Rockfax Description
Three pitches. A classic waterfall that is also an important historical ascent in Rjukan. However, the waterfall is an overflow for the power plants in the area which means that it can be flooded at any time without warning. For this reason we cannot recommend an ascent of this route. The first pitch follows wide and good ice. Usually the best belay can be found to the left. Continue up the second pitch on increasingly narrow ice to a belay inside a cave. Continue up the ice wall at the back of the cave and branch out left onto an icy slab. Follow this slab to a low-angled chimney and climb out of the chimney on the left (thin or no ice) when you reach the chockstone (a Friend 3 is useful here). © Rockfax

sanguine ?/Feb AltLd O/S

My first lead on multi pitch ice - lead up the first pitch in decent conditions, a bit wet at the second pitch in the grotto - no ice left for the last pitch and crux - some nice overhang roof to get on top

with Jonn, Edvin
Avinash Aujayeb ?/Jan TR dog
with Paddy cave
HP9 ?/Jan 2nd
with Paddy cave
ritid ?/Jan 2nd


guy757 18/Feb/14 -
James Thacker 18/Feb/14 Lead

In poor condition at the moment, not recommended.

with Kris Hill
guy757 15/Mar/13 -
mark32 ?/Mar/13 -
benny_m 15/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Pay Attention 15/Feb/13 -
Sophie Nunn 07/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Sarp, Floris
sarpedon 07/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

3 pitches, 3 people, 3 leads. I led pitch 1, Soph pitch 2, Floris pitch 3.

6aPunter ??/2013 -
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
muzz44 ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
supos 26/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed to the cave in one pitch, which involved some simul climbing, as our rope was only 50m. Good climb in a fantastic setting. Somewhat ruined by the many hook placements.

with Lars Fjendbo
Dibdawg 18/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

1st n' 3rd leads, awkward finish over a well iced bolder on a long run out, could have done with some nuts..!

with Jason Roberts
Andrew Wilson 05/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

P2 and P3

Pete Nugent 05/Feb/11 AltLd rpt

Led p2 last year so led p1 this year. Pitch 3 was was leaner & much tougher than last year. Went direct over the rhs of the chockstone.

Hidden 05/Feb/11 -
mschmude ?/Feb/11 -
simonward 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Mr Wild 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Goose4 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
joeydurkin 20/Jan/11 AltLd
with Mark P
mark88 20/Jan/11 AltLd
with Joey Durkin
Ross Young 20/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Big thanks to the people who told the hydro technicians that we were down there. Their pump house broke down the same day we were there and were planning on flushing water on us.

with Mark from Glenmore
Thoms6974 19/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Didn't get washed off! Excellent climbing with a squeeze though a hole under the major chockstone after the third belay as there wasn't any ice on the slabs to the left. Di guiding myself and Graeme as part of the MCofS trip to Rjukan 2011

with Di, Graeme
arduff ?/Jan/11 2nd
alan1234 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
C Mclean 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Karl, Kieran O' Sullivan
Tim Bateman 21/Feb/10 Lead
with George Bird
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/10 AltLd
Rampikino 15/Feb/10 Lead
with Cat
Hidden 12/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 12/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Barra
Pete Nugent 11/Feb/10 AltLd

led.p2. Excellent conditions, thick ice in chimney on p.3 so relatively easy - WI3+ in these conditions.

with Chris Vernon
Big Lee 03/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Climbed in 2 pitches. Climbed out through the back of the cave on the second pitch which was great fun. Ice conditions were all over the place on the route. At one point I realised I was climbing on ice a couple of inches thick beneath which was running water. Great route.

alpinestar_no1 10/Jan/10 AltLd β
keith leonard ??/2010 AltLd
KeithW 13/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Rob long 1st pitch, me 2nd 'fun' pitch. Superb location, conditions & weather.

with Lithos
lithos 13/Mar/09 AltLd

great route, fantastic location, phat ice. 1st pitch 60m on rope stretch !

with keithw
DanielJ 08/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

In two pitches, pretty thin in upper part. Fun route in cool setting.

with linus
Nicos 03/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with stuart mcinnes
Hidden 08/Feb/09 2nd
Kaiser999 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Great climb in amazing soroundings.Problems with deep powder in places. Beautiful top pitch

with Ian Atkinson
GScot38 ?/Jan/09 Lead
andysroom ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
Hidden 04/Feb/08 Lead
ShaneHoubart ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Drapes ?/Feb/08 2nd
with Rosie Goolden
DanielJ 17/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with anders
ashpreston ??/2008 -
Hidden 06/Mar/07 Lead dnf
Will Homoky 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3.

with Tom Hindson
Mike Hall 02/Mar/07 2nd

Brilliant climb, very thin ice slab pitch 3

with GGraham
Ally Gillies ?/Mar/07 2nd

Fantastic route. Very cold on 1st/2nd pitch as stuck behind another party. Watched Norwegians romp up Lipton. The cave is lovely and the 3rd pitch was a belter

with Cam, Kev Callaghan, cedric and mark
Andrew Sloan 27/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Steve Grove
Hidden 27/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Smelly Fox 22/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with Matt Croll
plain kitten ??/2000 Lead
charlesmfrench ??/1999 AltLd O/S


with Björn
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ritid, Hidden, Hidden, RobEdwards, Andre Clarke, Hidden, Rampikino, dez, Hidden
High WI4+
Mid WI4+
Low WI4+
High WI4
Mid WI4
Low WI4
High WI3+
Mid WI3+
Low WI3+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set