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