Rjukanfossen*** WI4
[Rjukanfossen, pitch 3, Upper Gorge, Rjukan, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Three pitches. A classic waterfall that is also an important historical ascent in Rjukan. However, the waterfall is an overflow for the power plants in the area which means that it can be flooded at any time without warning. For this reason we cannot recommend an ascent of this route. The first pitch follows wide and good ice. Usually the best belay can be found to the left. Continue up the second pitch on increasingly narrow ice to a belay inside a cave. Continue up the ice wall at the back of the cave and branch out left onto an icy slab. Follow this slab to a low-angled chimney and climb out of the chimney on the left (thin or no ice) when you reach the chockstone (a Friend 3 is useful here). © ROCKFAX

Photo: Rjukanfossen, pitch 3, Upper Gorge, Rjukan © robdan
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This climb is in 67 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

My first lead on multi pitch ice - lead up the first pitch in decent conditions, a bit wet at the second pitch in the grotto - no ice left for the last pitch and crux - some nice overhang roof to get on top
sanguine - AltLd O/S - Feb/15 with Jonn, Edvin

Avinash Aujayeb - TR dog - Jan/15 with Paddy cave

HP9 - 2nd - Jan/15 with Paddy cave

ritid - 2nd - Jan/15

guy757 - 18/Feb/14

In poor condition at the moment, not recommended.
James Thacker - Lead - 18/Feb/14 with Kris Hill

guy757 - 15/Mar/13

mark32 - Mar/13

benny_m - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Paul

Pay Attention - 15/Feb/13

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/13 with Sarp, Floris

3 pitches, 3 people, 3 leads. I led pitch 1, Soph pitch 2, Floris pitch 3.
sarpedon - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/13 with Strong Sophhie

6aPunter - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/12

muzz44 - AltLd O/S - Feb/12

Climbed to the cave in one pitch, which involved some simul climbing, as our rope was only 50m. Good climb in a fantastic setting. Somewhat ruined by the many hook placements.
supos - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/11 with Lars Fjendbo

1st n' 3rd leads, awkward finish over a well iced bolder on a long run out, could have done with some nuts..!
Dibdawg - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/11 with Jason Roberts

P2 and P3
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11 with Pete Nugent

Led p2 last year so led p1 this year. Pitch 3 was was leaner & much tougher than last year. Went direct over the rhs of the chockstone.
Pete Nugent - AltLd rpt - 05/Feb/11 with Oscars Dad

Hidden - 05/Feb/11

mschmude - Feb/11

simonward - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Mr Wild - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

joeydurkin - AltLd - 20/Jan/11 with Mark P

mark88 - AltLd - 20/Jan/11 with Joey Durkin

Big thanks to the people who told the hydro technicians that we were down there. Their pump house broke down the same day we were there and were planning on flushing water on us.
Ross Young - 2nd O/S - 20/Jan/11 with Mark from Glenmore

Didn't get washed off! Excellent climbing with a squeeze though a hole under the major chockstone after the third belay as there wasn't any ice on the slabs to the left. Di guiding myself and Graeme as part of the MCofS trip to Rjukan 2011
Thoms6974 - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/11 with Di, Graeme

arduff - 2nd - Jan/11

alan1234 - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/10

C Mclean - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/10 with Karl, Kieran O' Sullivan

Tim Bateman - Lead - 21/Feb/10 with George Bird

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/10

Rampikino - Lead - 15/Feb/10 with Cat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/10

Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/10 with Barra

led.p2. Excellent conditions, thick ice in chimney on p.3 so relatively easy - WI3+ in these conditions.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 11/Feb/10 with Chris Vernon

Climbed in 2 pitches. Climbed out through the back of the cave on the second pitch which was great fun. Ice conditions were all over the place on the route. At one point I realised I was climbing on ice a couple of inches thick beneath which was running water. Great route.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/10 with Stewart Young

alpinestar_no1 - AltLd β - 10/Jan/10

keith leonard - AltLd - 2010

Rob long 1st pitch, me 2nd 'fun' pitch. Superb location, conditions & weather.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/09 with Lithos

great route, fantastic location, phat ice. 1st pitch 60m on rope stretch !
lithos - AltLd - 13/Mar/09 with keithw

In two pitches, pretty thin in upper part. Fun route in cool setting.
DanielJ - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/09 with linus

Nicos - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/09 with stuart mcinnes

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Feb/09

Great climb in amazing soroundings.Problems with deep powder in places. Beautiful top pitch
Kaiser999 - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Ian Atkinson

GScot38 - Lead - Jan/09

andysroom - AltLd O/S - Jan/09

Jamie Simpson - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 04/Feb/08

ShaneHoubart - AltLd O/S - Feb/08

Drapes - 2nd - Feb/08 with Rosie Goolden

DanielJ - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/08 with anders

ashpreston - 2008

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Mar/07

Lead P1 and P3.
Will Homoky - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Tom Hindson

Brilliant climb, very thin ice slab pitch 3
Mike Hall - 2nd - 02/Mar/07 with GGraham

Fantastic route. Very cold on 1st/2nd pitch as stuck behind another party. Watched Norwegians romp up Lipton. The cave is lovely and the 3rd pitch was a belter
Ally Gillies - 2nd - Mar/07 with Cam, Kev Callaghan, cedric and mark

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/07 with Steve Grove

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/06 with Matt Croll

plain kitten - Lead - 2000

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1999 with Björn

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ritid, RobEdwards, Andre Clarke, Rampikino, dez

Total votes cast 22
hard WI4+0 of 11
WI4+0 of 11
easy WI4+0 of 11
hard WI40 of 11
WI410 of 11
easy WI40 of 11
hard WI3+1 of 11
WI3+0 of 11
easy WI3+0 of 11
3 Stars11 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat