East Ridge* II
[east ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn, 1 kb]300m. A very enjoyable winter scramble, slightly harder if the steep initial section is taken directly, but this is easily avoidable.

The easiest approach from the road is now via the east bank of the Allt na h-Uamha, fording it at the northern edge of the first plantation in order to join the track heading north.

Ticklists: Britain's winter ridges.

Photo: east ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn © Mjenn2
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This climb is in 168 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo - 27/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/15

Couple of pitches up the right North side of the ridge then headed for home
arose - Lead - 18/Feb/15 with Clients

Soggy snow, avoidable on lower section. Some pleasant ice and good turf higher up on steeper sections.
fuzzysheep01 - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/15 with Karl Stewart

Still easy fun despite on going turbo-thaw!
Karlos - Solo - 18/Feb/15 with Joe Norris

Hidden - 18/Feb/15

Tom F Harding - Solo - 17/Feb/15 with Sam Collins

sheelba - Solo - 17/Feb/15

stev1e.wilso - Solo - 15/Feb/15 with Tom

Great fun.
arose - Solo - 26/Jan/15

Wild, mostly solo other than a little steep step near the bottom which we through a quick pitch in. Nearly turned around but guys coming up behind assured us the top wasn't far away, glad we stuck it out! First winter climb for my partner today!
Nath93 - Solo - 13/Jan/15

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jan/15

Took the most direct line through each of the rocky steps. wet and windy but awesome!
aljones91 - AltLd - 11/Jan/15 with Ben hester

Jack Hirst - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/15 with Jim Butterworth

A lot of snow on the approach! Route was in good condition, if a bit damp. http://www.applemountaineering.co.uk/2014/12/17/east-ridge-of-beinn-achaorainn/
Ken Applegate - Lead - 17/Dec/14 with Nick

tomdude - Solo - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Mar/14

Solo scrambling for most of the ridge. We roped for a short steep step. Lots of snow but powdery and unconsolidated which made the upper section interesting.
yehti - AltLd - 01/Mar/14 with Susan Young

girlymonkey - 01/Mar/14 with Tom Young

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/14

Hidden - Solo - 24/Feb/14

Hidden - 17/Feb/14

Louvet - 17/Feb/14 with Tarquin

Absolutely buried (approach and descent too). One pitch, soloed the rest. Gale force crosswinds, driving snow and spindrift and reducing vis to near zero, added interest to the upper half. Had to throw snow around to figure out what was ridge and what was thin air. Normal for Scotland!
Jinete Palido - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/14

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/14

Street - 2nd - 11/Feb/14

Laura Hamlet - 08/Feb/14

Solo on all but one section. Tons of snow in places, not much rock showing but good some decent placements for axes.
ralphio - Lead - 07/Feb/14

Hidden - 06/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/14

swmackey - AltLd - 06/Feb/14 with Chris Cookson

ross brinson - Solo - 02/Feb/14 with Mehmet Karatay

ma.cecilia - 2nd O/S - 01/Feb/14 with John Orr, Roisin Malone

Hidden - Lead - Feb/14

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jan/14

white out and 40+mph gusts made for a interesting but fun day
soup212 - 29/Jan/14

Better than expected considering the mild mild (and wet) walk in; clouds parted to give some good visibility on route too. Route well covered with solid enough snow we just cramponed+two axed up without ever getting out whatever minimal gear we had. Another party of two also out.
timday - Solo - 22/Jan/14 with SteveS

One of three groups on the ridge today, so the route finding was made easier by the party in front of us. The clag lifted at the top and we got great views down to Loch Treig.
BUZZ1984 - Lead - 04/Jan/14 with LucyG

Dave Richards - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13

Chrismith - Solo - 23/Nov/13

Hidden - Solo - 02/Nov/13

Hidden - Solo - 11/Mar/13

Hidden - Solo - 11/Mar/13

Neil Mackenzie - Solo - Mar/13 with jim, kenny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Feb/13

niallk - Solo - 24/Feb/13 with Anne, Sarah

Beauty day. Found a dead 9 pointer in the coire below the ridge, after some nifty work with the adze I managed the route with a fine trophy tied to my sack.
Louis Hume - Lead - 22/Feb/13 with Hair Bear, Jenny

Jenny Hall - 2nd - 21/Feb/13 with tom wood, Louis

Absolutely superb route with such an entertaining range and sustained route. Beautiful alpine conditions and such a great top out onto the ridge.
Jenny Hall - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with tom wood, Louis

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/13

Elsier - Solo O/S - 09/Feb/13 with Chrissie, Miles, Michael, Ian

jon22 - Solo - 06/Feb/13

jamesofdeath - Solo - Feb/13 with Justin Lochrie

Hidden - Solo O/S - Feb/13

Hidden - 31/Jan/13

Rich H - 2nd - 31/Jan/13 with Tarquin, Gary

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jan/13

nich0las - Lead - 26/Jan/13 with Catriona C

The ridge was nicely wind blown and a good option today with strong winds. Some nice wee walls to climb which can make the grade a harder II but most can be voided.
Yourlead - Lead - 20/Jan/13 with Paul Freeman

Hidden - Solo - 19/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jan/13

Andy Moles - Solo - 14/Jan/13 with Iain Murray

Fantastic route.
ladislav - Solo O/S - 2013 with Chrissie, Ian, Surge, Elsie

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Solo - 31/Dec/12

Moved together over the top section.
kelliroberts3 - 31/Dec/12 with Peter Rigby

Moved together
Pete Rigby - 31/Dec/12 with Joe Rigby, Kelli Roberts

Hidden - 15/Dec/12

Took as direct a line as we could up the crest - solid II on the day.
Moonstone Hippy - Solo - 18/Nov/12 with Phill T

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/12

Wessex mc 'winter' day out!
tomshanti - Solo O/S - 28/Feb/12 with Steve Wales, James Bisset, Max Streeton, Alan Blanchflower, Thomas Vaughan

A brilliant sunny day with lots of new snow after the previous day's blizzards. All very Alpine. Lots of harder options available, we took many of them, overall standard probably about top-end II. And apart from 2 skiers and a solo walker, we had the whole mountain to ourselves! Such a good day (despite the arrival of clag) we completed the horseshoe by walking up Creag Meagaidh afterwards.
Simon Caldwell - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Carmen

A very wild day with gusts of about 70-80mph and tons of spindrift. The ridge itself is very nice. Open to lots of variation. We took the first few buttresses direct to give some nice turfy pitches of about grade III. Avoiding everything would give a good mountaineering adventure at grade I. Although there were huge cornices, the ridge avoided these.
Will Smith - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/12 with Rob

Wild, crawling along some sections, we played making it hard at start and then got a shift on, no cornice where ridge meets top. bearings off top in gusty conditions. Will's feet trashed by new boots ! Safe in avalanchey conditions
lithos - 18/Feb/12 with will smith

Warm day; walked up in soft snow with one axe. Crampons/rope/gubbins all stayed in the pack (although glad of semi-frozen turf in places). Nice route; would revisit in "proper" winter conditions.
timday - Solo O/S - 11/Feb/12

Andy Hudson - 2nd - 10/Feb/12 with Dick Winslow

Cwallace - Feb/12

aneate - Jan/12

mark88 - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Matt Barker

joeydurkin - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Chris W, Sarah A

Hidden - Solo - 19/Mar/11

dellboy - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/11

Moved together
ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/11 with Esther Seddon

Hidden - Solo - 03/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Feb/11

Route chosen due to Avalanche risk elsewhere. Quite a few other groups did the same thing. Great day out, battered by storm force winds on the descent.
PieMan - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with James, Mike, Bill, Paul, Jim

Adam Booth - Solo O/S - 20/Feb/11 with David Hillibrandt

Moved together on the ridge. Route chosen due to high avalanche risk on slopes. A fun route - would be great if it was longer.
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/11 with James Hoyes, Simon Caldrick

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/11

Great old school mountaineering route;possible to make significantly harder by taking the harder options up the various outcrops/steps - description mentions the first but the best pitch is to turn the last main step on the left to find a lovely little chimney pitch at about 3 ?
jandyd05 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/11 with Dave Kenyon

Hidden - 16/Feb/11

Great route and a cracking day out. Lost a crampon on descent though..F..k!!
keith hal - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/11 with Iain Mckenzie

Roger Cruse - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/11 with Kris & George

myoung - Solo - 14/Feb/11

George Ormerod - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/11 with Roger, Kris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/11

An excellent ridge. Conditions were very good despite a thin layer of new snow. No views unfortunately but the mist certainly made it atmospheric! Looks like it was a popular choice today.
Only a hill - Solo - 12/Feb/11 with James Roddie

A really nice ridge. A fair of bit of fresh snow and a white out for much of the day. Lots of avalanche debris around.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Alex Roddie

Nice atmospheric climb. Very busy, 5 in front and 9 behind but still felt remote.
Mike-W-99 - Solo - 12/Feb/11 with Fiona

Took the direct start and stayed on the ridge for most of the route, rope remained in the rucksack as any difficulties were short lived. It seemed to be a popular route choice given the conditions. Many thanks to the Roddie brothers for breaking trail for everyone!
Fiona Reid - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Mike

Hidden - Solo - 11/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/11

tim newton - Solo O/S - 01/Feb/11

Andrew Barker - Solo - 23/Jan/11 with John Barker

colin fagan - Solo - 22/Jan/11

Sean20 - 19/Jan/11 with Chris

Moved together for most of the ridge, pitched one section which looked more fun than the easy route. Great fun, unfortunately the cloud moved in about halfway up so we didn't get any good views from the top.
Sutty22 - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/11 with Sean

Hidden - Solo - 18/Jan/11

oliverk - 2011

ar1fbr - 2011 with Donatien Jegat

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Sean Kelly - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Dec/10

Hidden - Solo - 18/Dec/10

Rachael's first winter route. Bit thin on snow, but good climbing on icy turf & rock.
isi_o - 15/Dec/10 with Gillian Culshaw, Jamie Bankhead, Rachael Murphy

Hidden - Solo - 15/Dec/10

Hidden - 07/Mar/10

IJHunt - 2nd O/S - Mar/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Feb/10

Took the direct start: 50m of mixed climbing up the buttress; then a very nice exposed alpine ridge to the summit. Recommend taking the longer approach along the forest tracks from the layby near Allt a' Chaorainn rather than thrashing around off-piste like we did...
CathS - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/10 with Andy Golborne

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/10

niall88 - 2nd - 19/Feb/10

Shane Redhead - 19/Feb/10 with niall88

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10

One short pitch over a rock step near the start. Very nice ridge walk.
daWalt - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Lisa

Hidden - Solo - Feb/10

Braintax - AltLd - Feb/10

Climbed alpine style on a short rope, moving together all the time.
Stuart Macfarlane - Lead - 17/Jan/10 with Jeanie

Alpine-like conditions. Dry rock at the bottom, decent neve where the angle eases. Great route.
niallk - Solo O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Willie

jeffb - Solo O/S - 07/Mar/09 with John

Moving together
Batt - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/09 with James Hoyes

Hidden - Lead - 17/Feb/09

John Kettle - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/09

Hidden - 04/Jan/09

whispering nic - Solo O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Wavy Dot

andrewb - 2009

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Dec/08

DundeeDave - Solo O/S - 30/Nov/08 with Ewan Gourlay

roryifinlay - Solo - Mar/08

tractorbachcoch - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/08 with Teresa

Lady T - 22/Jan/08 with Iwan

Captain Solo - Solo - 10/Jan/08

Hidden - 2008

No snow really, so just a summer scramble. Lovely day out.
Monk - Solo O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Alan

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Jan/07

Hidden - Solo - 28/Jan/07

Watty - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/07 with W.Watt, Spike

Hidden - 15/Apr/06

Sankey - Solo - 26/Feb/06 with Andy B

malc - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/06 with Adele and Paul

Tom Last - AltLd - Feb/06 with Denise & Kevin

Sean Bell - AltLd - Feb/06 with col, Tom

jdgaventa - 2nd - Feb/06 with james davies

niall_mac - Solo - Feb/06

Andrew1 - 2nd - Feb/05 with Andy Lewington

Stuart Macfarlane - Lead - Jan/03 with Mhairi, Andy W

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/01

Hidden - 06/Feb/00

Richard Weller - 10/Jan/00 with Alan Kimber, douglas Hall

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 05/Dec/98 with Jenny Kerr

Also in summer 10/9/09 with Mary Mackey, Jack Wilson & Gordon Laing
Iain Thow - Solo - 28/Feb/98 with Russ, Liz Jolley

Moved togther
A Crook - Solo - 22/Mar/96 with Dom Stockton

crowberry gully - 2nd - 03/Feb/95 with Alan Kimber

nevis guides
auld al - Solo O/S - 1987

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
OwenF, vix, arose, punj, Dustin, iksander, wibb20, halfaseesaw, Boulderdash86, johnkeith, Al Kells

Total votes cast 59
hard II/III0 of 23
II/III0 of 23
easy II/III0 of 23
hard II0 of 23
II3 of 23
easy II2 of 23
hard I/II17 of 23
I/II1 of 23
easy I/II0 of 23
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S