No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.


ClimberDateStyle
davkeo 23/Aug AltLd O/S

13hrs climbing. 16hrs hut to hut (peroux bivi). Started p1 at 5.45. Moved together for a lot and pitched a lot of it too. Sustained hvs which feels harder with full packs. Went onto slightly harder stuff too at times but the route finding was mostly ok. Misha did first aid section (which we found out later is climbed easier on the left) which was well ard. I did 2nd aid bit which was actually fine to climb. 2 pitches after that were mixed icy stuff in the shade and quite miserable. Chossy couloir was an absolute death trap. 2 significant rockfalls just about missed us (except for an impact on my left shoulder) & the whole section had that seat of ur pants feel. Looking up at the airborne stones on the 2nd rock fall I didnt fancy my chances much. Climbing on the first half was nice but not a route I'd rush back to. Longest hvs in the world possibly.

with Misha
Misha 23/Aug AltLd O/S

Long! Left the Perroux bivvy at 4.20am, started climbing 5.45am, finished the rock climbing 6.45pm, back to Perroux just after 9pm (was super slow on the descent (1.5hrs) due to dehydration and altitude - only the third day up high; climbing was ok but had to stop for breathers towards the top). So 13 hours for the route and 17 hour day overall. Descended to Cham the following mornin. Just as well we reccied the route the day before as initially went to the wrong bit of the Tacul East Face! Also useful to locate the first pitch. We started up a tricky crack running up from the very toe of the buttress and finishing at a single bolt belay. The climbing is fairly sustained at VS - HVS, with some 5b sections (at least the way we did it). Managed to free the aid pitch after stepping in a sling off the first peg to get past the initial blank section - hard to grade with a sack at altitude but felt like trad 6a moves, very safe though with a row of pegs. Only did it as thought it would be easier than carrying on aiding - it wasn't! Apparently that pitch can be bypassed on the left. Some good climbing but some of it was so-so. A couple of pitches on the right side of the Pillar were very snowy but just about doable in rock shoes. The gully left of the Red Tower was a total chossfest, plus we got two volleys of microwave sized and smaller blocks coming off the ridge above. Fortunately only got hit by a couple of small ones, helmet won't have helped against the bigger ones... Changed into big boots at the foot of the chossy gully and managed to rock hop the mixed section on the ridge above without crampons (if we'd known there was no real mixed climbing on the route, would have taken ski touring crampons and axe). Did the final rock ridge in two pitches, again in big boots which was ok. Happy to see the summit snow slope! A good Alpine experience but won't be in a rush to repeat it and if I ever do, I'd do it early season when the choss gully is mixed or take the Red Tower variation. Single 60m rope, set of nuts and two sets of cams up to BD red plus one BD yellow worked well. Moved together a fair bit but also pitched a lot. Best topos are the narrative one on Tim Oliver's website and the Italian hand drawn one on camptocamp - don't bother with Piola's!

feilx 14/Aug AltLd

Moved together on the entire route, still took us 11 hours, great climbing that just keeps going and going.

with Niko
Suzana 13/Aug AltLd
with Rhys Mcallister
piken 08/Aug AltLd G/U

Grueling. 6.30 on the rock as the sun came up over the Dent de Geant. Toped out 2 ish then back down to collect the tent and catch the cable car down the midi.

with Andy
stuart34 12/Aug/15 AltLd
with pollerd
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Paul Collins 03/Aug/15 AltLd

Long! 1200m from the bottom of the pillar to the top of the Tacul (800m for the rock pillar)

with Liam
liamo333 ?/Aug/15 -

Helluva route

alexm198 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Pretty massive day but topping out at sunset seems par for the course on this one. Just over 15 hours for the actual route. Every time you think you're nearly there, there's another section of climbing to do! Route finding is quite tricky near the top.

Hidden 12/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
HansStuttgart ?/Sep/13 -
guy757 29/Aug/13 -

Not completed too much snow on route

jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
roberto18 28/Aug/12 AltLd

Dropped my rock shoe on 5th pitch so climbed with one shoe and one boot. Weather turned in, spent night 50m below the summit, still can't feel my feet!!

Ollie B 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

My birthday :D

with T.Livinstone
Tom Livingstone 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

could be the best HVS in the world? maybe!

Hidden 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
John Carney 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Elsie L
Pete Graham ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Howard Lawledge
Hidden 01/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Niekolaas 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Jelle
hamish2016 ?/Jul/09 AltLd dnf

Too wet on 4th/5th pitch so abbed off

with Tom Ripley
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead
Grezza ?/Jul/07 AltLd

Best climbing in first half. 28 pitches. 12 hours. Great route

with Paul E
tom.e 22/Jul/06 -

10 hrs base to summit, got stormed on at the top

with Charlie Everett
reg_measures ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
sgl ?/Jun/05 -
with Jo B, Konnie
Dave Thompson ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Gav Pike
Hidden 08/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
tompercy 19/Jul/95 AltLd
with Amos Preminger
Hidden ?/Jul/92 AltLd
pingora ?/Aug/91 AltLd
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/90 -
with James Thomas
crossleysm ??/1990 AltLd
with Roger Lawson
mark-abz ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Andy W
GaryK ?/Aug/87 AltLd O/S

A very long route, and you have to carry alpine boots all the way to the summit to get off. Worth it though. Take lots of water, or a stove, it's a long day.

with Cant remember
Lone Rider ??/1986 AltLd
John Marsland 17/Aug/85 -

11 hours

with Dave Soles
Hidden ??/1984 -
alpinist63 ??/1981 -
Hidden 05/Aug/80 Lead
mikej ?/Aug/70 AltLd dnf
with Pete Boardman
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