Rockfax Description
II, 330m. A good crack climb which doesn't see as much attention as it should, possibly due to its proximity to more popular routes.
1) 6b. Go straight up a narrow crack and then up and right to reach the top of a pillar. It is possible to belay here but there are no bolts. Make a tough move off the pillar and then follow a slab up to a ledge.
2) 6b+. Step left and climb the exceptional corner/chimney via some exposed bridging moves which are well protected with small wires. Exit the chimney just underneath a huge roof and then traverse right to belay.
3) 6a. Continue rightwards and pass right of the block which forms the huge roof. Much of the pitch is physical laybacking.
4) 6b. A magnificent pitch which has just about everything. Follow a brilliant crack and then exit this via a tough slab move.
5) 5c. A slightly easier pitch up a right-leaning groove.
6) 6a. Much the same up a groove, just a bit harder!
7) 4b. Finish off the groove and then cross the huge ledge leftwards to reach the foot of another steep groove.
8) 6a+. Climb the groove, which is tough initially but eases off.
9) 4c. Follow easy ground to the ledge just below the summit. Either follow L'alchemie du temps qui passe or abseil off. © Rockfax

FA. C.Perret, M.Piola 21.9.1986 21/Sep/1986.

Ticklists

Chloe is a V6 climber

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