|500m, 14 pitches. Contrary to its name, the route is situated just right of the 'curved chimney' up a large spur. Initially it is a little scrappy and dirty, but the rock improves and the section under the roof is particularly enjoyable. |
Start at the base of the left-hand of two prominent chimneys, at the highest point of a short scree ramp.
1) IV, 25m. Climb the short corner, which forms the first part of the chimney, to a good stance above a chockstone.
2) IV, 30m. Exit right from the chimney, and follow a ramp to a short corner. Climb this, then ignore the crack above and move right to a comfortable stance.
3) II, 35m. Follow easy ground right.
4) II, 25m. Continue in the same line on vegetated rock.
5) I, 45m. Follow a grassy ramp on the arete to a good stance.
6) IV-, 30m. Move left to enter a short chimney, and follow this slightly right to a stance below a crack.
7) IV-, 40m. Climb the crack direct then move left.
8) III+, 30m. Follow the continuation crack back right to the arete, below a short corner and a roof.
9) IV, 25m. Ignore the corner and instead climb to its left (be careful to avoid rope drag). Circumvent a crack to the side of the roof on its left then move back right to a good stance.
10) IV, 15m. Climb a short crack on good holds.
11) IV-, 40m. Continue direct to reach a ledge. Cross this and climb the face above to a stance below a corner.
12) IV, 20m. Climb a couple of metres up the corner then exit left then move back into the large chimney. Climb this to a stance on pegs.
13) IV+, 30m. Continue up the chimney, with sustained climbing, then exit right up a prominent crack to a large cave.
14) III+, 50m. Exit the cave left, pass through a tunnel, then continue up easier but loose ground to the saddle. © ROCKFAX
A scrappy route, taking the buttress to the left of Old South
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